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Skin Care with Herbal Exfoliants

April 2011

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Anna University ,BIT campus,Tiruchirappalli

Exfoliation is the process of removal of removing the old, dead skin cells that cling to the skin’s outermost surface. The two types of exfoliation are mechanical and chemical. People’s opportunities for seeking dermatological assistance for a myriad of conditions, including acne, rosacea, striae, photodamage, and skin cancers have increased in recent years. Chronological aging is a process of intrinsic or normal aging of the skin. Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light leads to photodamage of the skin, which is the leading cause of extrinsic aging, or alteration of the skin due to environmental exposure. Management options for photodamaged skin include alpha-hydroxy acids, antioxidants, antiandrogens, moisturizers and exfoliants. Many treatments are available to reverse the damage, but their efficacy remains to be proven and they may also produce unwanted side effects. Herbal Exfoliant is a cleansing formula and treatment mask that detoxifies the skin and stimulates its metabolism. It enhances absorption and retention of moisturizing agents and restores the skin’s own natural moisture factor. Skin exfoliation improves the quality and tone of skin by assisting in the removal of dead skin cells from the surface. Herbal Exfoliant produces soft, supple, re-energized skin and prevents premature skin aging.

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Received: 23 February, 2010. Accepted: 20 October, 2010. Research Note

Skin Care with Herbal Exfoliants

Nilani Packianathan1* • Ruckmani Kandasamy2

1 Department of Pharmacognosy, JSS College of Pharmacy, JSS University, Ootacamund, Nilgiris, Tamilnadu, India

2 Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Anna University Tiruchirapalli, Tamilnadu, India

Corresponding author: * p.nilani@js scpooty.org

ABSTRACT

Exfoliation is the process of removal of removing the old, dead skin cells that cling to the skin’s outermost surface. The two types of

exfoliation are mechanical and chemical. People’s opportunities for seeking dermatological assistance for a myriad of conditions,

including acne, rosacea, striae, photodamage, and skin cancers have increased in recent years. Chronological aging is a process of intrinsic

or normal aging of the skin. Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light leads to photodamage of the skin, which is the leading cause of

extrinsic aging, or alteration of the skin due to environmental exposure. Management options for photodamaged skin include alpha-

hydroxy acids, antioxidants, antiandrogens, moisturizers and exfoliants. Many treatments are available to reverse the damage, but their

efficacy remains to be proven and they may also produce unwanted side effects. Herbal Exfoliant is a cleansing formula and treatment

mask that detoxifies the skin and stimulates its metabolism. It enhances absorption and retention of moisturizing agents and restores the

skin’s own natural moisture factor. Skin exfoliation improves the quality and tone of skin by assisting in the removal of dead skin cells

from the surface. Herbal Exfoliant produces soft, supple, re-energized skin and prevents premature skin aging.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Keywords: antioxidant, desquamation, keratinocytes, melanocytes

INTRODUCTION

Human skin undergoes modification throughout the course

of life because of physiological and external stimuli. Both

the Intrinsic (chronological) and extrinsic (environmental)

overlap during a person’s lifetime and both are responsible

for dysfunction of the skin’s natural self-protection mecha-

nism and repair capability. Intrinsic aging involves genetic

components, while photoaging or environmental aging is

caused by exposure to unfavorable skin conditions during a

person’s lifetime. To maintain health and beauty as you age,

the skin requires supportive care. Herbal exfoliants (HEs)

alleviate age–related changes and neutralize environmental

attacks by removing dead skin cells from the epidermis,

exposing newly formed skin cells on the surface and stimu-

lating cell growth in the subepidermal layer. This shedding

of the outer dead cell layer also helps to unclog skin pores

and keeps skin clean (Dumas et al. 2008).

As new skin cells are generated, the external layer of

skin cells becomes dense and rigid and loses moisture. This

layer eventually detaches from the skin cells beneath allow-

ing newly formed cells to surface in a process called des-

quamation. Desquamation also eliminates damaged and

contaminated cells that carry body toxins, pollutants and

microorganisms from the environment. These dead skin

cells can take a long time to exfoliate naturally and this

leads to clogging of the skin pores, which in turn causes

skin congestion. The rate at which natural exfoliation takes

place depends on internal factors such as health, age, and

the amount of moisture in the skin, as well as on external

factors such as protective covering, temperature, and wea-

ther conditions (Panda 2001). HEs can help to remove these

dead cells.

SKIN TYPES BENEFITTING FROM EXFOLIATION

Aged and mature skin

In aged skin with a thin epidermis and atrophied dermis, the

fatty tissues of the hypodermis may also decrease. The

texture of the dermal tissue changes as the collagenous

fibers progressively organize in large bundles. Blood cir-

culation decreases in the skin’s microvessels, and sweat

production decreases due to a reduction in the number of

active sweat glands. Sebum production is lower and pig-

mentation changes occurs leading to age spots. In aging

skin the natural sloughing of older cells from the skin

becomes more difficult, causing a dull, thick skin with less

tone. Exfoliation with a formulation containing skin nut-

rients and moisturizers is especially effective on prema-

turely-aged and mature skin, as it stimulates natural cell

renewal (Ostacolo et al. 2007).

Acneic skin

Acneic skin produces five times more dead skin cells than

occur in other skin conditions and exfoliation can have

great benefits for acneic skin. Hydroxy acids are effective

in preventing dead skin cells from clogging hair follicles

and contributing to acne.

Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is a darkening of skin color caused by

either an increase in melanin or melanocytes, or from depo-

sition of a colored substance in the skin. Exfoliation helps

to shed these pigmented cells more quickly and lighten age

spots. Special ingredients in the exfoliant allow it to effec-

tively penetrate a hyper-pigmented area at its source (Asha-

wat et al. 2008).

Dehydration

In dehydrated skin, the lack of moisture leads to fractures in

the cellular barrier, leaving skin tight and stretched. Over-

moisturization leads to a dull, uneven skin tone. By apply-

ing an exfoliant, the dying skin cells are effectively re-

moved and moisturizing and hydrating ingredients can pen-

etrate deeper into skin to help ease dry skin conditions (Sahl

et al. 1994).

Photodamage

Exposure of the epidermis and dermis to UV radiation from

sunlight causes photodamage. UV radiation can induce

acute and chronic changes in the DNA, protein and lipid

building blocks. Acute effects include sunburn, photo

toxicity, photo-allergy, cutaneous degeneration and actinic

elastosis. Photodamaged skin appears thicker (actinic kera-

tosis) and less elastic due to hypertrophy of elastic tissues

and alterations in collagen fibers (Hawk 2001). Exfoliation

may help people with sun-damaged skin containing poten-

tially abnormal cells to eliminate these cells before they

become dangerous, and this may help prevent skin cancer.

Mechanism

Human skin is comprised of three layers, the epidermis, the

dermis, and the subcutaneous layer. Skin varies in com-

position and thickness throughout the body. The process of

exfoliation and skin cell renewal takes place in the epider-

mis, the outer layer, which is 0.5-1.0 mm thick. Skin con-

tains about 70% water, 25% protein and 2% lipids, with the

remaining 3% consisting of trace minerals, nucleic acids,

glycosoaminoglycans, proteoglycans and various other che-

micals.

The cells of the uppermost layer of the epidermis, the

stratum corneum or ‘horny layer’ comprise a protective

layer of continually shedding dead cells known as keratino-

cytes, (the primary type of epidermal cells), hardened pro-

teins known as keratins (protect against harmful substances),

and lipids. Fibroblasts are connective tissue cells found in

the dermis layer of the skin. These cells synthesize col-

lagen, elastin and other structural molecules, and their pro-

per functioning is crucial to overall skin health. After about

fifty divisions, fibroblasts undergo cellular senescence in

which they lose the ability to divide and their metabolic

activity decreases. They tend to enlarge and accumulate

lipofuscin, the pigment responsible for age spots (Hawk

2001).

The middle layer of the epidermis contains vital living

keratinocytes, or squamous cells, which do the main work

of protecting the body. The inner layer of the epidermis, the

basal layer, consists of basal cells, which continually divide

to form new keratinocytes. As they differentiate, they mig-

rate into the middle layer to perform their protective func-

tions. As they mature, keratinocytes lose water, flatten out

and move upward, eventually reaching the stratum corneum

where they are then shed, to be replaced by new cells

moving upward from the middle layer (Tadokoro et al.

2008).

Epidermal cells adhere to each other on the tops, sides

and bases of the cells via calcium-dependent desmosomes.

As the cells move upward from the deeper layers of the epi-

dermis to the outermost layers of the stratum corneum, the

desmosome attachments become weaker.

This weakening is accelerated by enzymes, found only

in skin and hair follicles that break the bonds of the desmo-

somes and free the cells to slough off (Hawk 2001).

While the exact mechanism is unknown, it is believed

that cells are programmed when they are young and resi-

ding in the lower layers of the epidermis. Each cell has an

internal clock that ensures that it is linked to other cells for

a certain period of time. When the clock runs down, cell

cohesion decreases and the cells slough off. Although the

mechanism controlling the activation process is not well

understood, the enzyme responsible for weakening the

bonds between cells is inactive in the skin until activated by

another enzyme. The complex process known as keratiniza-

tion commences with the birth of a new daughter cell in the

basal cell layer (stratum germinativum) and its progression

upward until it is shed as a stratum corneum corneocyte.

This normally takes about four weeks; however, it can take

as much as seventy-five days depending on age and the

condition of the skin. As expected, younger skin is more

efficient than aged skin at this process of desquamation,

which stimulates the growth of new cells at a deeper level

(Nina et al. 2009).

As we age, the glue-like intercellular cement holding

the cells together becomes denser, causing a build up in the

layers of cells; cell sloughing becomes more difficult resul-

ting in a skin that appears dull, thick and with less tone.

This may be exacerbated by environmental factors like ex-

posure to sunlight, hormonal influences (androgens, estro-

gens, and epidermal growth factor) and deficiencies in vari-

ous vitamins like A and D. With all of these influences af-

fecting the desquamation process, it is apparent why exfo-

liation is so important to the skin. Removing this buildup of

dead, damaged skin cells stimulates the regeneration of new

cells improving the skin’s appearance, feel and texture (Sahl

1994).

