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Halloumi cheese: The product and its characteristics

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Abstract

Halloumi, the traditional cheese of Cyprus, is extremely popular in the Middle East and the Mediterranean regions of Europe and in recent years exports from Cyprus have risen. The basic cheesemaking process places halloumi in the family of white brined cheeses, but some of its characteristics are quite unique. This paper reviews the studies that have been carried out on the chemical composition, manufacturing procedure(s), sensory quality and storage of halloumi, and considers some proposed developments, such as the use of reconstituted milk powders or homogenized milk.
Vol.
51,
No
3
August
1998
In
ferncrtionul
.Iortrnaf
qf
Dairy
Terhnologj.
Review.
*Author
for
correspondence.
0
1998
Society
of
Dairy
Technology
Halloumi cheese: the product and its characteristics
PHOTIS PAPADEMAS and RICHARD K ROBINSON*
Department of Food Science
&
Technology,
PO
Box 226, University of Reading, Reading,
Berkshire RG6 6AP, UK
Halloumi, the traditional cheese of Cyprus, is extremely popular
in
the Middlc
Eust
uiid
the
Mediterranean regions of Europe and in recent years exports from Cyprus have risen. The basic
cheesemaking process places halloumi in the family
of
white brined cheeses,
but
some
of
its
characteristics are quite unique. This paper reviews the studies that have been carried
out
on the
chemical composition, manufacturing procedure(s), sensory quality and storage
of
halloumi, and
considers some proposed developments, such as the use of reconstituted milk powders or
homogenized milk.
INTRODUCTION
Cheesemaking is a practice that has been per-
formed for several thousands of years, pri-
marily as a means of preserving the milk.
Early records suggest that cheesemaking
dates back as far as 6000-7000
BC’
and, later,
Homer
circa
1184
BC
in the classic work
The
Odyssey
refers to cheese being made from
ovine and caprine milks
by
the ‘Cyclops’ in
local caves. Herodotus, the father of History,
and the great philosopher Aristotle also refer
to special cheeses of local origin.’
Many of the varieties of cheese that are
made today in the eastern Mediterranean and
the Middle East are probably derived from
these early products, and halloumi may well
be among them. Although halloumi was orig-
inally only popular in Cyprus, its appeal has
spread worldwide, and exports into the
European Union (EU), for example, have
risen from
300
metric tonnes in
1990
to 764
metric tonnes in 1996; the UK absorbs more
than 60% of the total imports into the
EU
from Cyprus every year.*
MANUFACTURE
OF
HALLOUMI CHEESE
Traditional halloumi cheese, which is of
Cypriot origin, is semihard to hard, elastic,
has no obvious skinlrind and the texture is
close with no holes and it is easily sliced.
Its colour varies from white (when ovine or
caprine milk is used) to yellowish (when
bovine milk is the main ingredient).3 It can be
consumed raw, but it is usually grilled, fried
or grated over a hot dish. When halloumi
is
heated, the texture is comparable to that of
the raw product, but the stretch and melt
characteristics are altered quite markedly. On
heating, molten halloumi has been described
as a concentrated viscoelastic polymer solu-
tioq4 in that at low values of applied strain,
viscous flow is apparent and elasticity is not
so
evident, while with increasing values of
strain, the response is more elastic and much
less viscous. For local use, the cheese may
be stored in salted whey for a considerable
period of time, and the amount of salt in the
whey is important with respect to the stability
of the cheese.
As
halloumi is a traditional cheese, the
procedures of manufacture vary from place
to place throughout Cyprus, and this situa-
tion creates a lot of confusion as to which is
the ‘correct’ procedure. This issue is a point
of
some importance, as the Government
of Cyprus wishes to protect the identity of
the cheese by imposing a uniform system
of production.
Specified method of manufacture
The manufacture of halloumi cheese has been
assessed during a number
of
~tudies,~-~ and
is now controlled by regulations from
Government bodies.’ The overall procedure is
shown in Fig.
1,
and a crucial step in the man-
ufacturing process is the cooking stage; by
law; the blocks of cheese must be heated
for at least
30
minutes at a temperature
higher than 90°C. After the cooking stage,
halloumi cheese attains the ‘chicken breast’
characteristic of developing cheddar cheese.
