Volker Schöffl

Volker Schöffl
Sozialstiftung Bamberg/Klinikum Bamberg · Zentrum Interdisziplinäre Sportmedizin

MD, PhD, MHBA, FAWM

About

380
Publications
176,435
Reads
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5,847
Citations
Additional affiliations
March 2016 - present
University of Colorado School of Medicine, Denver, USA
Position
  • Professor (Assistant)
July 2008 - present
Leeds Beckett University
Position
  • Professor
June 2008 - present
Sozialstiftung Bamberg/Klinikum Bamberg
Position
  • Leitender Arzt

Publications

Publications (380)
Chapter
Primary periphyseal stress injuries (PPSIs) to the hand and fingers are rare, and most are reported as digital physeal stress injuries to the fingers among adolescent rock climbers. There are over 200 cases, and lately therapeutic and diagnostic guidelines have been published. Early diagnosis is important for a good outcome, and most of these injur...
Article
Periphyseal stress injuries (PPSIs) in young rock climbers are gaining recognition due to the surge in popularity of the sport. These injuries, occurring near the growth plates of fingers, pose diagnostic challenges due to their subtle presentation and potential long-term complications if left untreated. This review emphasizes the importance of rad...
Article
The rise in popularity of competitive and recreational rock climbing, particularly following its inclusion in the 2021 Summer Olympics, has led to a corresponding increase in rock climbing-related injuries. Due to the sport's unique biomechanical demands, it often presents injuries not commonly seen in other sports. Additionally, although some inju...
Article
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Background/Objectives: Rock climbing is becoming more popular, leading to an increased focus on diagnosing and treating related injuries. Finger pulley and flexor tendon injuries are common among climbers, with the A2 pulley being the most frequently affected. High-resolution ultrasound (US) is the preferred method for detecting pulley injuries. Th...
Article
Primary periphyseal stress injuries (PPSI) of the hand and fingers are a rare condition overall but are most commonly seen in adolescent rock climbers and is the most common sport-specific injury in young climbers. Early diagnosis and treatment are crucial for a good treatment outcome and to avoid chronic sport-related injury. The aim of the study...
Article
Hintergrund: Primäre periphysäre Stressverletzungen (PPSI) an Hand und Fingern sind eine insgesamt seltene Erkrankung, treten aber v. a. im Klettersport sehr häufig auf. Hierbei stellen sie die häufigsten sportartspezifischen Beschwerden bei jugendlichen Kletterern dar. Wichtig für die erfolgreiche Therapie und zur Vermeidung eines Sportschadens si...
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Introduction: Competition ice climbing has developed into a semi-professional sport. Nevertheless, scientific data on the injury profile and incidence are rare. Objectives: To evaluate the causes, diagnoses and incidence of acute and overuse injuries in elite ice climbers during training and competition for better prevention. Methods: Competitors i...
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Background: Via ferrata (VF) climbing is an increasingly popular mountain activity in the European Alps. The purpose of this study was to determine the nature of injuries incurred by VF climbers and to understand the extent of their First Aid (FA) knowledge and training. Materials and methods: A questionnaire-based cohort study was performed at two...
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Background: The effect of sleeping positions during acclimatization to high altitude on Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) is unknown. We tested whether sleeping with the upper body raised by 5° reduces prevalence and severity of symptoms of AMS as well as of elevated pulmonary artery systolic pressure (PASP) val...
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Centuries ago, climbing pioneers began exploring mountains and high peaks. With the introduction of indoor climbing centers, climbing as an activity has evolved into a sport. The 2024 Olympics in Paris will feature individual climbing competitions in bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing (1). New climbing gyms are opening every year in ever...
Article
Helicopter rescue operations in the mountains or at high altitude are well-known as strenuous tasks often associated with some risk. However, there is no standardized procedure for preventive checkups of rescue personnel by occupational care professionals. Therefore, the Medical Commission of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation...
Article
In recent years, professional and non-professional bouldering have seen a fundamental change in movement patterns towards complex movement sequences. This is associated with increased demands on the musculoskeletal system, especially the lower extremities, which can lead to new injury patterns. In the course of our clinical work, we have already se...