EXFOLIATION METHODS

Manual/mechanical skin exfoliation

Manual skin exfoliation refers to any type of topical skin

exfoliation that is applied to the skin manually with fingers

or applicator. It is suitable for normal skin. Mechanical ex-

foliation involves physically scrubbing the skin with a mild

abrasive such as micro-fiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation

sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apri-

cot kernels or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, or

pumice, or using abrasive sponges and brushes. Mechanical

friction with abrasives exfoliates the outer corneocytes that

comprise the stratum corneum layer and results will vary

depending on the amount of friction and the nature of the

abrasive used (Chattopadhyay 1998). As a mechanical pro-

cess, gentle exfoliation can be achieved with micro-bead

face scrubs that will remove the top layer of skin. A more

extreme level of exfoliation is provided by dermabrasion

which entails the use of a laser to remove upper layers of

skin. Prior to the advent of laser technology, micro-sanders

were used (under anesthesia) to aggressively abrade the

skin surface.

Chemical/herbal exfoliation

This type of exfoliation includes use of creams, lotions and

gels. Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicy-

lic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic

acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a der-

matologist, or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter

products (Ostacolo et al. 2007).

Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products

that contain alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxy

acids (BHAs) or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like

substance that holds the cells together allowing them to

slough off. This type of exfoliation is recommended for

people treating acne.

While the precise mechanism of action of hydroxy acids

is still open to debate, there is a general consensus that ex-

foliating the outermost layers of the stratum corneum (the

stratum disjunctum) results in improved skin texture, and a

reduction in fine lines and hyperpigmentation.

It is thought that AHAs primarily affect the skin by nor-

malizing cell turnover in the epidermis. This stimulates the

formation of normal healthy skin, sloughing off of dead

cells from the stratum corneum, a decreased formation of

dry scales on the skins surface and stimulation of the cell

cycle. While this is plausible, there are some researchers

who believe the mechanism of action for AHAs cannot be

tied solely to stimulation of the skin as measured by tradi-

tional cell renewal techniques. Studies on cell cohesion and

skin pH changes indicate that keratin bonds may be affected

and that low pH levels associated with active AHA solu-

tions may dissolve the desmosome protein linkages causing

a burst in skin exfoliation. It is often said that AHAs affect

the skin from the inside out because of the suggestion that

they influence coenocytes cohesion in the lower layers of

the stratum corneum. The result is a thinner stratum cor-

Skin care with herbal exfoliant. Nilani and Ruckmani

neum that is more flexible and compact, reflects more light

and overall gives the skin a more youthful appearance.

In recent years, retinol (vitamin A) has been included in

exfoliation formulas because the skin can convert retinol to

retinoic acid, a potent skin exfoliant and antiaging agent.

Retinol has been shown to reduce the visible signs of both

photoaging and normal chronological aging when used on a

daily basis (Banerjee et al. 2005).

Enzyme exfoliation

This type of exfoliation includes use of products such as

cleansers, pads, masks and powders. Plant enzymes are dif-

ferent from AHAs or BHAs because they work by dis-

solving the top layer of dead skin cells. The main plant en-

zymes used in skin exfoliation are papain from papaya,

bromelain from pineapple and an enzyme from pumpkin.

Enzymes exfoliators can be used as an alternative to acid

exfoliators and work well for people with sensitive skin

who cannot tolerate acid. They should also be used by per-

sons of darker skin tones and are generally recommended

for acne treatment. Papain and bromelain are proteolytic

enzymes that stimulate exfoliation by digesting intercorneo-

cyte cohesion and softening of the skin. Unlike AHAs their

activity is not pH dependent but is activated by water and

limited in the amount of exfoliation that can be achieved

(Ostacolo et al. 2007).

Recent studies on another enzyme, a protease from the

microorganism Bacillus subtilis, have demonstrated that an

enzyme extract is a beneficial keratolytic agent that helps

eliminate desquamating corneocytes when applied topically

(Singh et al. 2001).

HERBAL EXFOLIATION

In India many HEs have been used traditionally for genera-

tions. They have stood the test of time and are safe to use.

Luffa aegyptiaca (luffa)

This HE contains finely ground fibers and walnut shell

powder. It gently exfoliates dull lifeless skin cells without

being harsh or abrasive and allows new, healthy skin to ap-

pear (Wang et al. 2002).

Ahnfeltia concinna (algae) extract

This extract is isolated from phytoplankton and sea algae

(Mathieson et al. 1984) and is one of the ingredients in an

HE preparation that provides the skin with an easily ab-

sorbed source of nutrients and moisturizers.

Grapefruit seed extract

This extract together with essential oils boosts the immune

system and creates a purifying environment for the skin.

This helps oily, overactive skin to normalize itself (Sachs

1997).

Apricot shell (Prunus armeniaca seed powder)

Finely ground pieces of the apricot seed shell are used as a

gentle exfoliant in scrubs. The scrub combines the mois-

turizing benefits of the apricot extract with the exfoliating

properties of finely ground apricot seeds. This advanced

formula face and body scrub helps to exfoliate dead skin

cells and leave the skin feeling fresh and smooth (Lauri et

al. 1998).

Lemon oil (Citrus peel oil)

This is obtained from the peel of the fruit, and contains

citroflavonoids that affect vascular permeability and im-

prove circulation and tone of capillaries and veins. It is an

essential oil with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant pro-

perties that contains vitamin C and is also used as a natural

fragrance (Homnava et al. 1990).

Cucumber extract (Cucumis sativus fruit extract)

The juice of the fruit acts as a moisturizer, soothing and

tightening the skin, and also has anti-inflammatory proper-

ties. It nourishes and softens the skin and when used in a

scrub, helps to remove impurities, dead skin cells and dirt

by gently unclogging pores. Thus, helps the skin stay fresh,

healthy, clean, hydrated and blemish-free (Homnava et al.