The blocks (10
X
15
X
3
cm) are then dry
salted and sprinkled with crushed leaves of
dry mint,
Mentha viridis,
before being folded
in half. The blocks are then piled into a con-
venient container and, after chilling overnight,
salted whey is poured into the container until
the blocks are covered. This fresh halloumi is
kept in the salted whey for approximately
3
hours, before being shrink wrapped ready for
distribution. For local consumption, halloumi
cheese may be sold in plastic or glass con-
tainers filled with salted whey.
Various factors can affect the quality of
the finished halloumi, and the timeltempera-
ture profile within the cheese during the cook-
ing stage is crucial. Half cooked curds will
give an irregular colour (greenish) in the cen-
tre of the block, and the rate
of
temperature
98
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International Journal
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Dairy Technology
Fresh pasteurized ovine, caprine, bovine
milk or a mixture
i
Coagulation with rennet at 33kl"C
for 40-60 min.
J-
Curd cutting
to
1 cm3 grains
i
i
4
i
i-
The coagulum rests and precipitates
for 10 min
Pressure of 550 Pa of curd for 1 h
Cut into blocks (10
X
15
x
3 cm)
Blocks placed in hot whey, 9496°C
Cook for 1 h
J-
Drain and cool
J.
Dry salted (3% wiw), and sprinkled
with dry
Mentha
viridis
leaves;
fold crossways and leave to chill overnight
4
Storage in 11% NaCl whey or
shrink wrap
Fig. 1. Traditional process for production
of
halloumi
cheese.
increase in the centre of the block depends
heavily on its
dimension^.^
Contrasts between
the use of ovine or bovine milks have been
examined as well: and differences in the
percentages of fat and protein between the
two milks affected the yield of the cheese.
Alterations in the technology were rated as
important in the following respects: (i) the
cooking time of the cheese should be shorter
when using ovine milk alone; and (ii) the
pressure applied to the initial curd in order to
expel the whey has to be greater and applied
for a longer period of time when bovine milk
is the main ingredient. Economides
et
all0
employed pure ovine, caprine and bovine
milks for the production of halloumi cheese,
and a mixture of equal parts of ovine and
caprine milks. The chemical composition of
the cheeses was determined (see Table l), and
multiple linear regressions were utilized to
develop prediction equations for cheese out-
put from the four types of milk. Total fat,
protein and casein were regarded as impor-
tant variables in predicting cheese output, as
was the casein to fat ratio.
Chemical
composition
According to the Cypriot Standards, the fin-
ished product should contain a maximum
3%
of sodium chloride and a minimum fat-in-dry
matter level of 43%. The maximum moisture
content for halloumi cheese is 46%. Most
products on the market meet these require-
ments, and some typical analyses are shown
in Table 1.
Shaker
et als
examined which manufactur-
ing variables influenced the chemical compo-
sition and physical and sensory properties of
halloumi cheese made from bovine milk. The
composition was measured in terms of mois-
ture-non-fat substance (MNFS), fat-in-dry
matter (FDM), salt-in-moisture (S/M) and
pH. The calcium to solids-non-fat-non-salt
(Ca/SNFNS) was also determined as it could
be an important factor with respect to the
stretchability
of
heated cheese. The authors
99
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International Journal
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concluded that improved stretch and melt
characteristics, and a tender mouth feel of the
heated cheese, could be achieved by lowering
both the pH of the cheese and the Ca/SNFNS
ratio. Tenderness with respect to mouth feel
also improved at high levels of MNFS.
Although the traditional cheese is always
made with ovine milk-a raw material that is
in short supply, the growing market demand
for halloumi has raised the fear that manu-
facturers may attempt to adulterate ovine
milk with the bovine equivalent. The possi-
bility of detecting bovine milk in halloumi
cheese that should be of ovine origin was
examined by Kaminarides
et
all1 using poly-
acrylamide gel electrophoresis (PAGE). This
approach was based on the fact that the elec-
trophoretic mobility of bovine and ovine
a,l-
caseins differ, with bovine
a,l
-casein showing
more rapid migration. The electrophoretic
profile of this specific casein
(a,~)
was chosen
because it remains almost intact during both
cheese manufacture (cooking of the curd) and
cold storage under brine
(7%
NaCl).
For the detection of bovine milk, samples
of halloumi cheese at
1
day and
40
days after
production were subjected to
PAGE.