Article
Zusammenfassung Hintergrund Die iliakale Endofibrose (IE) ist eine seltene arterielle Erkrankung bei Ausdauerathleten, insbesondere Radrennfahrern und Triathleten. Die Diagnostik gilt als Herausforderung, die Latenz vom Beginn erster Symptome bis zur Diagnosestellung beträgt oft mehrere Jahre. An diagnostischen Möglichkeiten sind die Bestimmung des...
Article
Background Acute and chronic injuries to the wrist are among the most common sport-related complaints of climbing athletes but have not been extensively evaluated in this population. Therefore, it is important to categorize climbing injuries to the wrist, analyze risk factors, and assess treatment outcomes. Purpose To evaluate the distribution, ou...
Article
The annular pulley ligaments of the fingers are one of the most injured anatomical structures in those who participate in climbing. Despite this, there is a paucity of guidance clearly describing the rehabilitation and physical preparation parameters to return to sport following such injuries. The foundation of effective rehabilitation is the judic...
Article
Helicopter rescue operations in the mountains or at high altitude are well-known as strenuous tasks often associated with some risk. However, there is no standardized procedure for preventive checkups of rescue personnel by occupational care professionals. Therefore, the Medical Commission of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation...
Article
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BJSM Blog infographic https://blogs.bmj.com/bjsm/2023/09/08/when-to-be-concerned-about-finger-pain-in-an-adolescent-climber/
Preprint
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Background: The popularity of climbing via ferratas (VF) in the European Alps has increased a lot. We have analysed the pattern of injuries from accidents, which have occurred on VF, and First Aid (FA) knowledge from the persons on such alpine routes. The aim was to create specific FA courses for those who climb VF. Material and Methods: Incidences...
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UIAA Medical Commission recommendations for mountaineers, hill-walkers, trekkers, and rock and ice climbers with diabetes. High Alt Med Biol. 24: 110-126.-The object of this advice article is not only to give the diabetic mountaineer general guidance but also to inform his or her medical team of practical aspects of care that may not be standard fo...
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Introduction: The A2 pulley tear is the most common injury in rock climbing. Whereas complete A2 pulley ruptures have been extensively researched, studies focused on partial A2 pulley ruptures are lacking. A2 pulleys rupture distally to proximally. High-resolution ultrasound imaging is considered the gold-standard tool for diagnosis and the most re...
Article
Introduction: Traumatic shoulder dislocations rank among the most common shoulder injuries in climbers, with rising numbers over the last years. The objective of this study was to analyze the outcome following traumatic first-time shoulder dislocation and subsequent surgical treatment in this population. Methods: In a retrospective study, climbe...
Article
The COVID-19 (coronavirus disease 2019) pandemic forces athletes to perform their workout at home with alternative training methods. Exercise resistance bands, often used for this purpose, can cause damage when they recoil or tear. Potentially resulting injuries include bruises, head injuries, lacerations, facial fractures and eye injuries. The fol...
Article
Ski mountaineering (skimo) has been accepted as a new sport for the 2026 Milan-Cortina Olympics. The equipment used in this competitive ski mountaineering varies from leisure ski mountaineering equipment mainly in one point: the minimal weight. At the elite athlete level, skimo demands both maximal endurance performance and a high-intensity anaerob...
Article
Objective: This is the first study to evaluate sport-related injuries in competitive Paraclimbing athletes with the aim of creating a medical database for future research on injury prevention. Design: Descriptive epidemiology study. Data collection in two parts. First part: Online survey (n = 81). Second part: Three competitions (n = 273) of the...
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The primary aim of our feasibility reporting was to define physiological differences in trail running (TR) athletes due to different uphill locomotion patterns, uphill running versus uphill walking. In this context, a feasibility analysis of TR athletes’ cardiopulmonary exercise testing (CPET) data, which were obtained in summer 2020 at the accompa...
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Background: High-altitude tourist trekking continues to grow in popularity on the Everest Trek in Nepal. We examined which pre-existing cardiovascular and health conditions these global trekkers had and what health issues they encountered during the trek, be it exacerbations of pre-existing conditions, or new acute ones. Method: Trekkers (n = 35...
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Background: Trekking to high-altitude locations presents inherent health-related hazards, many of which can managed with specific first aid (FA) training. This study evaluates the trip preparation, FA knowledge, and FA self-assessment of trekkers (organized by tour operators vs. individually planned tours). Data obtained shall be used for specific...