1990).

Papaya extract (Carica papaya fruit extract)

One of the active enzymes in papaya, papain, has antimicro-

bial as well as exfoliant properties. Papaya extract exfoli-

ates the skin, but can also help reduce edema and promote

wound healing (Stahl et al. 2005).

Mung dal (Phaseolus mungo seed)

This traditional exfoliant is used widely in herbal cosmetol-

ogy, since it helps to remove dead skin cells, retain a

smooth skin texture and maintain healthy glowing skin

(Swami et al. 2004).

Pineapple extract (Ananas comosus fruit extract)

The extract of pineapple will promote skin elasticity while

removing damaged and dead cells from the skin. It also

helps to improve moisture and hydration of the skin and

produces a clear complexion. A variety of ingredients, in-

cluding enzymes such as bromelain found in pineapple are

responsible for this action. Bromelain also has anti-inflam-

matory properties (Bakhru 1994).

Rosehip seed powder (Rosa canina)

Finely and smoothly ground powder of rosehip seeds forms

a natural exfoliating medium. This powder provides gentle

removal of dead skin cells without causing injury to the

skin (Lauri et al. 1998).

Cranberry (Cotoneaster apiculatus)

The tocotrienols contained in cranberry are very nourishing

to skin and have a moisturizing effect. They have antioxi-

dant properties and help protect the skin from stress caused

by sunlight. The omega oils contained in cranberry help to

moisturize and strengthen the skin, while at the same time

reducing inflammation. Apart from nourishing the skin,

cranberry also helps to improve moisture retention and in-

crease skin smoothness and skin elasticity (Stahl et al.

2005).

Green tea (Camellia sinensis)

Extensive research has shown that this botanical extract not

only has amazing antioxidant and cell protective qualities,

but also protects the collagen by inhibiting collagenase. It is

easily absorbed by the skin and protects the DNA and cells

in general, which helps the skin fight inflammation that

may cause premature aging. It has excellent astringent qua-

lities and promotes the elasticity and firmness of the skin. It

protects the cells in the skin from premature cell death, due

to radiation or excessive free radicals (Kong et al. 2003).

Tree tomato (Cymphomandra betaceae)

This edible red fruit is widely used as a skin colorant by

native tribes. The rich content of flavonoids and pectin of

this fruit has an antioxidant and cleansing action, which en-

hances the texture, smoothness and glossy appearance of

the skin (Rodriguez et al. 1983).

DOs AND DON’Ts IN HERBAL EXFOLIATION

Before using any exfoliating products, they should be tested

on the skin to see if the type of exfoliation suits the indi-

vidual skin type. Rubbing any exfoliating products on the

face should be avoided. It loosens the facial skin and can

cause wrinkles. Dabbing is a safer way to apply and rinse

exfoliating products. Hot water should not be used directly

on the face. It can harm the skin and dries it out too quickly.

Lukewarm or cool water is recommended for rinsing the

face. The skin should be exfoliated in the evening. Exfolia-

tion of skin gives better results during summer than winter.

Exfoliating the area around the eyes should be avoided

since the skin is very thin and sensitive in this area. After

exfoliation a good moisturizer containing nutrients, vita-

mins and antioxidants should be used to supply the required

supplements to the skin lost in exfoliation.

Advantages of HEs

Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin

beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores,

keeps skin clean and helps reduce acne breakouts. There are

several reasons that exfoliation is good for the skin. Regular

exfoliation gives the skin a more radiant look and a

smoother feel. Over time, it can help to reduce the appear-

ance of fine lines and will contribute to the skin’s firmness

and tone. It increases the blood circulation in the skin, helps

to remove toxins, rids skin of dry, rough patches, and can

even help to break down and lessen the appearance of cel-

lulite. It also enhances the effects of daily moisturizing by

allowing the moisturizer to penetrate the skin more deeply

(Lauri et al. 1998).

HEs are beneficial in the following ways: Improves the

texture of the skin; Makes the skin healthy; Makes the skin

look more radiant; Reduces appearance of wrinkles and fine

lines; Prevents acne; Prevents aging of the skin; Promotes

collagen building; Clean clogged pores; Improve skin's

thickness; Reduces brown spots; Improve skin cell renewal;

Removes the dead skin layer and allows the active ingre-

dients in skin care products to reach the inner layers of the

skin to vitalize them; They are biodegradable.

CONCLUSION

The key to healthy skin is daily exfoliation and hydration.

The environment clogs the skin pores with dirt and toxins

and our internal body excretion mechanism also tries to get

rid of its toxic components of metabolism through the same

pores. This leads to build up of dead skin cells. Daily exfo-

liation with a gentle, creamy herbal scrub accelerates new

cell generation while decreasing the surface buildup of dead

skin cells. Every day the skin is exposed to harmful rays

from sunlight and attack by free-radicals. These daily as-

saults may intensify melanin formation and damage cells,

hence accelerating the process of skin darkening and aging.

The most serious form of skin cancer is caused by excessive

exposure to the sun (ultraviolet radiation) and herbal exfoli-

ation may help to prevent skin cancer. Skin cells that are

damaged are at greater risk of becoming abnormal and can-

cerous. Sun damage can also cause other skin problems to

develop such as premature skin aging and actinic keratoses.