A
den-
sitometer, adjusted with the asl-casein band
from genuine bovine halloumi cheese, was
used to quantify the level
of
bovine milk pre-
sent in the adulterated samples by expressing
the density
of
the band for bovine o&-casein of
each sample as
a
percentage of that from gen-
uine bovine milk. The authors detected per-
centages as low as
2.5%
bovine milk in
samples of ovine halloumi cheese, irrespective
of the age of the cheese. Linear relationships
between the densities
of
the bovine &I-casein
bands in the adulterated samples and the per-
centages of bovine milk in the cheeses were
found to be between
2.5%
and 10% levels of
adulteration, and regression equations were
produced. These equations made it easy to cal-
culate levels of bovine milk higher than
2.5%
in cheese samples of unknown composition.
Although Tamime
et
aZ'*
suggested that
immunological techniques could be employed
to detect the adulteration of ovine milk with
bovine milk used for the manufacture of
kishk, Kaminarides
et
all'
believed that the
severe heat treatment employed during the
manufacture of halloumi cheese would, in the
present context, invalidate the procedure.
Physical properties
of
halloumi
As
mentioned above, halloumi cheese should
melt and stretch on heating, which means that
the compact texture of the cheese
will
be
partly lost and a degree of
flow
introduced to
the melted cheese. These properties are often
referred to as the 'meltability' and 'stretcha-
bility' of the cheese and, although obvious to
the consumer, they are characteristics that are
not easy to quantify.
Nevertheless, attempts to assess these fea-
tures and, in one study, the meltability of hal-
loumi cheese was determined' by measuring
the percentage increase in area after cubes of
cheese
(2
cm
sides) were placed in sealed alu-
minium dishes and held in
a
boiling water
bath for
25
minutes. The stretchability was
measured by placing pieces of cheese pre-
warmed in a water bath at 85°C for
4.5
min-
utes onto the base plate of an Instron Testing
Instrument (Instron Ltd, High Wycombe,
UK),
and then with a special hook, stretching
the soft cheese until the strand broke; the
length of the strand at the point of breaking
was recorded. The relevant figures are shown
in Table
2,
along with some com arable data
relating to mozzarella
An
alterna-
tive method for measuring meltability is the
Schreiber Test,ls which involves positioning
round samples of cheese in glass petri dishes,
and then placing the dishes in an oven at
232°C
for exactly
5
minutes.I6 The dishes are
removed from the oven, and the increase
in
diameter of the melted cheese over the original
is recorded after approximately
30
minutes.
However, the problem with tests of this
type is that they are rarely reproducible, and
the comparison of the results in Table
2
for
meltability suggests that the variation is
between techniques rather than products; it is
most unlikely that halloumi cheese would
spread on heating more than mozzarella.
Nevertheless, the values for relative stretcha-
bility are more in line with the expected
results, in that the properties of mozzarella
made from fresh milk are quite different from
those made from the recombined material;
the same appears to be true for halloumi.
The effect of homogenization pressure
on
the physical properties of mozzarella cheese can
be
seen from the results obtained by Lelievre
et
aL4
The most likely explanation
is
that, as
the homogenization pressure is raised, the
increased number of small fat globules retain
additional casein at the fat-water interface. The
formation of permanent crosslinks between
the casein micelles then effectively traps the fat
phase, so reducing the flow properties of the
B
100
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1998
International Journal
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Dairy Technology
heated cheese; a similar trend is evident with
halloumi cheese. This hypothesis also explains
the action of lecithin, in that by forming a sur-
face film over the fat globules, the lecithin coat-
ing prevents the casein micelles from adsorbing
onto the fat-water interface; the crosslinking
reactions are, therefore, limited,
so
leaving the
cheese to stretch and flow under stress.
Whether or not the use of recombined milk
has exaggerated the proposed interactions is
not clear, but a similar effect was reported by
Apostolopoulos,’3 who compared the stretch-
ability of mozzarella cheese manufactured by
a standard procedure with the properties of
mozzarella cheese made with homogenized
milk (17.2 MPa). In the case of the standard
cheese, the average stretchability was 53 cm
but, probably for the reasons given earlier,
homogenization reduced this figure to 27 cm.
Neither the ripening time during manufac-
ture nor time in storage affect significantly the
stretch values of mozzarella cheese,13 proba-
bly because any potential proteolytic activity
from residual coagulant
is
prevented by the
heat treatment of the curd (58-60°C). This
inactivation means that any degradation of
the paracasein is limited as, consequently, are
changes in the melting characteristics of the
cheese. The cooking of halloumi is likely to
have a similar effect, but the influence of
other aspects of processing might merit fur-
ther attention.
