Book

Consumer Culture & Postmodernism

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Abstract

The First Edition of this contemporary classic can claim to have put ‘consumer culture’ on the map, certainly in relation to postmodernism. Updated throughout, this expanded new edition includes a fully revised preface that explores the developments in consumer culture since the First Edition. Among the most noteworthy areas discussed are the effect of global warming on consumption, the rise of the new rich, changes in the North/South divide and the new diversity of consumer culture. The result is a book that shakes the boundaries of debate, from one of the foremost writers on culture and postmodernism of the present day.
... Estas lógicas, las cuales vienen configurando el contexto de los clubes deportivos, tiende a "despolitizarlos", en el sentido que los alejan de los barrios, que las arenas sociales deportivas se vienen alejando de las zonas libres 15 (Archetti, 1985) que veníamos problematizando, en donde actualmente se acercan a la lógica del consumo, a las relaciones configuradas en torno al deseo y el placer, y a parámetros morales y estéticos particulares (Featherstone, 1991). Es así que estos proyectos aumentan su valor, de tal manera que provocan una distinción social en relación a otros formatos de clubes, los cuales son parte de la lógica del barrio y de la vida de las familias. ...
... Desde niños se busca una posibilidad de una trayectoria deportiva que logre hacer coincidir el ciclo competitivo con el ciclo de vida, lo que permite clasificar el mundo social en categorías de personas (Featherstone, 1991). Los cuales utilizan valoraciones, imágenes, signos y significados que permiten cubrir la proyección o los sueños familiares, y las fantasías y deseos de lograr el tan anhelado contrato profesional. ...
... Los cuales utilizan valoraciones, imágenes, signos y significados que permiten cubrir la proyección o los sueños familiares, y las fantasías y deseos de lograr el tan anhelado contrato profesional. Esta conceptualización permite entender las lógicas del consumo (comprendidas, en este caso particular, en relación a la elección de las familias de los clubes) a partir del predominio del valor de cambio (Featherstone, 1991), que posibilita visibilizar el espíritu emprendedor en un mismo nivel con el espíritu deportivo. En el sentido de la posibilidad de asumir un valor simbólico en los procesos formativos que buscan la lógica del rendimiento, del control corporal y de la recuperación de viejos valores deportivos que hacen a la vida en sociedad organizada. ...
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Este artículo propone indagar en el proceso de formación de futbolistas varones de Maldonado y sus posibles trayectorias para incorporarse a equipos de fútbol profesional a partir de la denominada “era Tabárez”. Se realizó un trabajo etnográfico que involucró observaciones participantes en entrenamientos de algunos equipos de fútbol del Departamento de Maldonado (Uruguay), entrevistas a entrenadores y análisis de fuentes periodísticas y escritas. En este sentido, se propone estudiar cómo en el proceso de formación deportiva de los futbolistas, en el cual intervienen múltiples variables entre las que se destacan la influencia de fuerzas históricas, sociales, económicas y culturales que prefiguran una determinada concepción del fútbol en Uruguay, vinculadas discursivamente con las nociones de alto rendimiento deportivo y con la idea de que los futbolistas son “proyectos familiares” que implican la posibilidad de recuperar a “viejos valores nacionales” y a la “salvación familiar”, que mediante una formación deportiva acorde, representarán y mantendrán el espíritu deportivo de un territorio y de la nación. Submissão: 14 ago. 2024 ⊶ Aceite: 16 out. 2024
... Fatores sociais, econômicos e culturais influenciam a maneira como os jovens vivenciam, por exemplo, a identidade ocupacional e as incertezas em relação ao futuro no mundo do trabalho. Além disso a renovação das perspectivas analíticas para a compreensão dos estilos de vida juvenis leva em conta as diferenças e particularidades entre os grupos e suas diversas afinidades culturais suas formas de autoexpressão, usos, práticas e formas de consumo distintos, refletidos em suas escolhas e interesses (Featherstone, 2007). ...
... A globalização cultural e o avanço das tecnologias de comunicação intensificaram o consumo audiovisual, resultando na hibridização de estilos de vida, símbolos e bens associados a eles. Consumir bens culturais se tornou constitutivo para certos estilos de vida e há uma forte componente visual (Featherstone, 2007). Para Marques e Campos (2017, p. 6), neste domínio, há "agência e criatividade, pois há opções e formas de 'bricolage' que não são meramente utilitárias, mas também simbólicas e que pretendem comunicar algo sobre quem somos e como vivemos". ...