Herbal skin exfoliant enriched with herbal extracts penet-

rate deep into the skin to nourish it and make it blemish-free

by shielding the skin from damage by environmental pol-

lution and preventing photo-damage such as discoloration

and hyper-pigmentation. Herbal skin exfoliation is an im-

portant part of general skin maintenance. It smoothes and

chemically balances the skin, unclogs pores and stimulates

fresh cell growth, reducing blemishes, discoloration and

wrinkles which helps the skin stays healthy clean, hydrated

and blemish-free. Apart from removing dead skin cells, a

gentle exfoliation of the skin will also positively help to

create a smoother and finer skin texture, as well as reduce

pore size when used over an extended period.

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Aug 2021

Many personal cleansing products contain microplastics threatening coastal habitats, deep sea, as well as freshwater lakes. Non-pollutant biomasses with natural abrasiveness are potential substitutes for scrub-type cosmetics. This study sought to explore the potential of applying crabwood seed bagasse from Amazonia as an exfoliating agent of skincare soaps. The raw feedstock was characterized by chemical composition and particle size distribution. The morphologies of the crabwood particles and commercial exfoliating agents were compared. Thermal pretreatments were carried out in an attempt to make the particles inert. It was verified that crabwood particles contain above 50% of non-structural organic components in their mass. The high heterogeneity of particle size allowed selecting portions with dimensions comparable to commercial products, between 0.3 and 0.4 mm. The rough surface of crabwood particles was similar to those of other natural plant exfoliating agents suitable for intense skin exfoliation. Thermal pretreatments only partially volatilized non-structural components. The release of oil traces, which contains mainly palmitic and oleic acids, led the pH of the water to an unacceptable level (≤ 5.0), discouraging the direct application of crabwood bagasse in the skin. Nevertheless, when added to non-ionic surfactant based-soaps, pH remains adequate for skincare (≈ 6.0). The smaller particles (average diameter of 0.3 mm) submitted to the most drastic thermal pretreatment, 140 °C for 48 h of exposure, resulted in liquid skincare soaps with better properties. The crabwood particles’ potential to be added as an exfoliating agent in skincare soaps was confirmed. Graphic Abstract

Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Face Scrub containing Coffea arabica Linn, Myristica fragrans, and Lens culinaris as an Antioxidant and Antiseptic Activity

Article

Full-text available

Jun 2022

The research aimed to produce an herbal facial scrub. The majority of times, the skin on the face is in regular contact with dirt, pollution, and other contaminants. The scrub comprises various natural components that are safe to use, have fewer adverse effects, and have antibacterial, anti-infective, antioxidant, anti-aging, and moisturizing characteristics. The primary ingredient in this scrub is coffee. Coffee contains a lot of antioxidant properties. In addition, coffee grounds have a different aroma and a coarse grain and can be used to remove dirt skin cells that have died. The scrub was made with a simple mixing procedure and a variety of materials, including coffee beans, nutmeg, masoor dal, corn starch, and coconut oil mixed in melted beeswax. Other ingredients such as glycerine, light liquid paraffin, stearic acid, tween 80, and a perfuming agent was added to this formulation with effective results.

Formulation of Liquid Soap Contains Cow's Milk from Middle Small Enterprise in Cimahi

Article

Full-text available

Feb 2022

Skin is one of the outermost body defenses which is often exposed to foreign objects. Cleaning the dirt on the skin is done using soap. Cow's milk contains protein and fat which is effective to moisturize and nourish the skin. This study aims to make liquid soap preparations from cow's milk that serves to increase moisture on the skin. The study began with the collection of cow's milks from small and medium businesses in the city of Cimahi and organoleptic characteristics testing. Then a series of liquid soap formulas were made containing 0, 5, 10 and 20% cow's milk. Liquid soap preparations obtained were evaluated including physical evaluation (organoleptic, pH, viscosity, and stability tests) and testing of respondents (testing the emollient power with a skin analyzer, preference test, and cleaning effectiveness). The data obtained were analyzed statistically using paired t-test. Physical evaluation results showed that the search for soap formula containing cow's milk was stable for 28 days storage. The test results of the respondents showed that the most preferred preparation is liquid soap containing 15% cow's milk with reasons for being comfortable, soft and not sticky to the skin. The results of the cleaning effectiveness test also showed liquid soap containing 15% cow's milk can clean the dirt and make up.Keywords: Cow milk, liquid soap, emollient

Development and Characterization of Emulsions Containing Ground Seeds of Passiflora Species as Biobased Exfoliating Agents

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2022

Ground seeds from three species of the genus Passiflora, P. ligularis, P. edulis Sims fo edulis, and P. mollissima, were obtained by extraction, drying, grinding, and sieving, and their physicochemical properties (morphology, hardness, and proximal analysis) were compared to those of commercial exfoliant seeds from passion fruit. Particle sizes between 0.5 and 1 mm were obtained, and their properties were similar to the commercial product except for the extractable material content that was higher. Subsequently, prototypes of an exfoliating cosmetic product were developed by using the ground seeds as the main active ingredient. Rheology characterization of samples enables to verify that the particles have minor effects on emulsion properties and that the emulsion is stable even after thermal treatment. In particular, the pH of the emulsion decreased when using the obtained ground seeds. This is consistent with the extraction and solvation of organic acids into the emulsion, in particular, alpha-hydroxy acids, which are present in high concentrations in Passiflora species. This indicates that the prepared emulsions could have a synergic chemical and physical exfoliating activity and could be used in cosmetic products.