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Twelve world elite Biathlon (Bia), ten Nordic Cross Country (NCC) and ten ski-mountaineering (Ski-Mo) athletes were evaluated for pronounced echocardiographic physiological cardiac remodeling as a primary aim of our descriptive preliminary report. In this context, sports-related cardiac remodeling was analyzed by performing two-dimensional echocard...
Article
The worldwide rise in popularity of climbing and development of climbing as a competitive sport is reflected by its debut at the 2021 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo. Digital primary periphyseal stress injuries in adolescent climbers may pose a significant risk to long-term skeletal health. The aim of this article is to critically review research on...
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Eleven world elite ski-mountaineering (Ski-Mo) athletes were evaluated for pronounced echocardiographic physiological remodeling as the primary aim of our feasibility speckle tracking study. In this context, sports-related cardiac remodeling was analyzed by performing two-dimensional echocardiography, including speckle tracking analysis of the left...
Article
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Portable hyperbaric chambers are a therapeutic option for altitude disease in the mountains. By an increase of the oxygen partial pressure the patient's symptoms ameliorate significantly. Portable hyperbaric chambers may be used as 'stand alone therapy' as well as in combination with other therapeutic options. Here we present the recommendation how...
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Elite competitive sport climbers exhibit a high strength-to-weight ratio and are reported in the literature to be lighter and leaner than their athletic counterparts. Current research regarding nutrition among climbers is sparse but suggests that they may be at high risk for low energy availability and Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). T...
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Nine ski mountaineering (Ski-Mo), ten Nordic-cross country (NCC), and twelve world elite biathlon (Bia) athletes were evaluated for cardiopulmonary exercise test (CPET) performance and pronounced echocardiographic physiological cardiac remodeling as a primary aim of our descriptive preliminary report. In this context, a multicenter retrospective an...
Chapter
Stress on the PIP and DIP joints in sport climbers is considered to be very high. Radiography shows adaptive stress reactions, e.g., cortical hypertrophy and broadened joint bases. Degenerative changes of the finger joints can be found in two-thirds of the cases. “Mini-osteophytes” and calcification of the joint capsule and collateral ligaments wit...
Chapter
For a profound understanding of finger and hand injuries in climbing, a detailed analysis of the specific anatomy of the hand and fingers and their biomechanics is important. The most important anatomical part in climbing is the functional unit of the finger flexor tendons and their pulleys. The main function of the finger flexor pulley system is t...
Chapter
There are more than 20 conditions in the differential diagnosis of finger pain in climbers. Accurate diagnosis demands a thorough clinical examination. Single flexor pulley ruptures receive conservative therapy, whereas multiple ruptures often require surgical reconstruction. In chronic tenosynovitis and capsulitis (articular synovitis), local ster...
Article
Full-text available
Nine Ski mountaineering (Ski-Mo), ten Nordic-Cross Country (NCC) and twelve world elite biathlon (Bia) athletes were evaluated for cardiopulmonary exercise test (CPET) performance as the primary aim of our descriptive preliminary report. A multicenter retrospective analysis of CPET data was performed in 31 elite winter sports athletes, which were o...
Chapter
Most injuries from falls in rock climbing result in pathologies of the feet and ankle. These are often standard foot injuries such as strains and sprains, ankle fractures and talus, or calcaneus fractures. Parallel to the late boom in indoor bouldering, we are seeing an increase in incidence of such accidents, since many falls onto the feet occur i...
Chapter
With the growing enthusiasm from people of all ages for rock climbing and bouldering, adaptions and medical conditions of the older athlete continue to become increasingly important. This chapter therefore focuses on demographics, distribution, and severity for the older rock climbing athlete. Until now, only two studies have focused on injuries in...
Chapter
Back pain and suffering are probably the most common and widespread orthopedic diseases in the general population. It has not yet been extensively studied whether and to what extent sport climbers suffer more or less from back pain and back diseases than a comparable normal population or whether sport climbing even has a prophylactic value with reg...
Chapter
As climbing consists of power and endurance aspects, it represents an ideal activity for children and adolescents. In addition to promoting the entire muscular system, it advances cognitive and mental function. However, the climbers need to be introduced to climbing stepwise according to their capabilities. Their development and individual responsi...
Article
Background Closed finger flexor tendon pulley injuries occur most frequently in rock climbing but also during other heavy finger strength work or exercises. While single pulley injuries receive a conservative therapy, multiple pulley injuries often require a surgical repair, as otherwise they will lead to contracture and loss of range of motion and...