... O consumo visual é uma das suposições levantadas pelos autores que discutem o consumo como uma prática não necessariamente lógica da vida cultural. Isto é, a prática sociossimbólica de consumir envolve o encontro com outros estilos de vida e, por isso, as interações podem ser frequentemente conflitantes quando seus agentes buscam inovar os referenciais culturais, inspirados no lado imaginário da vida e da experimentação imagética (Featherstone, 2007), através da produção de processos de identificação com mercadorias que desestabilizam as estruturas sociais tradicionais do Estado e dos mercados. ...
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Este artigo tem como objetivo discutir as políticas de visualidade e as práticas de consumo visual das juventudes ativistas em espaços políticos do consumo, exemplificados pelo ativismo canábico. Nosso enfoque está em um tipo de ativismo que cria repertórios criativos, expressões estilizadas e mobilizações em prol de várias causas sociais, indo além do acesso à planta e seus derivados para fins terapêuticos ou recreativos. A metodologia utiliza revisão de literatura e análise de imagens da rede social Instagram. Os resultados da pesquisa indicam que o ativismo canábico, através de uma variedade de expressões estéticas e agências criativas, expande a compreensão pública da cannabis, embora os conflitos sociais e identitários ainda persistam, conectando-se com novos públicos e redefinindo espaços urbanos e virtuais como palcos de expressão política e cultural.
... Kedaulatan diri seseorang kala menetapkan pola konsumsinya meneguhkan posisi individu yang signifikan sebagai subjek yang bertanggung jawab pada pembentukan identitas diri. Featherstone (1991) melalui kacamata teori budaya konsumen menjelaskan keadaan itu dikondisikan struktur pasar dan dimensi kulturalnya. Arnould & Thompson (2005) menerangkan struktur pasar menawarkan daya 'mistis' dan simbolis yang menempatkan konsumen agar merespons komoditas yang disediakan pasar lalu memaknainya sesuai dengan nilai dan kultur yang diyakini. ...
... Titik balik informan (dalam fase sensitization) dalam memikirkan ulang pola konsumsinya adalah bukti bagaimana konsumen berusaha keluar dari pengaruh pasar arus utama. Dalam konsep budaya konsumen (Arnould & Thompson, 2005;Larsen & Patterson, 2018;Featherstone, 1991) pasar adalah arena di mana konsumen dapat mengamini diskursus konsumsi dominan atau berupaya menghindarinya dan menciptakan makna baru dari komoditas yang disediakan pasar. Poin terakhir meneguhkan bahwa praktik konsumsi ialah upaya menciptakan identitas diri Lawler, (2021); Cherrier & Murray, (2007) lewat sumber daya yang dimiliki konsumen dan juga yang disediakan pasar Featherstone, (1991) dan pada akhirnya kita akan memilih untuk mengikuti arus pasar atau menjadi resistans (Arnould & Thompson, 2005). ...
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Di tatanan masyarakat kontemporer, aktivitas konsumsi hijau dalam gaya hidup nol sampah berimplikasi pada pembentukan identitas konsumen. Menurut teori budaya konsumen, hal ini disebabkan nilai simbolis dan nilai kultural dari aktivitas konsumsi. Artikel ini bertujuan menjelaskan konstruksi identitas konsumen hijau di Kota Bandung dalam penerapan gaya hidup nol sampah di kehidupan sehari-hari. Untuk memahami konstruksi tersebut, artikel ini menggunakan metode wawancara life story yang akan dianalisis berlandaskan konsep identitas naratif dan teori processual identity. Informan terdiri dari lima pelanggan Toko Organis YPBB—suatu toko curah yang berfokus pada edukasi prinsip nol sampah. Penelitian ini menemukan dua dimensi dalam proses konstruksi identitas konsumen hijau. Pertama adalah dimensi refleksi yang menjelaskan afirmasi diri sebagai bentuk peneguhan identitas yang ditempuh lewat aktivitas konsumsi hijau. Kedua adalah dimensi interaksi sosial yang menampilkan negosiasi identitas di arena sosial informan. Artikel ini berargumen bahwa pola konsumsi dalam gaya hidup dapat menegaskan identitas seseorang melalui apa yang orang lain persepsikan dan yang orang itu refleksikan tentang dirinya sendiri. In contemporary society, green consumption activities on zero waste lifestyle imply consumer identity construction. Based on consumer culture theory, it happens due to the symbolic and cultural values from the consumption act. This article aims to explain the construction of a green consumer identity in Bandung on zero waste lifestyle implemented in everyday life. This article uses life story interview method and then will be analyzed by narrative identity concept and processual identity theory. The informants consist of five YPBB Toko Organis customers—it is a bulk store where people can learn about the zero waste principle. This research finds two dimensions of the green consumer identity construction process. First, the reflection dimension explains self-affirmation as a form of identity assertion through green consumption activities. Second, the social interaction aspect which displays identity negotiation processes in one social arena. This article argues that consumption schemes in a lifestyle affirms one’s identity through what others perceive and what one reflects about oneself.