For example, Renda
et all6
reported that
the meltability of mozzarella cheese was
affected by the speed of mechanical mixer
screws used for stretching the curd during
manufacture. In particular, the highest screw
speed resulted in a cheese with lower moisture
and FDM contents, and these compositional
changes reduced the meltability values
obtained with the Schreiber Test. Processing
variables, such as the time and temperature
of pressing, that could affect the moisture
content of halloumi cheese could be equally
important, and this aspect of halloumi manu-
facture could merit further attention.
Sensory features of halloumi
The analysis of volatiles
of
halloumi and their
relationship with flavour has been rep~rted,’~
and a panel of
11
assessors used Quantitative
Descriptive Analysis to profile the flavour and
texture attributes
of
raw, fried and grilled hal-
loumi cheese. Principal Component Analysis
of the sensory data highlighted significant dif-
ferences between individual product-cooking
combinations, and specific analyses of the
flavour components differentiated between
sweet and sour sensations. The descriptors for
texture ranged from coarse and grainy to
milky and creamy, and the ‘milky, creamy
and fatty’ characters of halloumi cheese were
easily detected by assessors when the cheese
was heated.
The volatiles in halloumi cheese, as detected
by gas chromatography (headspace analysis)
have little in common with other brined
cheeses like feta or domiati, as the cooking of
the curd causes considerable losses. Indeed, the
main volatiles found in commercial halloumi
cheese were an unidentified lactone, probably
arising from the breakdown of fat, and some
alcohols, acids and phenols arising from the
degradation of amino acids. Partial Least
Square regression analysis was used to predict
mean sensory scores from the headspace data,
and a ‘minty’ flavour was predicted successful-
ly
from the presence of pulegone, ‘mint ter-
pene’ and carvone. The presence of a fatty
flavour was loosely predicted on the basis of
two compounds only-acetic acid and an
unidentified compound-while predictions of
creamy and milky associated with nonanone
and phenol were adequate.
Two points worth mentioning in this con-
text are: (i) the complete absence of starter
cultures and/or enzymes in both the tradition-
al and current cheesemaking practices apart,
of course, from the rennet which is used to
coagulate the milk and the natural enzymes
present in the milk; and (ii) traditionally,
ovine and/or caprine milks were used for the
manufacture of halloumi but nowadays the
large dairies use bovine milk almost exclu-
sively. This gradual transition towards bovine
milk has resulted from the low levels of pro-
duction of ovine and caprine milks, but the
change has had
an
impact on the sensory
quality of the cheese, since the ‘old’ aroma
and flavour have been lost.
The use of starter cultures to ripen pasteur-
ized milk prior to coagulation has been sug-
gested as a means to enhance the flavour
profile,” and a mixture of mesophilic bacteria,
eg,
Lactococcus lactis
subsp
lactis
and
Lactococcus lactis
subsp
cremoris,
or ther-
mophilic species like
Streptococcus tho-
mophilus
might be considered. Papademas
(unpublished data) has examined the employ-
ment of coccus: rod mixtures of thermophilic
microorganisms, such as
Strep thermophilus
and
Lactobacillus helveticus,
a combination
that shows both high proteolytic and acidify-
ing a~tivity.’~-’’ Whether this proposal will
provide halloumi from bovine milk with a
more intense flavour remains to be established.
Storage conditions and microbiology
It has been determined that halloumi cheese
can be stored successfully for a week at 20°C or
for 40 days at 4°C and during storage the salt
and moisture contents increase as the cheese
absorbed brine.22 The change in levels of
solu-
ble nitrogen was minimal during storage,
so
confirming that proteolytic activity is limited.
This latter observation is accounted for by the
high temperatures employed when the curd is
cooked, which eliminates most of the microor-
ganisms that could initiate proteolytic and/or
lipolytic action;
>
1
o3
colony forming units (cfu)
g-’ were reported for fresh halloumi.”
101
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1998
International Journal
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However, as shown in Table
3,
halloumi
cheese is by no means free from bacteria and
after only
4
days' storage at
20°C
the number
of microorganisms in the centre of a block of
cheese increased to >lo6 cfu
g-';
during cold
storage, it took around six weeks to reach the
same figure. Spore formers like
Bacillus
con-
tribute to these microflora, but thermoduric
species in the milk and contaminants from the
salt or mint leaves will elevate the numbers as
well. Yeasts are often isolated from halloumi
cheese, particularly on the surface of the indi-
vidual blocks, and the presence of postpasteur-
ization contaminants raises the question of
safety. For example, Gohil
et
aP3
found that
Listeria monocytogenes
could survive in the
brine used to transport feta cheese and,
although the numbers were probably low, the
result did highlight the need for high standards
of hygiene operating during cheese packaging.
