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Argan oil and other argan products: Use in dermocosmetology

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Abstract

Argan oil is of food or cosmetic (INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil) grade. During the past 15 years cosmetic argan oil, as beauty oil or cosmetic ingredient, has become one of the major actors in the dermocosmetic field. Beauty argan oil is produced by cold-pressing argan-fruit kernels. As a cosmetic ingredient, argan oil is produced by solvent-assisted extraction of the finely crushed kernels. Enriched-argan oil which is produced by distillation of cosmetic argan oil can be supplemented with antioxidants. Hence, it presents an even better cosmetic potential. Argan fruit pulp and argan leaves also contain proteins, peptides, saponins and other chemicals presenting highly interesting dermocosmetics. Therefore, the argan tree (A. spinosa) is sometimes nicknamed A. cosmetosa. We comprehensively review the current knowledge (literature and patent) related to argan oil and argan tree products in the dermocosmetic domain.

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... Formülasyonlarda argan yağının saf veya zenginleştirilmiş halde kullanımının yanı sıra yağ eldesi sırasında meydana gelen yan ürünler de kozmetik sektöründe hammadde olarak kullanılmaktadır. 4 Bu çalışmada, bilimsel veritabanlarında literatür araştırması yapılarak, argan yağının kimyasal içerik profili, biyolojik aktivite çalışmalarının yanı sıra yapılan dermatolojik aktivite çalışmaları ve rapor edilen yan/advers etki vakaları derlenmiş ve argan yağının kozmetik kullanımı değerlendirilmiştir. ...
... Zenginleştirilmiş yağ 150-200 °C ve 1,5-1,8 Pa basınç altında buhar distilasyonu ile elde edilir; yağ asitleri ile zenginleştirilmiştir. Bu yağ kozmetik formülasyonlarda kullanılır ve tek başına kullanımı iritasyonlara sebep olabilir. 4,14 ...
... 18 Kozmetik ve zenginleştirilmiş argan yağları son zamanlarda ciltteki yaşlanmaya bağlı kırışıklıkları önlemek amacıyla serum ve kremlerin formülasyonlarında da kullanılmaktadır. 4 UV-B ışınlarının kollajen hücrelerini yıkıma uğratarak ciltte inflamasyon yanıtı oluşturduğu ve kırışıklık ve foto yaşlanmaya sebep olduğu bilinmektedir. Polifenollerin de UV-B ışınlarının bu etkilerine karşı koruyucu etkisi raporlanmıştır. ...
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Argania spinosa is a member of the Sapotaceae family and is an endemic tree that grows in approximately 800,000 hectares in Southwest Morocco. It is registered that the argan oil obtained from the seeds of the plant is used by the people of the region in dermatological disorders and to lighten skin color. Because of its high content of oleic acid, linoleic acid, and polyphenols has become noticeable among other fixed oil sources. Recently, it has become exceptionally preferred in the cosmetic industry and has found its place in various formulations in pure or enriched forms. Apart from dermo-cosmetic use, there are many studies on the plant's chemical contents and biological activities, primarily argan oil. In this study, biological activity and dermatological effect studies of argan oil obtained from SciFinder, Google Scholar, ScienceDirect databases were listed and evaluated in terms of cosmetic use. As a result of the evaluations, it was determined that the ethnobotanical uses of argan oil, the preparations and formulations prepared for dermocosmetic use and the compiled biological activity studies showed parallelism. In the study, case reports that argan oils used for cosmetic purposes can cause allergic reactions are also included and the need for more side/toxic effect profile studies on argan oil has been revealed.
... Several scientific studies devoted to the development of argan oil for over 30 years have shown various promising nutritional characteristics of this product in human health (21). ...
... There are two kinds of argan oils in the market, namely, food argan oil and beauty (cosmetic) use (name INCI: Argania spinosa kernel oil) (21). This is a cold pressed oil, however, it is obtained from unroasted argan kernels (15,22). ...
... This is a cold pressed oil, however, it is obtained from unroasted argan kernels (15,22). Cosmetic argan oil is intended to be applied directly to the skin or hair, or to be an ingredient in other cosmetic preparations (21,23,24). Traditionally, cosmetic argan oil has been claimed to cure all kinds of skin anomalies with particular effectiveness for juvenile acne and chickenpox. ...
Article
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Argan oil is considered a relatively international product exported from Morocco, although different companies in Europe and North America distribute argan oil around the globe. Argan oil is non-refined vegetable oil, of the more well-known “virgin oil” type, is produced from the argan tree [Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels]. The argan tree is deemed to be an important forest species from both social and economic standpoints. Argan oil has rapidly emerged as an important product able to bring more income to the local population. In addition, it also has important environmental implications, owing to its ability to stand against desert progression. Currently, argan oil is mainly produced by women's cooperatives in Morocco using a semi-industrial mechanical extraction process. This allows the production of high-quality argan oil. Depending on the method used to prepare argan kernels, two types of argan oil can be obtained: food or cosmetic grade. Cosmetic argan oil is prepared from unroasted kernels, whereas food argan oil is achieved by cold pressing kernels roasted for a few minutes. Previously, the same food argan oil was prepared exclusively by women according to a laborious ancestral process. Extraction technology has been evolved to obtain high-quality argan oil at a large scale. The extraction process and several accompanying parameters can influence the quality, stability, and purity of argan oil. In view of this, the present review discusses different aspects related to argan oil chemical composition along with its nutritional and cosmetic values. Similarly, it details different processes used to prepare argan oil, as well as its quality control, oxidative stability, and authenticity assessment.
... Cosmetic Argan oil is known for its high content of free-radical scavenging saponins, which may be responsible for its antioxidant properties [2,3], as well as phenolic compounds and tocopherols. The Antioxidant properties of these compounds seem to protect against aging phenomena for skin [1,4]. This oil cures acne and protects, restores, revitalizes and hydrates the skin. ...
... This oil cures acne and protects, restores, revitalizes and hydrates the skin. It reduces the degree of malondialdehyde (MDA) in human fibroblasts induced by UVA rays and thus exhibit a high capacity for reducing harmful effects of oxidative stress on the skin [4]. Due to the therapeutic advantages and complex composition of cosmetic Argan oil, various formulation approaches, including carrier technology such as microemulsions are used. ...
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Objective: The purpose of this study was to develop, optimize and characterize a stable microemulsion of Moroccan cosmetic Argan oil. Methods: In this work, microemulsion system was studied by the construction of phase diagrams using titration method. At first, various surfactants (Brij56®, Tween 80®, Solutol®, Tween 20® and Labrasol®) and various weight ratio surfactant/cosurfactant (1:0, 3:1, 2:1 and 1:1) were tested to select the optimal surfactant and concentration to use. The microemulsions with tween80 were evaluated with different techniques using various parameters such as droplet size, transmittance, viscosity and pH. Stability studies of these microemulsions were conducted for 8 w at 5 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C, and underwent centrifugation at 3000 rpm and ultracentrifugation at 10,000 rpm. Results: The largest microemulsion formation area was achieved for the microemulsions containing Tween 80/PEG 400 at a ratio of 3:1. The obtained microemulsions M1 to M12 were homogeneous. More the percentage of PEG 400 increases, more the pH of the preparations and their viscosity decreases, while preparations with a high oil content have low transmittance. Thermodynamic and physical stability shows that only samples with a minimum of 31.5% of Tween 80 and a maximum of 9% of oil showed good stability. Among the stable preparations, M11 (9% O, 10% W and 40.5/40.5% S/Cos) was the formula which exhibited properties such as transparency, soft acidic pH and low viscosity, making it suitable for cutaneous use. Conclusion: The use of pseudo-ternary phase diagrams allows for the development of an optimal microemulsion with perfect stability.
... Argania spinosa L. (Fig. 1), belonging to the family Sapotaceae in the order Ericales, is an endemic species distributed in more than 800,000 Hectares in the southwestern area of Morocco. Argan oil production has tremendously eased the poverty of around 2.5 million members of the rural population living nearby (Lybbert et al. 2002(Lybbert et al. , 2011Guillaume and Charrouf 2011;Mateille et al. 2016). With the ever-growing population and the booming market, the demand for the species has amplified greatly in the latest years owing to the oil extracted from its almonds, which is marketed worldwide and highly appreciated due to its high medicinal, cosmetic, and pharmacological value (Gonzálvez et al. 2010; Guillaume and Charrouf 2011;Cabrera-Vique et al. 2012). ...
... Argan oil production has tremendously eased the poverty of around 2.5 million members of the rural population living nearby (Lybbert et al. 2002(Lybbert et al. , 2011Guillaume and Charrouf 2011;Mateille et al. 2016). With the ever-growing population and the booming market, the demand for the species has amplified greatly in the latest years owing to the oil extracted from its almonds, which is marketed worldwide and highly appreciated due to its high medicinal, cosmetic, and pharmacological value (Gonzálvez et al. 2010; Guillaume and Charrouf 2011;Cabrera-Vique et al. 2012). In addition to its ecological and socio-economic value, many investigations have revealed that the species has a high level of stress tolerance (Chakhchar et al. 2015;Ain-Lhout et al. 2016), which makes it the best candidate for an environmentally friendly agriculture (Polain and Waroux 2013; Mateille et al. 2016). ...
Article
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Argan (Argania spinosa L.) is a highly valued tree for its multiple uses as food and feed and for being linked to a broad range of benefits of pharmaceutical and cosmetic relevance. This multipurpose resource is becoming increasingly overused, which may disrupt the whole ecosystem’s sustainability. Due to the high socio-economic status of this tree, research interventions are needed to reverse the forest regressive trend, restore the disturbed ecosystem, and conserve genetic diversity. However, research on argan is restricted by the lack of accessible information on the genetic and genomic bases of the species, specifically a functional annotated genome. Herein, we report the reference transcriptome aided annotation of the argan tree genome using de novo gene prediction programs aided by homology information from different plants. The results of the genome annotation using AUGUSTUS were subsequently improved by performing RNA sequencing. A total of 62,590 gene loci could be identified with 82,286 isoforms and a BUSCO completeness of 91.7%. To gain insight into the agronomically important compounds in argan oil, a comparative genome analysis and ortholog identification was performed, followed by phylogenetic tree construction of the main biosynthesis genes. Among those are fatty acids and tocopherols, the latter being the main factor behind the increasing demands for argan oil. Our analysis is the initial step to provide breeders, geneticists, and the industries with adequate genomic information, facilitate improvement of economically important traits and to selectively adapt the tree to the increasing impact of climate change.
... Sci. 2022, 12, 12641 6 of 22 on the extraction yield: the use of hydraulic presses decreased the amount of time needed to extract 1 L of AO by five times and increased the extraction yield from 29 to 50% [31]; while organic solvent extraction gives a yield ranging from 50 to 57% [32]. ...