... Spotrebitelia si skrátka vyberajú produkty, služby a aktivity, ktoré definujú ich životný štýl. osvojovanie si určitého štýlu vyjadreného výberom oblečenia, jedla, nápojov, voľnočasových aktivít, spotrebných tovarov prekonáva hranice predtým pevne ohraničených statusových skupín (Featherstone 1991). Spočiatku bol tento spôsob budovania identity charakteristický hlavne pre skupiny mládeže a mladých ľudí do 30 rokov, neskôr (aj vďaka postupnému prechodu týchto skupín do vyšších vekových kategórií) preniká aj medzi staršie vekové skupiny (Bocock, 1993, 27-28;Featherstone 1991). ...
... osvojovanie si určitého štýlu vyjadreného výberom oblečenia, jedla, nápojov, voľnočasových aktivít, spotrebných tovarov prekonáva hranice predtým pevne ohraničených statusových skupín (Featherstone 1991). Spočiatku bol tento spôsob budovania identity charakteristický hlavne pre skupiny mládeže a mladých ľudí do 30 rokov, neskôr (aj vďaka postupnému prechodu týchto skupín do vyšších vekových kategórií) preniká aj medzi staršie vekové skupiny (Bocock, 1993, 27-28;Featherstone 1991). ...
... Put simply, unprecedentedly diverse supply enabled individuals to use consumption for distinction, to express both their collective identifications and their individual authenticity. These uses, previously endemic to fashion (Simmel, 1957), have expanded to nearly all forms of consumption (Baudrillard, 1998;Bourdieu, 1984;Featherstone, 1991). Cultural features that had used to characterize certain groups, from music to religion, offered themselves for choice as singular goods in global 'attractiveness markets', invigorating the economy through its culturization (Reckwitz, 2020). ...
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Choice has played a key role in late-modern economy, society, culture and politics, but recently predictive algorithms are decentring choice and replacing many of its instantiations, offering an alternative way to match individuals with information, cultural goods, and consumer products – and to govern people. This article has two contributions: first, it contextualizes the decentring of choice within the history of capitalism, showing how it emerged once psychological and economics knowledge transformed the meaning of choice from an economic engine into a problem (‘friction’ or ‘overload’). Second, it explores the wider significance and cultural-cum-political implications of this transformation. Algorithmic ‘individuation without choice’ challenges the role of choice in neoliberal subjectification. Choice is increasingly marginalized in everyday practice while retaining its role in justification (as predictions are construed as what actors would have chosen). As the decentring of choice expands from social media and consumption towards governance, it may pose a threat to democracy.
... Urban spaces and everyday life are increasingly subject to aestheticization. 3 Mike Featherstone (2007;, for example, argues that capitalism has created an entire sector dedicated to producing affect-laden images and messages that inundate everyday life with a "colorful" display of lifestyles, stylistic experimentation, and performative multiculturalism (Žižek 2008). Crucially, this aesthetic turn precludes any class-based political action, as it disperses collective identities into individualized modes of consumption and self-expression (Valente Aguiar 2011). ...
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This article examines the dynamics of gentrification within the intersections of creative industries, urban (re)development, and social exclusion, with a focus on Ljubljana, Slovenia. It investigates the transformation of the Rog factory and its surrounding area—from an industrial site to an autonomous squatter zone and, finally, to a creative hub. Central to our analysis is the sensory dimension of urban regeneration. We introduce the concept of sensory gentrification to articulate the changing distribution of the sensible. Our argument posits the aesthetic, affective and sensory transformations implicated in gentrification as more than mere spatial rearrangements. Instead, we assert that the spatial rearrangements produce corresponding forms of social subjectivity. Through this lens, the paper shows how the gentrification of Rog recuperated the surplus politics of the squatting community—its anti-hegemonic political ideas and practices—incorporating them into the surplus value production of the newly established creative center. Keywords: gentrification, the senses, aestheticization, social exclusion, urban squatting, creative industries, Ljubljana, Rog
... The culture of consumption emerges as a critical component of the socioeconomic structure in modern societies. This culture transcends the realm of mere economic activity, transforming consumption into an ideological system that influences various domains, from individuals' daily lives to the construction of social status (Featherstone, 2007). At this juncture, graphic design stands out as a pivotal tool that shapes the visual language of consumer culture and reproduces societal meanings. ...
