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Publications
Publications (108)
The Vaccarès Lagoon System, located in the central part of the Rhône Delta (France), is a complex shallow coastal lagoon, exposed to a typical Mediterranean climate and a specific hydrological regime affected by man-controlled exchanges with the sea and agricultural drainage channels. In this article, we report the results obtained by a series of m...
The present paper is specifically focused on enclosed or semi-enclosed basins where the wind is the dominant driver of water surface tilting, leading to the so-called wind tide contributing to water levels rise. Wind-induced free surface tilting is studied using the 1-D steady form of the depth-averaged shallow water (Saint-Venant) momentum equatio...
This lecture aims to give an overview of water waves and their propagation in inhomogeneous media. Effects of varying bathymetries, varying currents, or structures including porous media are then considered. After some generalities on water waves, governing equations for regular plane waves for the study of wave scattering including reflection, ref...
Wave scattering over a sinusoidal bottom in the presence of a vertically sheared current is investigated experimentally and compared with a modified-mild slope model taking into account a linear vertical shear. Waves were generated in a flume without or with an opposing sheared current and propagated over a patch of 10 sinusoidal bars before dissip...
The aim of the study is to understand the wind effect on mean water level variation in semi-enclosed shallow basins. The studied physical phenomenon is nearly steady water surface tilting due to wind stress, the so-called wind tide (Platzman (1963)). During strong wind conditions, wind tides can have significant consequences on low-lying areas such...
There is growing interest for water-wave flows through arrangements of cylinders with application to the performance of porous marine structures and environmental flows in coastal vegetation. For specific few cases experimental data are available in the literature concerning the modification of the dispersion equation for waves through a dense arra...
Rivers solid discharge represents a substantial environmental issue, especially for the coastal marine environment. Unlike continental climate rivers, Mediterranean rivers show large discharge variability linked to rainfall, runoff and groundwater discharge, and can be temporary dry. Solid yields are difficult to predict due to variable source of f...
This data paper presents: (1) the liquid and solid discharge characteristics of the Las River, an urban Mediterranean stream flowing to the Bay of Toulon (south of France), and (2) the water height of the main karst springs supplying the Las River. We assessed the river's discharge with hydrological observations and we explored floods characteristi...
This paper describes the hydrodynamic regimes reached over barrier reefs during extreme wave events. The study is based on a combined approach relying, on one hand, on an extensive in-situ experiment over the Ouano reef-lagoon system, New Caledonia and, on the other hand, on wave-resolving numerical modeling.
A dense network of instruments has been deployed within harbors along the Mediterranean coast, in the Toulon Metropole area, between the Hyères islands and the Sanary Bay in the framework of the observation network HTM-NET. Each station is equipped with two piezometric sensors, the first immersed and the second emerged, which allows the calculation...
This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of o...
The purpose of this research work is to study the diffraction of surface gravity waves propagating through rectangular porous medium in three dimensions. The considered porous structure consists in dense arrays of surface piercing vertical cylinders. Experiments for different regular wave conditions have been carried out, especially for three wave...
The purpose of this research work is to study the diffraction of surface gravity waves propagating through rectangular porous medium in three dimensions. The considered porous structure consists of dense arrays of surface piercing vertical cylinders. Experiments for different regular wave conditions have been carried out, especially for three-wave...
The Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster that occurred on March 11, 2011, was caused by the Tōhoku tsunami, which was itself triggered by the devastating 9.0 Mw moment magnitude earthquake. This study investigates spatial and temporal changes of the suspended particulate matter (SPM) content in the North-Eastern part of Japan (Pacific Ocean) using a...
Extended mild-slope models (MMSs) are examined for predicting the characteristics of normally incident waves propagating over sinusoidal bottom topography in the presence of opposing shearing currents. It is shown that MMSs are able to provide quite good predictions in the case of Bragg scattering of waves over rippled bathymetry without a current,...
In this work, integral matching method is used for the numerical study of water wave scattering by arrays of surface-piercing structures. Such a method, already used for many years for rectangular breakwaters, is applied to structures of various shapes, including arrays of vertical cylinders, for which the contour of vertical boundaries is discreti...
A coupled numerical scheme, based on modal expansions and boundary integral representations, is developed for treating propagation and scattering by dense arrays of impenetrable cylinders inside a waveguide. Numerical results are presented and discussed concerning reflection and transmission, as well as the wave details both inside and outside the...
This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically sheared current and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic field campaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season. The overall...
A coupled-mode model is developed for treating the wave–current–seabed interaction problem, with application to wave scattering by non-homogeneous, sheared current with linear vertical velocity profile, over general bottom topography. The wave potential is represented by a series of local vertical modes containing the propagating and evanescent mod...