... On the other hand, the traditional AO extraction is based on the strength of women's arms. In their published works, Charrouf et al. mentioned the impact of the extraction process on the extraction yield: the use of hydraulic presses decreased the amount of time needed to extract 1 L of AO by five times and increased the extraction yield from 29 to 50% [31]; while organic solvent extraction gives a yield ranging from 50 to 57% [32]. ...
Article
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The aim of the present research is the evaluation of the extraction process effect on the chemical composition, the antioxidant activities, and the mild steel corrosion inhibition ability of Argania spinosa’s extracts (alimentary oil (AO) and hexanic extract of roasted almonds (HERA)). The chemical composition revealed that both extracts have the same major compounds: Palmitic, linoleic, and stearic acids, with their order slightly different. Electrochemical impedance spectroscopy (EIS), weight loss measurements, and polarization curves were used to estimate AO and HERA’s mild steel corrosion’s inhibition capacity. Based on these three methods, AO registered, respectively, 81%, 87%, and 87% inhibition efficiency while HERA registered 78%, 84%, and 82% inhibition efficiency. The antioxidant activity of AO and HERA was examined in parallel with standard antioxidants (gallic acid and quercetin) using two assays: DPPH* scavenging assay and ferric reducing antioxidant power assay (FRAP). AO had less EC50 in both techniques (DPPH*: 3559.08 � 161.75 �g/mL; FRAP 1288.58 � 169.21 �g/mL) than HERA (DPPH*: 3621.43 � 316.05 �g/mL; FRAP 1655.86 � 240.18 �g/mL). Quantum chemical and molecular dynamic studies were employed to suggest the adsorption mechanism. Keywords: Argania spinosa; chemical composition; corrosion; mild steel; antioxidant activity; molecular dynamic simulation
... Sci. 2022, 12, 12641 6 of 22 on the extraction yield: the use of hydraulic presses decreased the amount of time needed to extract 1 L of AO by five times and increased the extraction yield from 29 to 50% [31]; while organic solvent extraction gives a yield ranging from 50 to 57% [32]. ...
... On the other hand, the traditional AO extraction is based on the strength of women's arms. In their published works, Charrouf et al. mentioned the impact of the extraction process on the extraction yield: the use of hydraulic presses decreased the amount of time needed to extract 1 L of AO by five times and increased the extraction yield from 29 to 50% [31]; while organic solvent extraction gives a yield ranging from 50 to 57% [32]. ...
Article
Full-text available
The aim of the present research is the evaluation of the extraction process effect on the chemical composition, the antioxidant activities, and the mild steel corrosion inhibition ability of Argania spinosa’s extracts (alimentary oil (AO) and hexanic extract of roasted almonds (HERA)). The chemical composition revealed that both extracts have the same major compounds: Palmitic, linoleic, and stearic acids, with their order slightly different. Electrochemical impedance spectroscopy (EIS), weight loss measurements, and polarization curves were used to estimate AO and HERA’s mild steel corrosion’s inhibition capacity. Based on these three methods, AO registered, respectively, 81%, 87%, and 87% inhibition efficiency while HERA registered 78%, 84%, and 82% inhibition efficiency. The antioxidant activity of AO and HERA was examined in parallel with standard antioxidants (gallic acid and quercetin) using two assays: DPPH* scavenging assay and ferric reducing antioxidant power assay (FRAP). AO had less EC50 in both techniques (DPPH*: 3559.08 ± 161.75 μg/mL; FRAP 1288.58 ± 169.21 μg/mL) than HERA (DPPH*: 3621.43 ± 316.05 μg/mL; FRAP 1655.86 ± 240.18 μg/mL). Quantum chemical and molecular dynamic studies were employed to suggest the adsorption mechanism.
... Edible argan oil, registered as a product with the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) since 2011, is obtained from lightly roasted kernels conferring a hazelnut flavor to the oil, while argan oil used for cosmetics is obtained from raw kernels. In recent decades, numerous studies have shown the nutritional and dermo-cosmetic benefits of this oil [2,6,7], which have been known for centuries and transmitted among generations of Berbere women. Due to its properties and successes as an ingredient in cosmetic products, currently, argan oil is considered one of the most prized oils in the world, with a growing worldwide demand [6]. ...
... In recent decades, numerous studies have shown the nutritional and dermo-cosmetic benefits of this oil [2,6,7], which have been known for centuries and transmitted among generations of Berbere women. Due to its properties and successes as an ingredient in cosmetic products, currently, argan oil is considered one of the most prized oils in the world, with a growing worldwide demand [6]. As a premium product, argan oil is highly prone to adulteration by partial or even total substitution with other vegetable oils. ...
Article
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Argan oil is a traditional product obtained from the fruits of the argan tree (Argania spinosa L.), which is endemic only to Morocco. It is commercialized worldwide as cosmetic and food-grade argan oil, attaining very high prices in the international market. Therefore, argan oil is very prone to adulteration with cheaper vegetable oils. The present work aims at developing novel real-time PCR approaches to detect olive and soybean oils as potential adulterants, as well as ascertain the presence of argan oil. The ITS region, matK and lectin genes were the targeted markers, allowing to detect argan, olive and soybean DNA down to 0.01 pg, 0.1 pg and 3.2 pg, respectively, with real-time PCR. Moreover, to propose practical quantitative methods, two calibrant models were developed using the normalized ΔCq method to estimate potential adulterations of argan oil with olive or soybean oils. The results allowed for the detection and quantification of olive and soybean oils within 50–1% and 25–1%, respectively, both in argan oil. Both approaches provided acceptable performance parameters and accurate determinations, as proven by their applicability to blind mixtures. Herein, new qualitative and quantitative PCR assays are proposed for the first time as reliable and high-throughput tools to authenticate and valorize argan oil.
... La majorité des travaux effectués sur l'arganier du Maroc se sont concentrés sur son huile végétale [22], sur ses symbioses racinaires [23] et sur sa régénération [24]. En Algérie, cette espèce reste méconnue. ...
Article
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Abstract- In desert regions, development of root system and its orientation are closely linked to the physico-chemical composition, but also to the geomorphology of its substratum. The absorption of water represents a vital challenge for the botanical species. The argan tree is a strong example of adaptation in the conditions of aridity. Our study concerns the region of Tindouf (Algeria), where the argan tree remains in its most Southern and the most oriental area. It is with the aim of determining the root architecture of this species that the roots of twelve individuals, chosen at random to Touiref Bou Aam, were exposures. Biometric measures were made on the observed roots and samples of ground were taken for physico-chemical evaluations. The geomorphology was a support to understand the ecological situation and comportement of this species. All the sampled trees are in border of the oued and not in the center. The obtained results classified the individuals studied in two different groups separated according to the present correlations. A first group in the numerous deep, little branched out roots, with a ground with ascendancy of sands and unrefined silt was observed on the realized ACP. This group is more centered on the anchoring of the tree. On the contrary, the second group contains subjects with thick, very branched out superficial roots and some deep roots, with an ascendancy of sands and fine silt and a capacity of important retention. A first performance of the space root distribution is realized. It allows to understand the root behavior of the argan tree in front of the extreme aridity of its environment. KEYWORDS: Root architecture, aridity, Argania spinosa L., Tindouf (algeria), ground.
... Argan oil is exclusively grown and produced commonly in Southwestern Morocco [53]. It is a popular ingredient in hair care products used to moisturize and nourish the hair, also used to eliminate skin pimple and reduce dryness and prevent the appearance of skin wrinkles [54,55]. Because of its richness in vitamin E, unsaturated fatty acids, phytosterols, tocopherols, and volatile compounds, the cosmetic cold pressed argan oil is applied straightly on the body or added as a main constituent in cosmetic formulations [56]. ...
Article
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Since olden days, medicinal and aromatic plants have been consumed due to their well-known therapeutic, ornamental, culinary, and cosmetic properties. Plant-based cosmetics comprise a growing market offering brands of sustainable products with the ultimate goal of responding to the woman needs to boost their natural beauty, such as soothing, toning, moisturizing and protecting skin and hair. The increasing focus on body and beauty care, combined with a better understanding of the diverse biological effects of plants and their derivatives, has revitalized their significance in aesthetic, cosmetic, and dermatological contexts. Concurrently, the increasing prevalence of allergies and hypersensitivity reactions to synthetic additives commonly found in cosmetics and other skin products has spurred interest in seeking healthier and more efficacious natural alternatives. An intense investigation has been stated around the formulation of medicinal plants- and other plant-based cosmetic products for dermatological and aesthetic purposes. Similarly, a raising awareness by cosmetics’ manufacturers and related industries have been progressively stated, culminating with the emergence of a line of plant-based cosmetics increasingly safe and with reliable quality features for multiple purposes. Although a high demand for natural-based products for cosmetic purposes has been stated, further studies are required to deepening knowledge on their beneficial properties, safety and quality features and to identify the main limitations and likelihood of side effects occurrence. In this review, an outlook of the current scenario regarding the use of medicinal and aromatic plants as cosmetic ingredients in the formulation of skin care and other dermatological products traditionally used by the Mediterranean woman for prevention and even cure of skin and hair diseases or for beautification is provided. Graphical abstract
... Local populations have used different parts of the Argan tree for culinary, cosmetic, and medicinal purposes [2]. Indeed, the fruit seeds were predominantly used to extract the Argan oil, which is widely known for its nutritional and cosmetic properties [3]. However, the other parts of the tree, such as leaves, fruit pulp, and kernel, have long been used as a traditional medicine to treat several diseases, such as diabetes mellitus, hyperlipidemia, rheumatism, dry skin, and gastritis [4]. ...
Article
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Background/Objectives: Argania spinosa L. Skeels is a Moroccan endemic plant widely used by the local population as folk medicine. This study aimed to investigate the effects of Argan fruit pulp on lipid metabolism disorders and liver steatosis in hypercaloric diet-fed mice. Methods: Animals were treated with the Argan fruit pulp extract and its fractions for 12 weeks at 100 and 200 mg Kg⁻¹ BW daily. The analysis was conducted on lipid levels in plasma, liver, feces, and bile as well as on glycemia. The liver glutathione, malondialdehyde, and antioxidant enzyme activities were assessed. The hepatic steatosis was evaluated by measuring transaminases and alkaline phosphatase activities and examining histological sections. The polyphenol profiles were determined using HPLC-DAD. Possible underlying mechanisms in the hypolipidemic and hepatoprotective activities were predicted by molecular docking. Results: The crude extract and its aqueous fraction (rich in protocatechuic and gallic acids) significantly restored plasma lipids and glucose levels. Indeed, total cholesterol level (TCHO) was decreased in the liver but increased in bile and feces. The treatment also reduced body weight and liver and adipose tissue mass and prevented liver steatosis. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited no effect on lipid metabolism but significantly prevented liver oxidative stress. The crude extract and its fractions appear to be nontoxic (LD50 > 5000 mg Kg⁻¹) in mice. The phenolic acids demonstrated strong binding affinity to key targets involved in regulating lipid homeostasis, including ABCA-1, LXR, CYP7A1, HMH-CoA reductase, and PCSK-9. However, the identified flavonoids exhibited high affinities to targets involved in oxidative stress defense (SOD, CAT, and CYP2E1). Conclusions: The Argan fruit pulp, particularly its polyphenols, could be a promising natural approach for preventing cardio-metabolic diseases by improving lipid metabolism and reducing liver oxidative stress.