In Vitro and In Vivo Study on Humans of Natural Compound Synergy as a Multifunctional Approach to Cellulite-Derived Skin Imperfections

Article

Full-text available

Jun 2020

Aim: The present study aimed to assess the efficacy of a nutraceutical ingredient, SelectSIEVE ® Rainbow, based on botanical extracts, in ameliorating cellulite-derived skin imperfections and microcirculation. The nutritional supplement contained a mixture of Oryza sativa (L.), Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck, Ananas comosus (L.) Merr, and Actinidia chinensis Planch; all ingredients were botanicals that can be used in food supplements. Results: In vitro studies showed the high capacity of the supplement to have an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hypolipidemic effect, accompanied by an interesting proteolytic activity. The randomized double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial, carried out on 60 women during an 8-week treatment period, confirmed the in vitro study results. SelectSIEVE ® Rainbow showed a whole-body shaping activity, with a reduction of the waist, hip, and tight circumference of 0.8, 0.65 and 0.72 cm, respectively. It also showed a reduction of subcutaneous fat mass of 1.24 mm and body weight, with an average of 0.7 kg and positive peaks of −2.9 kg. Skin health and appearance were also improved: +5.4% skin elasticity, +5.5% skin tonicity and +5.7% skin draining. Finally, the dermatological evaluation of the cellulite score and microcirculation showed an improvement in 57% and 60% of the subjects enrolled in the studies. Conclusions: This first study provides interesting inputs on the effectiveness of the nutraceutical complex standardized in polyphenols, anthocyanins and proteolytic enzymes to counteract cellulite blemishes and improve local microcirculation. The positive response encourages deeper studies and further investigation.

Formulation and Evaluation of Herbo-Mineral Facial Scrub

Article

Full-text available

May 2020

The main objective of present study was to prepare a herbo-mineral facial scrub. Majorly facial skin comes in direct contact of dirt, pollution, dust particles and having large number of dead cells. In order to remove the dead cells and make the skin healthy, cleaned and nourished, some facial preparations required. The prepared scrub contains various natural ingredients which are safer for use and having fewer side effects and also they possess antiseptic, anti-infective, antioxidant, anti-aging and humectant properties. The scrub was prepared by using simple mixing method using various ingredients such as poppy seeds, neem extract, tulsi extract, aloe vera gel, almond oil, mixed in carbopol 934, rest of ingredients such as glycerin, triethanolamine, preservatives and perfuming agent were also added to this preparation with homogeneous mixing. The formulated scrub was evaluated for various parameters such as physical appearance, color, texture, odor, pH, viscosity, irritability, washability, homogeneity, extrudability, spreadability and found fruitful results for all the parameter tested. Thus the prepared formulation can be used effectively as it shows good scrubbing properties and it can be used to make a healthy, clean and glowing skin. Keywords: Facial scrub, antiseptic, anti-aging, herbal, poppy seeds etc.

Effect of Bongi Me’e Liquid Soap Toward Staphylococcus Epidermidis

Article

Full-text available

Feb 2019

Acne or commonly referred as Acne Vulgaris is a chronic skin disease due to abnormalities of sebum production in sebaceous glands caused by Staphylococcus epidermis bacteria. Acne treatment is usually done by using antibiotics, both topical and oral like Clindamycin 1%. However, the long-term use of antibiotics might lead to resistant of Propionibacterium acne strains or immune to Clindamycin 1%. People in Bima, particulary in Wawo district have local wisdom, that is facial using Bongi Me’e which is a traditional scrubs made of rice, tamarind, and temu giring extract that officacious as antibacterial. The purpose of this study was to determine the effectiveness of Bongi Me’e liquid soap as the antibacterial against Staphylococcus epidermis. In this research, four soap formulas were formulated and tested using well diffusion method. Formula 1 (4 ml rice extract, 3 ml temu giring extract and 2 ml tamarind extract). Formula 2 ( 2 ml rice extract, 3 ml temu giring extract and 4 ml tamarind extract). Formula 3 (2 ml rice extract, 4 ml temu giring extract, and 3 ml tamarind extract). Formula 4 (4 ml rice extract, 2 ml temu giring extract, and 3 ml tamarind extract). The inhibitory zone test indicated that the highest diameter of inhibition zone obtained in the formula 1 of 29,3 mm, followed by the formula 2 of 28 mm, formula 4 of 26,6 mm, and formula 3 that has smallest inhibitory zone by 25 mm. So, the antibacterial Bongi Me’e liquid soap was effective to inhibit acne-cause bacteria Staphylococcus epidermis

Cosmetic Preparations and Plants Used in Cosmetic Preparations

Article

Jan 2020

Circulating endothelial progenitor cells: A new approach to anti-aging medicine?

Article

Full-text available

Dec 2009
J TRANSL MED

Endothelial dysfunction is associated with major causes of morbidity and mortality, as well as numerous age-related conditions. The possibility of preserving or even rejuvenating endothelial function offers a potent means of preventing/treating some of the most fearful aspects of aging such as loss of mental, cardiovascular, and sexual function. Endothelial precursor cells (EPC) provide a continual source of replenishment for damaged or senescent blood vessels. In this review we discuss the biological relevance of circulating EPC in a variety of pathologies in order to build the case that these cells act as an endogenous mechanism of regeneration. Factors controlling EPC mobilization, migration, and function, as well as therapeutic interventions based on mobilization of EPC will be reviewed. We conclude by discussing several clinically-relevant approaches to EPC mobilization and provide preliminary data on a food supplement, Stem-Kine, which enhanced EPC mobilization in human subjects.