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This study examines how consumer culture is reproduced through advertising visuals in the context of graphic design. Three different advertisements were selected, and the graphic design elements used in these visuals (such as color, composition, and symbols) were analyzed in terms of their impact on consumer perception. Employing the semiotic analysis method, the study reveals that advertising visuals are not merely aesthetic tools but also carriers of ideological and social meanings. The findings indicate that graphic design elements effectively convey the ideological messages of consumer culture and establish profound symbolic connections between brands and consumers. Additionally, the role of graphic design has become more prominent in the digital era, evolving into an interactive and multi-layered structure within modern consumer culture. This study underscores the critical function of graphic design as a communication tool that not only creates visual aesthetics but also shapes social values and consumer behaviors. In conclusion, advertising visuals are evaluated as strategic tools in the reproduction of consumer culture, contributing to theoretical and applied studies in this field.
... Foi nesse contexto que alguns autores (García Canclini, 2015;Kellner, 2003) propuseram a emergência de uma identidade "pós-moderna", que seria menos resistente a mudanças, menos estável e estaria baseada numa relação mais livre do indivíduo com sua própria imagem por meio do consumo, do lazer, de referenciais midiáticos e do jogo com aparências e papéis sociais. Ainda que o debate sobre a pós-modernidade tenha se enfraquecido (Featherstone, 2007), consideramos que essa concepção sobre a identidade pode ser útil para abordar as representações de si, em plataformas de redes sociais, relacionadas com a ativação de arquétipos. Como observamos nos vídeos da categoria Narrativa da transformação, a transformação identitária que os arquétipos alegadamente viabilizam é narrada e registrada no TikTok por meio de mudanças na aparência -mudança no estilo de roupa, uso de maquiagens, poses mais provocativas. ...
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Cunhado originalmente pelo psicanalista Carl Jung, o conceito de arquétipo tem sido apropriado por coaches e criadores de conteúdos relacionados ao mercado esotérico e de autoajuda para vender cursos, consultorias e produtos midiáticos com foco em desenvolvimento pessoal. Em passos simples, se ensina como ativar arquétipos que, segundo se acredita, podem influenciar nosso modo de ser e de agir, favorecendo a obtenção de ganhos pessoais e profissionais. Neste artigo, temos como objetivo entender como tais profissionais promovem, por meio da apropriação comercial do conceito de arquétipo, rituais de consumo e formas de apresentação do self em plataformas de redes sociais. Para isso, realizamos um estudo exploratório com base em 21 vídeos a respeito de arquétipos publicados no TikTok. Observamos que o fenômeno inspira representações de si nas plataformas e combina duas disposições: a promessa de que podemos ser nossa melhor versão e de que podemos ser tudo o que quisermos.
... Bu bağlamda, dijital medya ekosisteminde yenilik fetişizmi, tüketim kültürünün dinamikleriyle birleşerek bireylerin kimlik inşası, sosyal hiyerarşi ve aidiyet duygularını şekillendiren önemli bir unsur haline gelmiştir (Featherstone, 1991). Yeniliğin sembolik gücü, bireylerin tüketim pratiklerini yönlendiren psikolojik ve sosyolojik faktörlerle desteklenmektedir. ...
... Bu bağlamda, dijital medya ekosisteminde yenilik fetişizmi, tüketim kültürünün dinamikleriyle birleşerek bireylerin kimlik inşası, sosyal hiyerarşi ve aidiyet duygularını şekillendiren önemli bir unsur haline gelmiştir (Featherstone, 1991). Yeniliğin sembolik gücü, bireylerin tüketim pratiklerini yönlendiren psikolojik ve sosyolojik faktörlerle desteklenmektedir. ...
... In this context, Mike Featherstone, in his study of consumer culture, emphasizes the need to reshape traditions and cultural structures to produce new symbolic products. In this process, cultural experts transform the relationship between symbols and values by transferring meaning (Featherstone, 2007). Similarly, Erving Goffman, through his dramaturgical approach, addresses how individuals reconstruct social roles through performance. ...