... Polyphenols are known to be effective in preventing photoaging and UV-B-induced wrinkle formation that is caused by inflammatory responses and collagen destruction. 62 ...
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Plant-based oils, such as coconut, olive, argan, and jojoba, are abundant in natural emollients and vital fatty acids that hydrate and moisturize the skin. They shield the surface, stop moisture loss, and maintain suppleness of, the skin. They are rich in vitamins, nutrients, and antioxidants that nourish the skin. Virgin coconut oil (VCO) is used as a functional food due to its tremendous health benefits, and olive oil is well-known for its cosmetic and culinary applications. Argan oil contains many antioxidants, vital fatty acids, and vitamin E, while jojoba oil is an excellent moisturizer and conditioner. Plant-based oils can be extracted using various techniques including conventional and chemical extraction methods, and each will affect the yield and quality. Traditional methods like mechanical pressing are less efficient, whereas extraction methods such as pressurized liquid and supercritical fluid extraction may give higher yields and better quality. The chemical composition of olive oil primarily consists of saturated fatty acids (SFAs), polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), and monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFAs). Argan oil is rich in tocopherols, containing between 60 and 90 mg per 100 g, with only 19 g/100 g of argan oil’s fatty acids saturated. Jojoba oil is liquid wax comprising over 98% triglyceride esters, pure waxes, vitamins, and sterols. This review focuses on the chemical and biological properties, production processes, and applications of natural cosmetic oils (virgin coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil, and jojoba oil), emphasizing their usage in skin care and cosmeceutical products.
... Argania spinosa is a source of various valuable extracts, each with distinct properties and applications. The most renowned extract is argan oil which is rich in several bioactive compounds that act as prebiotics [54,55]. Prebiotics are defined as non-digestible food components that stimulate the growth and/or activity of beneficial bacteria within the gut microbiota [56]. ...
Article
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Argan oil, rich in unsaturated fatty acids and polyphenols, exerts beneficial effects on both the intestinal and skin microbiotas. In the gut, it promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria, such as lactobacilli, while reducing pathogenic bacteria, due to its anti-inflammatory properties that help maintain microbial balance. Additionally, it improves the integrity of the intestinal mucosa, reducing the risk of dysbiosis. On the skin, argan oil hydrates and balances the lipid environment, creating a favorable setting for beneficial microorganisms, while also possessing antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties that soothe conditions like eczema and acne. Thus, argan oil is valuable for overall health, supporting digestion and skin health. The objective of this review is to provide a summary of the benefits of argan oil for alternative and complementary medicine. An exhaustive search of the literature was carried out using targeted keywords. A set of 83 articles were selected and analyzed. As the mechanisms of action of argan oil are not completely understood, this work highlighted the benefits of this oil by analyzing its nutritional properties and its beneficial effects on the intestinal and skin microbiotas. Indeed, argan oil is valuable for overall health.
... Refining is a succession of treatments (physical and chemical) whose order and number, when correctly adapted, deliver an oil of defined degree of refining. An indiscriminate refining would possibly cause the total disappearance of substances essential for cosmetic activity (tocopherols, phospholipids, and phytosterols) 13,14 , and the appearance of unwanted substances (3-chloropropane-1,2-diol (MCDP) esters, trans-fatty acids) 15,16 . As a result, the refining process must ensure minimal loss of the bioactive components 17,18 and the cosmetics industry utilized selective refining conditions optimized for argan oil in terms of temperature 19 , pressure and contact time with filters that allow the discoloration/deodorization of argan oil while minimizing the loss of those essential substances. ...
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Subquality argan kernels are 30% cheaper than the regular kernels mandatory used to prepare edible argan oil. The use of these argan kernels for the preparation of argan oil intended to be a cosmetic ingredient, after bleaching and deodorization, is therefore particularly economically appealing. The oxidative stability of Argan oil prepared from subquality kernels is unknown. It was evaluated over a period of storage of 12 weeks at 60 °C, then compared with that of argan oil stored under the same conditions and originating from the same initial batch, but which had subsequently been simply bleached and deodorized (physical refining). Physical refining led to an increase in initial oil quality due the loss of free fatty acids (up to 30% for refined argan oil), primary and secondary oxidation products but also to a dramatic decrease of the oxidative stability of argan oil caused by the loss of tocopherols, witnessed by the up to 94% loss after 12 weeks under accelerated storage conditions. As a conclusion, the oxidative stability of argan oil prepared from subquality argan kernels remains difficult to be adequately and efficiently evaluated since the initial quality of the argan kernels is the subject of great variations.
... Od setek lat oleje roślinne są dość powszechnie stosowane w kosmetyce. Dobrym przykładem takiego oleju jest olej arganowy otrzymywany z nasion drzewa arganii żelaznej (Argania spinoza) [16]. Drzewo arganowe należy do endemitów i rośnie wyłącznie w południowo-zachodniej części Maroka, dlatego jest też tak cennym surowcem do pozyskiwania oleju, który narażony jest na fałszowanie składu w celach zarob-kowych. ...
Article
Background. Vegetable oils play an important role in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic indus tries. They are not only a source of nutrients, but also a carrier of bioactive substances as an ingredient of creams or emulsions. Some oils, like extra virgin olive oil or argan oil, due to high consumer demand and high prices, may be subject to adulteration by using cheaper and easily accessible oils. Hence, the need to develop new research methods enabling the quick identification of such adulterations, but also enabling the assessment of oil quality, e.g. in variable storage conditions. Typically, gas chromatography (GC) is used to assess the profile of fatty acids. Oil parameters such as acid number, peroxide value and iodine number are also assessed to determine oil quality. Nevertheless, instead of performing all the above mentioned tests, these parameters can also be determined directly from 1H NMR spectra. Hence, there is great potential for using this method in quick screening of oil quality. The 1H NMR technique has been growing in importance in recent years in researching the quality and composition of food, including vege table oils. Multidimensional NMR techniques and analysis of other nuclei (13C NMR) are also used in the study of oils. The aim of this work is to present the applications of the most commonly used 1H NMR technique. Results and Conclusions. The article contains examples of the application of this method in testing the composition, quality and authenticity of olive oil, hemp oil and argan oil as oils used (both in the food, medical or cosmetic context) and becoming more and more popular among consumers.
... These species are known for their resistance to drought and heat because of their abundance in arid and semi-arid areas of southwest Morocco. 1 It is a valuable resource for a country's economy and environment. ...
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Fatty acid desaturase (FAD) is the key enzyme that leads to the formation of unsaturated fatty acids by introducing double bonds into hydrocarbon chains, and it plays a critical role in plant lipid metabolism. However, no data are available on enzyme-associated genes in argan trees. In addition, a candidate gene approach was adopted to identify and characterize the gene sequences of interest that are potentially involved in oil quality and abiotic stress. Based on phylogenetic analyses, 18 putative FAD genes of Argania spinosa L. (AsFAD) were identified and assigned to three subfamilies: stearoyl-ACP desaturase (SAD), Δ-12 desaturase (FAD2/FAD6), and Δ-15 desaturase (FAD3/FAD7). Furthermore, gene structure and motif analyses revealed a conserved exon-intron organization among FAD members belonging to the various oil crops studied, and they exhibited conserved motifs within each subfamily. In addition, the gene structure shows a wide variation in intron numbers, ranging from 0 to 8, with two highly conserved intron phases (0 and 1). The AsFAD and AsSAD subfamilies consist of three (H(X)2-4H, H(X)2-3HH, and H/Q (X)2-3HH) and two (EEN(K)RHG and DEKRHE) conserved histidine boxes, respectively. A set of primer pairs were designed for each FAD gene, and tested on DNA extracted from argan leaves, in which all amplicons of the expected size were produced. These findings of candidate genes in A spinosa L. will provide valuable knowledge that further enhances our understanding of the potential roles of FAD genes in the quality of oil and abiotic stress in the argan tree.
... Cosmetic and transdermal local applications [146][147][148] ...
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This review investigates the convergence of nanotechnology and essential oils in advanced dermocosmetic delivery. It outlines the pivotal role of inorganic and polymeric nanoparticles, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and gold nanocarriers, in cosmeceutical applications, facilitating slow release, deeper skin penetration, and increased retention of active compounds. Essential oils, renowned for therapeutic benefits, face translation challenges due to volatility and low water solubility. This review explores the potential use of plant nanovesicles as carriers, emphasizing safety, stability, and scalability, offering a sustainable and cost-effective industrial application. Nanomaterial integration in consumer products, particularly cosmetics, is prevalent, with nanocarriers enhancing the permeation of bioactive compounds into deeper skin layers. The review emphasizes recent nanotechnological advancements, covering nanoparticle penetration, experimental models, and therapeutic applications in dermatology, ranging from non-invasive vaccination to transdermal drug delivery. Additionally, the review delves into nanomaterials’ role in addressing skin aging, focusing on tissue regeneration. Nanomaterials loaded with cosmeceuticals, such as phytochemicals and vitamins, are explored as promising solutions to mitigate signs of aging, including wrinkles and dry skin, providing innovative approaches to skin rejuvenation. Overall, the review offers a comprehensive synthesis of essential oil–nanoparticle synergy, shedding light on the current landscape and future potential of advanced dermocosmetic delivery systems.
... Argan oil has been utilized for centuries in traditional medicine and cosmetics for its potential health benefits [3]. Additionally, the glucose-rich pulp obtained from Argan nuts is employed as cattle feed, whether fresh or dry, in the Argan grove [4]. ...
... The oil extracted from the kernel of the fruits can be used in many foods and beauty applications. Two types of extra virgin argan oil (EVAO), namely, non-roasted and roasted kernel oils, can be used in cosmetic applications and culinary preparations, respectively [2]. ...
Article
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This study examines the feasibility of using front-face fluorescence (FFFS), near-infrared (NIR), and mid-infrared (MIR) spectroscopies for the authentication of 100 extra virgin argan oil (EVAO) samples originated from 5 regions in Morocco (Chtouka, Essaouira, Sidi Ifni, Taroudant, and Tiznit) characterised by their different altitudinal levels, rainfall, and temperatures. Another objective of this study is to detect the adulteration of pure EVAO provided from the five regions with cheaper vegetable oils (peanut, walnuts, hazelnut, sunflower, grape, rapeseed, sesame, olive, and a mixture of the previous vegetable oils) at different levels (1, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50%) and predict the percentage of fraud. By applying principal component analysis and factorial discriminant analysis, to the emission spectra acquired after excitation wavelengths set at 430, 290, and 270 nm, a perfect discrimination between EVAO samples according to their geographical origin was observed achieving 100% of correct classification; while 92 and 99% of correct classification were obtained using MIR and NIR spectra data, respectively. As for the prediction of the purity level of EVAO, partial least square regression applied on FFFS, MIR, and NIR spectra data allowed to obtain an excellent prediction of adulteration level, since R 2 of 0.99, 0.99 and 0.98 were calculated, respectively.