The purpose of this research work is to study the effect of specific surface s, the fluid–solid contact surface per volume unit, on the wave energy dissipation by porous structures consisting in dense arrays of emergent vertical cylinders. Experiments have been carried out in a 10 m long wave flume. Three cylinder diameters D are considered in orde...
Sloshing tests are performed on a rectangular tank filled with bottom-mounted vertical cylinders. The cylinders, in regular staggered arrangements, are first emergent then shortened to be fully submerged. Different porosities are achieved by varying the number of cylinders. The tank undergoes forced horizontal motion at frequencies around the natur...
Propagation of water waves in coastal zones is mainly affected by the influence of currents and bathymetry variations. Models describing wave propagation in coastal zones are often based on the numerical solution of the Mild Slope equation (Kirby, 1984). In this work, an extension of this equation is derived, taking into account the linear variatio...
This manuscript reports on a novel field experiment carried out on a microtidal beach in Camargue, France. For the first time in the field, a comprehensive description of the groundwater dynamics under sandy beach swash zone is presented. A cross-shore network of 15 buried pressure sensors is combined with terrestrial LiDAR measurements to study th...
We present numerical modelling to study the impact of natural and anthropic process on the sedimentary dynamic. This approach is based on the numerical modelling of wave propagation and of sediment transport in order to predict the shoreline evolution. The results concern the localization of erosion or accretion areas. A long term shoreline evoluti...
The infiltration and the entrapment of hydrocarbon oil on a layer of sediments made up of sand are analyzed in experiments by a device of Darcy. It is shown that the permeability and the porosity of the porous environment are modified. It also discusses the changes in the viscosity of the pollutant after passing on the sand. The analysis of the who...
This communication is related to the energy dissipation by porous media. A particular attention is paid on the effects of specific surface on dissipated energy through a porous media constituted by a compact network of emerging vertical cylinders. Experiments have been performed with three porous structures with varying cylinder diameters. The poro...
This note is related to the scaling effects of porous media consisting in emerging vertical cylinder array. Wave and current experiments were carried out in a 10m-long flume. Three cylinder diameters are considered in order to study the role of the specific surface while keeping the porosity constant. Both porous media length and water depth are se...
Large scale experiments were carried out in the Ocean Engineering Basin FIRST, France. A tri-dimensional bathymetry consisting of two symmetrical submerged mounds was displayed on the flat bed on both sides of the basin. Regular waves of frequency corresponding to deep water conditions above the bathymetry were generated in opposing current conditi...
Experiments are carried out in a wave basin in order to study the swash-groundwater interaction. A set of wave gages and pressure sensors are used to monitor the free surface and groundwater dynamics. The study is based on the comparison of two selected cases which differ by the gravity and infragravity forcing conditions, the features of wave brea...
Wave propagation against current : a study of the effects of vertical
shears of the mean current on the geometrical focusing of water waves
J. Charland * **, J. Touboul **, V. Rey ** jenna.charland@univ-tln.fr *
Direction Générale de l'Armement, CNRS
Délégation Normandie ** Université de Toulon, 83957
La Garde, France Mediterranean Institute of Oc...
An experimental study was carried in the Ocean Engineering Basin (BGO FIRST), as part of GIS HYDRO in 2008. The results allowed us to note an important rise in the wave amplitude unexpected by the mild slope equation. In addition we note the presence of a vertical shearing in the current which seems to influence significantly the dynamics of water...
As a general rule, it is accepted the glicade hemoglobine level as a good index in the DM control. No doubts about the DM diagnostic with HbA1c > 6,5%, but difficult to confirm the diagnostic with HbA1c < 6,5%.For a correct treatment in DM-2, we must consider life style changes, changing several feeding habits and promoting phisycal exercise. For a...
Since the first moment insuline was administered in a patient in 1922, different long-lasting types of insuline have been developed, something that let us use different treatment management strategies when antidiabetic oral drugs have failured in DM-2. Bearing in mind the glitazones as the less appropiate drug to be used with insuline therapy, the...
At the moment we have three different consensus from three different Scientific Societies with guidelines for insulinization. According to the SED (Spanish Diabetes Society), with HbA1c between 6,5–8,5%, it is recommended to beguin with life style changes + metformine and when not enough add a second oral drug or insuline. With HbA1c > 8,5% it is r...
Transport sédimentaire et morphodynamique en zone littorale
Le lido de Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone (Languedoc-Roussillon) est un archétype de littoral microtidal, dominé par la houle, en érosion, et largement affecté par la submersion marine lors des tempêtes. Les observations réalisées dans le cadre du Système d'Observation Littoral - Trait de Côte (SO LTC) concernent l'hydrodynamique et le transport sédiment...