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Digitalization stands out as an important factor transforming social structures and forms of communication in today's society. Social media offers a socio-political ground for participatory democracy and an alternative to traditional media in a globalizing world. Recently, Israel's attack on Gaza and the massive genocide in the region have caused a great resonance on the internet and social media. The aim of this study is to examine the censorship mechanisms applied by social media platforms during Israel's attacks on Gaza. The main question of the research is how social media censorship mechanisms affect freedom of expression and digital activism. As a result of the research, it has been observed that since the first days of the war, especially on Facebook and Instagram, posts were removed biasedly, and the accounts of people who frequently posted such posts were slowed down, and their posts were algorithmically blocked from being seen. As a result of this process, users have tried to overcome this situation with visuals such as watermelons and olives, symbols associated with Gaza. Contradicting the idea that alternative new media creates a libertarian space, it created great disappointment and damaged the trust of users. The importance of the research lies in its demonstration of the effects of censorship on freedom of expression and digital activism in social media. The study will examine social media censorship in Gaza in detail through using a literature review methodology and discussing relevant figures. As a result, we will present examples of the efforts of social media users who are algorithmically censored, which we call symbolic subversion, to overcome this situation with symbols.
... To be sure, young people are known globally for their desire and consumption of global commodities (Featherstone 1991;Nyamnjoh 2005). In this paper, we are interested in looking at the ways young Pentecostal men in Zimbabwe have responded to the dual pressures of socioeconomic uncertainty and expectations of conspicuous consumption. ...
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Pentecostal charismatic churches that preach prosperity gospel in Zimbabwe have attracted a youthful membership. In the context of a deeply uncertain economic future, young Pentecostal Christians devise performativity strategies for optimizing their chances of converting prosperity gospel into material prosperity. These strategies include sartorial elegance in adorning counterfeit suits, the performance of obedience, and the use of social media technologies. The picture that emerges is a complex and at times contradictory one in which the potential realization of upward spiritual and social mobility rests, ultimately, on the transformative and volatile nature of value. Data for this project was collected in Harare through ethnographic research and interviews over a year-long period.
... Sob esta linha de pensamento, as cidades, motivadas pelas dinâmicas recentes do capitalismo "tardio" ou "avançado", ficaram marcadas pela estetização do quotidiano, por uma cultura de diversão e de consumo conspícuo, ostentatório, de inflação e de banalização (Lopes, 2002). Assim, a cidade pós-moderna tornou-se num local de hiperconsumo experiencial, cada vez mais mercantilizada (Lipovetsky & Charles, 2004;Zukin, 1995), um centro de consumo de entretenimento, sobrecarregado de sinais e de imagens que tornaram todos os elementos em objetos de interesse, ou seja, um objeto para o "olhar turístico" (Featherstone, 2007). ...
... Theoretical approaches converge on the idea of transforming historic cities into centres of consumption and entertainment, of sampling the intangible. They, therefore, become space-times of experiential hyper-consumption (Lipovetsky & Charles, 2004;Zukin, 1995) overloaded with signs and images that increasingly transform elements within a city into mere objects of interest to the "tourist gaze" (Featherstone, 2007;Urry, 2002). In effect, what is being suggested is that tourism, the great metaphor for postmodernity (Bauman, 1998(Bauman, /1999, has appropriated and capitalised on the uniqueness, identity, memory and authenticity of space and time -the historical, the social, lived experience and life experienced. ...
Chapter
This text explores some angles of touristic time in Porto and how it affects the passage of time in the city and the time experienced by its residents. This short journey back in time through Porto, an attempt is made to describe and reflect upon three main eras: that of a city enchanted by tourism, a time marked by fantasy, growth, and wonder; the decline of the city brought about by a drastic decrease in the number of tourists due 104 THE TOURIST ERA IN THE CITY OF PORTO... to constraints imposed by the COVID-19 pandemic; and the city on hold, waiting for the pandemic to blow over and desperately awaiting the return of the hustle and bustle of tourism. The text discusses some of the implications of touristic time and how it can be less favourable to time experienced by people and employed by social and economic projects aiming for rapid tourist conversions. This conclusion is a common thread through studies conducted in tourism, leading to discussions about the (un)sustain-ability of voracious tourism, made even more pressing by the pandemic and the resulting future starting to materialise in terms of experiential tourism mobility and interaction.
... In addition to these perspectives, Featherstone [1999] and Böhme [2016: 142] expand the discussion of civic pride by exploring the role of everyday aesthetics in urban environments. Featherstone argues that the blurred line between reality and imagery in modern society has led to the rise of "life aesthetics," where people seek to integrate aesthetic sensibility into daily life. ...