... The oil extracted from the kernel of the fruits can be used in many foods and beauty applications. Two types of extra virgin argan oil (EVAO), namely, non-roasted and roasted kernel oils, can be used in cosmetic applications and culinary preparations, respectively [2]. ...
Article
This study examines the feasibility of using front face fluorescence (FFFS), near infrared (NIR) and mid infrared (MIR) spectroscopies for the authentication of 100 extra virgin argan oil (EVAO) samples originated from 5 regions in Morocco (Chtouka, Essaouira, Sidi Ifni, Taroudant, and Tiznit) characterised by their different altitudinal levels, rainfall and temperatures. Another objective of this study is to detect the adulteration of pure EVAO provided from the five regions with cheaper vegetable oils (peanut, walnuts, hazelnut, sunflower, grape, rapeseed, sesame, olive and a mixture of the previous vegetable oils) at different levels (1, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 %) and predict the percentage of fraud. By applying principal component analysis and factorial discriminant analysis, to the emission spectra acquired after excitation wavelengths set at 430, 290, and 270 nm, a perfect discrimination between EVAO samples according to their geographical origin was observed achieving 100% of correct classification; while 92.33% and 99.67% of correct classification were obtained using MIR and NIR spectra data, respectively. As for the prediction of the purity level of EVAO, partial least square regression applied on FFFS, MIR and NIR spectra data allowed to obtain an excellent prediction of adulteration level since R² of 0.99, 0.99 and 0.98 were calculated, respectively.
... Unroasted Argan oil (cosmetic grade) can be prepared in industry or the laboratory from kernels using a volatile lipophilic solvent, generally halogenated, such as chloroform or dichloromethane [16]. To avoid the oxidation of the fatty acids a lipophilic antioxidant, such as ascorbyl palmitate, is added [17]. ...
Article
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In addition to the nutritional and therapeutic benefits, Argan oil is praised for its unique bio-ecological and botanic interest. It has been used for centuries to treat cardiovascular issues, diabetes, and skin infections, as well as for its anti-inflammatory and antiproliferative properties. Argan oil is widely commercialized as a result of these characteristics. However, falsifiers deliberately blend Argan oil with cheaper vegetable oils to make economic profits. This reduces the quality and might result in health issues for consumers. Analytical techniques that are rapid, precise, and accurate are employed to monitor its quality, safety, and authenticity. This review provides a comprehensive overview of studies on the quality assessment of Moroccan Argan oil using both untargeted and targeted approaches. To extract relevant information on quality and adulteration, the analytical data are coupled with chemometric techniques.
... Instead, most of those studies focused on chemical extraction regarding the high-extraction efficiency. Both enzymatic extraction (Jung, 2009) and organic solvent extraction (Ortiz & Mukherjee, 1982) have been tested to extract Andean lupin bean (Lupinus mutabilis) 20 a 11 6 47 31 5 (Borek et al., 2009a;Carvajal-Larenas et al., 2016a;Fleetwood & Hudson, 1982a) Soybean (Glycine max) 20 9 4 26 51 9 (Fleetwood & Hudson, 1982a;Grela & Günter, 1995;Kostik, Memeti, & Bauer, 2013;Song et al., 2017a) Rapeseed (Brassica napus) 44 5 2 63 20 10 (Fleetwood & Hudson, 1982a;Orsavova, Misurcova, Ambrozova, Vicha, & Mlcek, 2015) Sunflower seed (Helianthus annuus) 44 5 4 28 61 2 (Akkaya, 2018;Kostik et al., 2013;Le Clef & Kemper, 2015;Orsavova et al., 2015) Argan seed (Argania spinosa) 45 16 4 43 36 1 (Guillaume & Charrouf, 2011;Khallouki et al., 2003) Peanut (Arachis hypogea) 52 8 3 65 19 5 (Kostik et al., 2013;Orsavova et al., 2015;Song et al., 2017a) Pistacia lupin oils. In recent decades, the demand for sustainable chemical processes calls for extractions with little or no use of fossil-based solvents. ...
Article
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Oil extraction from Andean lupin beans (Lupinus mutabilis SWEET) via supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) was studied on both lab scale and pilot scale. On the lab scale, the effect of pressure, solvent‐to‐feed ratio (S/F), sample particle size and temperature on oil yield were evaluated. The oil quality (fatty acid [FA] composition and tocopherol content) were investigated. Five‐hour scCO2 extraction yielded about 86% oil of Soxhlet extraction (using hexane as solvent). The fraction of unsaturated FA rose with extraction pressure at specific time. High tocopherol contents were detected in oils extracted at low pressure. An increase in temperature was unfavorable to oil and tocopherol yield, thereby confirming the validity for preserving oil extract quality under a mild scCO2 extraction condition. Oil quality and yield did not have identical optimum settings, opening up possibilities for producing different qualities of oils. Pilot‐scale extraction offered comparable oil yield to lab‐scale extraction at similar S/F ratio. Economic evaluation showed that it is promising to implement industrial scale scCO2 process for lupin oil extraction. It was predicted that, at a specific industrial scale of extraction (2 × 1000 L, 550 bar, 40°C and S/F of 24), the manufacturing cost of oils got close to actual commercial production cost. Practical Application This study applied an environment‐friendly high‐pressure extraction method, supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) extraction, to separate oils from Andean lupin beans (Lupinus mutabilis SWEET). ScCO2 extraction can serve as an alternative oil extraction method to conventional ones that use fossil‐derived organic solvents as the extractant. Up‐scaled scCO2 processing was estimated to be economically viable for commercial lupin oil production.
... stearic (3.3-5.4%) acid [181] Argan oil Argania spinosa oleic (43-49%), linoleic (29-36%), palmitic (11-15%), stearic (4-7%) acid [182][183][184] Omega-3 acids obtained from fish oil-eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA)-also play an important role in skin function. Although these acids are not present in the normal epidermis, their metabolites (epidermal 15-lipoxygenase transforms EPA into ...
... Argan oil (Argania spinosa kernel oil) is obtained by the cold-pressing technique from the kernel of the A. spinosa fruit. Argan oil contains mainly triacylglycerols, monoacylglycerols, diacylglycerols, and free oily acids, the minor components being polyphenols, sterols, tocopherols, triterpene alcohols, and squalene [43]. Argan oil has been shown to have an antiaging effect due to its properties that improve skin elasticity [44]. ...
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Three individual hydroalcoholic extracts derived from Hamamelis virginiana leaves, Krameria lappacea root, Salix alba bark, and the resulting herbal mixture (HM) were assessed for the phytochemical profile as well as for antibacterial and cytotoxic potential. The chemical composition of the individual extracts and of their mixture was analyzed by chromatographical (LC-MS) and spectrophotometrical methods. The antimicrobial properties were evaluated by using the agar-well diffusion and the broth microdilution assays, whereas the potential cytotoxicity was investigated on human keratinocyte cell line by MTT method and apoptosis test. The HM composition revealed important amounts of valuable polyphenolic compounds provided from the individual extracts, having synergistic biological effects. All tested extracts displayed in vitro antimicrobial properties, with a significantly higher efficacy noticed for the HM when tested against Staphylococcus aureus. Moreover, none of the tested extracts was responsible for in vitro cytotoxicity against the human keratinocytes in the selected concentration range. Furthermore, the HM was included in an oil-in-water cream for the nonpharmacological treatment of seborrheic dermatitis, developed and optimized by using a QbD approach. A D-optimal experimental plan with four factors that varied on two levels was used to investigate the effect of the quantitative variation of the formulation factors (emulsifier, co-emulsifier, thickening agent, oily phase ratio) on the characteristics of the cream in terms of firmness, consistency, adhesiveness, stringiness, spreadability, and viscosity. Based on the experimental results, an optimal formulation containing 2.5% emulsifier and 20% oily phase was prepared and analyzed. The obtained results showed appropriate quality characteristics of this novel cream, which may be used in the future to manage the associated symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis.
... The argan tree is appreciated for its edible oil, extracted from the kernels of the fruit. This oil is recognized worldwide for its nutritional values, and is sought by the cosmetic industry for its skin and hair hydration and anti-aging properties [2]. Argan oil was prepared by women on the cooperatives following a multistep process from the fruits of the argan tree. ...
Presentation
L’extraction enzymatique est une méthode largement utilisée dans l’industrie pour l’extraction de jus de fruits et d’huiles. Cette technique consiste en l’hydrolyse en milieu aqueux d’une matrice végétale. L’extraction enzymatique présente l’avantage de fournir des extraits propres à la consommation sans risques sur la santé des consommateurs. Le but de notre étude est l’optimisation du rendement d’extraction de l’huile d’argane en utilisant l’extraction enzymatique sans altérer ces paramètres qualitatifs. Pour cela l’huile d'argane a été extraite en utilisant différentes méthodes d'extraction à savoir la presse à froid, le Soxhlet, l’extraction au CO2 supercritique, et l’extraction assistée par enzyme en utilisant 3 préparations enzymatiques (cellulast, pectinex et viscozyme). L'évaluation des paramètres de qualité a été réalisée en déterminant les valeurs d'acide, de peroxyde et d'iode ainsi que les coefficients d'extinction K232 et K270. Les résultats obtenus ont montré un rendement d’extraction élevé obtenu par extraction enzymatique avec le viscozyme (66,37 ± 3,3%), suivi de l’huile extraite par Soxhlet (59,5 ± 3,1%). Nos résultats ont également démontré de bons paramètres qualitatifs dont une bonne stabilité oxydative (en accords avec la norme officielle de l'huile d'argane), avec des valeurs d'acide, de peroxyde et d'iode inférieures à 0,8 mg/g, 15 meq d'O2/kg d'huile et 110 g I2/ 100 g d'huile, respectivement. Ces résultats prouvent que la méthode d'extraction enzymatique peut éventuellement être appliquée pour l’amélioration du rendement d’extraction de l’huile d’argane sans altérer sa qualité. Cette étude est la première à reporter l’utilisation de la technologie d’hydrolyse enzymatique pour l'extraction de l'huile d'argane.
... Etymologically, the word Argan (the tree) comes from the Berber word arjâ n, which derives from rajnah which means in Berber dialect (to remain closed) in a limited space. In fact, the argan tree is endemic to Morocco, mainly located in the arid and semi-arid areas of southwest Morocco along the oceanic coast, from the mouth of the Wadi Tensift in the north to the mouth of the Wadi Drâ a in the south, where it covers an area of 828 000 ha [8]. The argan tree also grows in the plain of Souss, on the southern slopes of the Western High Atlas and on the northern and southern slopes of the Western Anti-Atlas up to altitudes of 1300-1500 m [9], and it fruits abundantly when it is not grazed by goats, or attacked by Ceratitis (fruit fly). ...