The option of employing high salt concen-
trations to eradicate pathogens has been con-
sidered, but while
L
monocytogenes
may be
inhibited by sodium chloride concentrations
above lo%, Kaminarides and AnifantakisZ4
showed that around such levels flavour
becomes the major consideration. In addition,
the Regulations in Cyprus state that the max-
imum salt content in the retail cheese should
be
3%.
ALTERNATIVE
PROCEDURES
FOR
MANUFAC-
TURE
Use
of
milk
powders in the production
of
halloumi cheese
Since halloumi has become very popular in the
Middle East and fresh milk is not available in
any quantity, the use of reconstituted skim
milk powder (SMP) blended with anhydrous
milk fat (AMF) has been considered. Some of
the preliminary results have been discussed,
but modification of the properties of the milk
powder could offer a route for improvement.
In particular, Lelievre
et
aZ2'
modified skim
milk powder by changing its preheat treat-
ment from
68
to
72"C,
and examined powders
that were manufactured at different times
throughout the year, ie, spring, summer and
autumn. Additional batches of halloumi
cheese were made from process milks in
which high protein powders4erived from
ultrafiltered (UF) milk-were reconstituted to
give 16.8% protein; the use of UF skim milk
powders from milks fortified with calcium
chloride or acidified was explored as well.
The results showed that the degree of the
preheat treatment of the SMP powders had a
statistically significant effect on the physical
properties of the final cheeses, but not on
their chemical composition. In particular, low
heat treated powders performed better than
the high heat ones in producing a cheese with
the stretching and melting properties expected
of halloumi cheese, and O'Keefe and PhelanZ6
arrived at the same conclusion. As far as the
performance of the high protein powders was
concerned, the stretch and melt characteristics
were reasonable for cheeses made from both
normal
(3.5%
protein) and concentrated
(16.8% protein) recombined milks.
The differences in composition between the
autumn and summer powders was important,
and the better values for stretchability and
meltability were observed in halloumi cheese
made from skim milk powder manufactured
in the autumn. The physical properties of hal-
loumi cheese were also affected by the various
calcium levels in the UF powders. Thus the
stretching and melting properties were more
pronounced in cheeses made from milks
based on UF powders derived from acidified
milk than in the control cheeses or those
made from calcium fortified powders. The
low level of calcium in the acidified milk pow-
der was alleged to be responsible for the bet-
ter melt and flow characteristics, since the
formation of permanent calcium phosphate
crosslinkages, which prevent the cheese from
flowing on heating, was reduced. Overall, the
results seemed to demonstrate that halloumi
cheese with good physical properties can be
produced from recombined milks, as long as
the calciudSNFNS ratio is low.
Process and quality control
Robinson
et
a13
and Robinson'' reviewed a
number of studies in which particular atten-
tion was paid to increasing the output and
quality of halloumi cheese. The use of fresh
milks concentrated by ultrafiltration was con-
sidered to offer some advantages with respect
to plant requirements as, due to the retention
of the whey proteins, this approach would
increase the yield of the cheese; however, the
impact on quality would need careful con-
sideration. The suggested exposure of the
pressed curd to microwaves3 as an alternative
to the traditional cooking stage has been pro-
posed as a system that would allow for
an
increase in automation; the effect
of
a
microwave treatment on the sensory proper-
ties of the finished cheese does, however, need
further investigation. In addition, as the
procedure is not mentioned in the Cyprus
Standards for the manufacture of halloumi
102
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International Journal of Dairy Technology
cheese, the use of the procedure could cause
legal problems as far as the identity of the
cheese is concerned.
Some standard methods for the sampling
of
milk and milk products are included in the
Cyprus Standards, as are methods for the
chemical and microbiological analyses of the
same
it ern^.*^-^^
The compilation of such stan-
dards has proved to be valuable as far as the
drive to improve the quality of halloumi
cheese is concerned, but finding uniform
methods of analysis for the physical or
organoleptic properties of the product may be
more difficult.
Photis Papademas wishes to thank the Cyprus
Milk Industry Organization (CMIO) for
financial support, and Keses Dairy, Limassol,
Cyprus, for their helpful discussions.
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