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In recent years, the role of civic pride and aesthetic experiences in fostering sustainable regional development has become a focus of research, particularly in communities facing economic and social challenges. This study examines how residents’ daily aesthetic experiences impact their sense of civic pride to support effective regional revitalization strategies. Focusing on Xiuwu County in China and Chishang Township in Taiwan—two regions with shared cultural roots but distinct administrative histories. This research uses questionnaire surveys as the primary method to analyze the influence of aesthetic experiences on civic pride. Factor analysis identified “community involvement” and “regional identity” as essential factors of civic pride in both areas, though the factors shaping aesthetic experiences differed; Xiuwu’s civic pride is strongly linked to natural landscapes and local customs, while Chishang’s is closely associated with local identity and self-expression. Regression analysis further proves a significant contribution of daily aesthetic experiences to civic pride, underscoring the importance of incorporating residents’ aesthetic engagement in regional revitalization policies. These findings suggest that aligning policy with residents’ aesthetic values and local identity can foster community engagement and strengthen sustainable development, offering valuable guidance for creating culturally resonant, community-focused strategies.
... Within the context of "consumer culture" (Featherstone 1991) we live in, promotional discourse and advertising play a fundamental role. The intention of both advertising and promoting is to "hook" consumers and, to a certain extent, manipulate them (Jarowska 2020): this can be achieved through specific linguistic features that grab audiences' attention, such as slogans, neologisms, use of forms of engagement (especially the personal pronoun you), and repetitions (Musté, Stuart, and Botella 2015). ...
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The number of women in Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics (STEM) is still limited compared to men, and one of the reasons for this is the lack of women’s sense of inclusion and belonging within engineering contexts. It has been argued that such a sense of inclusion and belonging might be developed by exposing girls to STEM with specific activities, games, and toys from a young age. This case study explores how the US toy manufacturer GoldieBlox Inc. addresses and includes young children, specifically girls, in the promotion of their products. GoldieBlox is a company that specifically targets girls to encourage their interest in STEM subjects, namely science, technology, and mathematics. Through a close reading and a qualitative analysis of the company’s webpages, this paper explores the links between consumerism, gender, belonging, and promotional language. Under the linguistic lens of dialogicity, I analyse how girls are addressed and included in STEM through the promotion of specific products.
... In this regard, the act of continually updating one's style through the acquisition of trendy clothing reflects not only a desire for self-expression, but also a deeper engagement with the postmodern ethos of fluidity and fragmentation (Bardhi & Eckhardt, 2017). In liquid societies, where fixed identities are often eschewed in favour of more malleable and transient self-conceptions, fashion becomes a crucial medium through which individuals navigate and construct their identities (Featherstone, 2007). This process is further reinforced by the proliferation of fast fashion brands that cater to the ever-changing tastes and preferences of consumers, enabling them to continually reinvent themselves. ...
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Fashion, which has always played an important role in the economy and culture of many countries, is a sector with a high environmental impact, responsible for significant water consumption and the production of a large amount of waste. In particular, fast fashion, a business model based on offering consumers new, cheap and trendy products, seems to be one of the main drivers of the constant quest for innovation in fashion products, with a consequent increase in the environmental and social impacts of this policy. Among the companies in the sector, the SHEIN platform, founded in China in 2008 under the name Zzko, has become a real competitor to global industry giants such as Inditex and H&M, leading to a business model that can be defined as ultra-fast fashion. The article presents the results of a qualitative research project aimed at understanding the consumption model, purchasing motivations and possible concerns about sustainability of young female Italian consumers who use the platform. To this end, 30 semi-structured interviews were conducted with a sample of university students, who are SHEIN customers, to identify their main purchasing motivations, their consumption habits, and the importance they attribute to sustainability issues. The results show that the main drivers for the platform success are the low price of the clothes and the wide variety of styles available. Students also proved to be quite sensitive to the issue of the company's unsustainable production practices, although this awareness does not automatically translate into a decision to stop buying the brand's products.
... Sport, the gym, and weight training environments are spaces where individuals can engage in self-work and refine their bodies and muscularity as part of the construction and enactment of subcultural identities (andreasson, 2014;coquet et al. 2016;Monaghan, 1999;Smith Maguire, 2008). Modifying, maintaining, or improving body aesthetics and performance through dieting, going to the gym, and weight training represent 'body work' (coffey, 2015;gimlin, 2007;Shilling, 2011), which becomes part of a body project (Featherstone, 1991;giddens, 1991;Shilling, 2013). Body projects themselves, however, are not an end point, but instead they are an ongoing process of identity work that secures 'a sense of who one is and who one wants to be' (Orbach, 2009, p. 237). ...