Article
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The argan tree "Argania spinosa" is a typically multi-use tree. It represents the agroforestry systems pivot which has so far succeeded in meeting the needs of the inhabitants of arid and semi-arid areas strongly marked by climatic hazards. Argan press-cake, residue from the argan oil extraction, is used in several fields, namely: cosmetics, agriculture, and pharmacology. In order to keep this argan paste with a pennyworth, solar drying is an economically appropriate solution, energy and environmentally friendly. In this work, an experimental study is performed to improve the sun-drying process of Argan press-cake using an indirect forced convection solar dryer. As a result, the evolution of the temperature and the drying kinetics inside the product have been assessed. The influence of air recycling drying on the drying time has been highlighted and the characteristic drying law was established too. Thus, the optimal storing conditions of argan press-cake were identified.
... The oil extracted from Argan kernels is a product of high added value used in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries. Cosmetic, beauty and edible oils are the three different types of oil produced from Argan kernels [1], the processes for producing these oils are shown in Fig. 1. From unroasted kernels, cosmetic and beauty oils are produced while edible oil is produced from roasted kernels. ...
Article
The effects of process parameters: pressure (200 – 400 bar), temperature (313 – 333 K), and flow rate (0.11 – 0.27 kg/h) on the efficiency of extraction process of Argan oil by supercritical CO2 were investigated using response surface methodology and mathematical modelling (Sovová’s mathematical model). The fastest extraction kinetics corresponding to the optimal operating conditions were obtained at 400 bar, 333 K at a CO2 flow rate of 0.11 kg corresponding to a residence time of about 8.8 min. A tocopherol rich oil can be obtained at the beginning of the extraction experiment.
... The argan tree is appreciated for its edible oil, extracted from the kernels of the fruit. This oil is recognized worldwide for its nutritional values, and is sought by the cosmetic industry for its skin and hair hydration and anti-aging properties [2]. Argan oil was prepared by women on the cooperatives following a multistep process from the fruits of the argan tree. ...
... It has been proven that tocopherols play an important role as natural antioxidants found in AO, therefore their 265 composition is of a great importance regarding AO quality [5,8,46,47]. AO is widely reported to contain ␣ 266 ␤ (minoritary), ␥, and δ−tocopherol [14]. ...
Article
Argan oil (AO) is an appreciated vegetable oil thanks to its high nutritional and cosmetic values. AO extraction technology has evolved to meet the market demand. However artisanal production is still widely practiced. The present study aimed at highlighting the influence of water quality on the physicochemical and sensory properties of artisanally extracted AO. To meet this objective, AO was prepared using various water types namely: well water (AOWW), tap water (AOTW), mineral water (AOMW), distilled water (AODW), and ultra-pure water (AOUW). The obtained AOs were evaluated in terms of routinely measured quality indices: iodine, peroxide, acid, and anisidine values, UV specific coefficients extinction, refraction index, and moisture content. Chemical composition (fatty acids, sterols content, and tocopherols content) was investigated together with oxidative stability (OS) and sensory properties. As revealed by the statistical test used, water quality impacted significantly mainly on AO chemical composition, OS, and sensory properties. Obtained results of almost studied quality attributes were consistent with the Official Moroccan Norm. The greatest values of saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids were recorded in AOMW and OAWW, respectively, while AOUW together with AOTW displayed the best record of polyunsaturated fatty acids. Moreover, the highest values of tocopherols were found in AOTW and AOUW. AODW and AOUW presented greatest values of sterols content, OS, and shelf life. Likewise, sensory analysis was satisfactory in almost obtained AOs. Principal component analysis confirmed these results and allowed allowed a good separation among AOs especially with sterols and tocopherols. Based on these outcomes, it could be concluded that water quality is an important parameter to consider by AO producers, ultra-pure and distilled water seemed to exert an ameliorative effect on quality, stability, and shelf life of AOs.
... In this sense, virgin argan oil may be a feasible substrate due to its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and cardiovascular-protective properties. Argan oil (AO) contains natural antioxidants, namely tocopherols and other sterols and phenolic compounds [29][30][31][32]. These compounds provide higher oxidative stability to the argan oil when compared to other oils [33]. ...
Article
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Argan oil is rich in long-chain unsaturated fatty acids (FA), mostly oleic and linoleic, and natural antioxidants. This study addresses the production of low-calorie structured lipids by acidolysis reaction, in a solvent-free system, between caprylic (C8:0; system I) or capric (C10:0; system II) acids and argan oil, used as triacylglycerol (TAG) source. Three commercial immobilized lipases were tested: Novozym® 435, Lipozyme® TL IM, and Lipozyme® RM IM. Higher incorporation degree (ID) was achieved when C10:0 was used as acyl donor, for all the lipases tested. Lipozyme® RM IM yielded the highest ID for both systems (28.9 ± 0.05 mol.% C10:0, and 11.4 ± 2.2 mol.% C8:0), being the only catalyst able to incorporate C8:0 under the reaction conditions for biocatalyst screening (molar ratio 2:1 FA/TAG and 55 °C). The optimal conditions for Lipozyme® RM IM in system II were found by response surface methodology (66 °C; molar ratio FA/TAG of 4:1), enabling to reach an ID of 40.9 mol.% of C10:0. Operational stability of Lipozyme® RM IM in system II was also evaluated under optimal conditions, after eight consecutive 24 h-batches, with biocatalyst rehydration between cycles. The biocatalyst presented a half-life time of 103 h.
... The argan tree is appreciated for its edible oil, extracted from the kernels of the fruit. This oil is recognized worldwide for its nutritional values, and is sought by the cosmetic industry for its skin and hair hydration and anti-aging properties [2]. Argan oil was prepared by women on the cooperatives following a multistep process from the fruits of the argan tree. ...
Article
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Argan oil is most frequently sold as pure oil, which can be directly applied topically due to its cosmetological proprieties or ingested in order to provide several health benefits. It's also commonly mixed into a number of cosmetic products like shampoos, soaps, and conditioners. In this study we aimed to improve the argan oil extraction yield and quality parameters by comparing the effects of different extraction technologies. Argan kernel oils were extracted using four methods: mechanical cold press, Soxhlet extraction with n-hexane, supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), and enzyme assisted extraction with three different enzyme solutions cellulase (cellulast), pectinase (Pectinex) and a mixture of carbohydrase enzymes (Viscozyme®). The quality parameters was evaluated by determining the acid, peroxide and iodine values as well as the extinction coefficients K232 and K270 as measures of conjugated dienes and trienes, respectively. The results showed that the highest yield (66.37% ± 3.3%) was obtained by enzyme assisted extraction using the carbohydrases enzymes mixture (Viscozyme®), followed by Soxhlet extraction (59.5% ± 3.1%) and pectinase extraction (52.03% ± 3.55%). All argan oils samples obtained by the different methods showed a good oxidation stability, with acid, peroxide and iodine values lower than 0.8 mg/g, 15 meq/kg and 110 g/100 g according to the official argan oil norm, respectively. The results of argan oils quality parameters demonstrated that the enzyme extracted argan oils showed low oxidation, with the following quality parameters: acid values (0.4–0.6 mg/g), iodine values (95–100 g/100 g), dienes (K232 < 2), trienes (K270 < 0.35), and peroxide values (<1.5 meq/kg). The results proved that the enzyme assisted extraction method can be applied to improve the argan oil yield without affecting the oil quality. The enzyme extraction method may be a great alternative to solvent and cold press extractions for this eco-friendly processing approach.
Article
Argan oil (AO) is a valuable functional lipid due to its rich content of unsaturated fats and minor bioactive compounds with significant functional and physiological benefits. Despite its potential, comprehensive reviews on its role as dietary lipids and biological indicators are limited. This study evaluates recent findings on AO's bioactive molecules, nutritional profile, phytochemical composition, pharmacological effects, and underlying mechanisms. It highlights AO’s potential as a food ingredient and emphasizes the need for further research. AO contains bioactive compounds like phytosterols, flavonoids, vitamins, pigments, polyphenols, and trace metals, contributing to its health benefits. It aids in preventing cardiovascular diseases, diabetes, and cancer and helps reduce acne-related issues, thanks to compounds like syringic, ferulic, and caffeic acids. Widely used in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries, AO also exhibits antioxidant, antimicrobial, antidiabetic, and cardioprotective properties. Additionally, triterpenoids like lupenone, ursane, and oleanane enhance their anticancer and antidiabetic potential. AO's promising health benefits call for expanded research into its nutritional applications, particularly in food systems. Due to the limited studies on the utilization of AO in foods, further research is highly recommended based on the current findings of this study. Future studies should explore the application of AO across various food systems. Collaboration between academia and industry is essential to optimize AO's use for both domestic and industrial purposes, thereby unlocking its full potential.
Article
This study investigates the use of a non-destructive ultrasonic pulse-echo method to characterize argan oil and other vegetable oils with similar fatty acid profiles. Ultrasonic parameters such as velocity, acoustic attenuation and reflection coefficient were measured across different temperatures. These parameters were used to create predictive models of ultrasonic velocity using partial least squares regression. Results demonstrated significant correlations between ultrasonic properties, oil temperature and fatty acid content. Specifically, ultrasonic velocity was found to be directly proportional to the content of saturated fatty acids and inversely proportional to the content of monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids. The reflection coefficient was also found to correlate with the fatty acid composition and temperature of the oils. Additionally, both ultrasonic velocity and acoustic attenuation decreased as the temperature increased from 25 °C to 50 °C. At 25 °C, the acoustic attenuation for argan oil was 22.37 Np/m, decreasing to 11.37 Np/m at 50 °C. These correlations allowed for the differentiation between food-grade argan oil, argan oil from seeds regurgitated by goats, sesame oil and peanut oil. The developed predictive models exhibited high coefficients of determination, with a value of 97.03 for argan oil, indicating strong agreement between measured and predicted ultrasonic velocities. This research highlights the potential of ultrasonic techniques for oil characterization and quality control.
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Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration’s 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.