Article
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Background Overuse injuries are common in sporting children and adolescents. These injuries are a particular concern when they involve the epiphyseal–physeal–metaphyseal (EPM) complex given their potential to disturb skeletal growth. Specifically, the limits of mechanical tolerance of the EPM complex to repetitive stress may be exceeded by the inte...
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Stress injuries involving the epiphyseal–physeal–metaphyseal complex affecting the extremities of child and adolescent athletes were first described in the early 1950s. Initially observed in Little League baseball players, these injuries are now known to affect skeletally immature athletes in a variety of sports that involve high-impact repetitive...
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Introduction We analyzed data of 27 professional basketball players to prove cardiac remodeling referring echocardiographic parameters, cardiopulmonary exercise testing (CPET), and 12-lead electrocardiogram (ECG) analyses. The aim of our study was to present different characteristics in the athletes, on the one hand signs of a high vagal tone in th...
Article
Background Although climbing is an increasingly popular sport, there is a lack of scientific evaluation of suitable training methods for climbers, especially with a view to prevention and rehabilitation. A specific rehabilitation program, Adjunct Compensatory Training (ACT), has recently been presented, but it has not been evaluated scientifically...
Chapter
Injuries in the area of the elbow represent the fourth most common entity in climbing, after finger, shoulder, and hand injuries (e.g., lateral and medial epicondylitis humeri, brachialis, biceps, and triceps muscle tendinopathies). There are also more rare injuries, such as distal biceps tendon rupture and other pathologies, which can be difficult...
Chapter
Climbing belongs to the sport disciplines in which low body weight represents an advantage. Many athletes therefore use at least one unhealthy way of controlling their weight. The consequence is relative energy deficiency in sport or RED-S with possible long-term complications like dental caries, osteoporosis, renal insufficiency, anemia, and recog...
Chapter
With the professionalization of the sport and the first-time inclusion in the Olympic Games program, the risk of injury and overuse damage in competitive athletes grows, both in adults and in adolescents. In particular, more attention should be paid to training and competition in childhood and adolescence, and specific anatomical conditions and ris...
Chapter
Shoulder injuries are the second most common pathologies in rock climbing after finger injuries. SLAP lesions (superior labrum anterior to posterior) play an especially essential role.Furthermore, the frequency of pathologies of the rotator cuff, the long head of the biceps tendon, impingement symptoms, and injuries due to a shoulder dislocation ha...
Chapter
Overuse damage to the wrist, metacarpus, and distal forearm are among the most common sport-related complaints of climbing athletes. Acute injuries in this region of the body are relatively rare and usually occur when falling to the ground (bouldering) or when colliding directly with a wall (rope climbing). In recent years, pain syndromes and overs...
Chapter
Injuries and overuse damage to the lower extremities have recently become more frequent in climbing and bouldering. Even though this increase is largely caused by acute injuries, especially around the knee joint, a variety of different pathologies must be considered and recognized. Femoroacetabular impingement (FAI) is a major cause of hip and groi...
Chapter
Taping of the hand and fingers is an important tool in climbing during therapy and rehabilitation of various injuries. Correct implementation of these taping methods is essential, and a differentiation between prophylactic and therapeutic taping is necessary. Preventative (protective) taping is used against skin abrasions and injuries in crack clim...
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Sports epidemiology is the study of the determinants and distribution of injury. The classification of climbing activity enables researchers to evaluate the risk of injury associated with a particular type of climbing behavior and to profile the risk of injury associated in engaging in different forms of climbing activity.For example, the inherent...
Chapter
Conducting yearly team examinations and serving as a medical officer at climbing competitions are central elements in taking care of competitive climbers. The team examination plays an important role in early injury detection and is an opportunity to establish a trusting relationship so that the athletes approach the team physician openly with ques...
Article
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While the epiphyseal stress fracture of the finger's middle phalanx is a known sport-specific injury occurring only in adolescent climbers, and in other locations it's rare, no femoral neck stress fracture (FNSF) in sports climbing has yet been reported. An experienced female sport climber (37y, 160 cm, 45 kg, BMI 17.5) suffered from pain in the le...