Article
The current study explored muscularity and weight training’s role as capital in people’s identities across various contexts. Eleven weight trainers from two gyms were interviewed (three females, eight males) about their desires for muscularity and the role it played in their lives. Thematic narrative analysis identified narratives that framed the individuals’ muscular desires, behaviours, and importance. Muscularity formed a versatile resource—identity capital—that was a key part of the individuals’ body projects. These body projects and identity capital facilitated the individuals’ identity performances in a range of contexts (e.g. occupation, gender). Three narratives emerged (individualist, illusionist, and promoter) that highlighted the intertwined tangible (e.g. leanness and strength) and intangible (e.g. control and self-empowerment) attributes associated with muscularity and weight training that facilitated successful identity performances. These narratives achieved goals of self-empowerment (Individualist), self-protection (Illusionist), or self-advertisement (Promoter) which enabled successful identity performances. The current findings advance existing literature by suggesting muscularity is a versatile form of identity capital that can facilitate multiple identities (e.g. occupation, gender) and contexts. The potential benefit to an individuals’ sense of self also highlights the positive effect of muscularity weight training as a tool for self-promotion and personal growth.
... The nature and depth of the transformation can be debated, but the transformation cannot be denied (Huyssen 1991, 355). Even the word postmodernity, which is used to describe this transformation, can be considered evidence of the transformation, because despite the meaning of the concept of definition, there are as many definitions of postmodernity as there are postmodernists (Featherstone 1991). More interestingly, the term postmodernity refers to a relational position. ...
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Popülizm dünyanın üçte birinde iktidar olduğu bir altın çağı yaşıyor. Popülist figürlerin sayısı ve artan oy oranlarıyla uyumlu bir şekilde popülizm başlığı altındaki akademik çalışmalar gün geçtikçe büyüyor. Bugüne kadar "demokrasinin hayaleti" "kültürel geri dönüş" ve "küreselleşmenin kaybedenleri" gibi ana akım tezlerin yanında finanstan felsefeye kadar uzanan geniş bir yelpazede üretilen fikirler bu boştan çıkarmayı anlamlandırmayı deniyor. Ancak popülizmin küresel cazibesi gizemini koruyor çünkü hiçbir girişim hem çağdaş hem de tarihsel popülist vakaları kucaklamayı başaramıyor, ayakkabı Cindirella'ya uymuyor. Bu tez üç aşamalı bir argümantasyon ile bu gediği kapatmayı hedefliyor. İlk olarak siyasal iletişimi merkeze alan bir popülizm anlayışından beslenerek popülist figürlerin iz bıraktığı tüm tarihsel ufukları kapsayan bir okuma öneriyor. İkinci aşamada bu tarihsel duraklarda sıklıkla tekrar eden iletişim pratiklerin varlığına işaret ederek popülizmi başarıya götüren asıl aktörü -iletişim stratejilerini- analiz ediyor. Son olarak ortaya çıkan popülist iletişim repertuarının post modern dönüşümün hayatın her alanında yarattığı fırsat yapılarıyla kusursuza yakın bir birliktelik kurduğunu gözler önüne sererek bugünlerde Peru'da Filipinler'e dünyanın her yerinden birer birer fırlayan popülist hareketlerin var oluşuna yekpare bir anlam sağlıyor. Çağdaş popülizm ne bir hayaleti andırıyor ne de sarhoş bir misafire benziyor. Popülist figürlerin post modern hanemizin yeni paydaşları olduğu gerçeği, popülizmi kabul etmek, dönüştürmek ve yenmek için yeni yollara ihtiyaç olduğunu ve inkâr edilemez kılıyor. Anahtar Kelimeler: Popülizm, Siyasal iletişim, Postmodernite, Fırsat Yapıları In the new decade, populism is experiencing a golden age when it is in power in a third of the world. In line with the number of populist figures and the increasing share of the vote, academic studies under the heading of populism are growing day by day. To date, mainstream theses such as "the ghost of democracy", "the cultural backlash" and "the losers of globalization", as well as ideas from finance to philosophy, have attempted to make sense of this hollowing out, but the global appeal of populism remains a mystery because no attempt to embrace both contemporary and historical populist phenomena – shoe of Cinderella. In this thesis I aim to close this gap with a three-stage argumentation. First, I propose a reading that encompasses all the historical horizons left by populist figures by drawing on an understanding of populism centered on political communication. In the second stage, I point to the existence of communication practices that recur frequently at these historical eras and analyzes the main actor that drives populism to success - communication strategies. Finally, by revealing the near-perfect coexistence of the populist communication repertoire with the opportunity structures created by the postmodern transformation in all spheres of life, I provide a unified meaning for the existence of populist movements that are now popping up all over the world from Americas to Far-East. Contemporary populism neither resembles a ghost nor a drunken guest. The fact that populist figures are the new stakeholders in our postmodern household makes it undeniable that new ways to acknowledge, transform and defeat populism are needed. Keywords: Populism, Political communication, Postmodernity, Opportunity Structures
... In dit opzicht is materiële consumptie een belangrijker element van smaken en levensstijlen geworden. Er wordt dan ook vaak beweerd dat we tegenwoordig leven in een consumer culture (Featherstone 1991;Slater 1997;Berger 2004). Materiële consumptie wordt, vooral sinds de jaren negentig, steeds meer bestudeerd vanuit een cultureel of psychologisch perspectief en minder als een fenomeen dat als een min of meer directe afspiegeling van beschikbare hulpbronnen (of klasseverschillen) moet worden gezien (Campbell 1995). ...