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Herein, we isolated three triterpenoid saponins from the methanol extract of the fruit pulp of argan. The structures of the identified compounds were determined using comprehensive NMR spectroscopy analyses (¹H, ¹³C NMR, COSY, TOCSY, ROESY, and HSQC), combined with mass spectroscopy. Gas chromatography (GC) was utilized to determine the monosaccharide contents after the samples underwent methanolysis and their glycoside configuration was proved via their trimethylsilyl derivatives. Furthermore, the methanol extract of the fruit pulp and its n-butanol fraction were evaluated for their antioxidant properties via DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays, antidiabetic activity using α-amylase and α-glucosidase inhibition activities, and antibacterial properties utilizing microdilution and antibiofilm assays. Compared to the crude methanol extract, our results showed that the n-butanol fraction exhibited more potent antioxidant activity and antibacterial potential against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Salmonella typhi, Enterococcus faecalis, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (MIC = 12.5–50 mg/mL); while no effect on the bacterial biofilm was observed. The methanol extract was more effective in inhibiting α-glucosidase (EC50 = 0.15 mg/mL), however, the n-butanol fraction elicited strong α-amylase inhibition (EC50 = 0.49 mg/mL). These findings suggest that the fruit pulp of argan could serve as a potential source of phytochemicals suitable for the treatment of diabetes and its related complications.
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Oils derived from plant sources, mainly fixed oils from seeds and essential oil from other parts of the plant, are gaining interest as they are the rich source of beneficial compounds that possess potential applications in different industries due to their preventive and therapeutic actions. The essential oils are used in food, medicine, cosmetics, and agriculture industries as they possess antimicrobial, anticarcinogenic, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties. Plant based oils contain polyphenols, phytochemicals, and bioactive compounds which show high antioxidant activity. The extractions of these oils are a crucial step in terms of the yield and quality attributes of plant oils. This review paper outlines the different modern extraction techniques used for the extraction of different seed oils, including microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), cold-pressed extraction (CPE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), supercritical-fluid extraction (SFE), enzyme-assisted extraction (EAE), and pulsed electric field-assisted extraction (PEF). For the identification and quantification of essential and bioactive compounds present in seed oils, different modern techniques—such as high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), gas chromatography–infrared spectroscopy (GC-IR), atomic fluorescence spectroscopy (AFS), and electron microscopy (EM)—are highlighted in this review along with the beneficial effects of these essential components in different in vivo and in vitro studies and in different applications. The primary goal of this research article is to pique the attention of researchers towards the different sources, potential uses and applications of oils in different industries.
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A comparative antifungal efficacy study of argan kernels was performed using different solvent fractions obtained by the two extraction methods: cold extraction by maceration at room temperature (1) and hot extraction by Soxhlet apparatus (2). Results demonstrated that the two extraction methods induce different yields among each solvent used. Maceration promoted the maximum contents of crude extract in hexane (42.15%), diethyl ether (2.59%), dichloromethane (4.22%), and ethyl acetate (2.52%). Whereas the hot extraction yielded higher extractives in the case of methanol (22.97%) and water (5.88%) compared to cold extraction. The MIC values of the fractionated extracts obtained by maceration were in the range of 0.051 ± 0.002 and 0.223 ± 0.005 g/ml, whilst they were in the range of 0.101 ± 0.002 and 0.286 ± 0.005 g/ml for the Soxhlet extracts. According to total activity (TA) interpretation, dichloromethane was the most effective solvent to extract active antifungal components, revealing the strongest ability to suppress the growth of fungi at much lower MIC values (0.051 ± 0.002 to 0.156 ± 0.005 g/ml) than the rest of fractions. The effect of heating resulted in an increase of the MICs values of the Soxhlet extracts from 10 to 25 times higher than macerated ones, resulting in lower antifungal activity.
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Amaç: Bu çalışmanın amacı altın otu esansiyel yağı ve argan yağı karışımının yanıt yüzey metodolojisi (YYM) koşullarında mikrokapsüle edilmesi ve uygun krem formülasyonundaki antioksidan aktivitesinin belirlenmesidir. Materyal ve Yöntem: YYM deney tasarımı kullanılarak, kompleks koaservasyon yöntemi ile mikrokapsül üretilmiştir. Araştırma Bulguları: Altın otu esansiyel yağı ve argan yağı karışımlı, jelatin/arap zamkı duvarlı mikrokapsüller üretilmiş ve karakterize edilmiştir. Oluşturulan deney tasarımına verilerimiz işlenerek ANOVA sonuçları elde edilmiştir. Mikrokapsül içeren kremin antioksidan kapasitesi yüksek bulunmuştur. Sonuç: YYM ile üç farklı parametrede, kompleks koaservasyon yöntemiyle mikrokapsül üretilip, karakterize edilmiştir. Mikrokapsüllerin morfolojik görüntüleri için SEM (taramalı elektron mikroskobu) ve optik mikroskoptan yararlanılmış olup, yapıyı aydınlatmak için GC-MS (gaz kromatografisi-kütle spektroskopisi) ve FT-IR (Fourier dönüşümlü kızılötesi spektroskopisi) kullanılmıştır. Mikrokapsüller kreme eklenip, kremin antioksidan kapasitesi CUPRAC metoduyla yorumlanmıştır. Tüm veriler değerlendirildiğinde altın otu ve argan yağı karışımı kompleks koaservasyon yöntemi kullanılarak başarılı bir şekilde mikrokapsüle edilmiştir. Mikrokapsül içeren kozmetik kremin etkin bir şekilde antioksidan kapasiteye sahip olduğu görülmüştür.
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Various different agri-food biomasses might be turned into renewable sources for producing biodegradable and edible plastics, potentially attractive for food, agricultural and cosmeceutical sectors. In this regard, different seeds utilized for edible and non-edible oil extraction give rise to high amounts of organic by-products, known as seed oil cakes (SOCs), potentially able to become protein-rich resources useful for the manufacturing of biodegradable films. This study reports the potential of SOC derived from Argania spinosa (argan), a well-known plant containing valuable non-refined oil suitable for food or cosmetic use, to be a promising valuable source for production of a protein-based matrix of biomaterials to be used in the pharmaco-cosmetic sector. Thus, glycerol-plasticized films were prepared by casting and drying using different amounts of argan seed protein concentrate, in the presence of increasing glycerol concentrations, and characterized for their morphological, mechanical, barrier, and hydrophilicity properties. In addition, their antioxidant activity and effects on cell viability and wound healing were investigated. The hydrophobic nature of the argan protein-based films, and their satisfying physicochemical and biological properties, suggest a biorefinery approach for the recycling of argan SOC as valuable raw material for manufacturing new products to be used in the cosmeceutical and food industries.
Article
Background: In Morocco, Argan oil is one of the products used for antidiabetic purposes. Objective: This work aims to study the acute and subchronic effect treatment of the roasted (Roil) and unroasted (UnRoil) Argan oils on oral glucose tolerance test (OGTT) and body weight in normal and diabetic rats, evaluate the effect of these oils on glucose absorption by the diaphragm, and determine total polyphenol, flavonoids, tannins, chlorophyll and carotenoids amounts. Methods: The investigation of the anti-hyperglycemic effect of Roil and UnRoil was performed on normal and alloxane-diabetic rats, by treating orally the animals with 2 mLKg-1/day of oils for 1 day (Acute treatment) and 4 weeks (Subchronic treatment). Then, OGTT was carried out at the end of each treatment and the body weight was checked for each week. Besides, these oils (1 gL-1) were tested on glucose absorption by the diaphragm isolated from Wistar rats, in vitro. Results: This work shows that Roil and UnRoil decrease significantly the postprandial glycemia level in acute and subchronic treatments in normal and diabetic rats. Besides, the intake of these oils in diabetic rats attenuates significantly the postprandial glycemia, compared to the acute-treated group. In vitro glucose uptake by the hemidiaphragm study shows that Argan oils promote glucose consumption by the muscles. Conclusion: Argan oils showed a very important anti-hyperglycemic effect, and this effect could be explained by promoting peripheral glucose uptake. UnRoil shows a better effect than Roil towards glucose consumption which means that the roasting process influences the phytoconstituent responsible for this activity.
Article
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UVB exposure causes DNA mutation and ROS generation, which lead to skin photoaging, skin wrinkling, skin sagging, and uneven skin pigmentation. ROS activate the NF-κB and MAPK signaling pathways leading to production of inflammatory molecules such as COX-2, collagen-degrading proteins such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), and moisture-deficiency-related proteins such as hyaluronidases (HYALs). UVB exposure also induces irregular skin pigmentation though melanin overproduction, related to CREB transcription factor activity and transcription of melanogenesis genes. Here, we demonstrate that Chrysophyllum lucentifolium methanol extract (Cl-ME) has antioxidant activity; it dose-dependently decreased the expression of COX-2, MMP-1, MMP-9, HYAL-1, and HYAL-4 by downregulating the NF-κB (IKKα/β, IκBα) and MAPK (ERK, JNK, and p38) pathways and increased the expression of Col1a1, which encodes a protein important for maintaining skin elasticity. Cl-ME also showed promising antimelanogenic activity by decreasing the expression of CREB, a transcription factor, which in turn inhibited the expression of genes encoding tyrosinase, MITF, TYRP1, and TYRP2. In summary, a methanol extract of C. lucentifolium exhibited antiphotoaging and antimelanogenic activity and could be useful in the cosmeceutical industry.
Article
Nano-cosmeceuticals are cosmetic formulations containing nano-drug delivery systems to carry cosmetic active molecules to the relevant skin tissues. The purpose of this research is to develop and optimize the semi-solid nanostructured lipid carriers for caffeine delivery to the deeper skin layers. It is also aimed to achieve a novel nanotechnology-based cosmeceutical formulation with predetermined quality. Hence both caffeine and argan oil encapsulated semi-solid NLCs were developed by following QbD steps. An artificial neural network (ANN) program was employed to reach optimized formulation with desired critical quality attributes (CQAs). The optimized formulation suggested by the ANN exhibited a particle size of 186.5 nm with a PDI value of 0.208 and the occlusion factor of the optimized formulation reached 50.25% after 12h. A high level of similarity was obtained between the CQAs predicted by ANN and experimental results for the optimum formulation. The present study concluded that the novel caffeine-loaded semi-solid NLC formulation which also contains argan oil is a promising candidate for local treatment of cellulite and it may possess the measurable skin effect. Moreover; a high-quality nano-cosmeceutical product was obtained with the help of artificial intelligence by following QbD steps for the first time to the best of our knowledge.
Article
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For years, in southwestern Morocco, the decline of the argan forest has been accompanied by the concomitant desert encroachment. Preservation of this forest by increasing the economic value of argan tree was proposed twenty years ago, but successful large scale production of certified, high quality argan oil, an edible oil introduced as a functional food, has only been recently achieved. Argan oil is now marketed in most developed countries, despite its elevated price, and protection of the argan forest is now seriously being considered. The aim of this work is to present the recent progress made in argan oil production, the ways explored to commercialize the oil extraction by-products, and recent attempts to use other argan tree parts as part of a long term aim to preserve the argan forest.
Article
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In Morocco, the region covered with argan trees is named the argan grove. Its long-term preservation depends on the discovery of new and economically rewarding markets to sell argan tree produces. At the present time, the argan oil appears to be the best candidate to fulfill this task. The scientific results that have allowed the emergence of argan oil on the international edible and cosmetic oil markets are reported together with recent analytic results. Alternative approaches, not based on argan oil marketing but also aimed at safeguarding the argan grove, are also reported.