The dynamic pressure distribution on the bottom of a wave flume, due to the interaction of water waves with a submerged structure, is investigated experimentally and analytically, for both first- and second-order gravity waves of finite amplitude. The dynamic pressure excess is found to be very important, even for incoming waves propagating in deep...
Part of evanescent modes in the normally incident gravity surface wave's
energy layout around a submerged obstacle Jenna Charland *1, Vincent
Rey *2, Julien Touboul *2 *1 Mediterraneen Institute of Oceanography.
Institut des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Toulon-Var. Avenue Georges
Pompidou, BP 56, 83162 La Valette du Var Cedex, France. Centre National
de...
Experiments were carried out in the Ocean Engineering Basin (BGO) FIRST, France, of useful length 24 metres and effective width 16 metres. A tridimensional bathymetry consisting of two symmetrical submerged mounds of maximum extension 8.5 m lengthwise was displayed on the flat bed on both sides of the basin. The maximum water depth was of 3 m, the...
In this experimental work, both wave amplification and phase evolution, due to a submerged mound, are studied. In addition to the classical surface wave measurements, the experimental study takes advantage of photographs that underline crest re-organization above and down-wave the shoal. In particular, together with wave amplification up to more th...
Sous D. ; Lambert A. ; Michallet H. and Rey V., 2011. Groundwater pressure dynamics in a laboratory swash zone.JournalofCoastalResearch,SI(Proceedingsof the11th International Coastal Symposium),– Szczecin, Poland, ISN As part of the MODLIT program, which is a laboratory qualification campaign for sandy beach morphodynamics model, an instrumental st...
The hydrodynamic functioning of an oscillating water column (OWC) in the presence of an underwater tri-dimensional mound (UTDM) through large-scale ocean engineering basin experiments is described. Experiments are carried out with both regular and irregular waves and are compared to numerical models. The analysis is based on the measurements of the...
As a part of the ECORS program (financial support SHOM, France), which
is a qualification campaign for sandy beach morphodynamic models, an
instrumental field study has been conducted on the Truc Vert beach in
Aquitaine, France. The main objective of this study was to characterize
surf and swash zones dynamics of a barred macro-tidal beach. A
parti...
In recent years, instrumentation for field flow measurements has become more and more sophisticated. In particular, local pressure and velocity are measured at frequency rates up to at least 2Hz, which gives information on wave energy. The present work describes the methods for partially standing wave measurement in the presence of current by use o...
In recent years, there has been an increased interest in the possibility
for tsunami radar remote sensing, owing to the effects of
tsunami-induced changes on the propagation of short sea waves. Well
before microwave radars, HF radars have been investigated to detect
tsunami induced- current effects on ocean surface waves (Barrick, 1979).
Nonetheles...
An instrumental field study has been conducted on the Truc Vert beach in Aquitaine, France. This study is a part of the ECORS program, which is a qualification campaign for sandy beach morphodynamics model. A key-point of the understanding of sandy beaches dynamics is the knowledge of the interactions between surface and groundwater hydrodynamics,...
In recent years, there has been an increased interest in the possibility for tsunami radar remote sensing, owing to the effects of tsunami-induced changes on the propagation of short sea waves. Well before microwave radars, HF radars have been investigated to detect tsunami induced- current effects on ocean surface waves (Barrick, 1979).
Nonetheles...
The model presented here follows wave propagation in curvilinear coordinates given by rays and crests, (BOUGIS 2004), avoiding angle limitations linked to the parabolic approximation of mild-slope equation on a privileged axis. The method consists of building the meshing in refraction first, and then of modifying it in taking into account diffracti...
Experiments are described which demonstrate subharmonic Bragg resonances in the context of linear gravity surface waves propagating on a doubly periodic bottom. The experimental results are found to be in good agreement with the predictions of a numerical model based on the full potential theory of linear waves. The importance of evanescent modes i...
1] The effects of a submarine canyon on the propagation of ocean surface waves are examined with a three-dimensional coupled-mode model for wave propagation over steep topography. Whereas the classical geometrical optics approximation predicts an abrupt transition from complete transmission at small incidence angles to no transmission at large angl...
The subject of this article is the effectiveness of beach dewatering stabilization methods on a micro-tidal, reflective beach of the French Mediterranean (Bay of Agay, Var). Study of the long-term sedimentary tendencies highlights the existence of a natural erosion of the site between 1950 and 1976, before anthropogenic influence (groins and beach...
The characteristic wave period (or frequency) is a key parameter in most of hydrodynamic models and paradoxically its determination is not easy, particularly in presence of wind sea conditions or in the nearshore zone. In this paper, we propose to show why it is complex to clearly define this parameter and the implication that it can induce in the...