Comparative Sun Protection Factor Determination of Fresh Aloe Vera Gel Vs Marketed Formulation

Article

Oct 2008
INDIAN J PHARM EDUC

The aim of this study was to evaluate the correlation between natural fresh (Aloe vera gel) and marketed aloe vera gel as sun protective agent. The in-vitro Sun Protective Factor of natural fresh gel from plant leaf and randomly selected marketed pure aloe vera gel is determined according to spectrophotometric method of Mansur et al. The results indicate that there was no more good correlation between the in-vitro SPFs values.

Composition of Australian foods. 31. Tropical and sub-tropical fruit

Article

Jan 1986

Effect of water and air content on the rheological properties of black gram batter

Article

Nov 2004
J FOOD ENG

Bori, a popular pulse based culinary item in the Indian sub-continent, is generally prepared from aerated paste (batter) of soaked black gram (Phaseolus mungo). Black gram batter was prepared with varied water contents (61.89–62.11%, 63.98–64.99%, 68.19–66.11%, 69.14–69.93%, 71.59–72.42% w/w) and air incorporation (14.06–14.23%, 15.03–15.14%, 16.11–16.19%, 17.07–17.16% and 18.07–18.17% v/v). The rheology of the batter was assessed at 22±2 °C using a co-axial rotational Brookfield Viscometer using a cylindrical spindle. The Herschel–Bulkley model adequately fitted the data (r2⩾0.976: p⩽0.05). Flow behaviour indices varied in the range from 0.321 to 0.485, which increased with the increase in air incorporation and water content in the batter. The Consistency index varied in the range from 80.28 to 18.54 Pasn, and decreased with increase in water content or increasing level of air incorporation in the batter. Density of the batter decreased (903–818 kg/m3) as the level of air incorporation or water addition to the batter increased. The spreadability of the batter was tested on a galvanized iron sheet by measuring the radial growth rate. This was directly proportional to the water content but inversely related to the air incorporation in the batter. The radial growth decreased linearly with increase in apparent viscosity of the batter (r2⩾0.810: p

Herbal Cosmetics & Ayurvedic Medicines (EOU)

Article

P. K. Chattopadhyay

The Complete Technology Book on Herbal Perfumes & Cosmetics

Article

Jan 2005

Hemanta Panda

Provitamin A Activity of Specialty Fruit Marketed in the United States

Article

Jun 1990

The provitamin A content (α-carotene, β-carotene and β-cryptoxanthin) was determined in 33 different specialty fruits that are primarily of tropical origin and common to the U.S. market. After saponification, carotenoids were extracted with hexane and quantitated by reverse-phase HPLC using a Zorbax ODS column and an isocratic solvent system of acetonitrile, methylene chloride + 0.001% triethylamine, and methanol (350:150:1). Recoveries, determined by standard addition before saponification, were in the range of 70–100% for the three carotenoids. Proximate analysis was also conducted. Variation in carotenoid content was noted at different sampling times and for different cultivars of some of the specialty fruit. Provitamin A activity reported as retinol equivalents varied from nondetectable levels in fruit such as atemoya to relatively high levels in tamarillo (208 ± 63 RE/ 100 g) and purple passion fruit (196 ± 13 RE/ 100 g). Since the fruits included in the study represent an expanding market, they could provide significant levels of vitamin A activity to U.S. consumers. This study provides information necessary to judge their contribution of vitamin A activity to the U.S. diet.