Article
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The argan tree is a slow growing tree exclusively endemic in the dry lowlands of Southwest Morocco. The argan forest constitutes a long time ignored specific biotope that has been declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1998. The argan forest is particularly fragile to climate change. Forecasts show annual precipitation levels and prolonged drought periods that could severely threaten the future of the argan forest. In some places, the argan forest is already damaged, resulting in the retreat of the argan tree and the subsequent desert encroachment. An acceleration of this trend would have devastating consequences. In response, some twenty years ago, an ambitious, unique in Northern-Africa, and government-supported program was initiated in Morocco to rescue the argan tree via the sustainable development of the argan forest. Because in the late 1980s, sustainable development in developing countries was often considered as a utopia, the argan forest case represents a sign of progress, as it is also an interesting and unique experience in Africa. This review analyses the process followed, the measures taken, the pitfalls encountered, and the results obtained during the last two decades. It also points out the measures that still need to be taken before declaring the argan forest rescue mission is accomplished.
Article
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The therapeutic benefits of argan oil consumption have been claimed by natives of Morocco and explorers for more than eight centuries. However, argan oil has remained unresearched for a long time. Traditionally, argan oil has been well known for its cardioprotective properties and it is also used in the treatment of skin infections. Argan oil is principally composed of mono-unsaturated (up to 80%) and saturated (up to 20%) fatty acids. As minor components, it contains polyphenols, tocopherols, sterols, squalene, and triterpene alcohols. Together with the mono-unsaturated fatty acids, these minor components are likely to be responsible for its beneficial effects. This review aims to present an overview of the known pharmacological properties of argan oil. Antiproliferative, antidiabetic, and cardiovascular-protective effects of argan oil have been particularly actively evaluated over the last 5 years in order to build on phytochemical studies that indicate the presence of large amounts of possibly pharmacologically active compounds. This review shows that a lack of clinical data constitutes a serious weakness in our knowledge about argan oil, therefore it is difficult to correlate the reported pharmacological activities to any potential clinical relevance.
Article
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The composition of the essential oil from the fresh and dried pulp of the fruit of Argania spinosa (Skeels) L. has been studied. Camphor was the major component in both oil types, but in addition, the fresh fruit oil had significant amounts of 1,8-cineole, endo-borneol, and 2-(4-methylcyclohex-3-enyl)-propan-2-ol., and the dried pulp oil 3,5-dimethyl-4-ethylidene-cyclohex-2-ene-1-one, 1,8-cineole, and 2-methylbutanoic acid. The presence of camphor and 1,8-cineole in argan fruit essential oil suggests that it could be used locally as an insect repellent, offering an output for argan fruit pulp that is at present a waste product.
Article
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The aim of this study was to evaluate the fatty acids, tocopherols, squalene, sterols and phenolic antioxidants in three types of argan oil (Moroccan food, Moroccan aesthetic and a French commercial variety) along with a basic comparison with extra virgin olive and sunflower oil. The fatty acid profiles in the argan oils were very similar, with oleic acid (43%) and linoleic acid (36%) and their respective monoacylglycerols predominating. The major vitamer identified was -tocopherol with a mean of 483+/-11 mg/kg, in contrast to -tocopherol, which is the major vitamer in olive (190+/-1 mg/kg) and sunflower oil (532+/-6 mg/kg). The squalene content of the argan oils was very similar with a mean of 313+/-4 mg/100 g, which is lower than that of the olive oil (499 mg/100 g) but significantly higher than in the sunflower oil (6 mg/100 g). In contrast to olive and sunflower oils in which -sitosterol is predominant, the major sterols detected in the argan oils were schottenol (mean 147+/-10 mg/kg) and spinasterol (mean 122+/-10 mg/kg). The only phenolic compounds other than the tocopherol vitamers which could be readily detected and quantitated were vanillic, syringic and ferulic (probably conjugated to glucose) acids along with tyrosol. In contrast to the extra virgin olive oil (793 mg/kg), the concentration of total phenolic compounds is extremely low (<5.0 mg/kg). Nevertheless, argan oil with its high content of the vitamer -tocopherol, squalene and oleic acid is likely to enhance the cancer prevention effects of the Moroccan diet.
Presentation
Ellagic acid, a polyphenol compound present in berries and nuts, has received attention as an agent that may have potential bioactivities preventing chronic diseases. UV radiation led to collagen degradation mediated by MMP has been suggested to cause skin wrinkling. In this study, we examined the photoprotective effect of ellagic acid on collagen degradation and inflammation responses in UV‐B irradiated human skin cells. Ellagic acid attenuated the UV‐B‐induced toxicity of skin cells, evidenced by MTT assay. Western blot analysis revealed that ellagic acid markedly prevented collagen degradation through blocking production of MMP in UV‐B‐exposed dermal fibroblasts. In addition, ellagic acid mitigated expression of inflammatory ICAM‐1 in UV‐B‐irradiated HaCaT cells. Anti‐wrinkle activity of topical ellagic acid was further investigated in vivo in hairless mice exposed to UV‐B for 8 weeks. Topical application of 10 µM ellagic acid on the skin surface of hairless mice inhibited UV‐B‐triggered skin wrinkle formation and increase in epidermal thickness. Additionally, ellagic acid attenuated production of pro‐inflammatory cytokines IL‐1β and IL‐6 in mice. These results demonstrate that ellagic acid prevents UV‐B‐irradiated wrinkle formation and photoaging caused by collagen destruction and inflammatory responses. Supported by grant (KRF F00072) from Korea Research Foundation and Brain Korea 21.
Article
Southwestern Moroccan women crack the hardest nuts (Argan) in the world between two stones by hand for nine hours a day, six days a week. Most women complain of pain in the fingers due to the repetitive nature of the cracking activity and some suffer from broken fingers. They receive little compensation for this hard work and, as a result, have formed cooperatives for both companionship and improvement in productivity. Nut cracking is the bottleneck in the overall process of oil production from the nut kernel. In an effort to strengthen the women's cooperatives, a simple device was designed, fabricated and tested with the goal of increasing productivity while alleviating the dangers of hand cracking. Testing of 30 Argan nuts from the Touradant region of Southwestern Morocco was performed on a material testing machine to establish the force to crack the shell in relation to nut orientation. The results revealed no significant relationship between dimensional properties of the Argan nut and the cracking force. This information was used in the development of a hand operated nut cracking device. The device included a lever arm, an autoloader (rotator hexagonal wheel) and the associated harmonizing mechanism, a nut feed hopper, a cracking ram and plate, and a wooden housing that held all the elements together. The cost was estimated to be below US$100.00, essentially a fifth of what the women currently earn in a year. The device performed satisfactorily with respect to yielding intact kernels. However, further modifications were needed before realizing the target increase in cracking speed. Funding is being sought to fabricate and test the second generation device in the hands of the Moroccan women.
Article
Sensory quality of edible oil is essential to get the consumer acceptance. Modifications during processing can alter edible oil sensory quality. The storage stability and sensory quality of argan oil prepared from (1) mechanically pressed unroasted kernels, (2) mechanically pressed roasted kernels, (3) hand-pressed roasted kernels, and (4) hand-pressed roasted kernels coming from goat-digested fruits was studied at room temperature and under accelerated conditions (60°C). The roasting process had a positive effect on storage stability of the resulting oils, while argan oil prepared from mechanically pressed roasted kernels provides the optimum storage stability. Oil from hand-pressed roasted kernels originating from goat-digested fruits was not suitable for human consumption because of the unpleasant taste and odoûr. Only oil from mechanically pressed roasted kernels did not produce negative sensory attributes like fusty or Roquefort cheese.
Article
On international scale the Codex Alimentarius Standard for Named Vegetable Oils differentiates between virgin oils and cold-pressed oils, while in Germany virgin, non-refined and refined oils are available. Here cold-pressed is an additional quality feature. The paper explains and comments the various definitions for vegetable oils other than olive oil obtained by mechanical extraction only, because they are partly contradictory. Resulting from gentle processing virgin oils are often appreciated by the consumers as the better oils. The answer of the present paper to the question which type of oil is better is that there is no better or worse oil, but only a better or worse suitability of an oil for application in food processing or the kitchen. Finally, the paper picks up the upcoming debate on the potential ’new' contaminant, 3-MCPD-fatty acid esters, which were found in refined oils.
Article
Edible argan oil is traditionally prepared by Berber women who manually crunch the roasted kernels of Argania spinosa fruits. Unroasted kernels furnish a cosmetic-grade oil. Argan groves are currently shrinking due to unfavorable conditions. To stop this trend, a program aimed at increasing the argan tree economical value is in progress in Morocco. Its concept is that the natives will preserve argan trees only if the major part of the wealth resulting from the argan grove production directly benefits them. Because of its high dietary value, argan oil has appeared as the best derivative to rapidly satisfy such assumption. Consequently, year after year, cooperatives have been implanted to produce argan oil of high quality on a large scale. The delicate hazelnut taste of argan oil, combined with its high level in unsaturated fatty acids, has allowed its swift commercial success and, nowadays, argan oil of standardized quality is marketed worldwide. Moroccan farmers are now beginning to plant argan trees, confirming the full success of this ambitious program. This review summarizes the methods used to prepare argan oil, its composition, the strategies available to certify argan oil quality, and finally the impact of argan oil on human health.
Article
Five new triterpene saponins, arganine L (1), O (2), P (3), Q (4) and R (5), were isolated from the barks of Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels. Arganines L-P and R are bidesmosidic saponins. The structures of 1–5 were elucidated as 3-O-[β-d-xylopyranosyl-(1–4)-β-d-glucuronopyranosyl]-28-O-[β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1–3)-β-d-xylopyranosyl-(1–4)-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1–2)-α-l-arabinopyranosyl] bayogenin, 3-O-[β-d-xylopyranosyl-(1–4)-β-d-glucuronopyranosyl]-28-O-[β-d-xylopyranosyl-(1–4)-α-l-arabinopyranosyl] bayogenin, 3-O-[β-d-xylopyranosyl-(1–4)-β-d-glucuronopyranosyl]-28-O-[α-l-arabinopyranosyl] bayogenin, 3-O-[β-d-xylopyranosyl-(1–4)-β-d-glucuronopyranosyl] bayogenin, and 3-O-[β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1–4)-β-d-glucuronopyranosyl]-28-O-[β-d-xylopyranosyl-(1–4)-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1–2)-α-l-arabinopyranosyl] bayogenin, respectively, mainly on the basis of their spectroscopic data.