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Objectives Physical activity in children and adolescents has positive effects on cardiopulmonary function in this age group as well as later in life. As poor cardiopulmonary function is associated with higher mortality and morbidity, increasing physical activity especially in children needs to become a priority. Trampoline jumping is widely appreci...
Article
Background Finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries are the most frequent sport-specific injuries in adolescent climbers. Definitive diagnostic and therapeutic guidelines are pending. Purpose To evaluate a diagnostic-therapeutic algorithm for finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries in adolescent climbers. Study Design Case series; Le...
Article
Zusammenfassung Die zügige und korrekte Diagnostik von Überlastungsverletzungen im Bereich der Hand erfordert neben einer genauen Anamneseerhebung und klinischen Untersuchung oft weitere bildgebende Untersuchungen. Hierbei hat die Sonographie einen hohen Stellenwert und ist in einigen Fragestellungen der Kernspintomographie sogar deutlich überlegen...
Poster
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Background While rock climbing injuries have been well investigated this is not the case for ice climbing and its various disciplines. Since extreme body positions are normal in extreme ice climbing specific injury patterns may be expected (fig. 1-3). We investigated the participants of the Wold Championship in Saas Fee to assess data about acute o...
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Background: Ski mountaineering is a competitive sport that has gained popularity during the last years. As most competitions are held in altitudes between 1500 m and 3500 m, a considerable amount of training occurs at various hypobaric hypoxia degrees. It was establishing a sport-specific cardiopulmonary exercise protocol using standard ski mountai...
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Objectives To evaluate whether there is an increased risk for noise-induced hearing loss at high altitude rsp. in hypobaric hypoxia. Methods Thirteen volunteers got standard audiometry at 125, 250, 500, 750, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000, 6000, and 8000 Hz before and after 10 min of white noise at 90 dB. The system was calibrated for the respective...
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Safe water is still a major problem for travellers in many countries worldwide. In the last decade several new technical developments were made and more data exist about traditional procedures to produce safe water. This update includes such data with special regard to UV-C and held devices and SODIS.
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There is extensive knowledge about uphill running on a treadmill, although paucity regarding the influence of uphill trail running on exercise capacity in runners. The purpose of this study was to compare an uphill field test with a treadmill test with 1% inclination especially considering cardiopulmonary exercise variables. The difference in those...
Article
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Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these protocols was superior. We prospectively analyzed 30 intermediat...
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p> Introduction: The Borg Scale for perceived exertion is well established in science and sport to keep an appropriate level of workload or to rate physical strain. Although it is also often used at moderate and high altitude, it was never validated for hypoxic conditions. Since pulse rate and minute breathing volume at rest are increased at altitu...
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Introduction Bouldering has become a sport of growing interest, but little prospective evidence exists about injury proportions and patterns. The purpose of this study was to prospectively evaluate the cause of injuries sustained during indoor bouldering, proportion of affected body location, and injury severity. Methods Proportions and patterns o...
Article
Finger flexor pulley system injuries are the most common overuse injury in rock climbers. These injuries occur rarely outside of rock climbing, owing to the sport’s unique biomechanical demands on the finger. As rock climbing continues to grow and earn recognition as a mainstream sport, an understanding of how to diagnose and treat these injuries a...
Article
Background: Digital media have found their way into almost all areas of daily life. The aim of this study was to analyse the extent to which injured athletes use online media to gather information on sports injuries or on how to prevent them. Material and methods: Between 07-2017 and 12-2019, both recreational and competitive climbing athletes w...
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Introduction: Fellow trekkers are often the first responders to their comrades in remote settings. Not everyone undertakes First Aid (FA) training when travelling to remote settings away from comprehensive healthcare, whether travelling independently or in a group. The syllabus of standard urbanised FA courses does not fully cover the needs of such...
Article
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Introduction: All the research investigating the cardiopulmonary capacity in climbers is focused on predictors for climbing performance. The effects of climbing on the cardiovascular system in adolescents climbing at an elite level (national team) have not been evaluated.Material and methods: Retrospective analysis of the cardiopulmonary exercise t...
Article
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Background: Trekking in Nepal is popular and generally safe. However preventable trekking injuries and deaths are often the result of poor risk managementand lack of skills-i.e. acute mountain sickness (AMS) and specific First Aid (FA). Shlim and Gallie's reviews in 1992 and 2004 of trekking deaths here found a fivefold higher risk for fatal outcom...