Histological variation of Japanese skin with aging

Article

Jun 2008

The extent of changes with aging depends largely on how much the skin is exposed to sunlight and also on the genetic disposition of the individual. There are thus two main processes, extrinsic aging because of environmental stress, and intrinsic genetically programmed aging [1]. Hence, the processes of aging depends on a person's ethnic origin and the part of the world in which they live.Methods The present study investigates the influence of age and exposure to sunlight on the facial skin of 31 healthy Japanese women, aged 20–78 years old, living in Osaka city. Skin samples were obtained during plastic surgery from the face, from areas exposed to varying intensities of sunlight (forehead, cheek, nose, upper eyelid). Samples were fixed in formalin and embedded in paraffin. Sections (5–7 μm) were cut and stained with hematoxylin–phloxyn–safran, orcein or Masson's trichrome. Others were immunostained for p63, β1-integrin, type IV collagen CD1a and AQP3. Statistical analysis of quantitative and qualitative parameters were performed by analysis of variance (anova) with linear regressions, and the chi-squared test.Results and discussionEpidermis and dermal-epidermal junction: histological organizationWe confirmed that the whole living epidermis becomes thinner with increasing age, with an average decrease of about 5 μm per decade. This thinning is mainly because of a significant reduction in the number of keratinocyte layers. The thinning of the epidermis and the reduction of the keratinocytes layers in Japanese skin do not seem to be reflected in the thickness of the stratum corneum, which appears to remain constant whatever the age in the sample studied.The epidermal papillary structures also became flatter with age, associated with an increase in the thickness of the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ). Thus, in addition to the loss of epidermal cells, the epidermis and dermis become less overlapped, so reducing the surface area for exchange between the two compartments. The DEJ also become thicker as Japanese ages and the expression of type IV collagen, the main constituent of the lamina densa and anchoring plaques is reduced in the most photoexposed skin areas. This accounts for the major changes in the function and molecular structure of DEJ components, as in aged Caucasian skin [2].Keratinocyte growth and differentiation –β1-integrin and p63There is no doubt that the rate of cell turnover decreases in the flat aged epidermis, as indicated by the smaller number of proliferative cells [3, 4]. This study focused on two key regulatory proteins. One was p63, that is involved in maintaining the proliferative potential of basal keratinocytes and blocking their calcium-induced differentiation [5]. The other was β1-integrin, an adhesion protein present in basal keratinocytes and linked to their clonogenic potential [6].We found p63-positive cells in the basal layer of the epidermis and in the suprabasal layers (Fig. 1a), in agreement with others [7]. The used pan anti-p63 antibody suggest that other isoforms of the protein in addition to the major ΔNp63α mainly expressed in the basal cells, could take part to other functions like differentiation in the suprabasal layers [5]. The great interindividual variation in the staining intensity for p63 in the samples studied made it impossible to detect significant changes in the number of p63-positive cells with age. Only an increase of p63 was observed in photoexposed areas compared to others within this case, a possible relation to the epidermal thickening.Figure 1. Immunostaining of Japanese facial skin showing AQP3 expression at the plasma membrane of keratinocytes throughout the living epidermis (a) and the age-related change in AQP3 (b).Download figure to PowerPointβ1-integrin was detected only in the basal keratinocytes, and the staining intensity varied from one segment of the basal layer to another. We evaluated the length of immune-labeled epidermis and the intensity of labeling in each fragment, using an arbitrary colorimetric scale (0–5). We observed a significant decrease in the intermediate intensities (equal to 2 only) with age in the zone least exposed to sunlight. This is consistent with the loss of adhesive properties of freshly isolated epidermal cells in aged skin [2] and the existence of different pools of basal keratinocytes [6]. It suggests that the effect of aging could affect particularly on the transit amplifying cells containing intermediate quantities of β1-integrin.Osmotic and water homeostasis – aquaporin-3In addition to the stratum corneum (SC) that limits transepidermal water loss, the osmotic equilibrium inside the epidermis and hydration is controlled by the aquaglyceroporins 3 (AQP3) [8, 9]. Immunostaining for AQP-3 confirmed the presence of the protein in the plasma membranes of keratinocytes throughout the epidermis, together with AQP-3 cytoplasmic expression of the basal layer cells (Fig. 1a). There was no immunostaining in the SC (Fig. 1a) to retain water in the epidermis via the tight junction proteins [10], so maintaining the water-lipid barrier within the SC. The immunostaining for AQP3 decreased significantly with the skin age (Fig. 1b), but there was no significant difference between areas exposed to sunlight and those not exposed. This suggests that there is an overall reduction in the natural hydration potential as Japanese facial epidermis ages.The immune system – epidermal CD1a-positive cellsEpidermal dendritic cells, mainly Langerhans cells, control the skin immune system. These cells are CD1a positive (CD1a+). Immunostaining showed a major population of highly dendritic cells throughout the epidermis of all the Japanese skin samples. It also showed that the areas most exposed to sunlight (cheeks, forehead and nose) had significantly more CD1a+ cells than less exposed areas (upper eyelid) (Fig. 2a). This confirms previous findings on the wrinkling of area of Caucasian facial skin after chronic exposure to UV light [11]. The number of CD1a+ cells in less exposed areas of skin increased significantly with donor age (Fig. 2b). This shows that chronological aging and exposure to sunlight give rise to an epidermis which cellular immune homeostasis is perturbed.Figure 2. Immunostaining for CD1a in Japanese facial skin: numbers of CD1a-positive (CD1a+) epidermal cells per mm of dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) in skin exposed to sunlight and skin from protected areas (a), and sun-protected area of facial skin from subjects of different ages (b).Download figure to PowerPoint

Carotenoid Composition and Vitamin-a Value of the Brasilian Fruit Cyphomandra-Betacea

Article

Dec 1983
FOOD CHEM

The carotenoid pigments of the fruit of the Tree Tomato Cyphomandra betacea were identified and quantified. β-carotene, β-cryptoxanthin, ζ-carotene, 5,6-monoepoxy-β-carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin were detected in both the pulp and the peel. The quantitative patterns of the pulp and the peel were similar, with cryptoxanthin and β-carotene predominating. The high average vitamin A value (2475 IU/100 g edible portion) is due to the principal carotenoids that have provitamin A activity.

Phycocolloid ecology of underutilized economic red algae

Article

Sep 1984

Carrageenan and agar are structural cell wall components of several red algae. Both are sulfated polysaccharides, which can form gels in milk or water-based solutions. Of the two, carrageenan has a greater ash content and requires somewhat higher concentrations to gel; it is used widely in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries (Levring et al. 1969). Agar is employed principally as a bacteriological culture medium in hospitals and laboratories, but also has a wide variety of other applications (Chapman 1970).

Skin Care with Herbal Exfoliants

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BIONAT- Euromed Conference, Cairo,Egypt. December 2009.

Skin Care with Herbal Exfoliants

Ruckmani Kandasamy,Nilani Packianathan (2009) Protect your skin from photodamage using herbal sunscr...