Article
The argan tree, Argania sideroxylon Roem. & Schult. (A. spinosa (L.) Maire), of the family Sapotaceae, essential to the dwellers of southwestern Morocco and long admired by explorers and travelers, has remained little known to botanists and horticulturists outside its natural area. It is slow growing and long lived on calcareous soil. The young seedlings furnish almost the only forage for goats and other herbivores during several months of the year and the animals relish the flesh of the abundant fruits. The ejected seeds yield a yellow oil commonly consumed as human food. Among its constituents are four sterols, two methylsterols, and five triterpenic alcohols. The wood is hard, prized locally, and much used for fuel. Excessive exploitation of the tree has stimulated local moves toward conservation and cultivation. Argan seedlings are being grown experimentally at the U.S.D.A. Subtropical Horticulture Research Unit, Miami, and by Victor Wynne in Haiti, with a view to trial in semi- arid regions of near- Mediterranean climate. In English greenhouse culture, vegetative propagation has been achieved by cuttings and layers.
Article
The present study investigated the oxidative stability of the threemarketed types of edible argan oil. Edible argan oil is prepared by pressing the slightly roasted kernels of peeled argan fruit. High quality edible argan oil is exclusively prepared using mechanical presses. However, hand-extracted argan oil is still artisanally produced and can be found in local markets. In this latter case, goat-peeled fruit is still sometimes introduced in the oil production chain even though the resulting oil is notoriously of unsatisfactory quality. The oxidative stability of press-extracted, hand-extracted, and goat-peeled fruit derived argan oil was analyzed using as physicochemical metrics: fatty acid composition, β-carotene level, phosphorus level, tocopherol level, iodine index, saponification, peroxide and acid values, specific extinction, and Rancimat induction time. The variations of these parameters were evaluated over a period of 2 years at 5 °C, 25 °C (protected or exposed to sunlight), or 40 °C. After this period of time, mechanically extracted argan oil still presents an excellent physicochemical profile. Domestic and traditionally prepared argan oil presents much less satisfactory properties after the same period.
Article
Populations of the South-western part of Morocco traditionally use the fruits of Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels to prepare an edible oil whose obtainment furnishes, as side product, a cake used to feed the cattle and complemented the forage furnished by the leaves and fruits of this same plant. However, the wood of A. spinosa is also used for fuel and the subsequent induced deforestation is nowadays accelerated since populations are generally eager to replace argan-groves by cultures of higher and immediate benefits. Recently, argan tree, that is particularly well adapted to grow in arid lands, has been proposed by several agencies to slow down the desert progress in Northern Africa. In order to promote argan tree reintroduction by the South-western Morocco dwellers, a program aimed to increase the industrial value of A. spinosa is currently carried out in Morocco. A phytochemical study is included in this program. Traditional knowledge as well as the most recent results concerning A. spinosa are described in this review.
Article
Metal content was determined in 26 samples of virgin argan oil from Morocco. An ETA-AAS with previous sample dilution with MIBK technique was used. In oil obtained by traditional method, Fe ranged from 0.8 to 4.0 mg/kg, Cu from 160.4 to 695.7 microg/kg, Cr from 10.3 to 55.3 microg/kg, Mn from 18.1 to 70.8 microg/kg, and Pb from 28.5 to 450.0 microg/kg. In oil obtained by a half-industrialized method, Fe ranged from 0.8 to 1.7 mg/kg, Cu from 158.4 to 385.0 microg/kg, Cr from 10.0 to 48.1 microg/kg, Mn from 15.0 to 68.5 microg/kg, and Pb from 32.0 to 100.0 microg/kg. Acidity value, peroxide index, K270 and K232, humidity and sludge volatile, and insoluble sludges in petroleum ether were also determined. A high variability in these quality parameters and a decrease of the quality in the oils obtained by the traditional method were observed.
Article
Virgin argan oil, cosmetic or dietary grade, is prepared by cold-pressing the kernels of argan fruits. Both types of oil, traditionally used by the amazighs (the argan grove traditional dwellers), are now available on the shelves of the most-developed country stores. Argan oil contains a high level of oleic and linoleic acid and is also particularly rich in phenols. Since these metabolites are currently considered as essential to explain some of the protective effects against cancer and coronary heart disease attributed to other oils, similar effects can be expected from argan oil consumption as suggested by the amazigh medicine claims. Interestingly, argan oil content in gamma -tocopherol is much higher than that of any other oils. gamma -Tocopherol has recently been shown to possess strong chemopreventive and anti-inflammatory properties. This indicates that argan oil should readily find a place of choice amid the most profitable oils for human health. Because of its reduced geographical origin, the chemical composition (major as well as minor components) of argan oil is also highly reproducible. Therefore argan oil consumption should confer health benefits in a reliable and efficient manner.
Article
Five new oleanane saponins named arganine A, B, D, E and F and two known saponins: arganine C and mi-saponin A were isolated from the kernel of Argania spinosa. The structures of these saponins were elucidated by using 1H NMR, 1H-1H COSY NMR, 13C NMR, FAB mass spectrometry and chemical evidence.
Article
The structures of three novel saponins from Argania spinosa, named arganines G, H, and J, have been elucidated by MS and NMR techniques as 3-O-beta-D-apiofuranosyl- (1-->4)-beta-D-glucopyranosyl-28-O-beta-D-glucopyranosylbayogenin (1), 3-O-beta-D-apiofuranosyl-(1-->4)-beta-D-glucopyranosyl-28-O-alpha- L- arabinopyranosylbayogenin (2), and 3-O-beta-D-apiofuranosyl-(1-->4)-beta-D-glucopyranosyl-28-O- [beta-D-apiofuranosyl-(1-->3)-beta-D-xylopyranosyl-(1-->4)-alpha-L - rhamnopyranosyl-(1-->2)-alpha-L-arabinopyranosyl]bayogenin (3), respectively.
Article
Some botanical compounds are considered useful to reduce sebum production. Aim To evaluate the efficacy of a sebum control cream containing polyphenol-rich extract from saw palmetto, sesame seeds, and argan oil in subjects with oily facial skin. The study was carried out during the winter months (January and February). A total of 20 healthy volunteers (9 male and 11 female, aged 17-50 years, 16 with oily skin and 4 with combined skin) were studied. The test product was applied twice daily to the face for a period of 4 weeks. A clinical assessment and instrumental measurements were done before and after the treatment period. Casual sebum level on the forehead and both cheeks was determined with a photometric device (Sebumeter). The quantity of sebum on the midforehead was determined using sebum collector foils (Sebufix), which were then evaluated with skin camera Visioscope and software SELS (Surface Evaluation of the Living Skin). A subjective evaluation questionnaire regarding the cosmetic characteristics, tolerance, and efficacy of the product was filled out by the volunteers at the end of study. The product was very well accepted by all the volunteers. A visible sebum-regulating efficacy was reported in 95% of them. After 4 weeks of treatment, the clinical assessment scores decreased by 33%. There was a significant reduction in the casual sebum level by 20% and area covered with oily spots by 42%. The number of active sebaceous glands remained unaltered. These results objectively and quantitatively show the efficacy of the sebum control cream tested to reduce the greasiness and improve the appearance of oily facial skin.
Use of an unsaponifiable extract of plant pulp in the treatment of skin ageing
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Fabre, B., Belle, R., Charveron, M., Baudouin, C., Use of an unsaponifiable extract of plant pulp in the treatment of skin ageing. US 2009/0012049 P. Fabre Dermocosmé SA, 2009.
Formulation of argan oil-based lipid emulsion for parenteral nutrition
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Bensouada, Y., Formulation of argan oil-based lipid emul-sion for parenteral nutrition. WO 2008/002116, 2006.
Composition containing a C-glycoside compound. US patent
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Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition for pre-vention and/or treatment of sensitive or dry skin. US patent
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Breton, L., Jourdain, R., Gueniche, A., Bureau-Frantz, I. et al., Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition for pre-vention and/or treatment of sensitive or dry skin. US patent 2009/0232785 L'Oré, France, 2009.
Huile d'argan enrichie, procédé de pré et composition cosmé la comprenant. French patent 94 11174
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Fabre, B., Trebosc, M. T., Huile d'argan enrichie, procédé de pré et composition cosmé la comprenant. French patent 94 11174; FR 2724 663, P. Fabre Dermocosmé, 1994.
Verwendung eines Extraktes aus der Pflanze Argania spinosa
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Henry, F., Danoux, L., Pauly, G., Charrouf, Z., Verwendung eines Extraktes aus der Pflanze Argania spinosa. European patent EP 1 430 900 Cognis France SA, Saint Martory, 2004.
Cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical preparation containing leaf extracts of the plantArgania spinosa
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Pauly, G., Henry, F., Danoux, L., Charrouf, Z., Cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical preparation containing leaf extracts of the plant Argania spinosa. EP 1347768 Cognis France SA, Saint Martory, 2001.
Extrait lipidique du fruit de l'arganier, procédé de pré et application en cosmé
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Kosmetische und/oder dermopharmazeutische Zubereitungen enthaltend native Proteine aus der Pflanze Argania spinosa
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Pauly, G., Henry, F., Moser, P., Charrouf, Z., Kosmetische und/oder dermopharmazeutische Zubereitungen enthaltend native Proteine aus der Pflanze Argania spinosa. European patent 1 213 024 Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Dü, 2002.
Cosmetic and/or phar-maceutical preparations that contain an extract of the plant Argania spinosa. US patent
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Charrouf, Z., Henry, F., Pauly, G., Cosmetic and/or phar-maceutical preparations that contain an extract of the plant Argania spinosa. US patent 2003/0138394 Cognis Corporation, Gulph Mill, 2002.
Cosmetic compositions containing selected fatty acids and squalene
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Schulze zur Wiesche, E., Somfleth, P., Li, Q. Y., Gassenmeier, T., Cosmetic compositions containing selected fatty acids and squalene. WO/2008/080701 Henkel, Dü sseldorf, 2007.
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Ellagic acid prevents ultraviolet radiation-induced chronic skin damage of skin cells and in the hairless mice
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Association d'huile et de peptides d'argan utile pour le traitement des troubles lié au vieillessement cutané
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Fort Lacoste, L., Fabre, B., Charveron, M., Association d'huile et de peptides d'argan utile pour le traitement des troubles lié au vieillessement cutané. French patent FR 2756 183 P, Fabre Dermocosmé SA, 1996.
Hair treatment means
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Schulze zur Wiesche, E., Fö rster, T., Hair treatment means. WO 2010/026009 Henkel AG&Co, Germany, 2010.
Cosmetic composition containing argan oil and shea butter
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Schulze zur Wiesche, E., Kursawe, P., Somfleth, P., Poppe, E., Cosmetic composition containing argan oil and shea butter. WO 2008/080708 Henkel, Germany, 2008.
Oil compositions obtained from non-heated plant parts introduced ground and non-heated in the press extracted by cold pressing
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Boucher, C., Oil compositions obtained from non-heated plant parts, introduced ground and non-heated in the press, extracted by cold pressing. WO/2004/050108 Société Celatour, Paris, 2006.
Composition containing cacao and spirulina
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Atlas de l'arganeraie et de l'arga-nier
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