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Market studies is a newly emerging field dedicated to understanding the origins, core concepts, theories and methods currently being used and developed to examine markets in the making. Providing a unique overview that introduces, positions and develops this highly fertile area of research, Market Studies is the first book to consolidate its themes, tools and methods in a single, comprehensive volume. Topics covered include: market organization and design; performativity in and around markets; valuation; market places and spaces; methods that may be utilized in studying markets; the field's relation to adjacent disciplines; the future of markets. Deploying a sensitivity for the socio-material constitution of markets, the authors put market practices at the centre of inquiry and offer insights into the future and potential impact of market studies research. The contemporary, practical and interdisciplinary approach is strengthened by multiple examples of original empirical research into markets.
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Market studies is a newly emerging field dedicated to understanding the origins, core concepts, theories and methods currently being used and developed to examine markets in the making. Providing a unique overview that introduces, positions and develops this highly fertile area of research, Market Studies is the first book to consolidate its themes, tools and methods in a single, comprehensive volume. Topics covered include: market organization and design; performativity in and around markets; valuation; market places and spaces; methods that may be utilized in studying markets; the field's relation to adjacent disciplines; the future of markets. Deploying a sensitivity for the socio-material constitution of markets, the authors put market practices at the centre of inquiry and offer insights into the future and potential impact of market studies research. The contemporary, practical and interdisciplinary approach is strengthened by multiple examples of original empirical research into markets.
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In this chapter, we use the empirical findings of a qualitative sociological research on middle-class consumption and consumerism in Greece before, during, and after the economic crisis (2009/2010–2018). By adopting the bottom-up form of inquiry methodology, we analyze the research subjects’ repertoires of consumer action and discourse, in which their ambivalent attitude towards fashion is highlighted. This attitude seems to move between individualized “conformity” to what is promoted (both by the mainstream fashion system and by users and “creative cultural entrepreneurs” of social media), stylistic preferences and their “creative” appropriation by the subjects. The coexistence of the attitude of “individualized conformity” and “creative appropriation” indicates how the subjects, through consumer practices, seek to construct the self as a skillful chooser, that is, to constitute themselves as worthy subjects, capable of personal, successful choices, and again to prove themselves as “competent consumers”, subjects capable of playing successfully in the field of fashion and consumption.
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The Alice effectContradiction is but an appearance and probably the most flattering one at that. I speak and have nothing to say.
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Few topics in political sociology have received as much attention as the nature and politics of the new middle class. Among Marxists the class position of salaried mental workers has been an issue of controversy for nearly a century. Concern with this question can be traced back at least as far as the revisionism debate of the 1890s. It was a major focus in Marxist analyses of fascism in the 1930s and today remains one of the most hotly debated issues within the Western socialist and communist parties. In non-Marxist circles the rise of the new middle class has inspired no less fascination. From the technocratic prophesies of Thorstein Veblen and James Burnham to the “new little man” of C. Wright Mills’s White Collar to the post-industrial theories of Daniel Bell and Alvin Gouldner, each generation of social theorists has based its vision of the emerging social order on the rediscovery or reinterpretation of this class. In the words of one recent commentator, “an entire history of political sociology could be written on the theme of the new middle classes. Whether in the guise of the ‘managerial revolution,’ ‘white collar,’ the ‘new working class,’ or the ‘new petite bourgeoisie,’ the emergence of intermediate strata in advanced industrial societies has been rediscovered more often than the wheel.”1