Vincent Marieu

• PhD
• Engineer at French National Centre for Scientific Research

Understanding and predicting sandy shoreline evolution over the next decades is key to effective conservation and management of coastal ecosystems. Although skillful and efficient on cross-shore transport dominated sites (Splinter et al. 2014), reduced complexity equilibrium shoreline models strongly rely on data for the calibration of the free par...

In the context of climate change and growing anthropogenic influence on coastal regions, the need for reliable models for long-term (decadal to centennial) shoreline evolution is paramount (Nicholls et al., 2014). Process-based 2D and 3D models incorporate a wide array of physical processes; however, their high computational cost (Zhang et al., 201...

Topographic data are widely used to monitor morphological changes over coastal areas and can be collected through different methods and techniques. DGPS data (Harley et al., 2011), airborne LiDAR data (Sallenger et al., 2001), and more recently, satellite imagery (Almeida and al., 2019) can be used to derive Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) for coas...

In the context of sea levels rising, monitoring spatial and temporal topographic changes along coastal dunes is crucial to understand their dynamics since they represent natural barriers against coastal flooding and large sources of sediment that can mitigate coastal erosion. Different technologies are currently used to monitor coastal dune topogra...

Potentially acting as a source or a sink for plastic pollution to the open ocean, nearshore waters remain a challenging context for predicting the transport and deposition of plastic debris. In this study, we present an advanced modeling approach based on the SWASH wave model and the TrackMPD (v3.0) particle transport model to investigate the trans...

Headland and groyne sand bypassing greatly influences embayment dynamics at medium to long timescales, but is often disregarded or partially included in reduced-complexity shoreline models. This study explores how accounting for subaqueous sediment bypassing in a shoreline model affects mean embayed beach planshape and spatial variability. We imple...

Water resources play a crucial role in the global water cycle and are affected by human activities and climate change. However, the impacts of hydropower infrastructures on the surface water extent and volume cycle are not well known. We used a multi-satellite approach to quantify the surface water storage variations over the 2000–2020 period and r...

Potentially acting as a source or a sink for plastic pollution to the open ocean, nearshore waters remain a challenging context for predicting the transport and deposition of plastic debris. In this study, we present an advanced modelling approach based on the SWASH wave model and the TrackMPD (v3.0) particle transport model to investigate the tran...

The north of the Médoc coast, SW France, is a sandy coast with complex environment settings including an irregular bathymetry, shallow bank, rocky outcrops, and an adjacent km-scale estuary. This coast is strongly affected by marine erosion and exhibits dramatic erosion trends, with shoreline retreats reaching locally several meters per year for de...

Modelling and predicting the future of sandy shorelines is a key challenge in coastal research and is critical for sustainable coastal management. However, currently the most skillful shoreline models strongly rely on data to calibrate the free parameters, and are thus restricted to a few well monitored sites in the world. Here we address the chall...

Because of the great heterogeneity of the limestone fissures, conduits, and reservoirs in karst areas, the understanding of the infiltration in caves and karst terrains is complicated. For example, the time delays observed between rainfall and the various flows into caves, such as shaft flow and seepage flow, exhibit significant variability. To bet...

Understanding and predicting surf zone risks is of paramount importance to prevent drowning incidents and severe spine injuries on beaches globally. This study holistically addressed life risk at La Lette Blanche beach, southwest France, during the lifeguard-patrolled summer period (July–August) 2022, where intense rip currents and shore-break wave...

Sandy shoreline erosion has become one of the biggest threats to coastal zones globally, both in developed and less developed regions of the world, which calls for improved understanding of past and future shoreline evolution and its drivers. This is true for long-term shoreline change trends but also for interannual shoreline response linked to la...

Understanding and predicting surf zone risks is of paramount importance to prevent drowning incidents and severe spine injuries on beaches globally. This study holistically addressed life risk at La Lette Blanche beach, southwest France, during the lifeguard-patrolled summer period (July-August) 2022, where intense rip currents and shore-break wave...

Beach slope is a critical parameter to, e.g., beach safety, wave reflection at the coast and longshore transport rate. However, it is usually considered as a time-invariant and profile-average parameter. Here, we apply a state-of-the-art equilibrium model to hindcast beach slope variability from the time scales of days to years at the high-energy m...

The vast majority of coastal dunes in Europe have been stabilized by increasing vegetation cover since the mid‐20th century. However, some systems may experience a remobilization phase, generally occurring locally and further propagating alongshore, the drivers of which remain poorly documented. This study investigates the evolutionary paths (stabi...

Understanding and predicting shoreline change along sandy coasts requires continuous (in both time and space) long-term (decades) shoreline data at good spatial (e.g. 100 s of metres) and temporal (e.g. months) resolution. Publicly available satellite imagery can now provide such time series. However, satellite-derived shorelines (SDS) are associat...

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imager...

Coastal dune systems provide important ecosystem services, while being vulnerable to marine erosion. In these environments, blowouts can develop and promote sand transport from the beach to the back of the dune, but are generally fought by coastal dune managers. There are only few quantitative studies on the 3D evolution of blowouts and how they ca...

Surface water storage is an essential component of the hydrological cycle. Remote sensing offers valuable tools for monitoring both surface water extent from satellite images and water levels from radar altimetry. Combining both information, we were able to estimate the variations of surface water extent and storage in the Lower

Large-scale coastal monitoring programs are challenging to maintain over time but are necessary to understand and further predict complex coastal evolution and resilience. The 230 km-long Aquitaine coast is a high-energy meso-macrotidal coast composed of beach-dune systems showing dramatic morphological changes at seasonal and interannual scales. T...

Wind waves breaking at an angle with the shoreline force the drifting of littoral sediments, which is known for contributing to the formation and growth of barrier spits. Intriguingly, increased rates of longshore wave power have also been associated with the erosion of some barrier spits on the updrift margin of tidal inlets. Therefore, a numerica...

This paper examines the potential of an optical flow video-based technique to estimate wave-filtered surface currents in the nearshore where wave-breaking induced foam is present. This approach uses the drifting foam, left after the passage of breaking waves, as a quasi-passive tracer and tracks it to estimate the surface water flow. The optical si...

Disturbance increases ecosystem functioning in productive habitats but its effect in stressful conditions is less documented, although this is crucial for understanding the resilience of disturbed systems to natural and anthropogenic disturbances. Our goal is to assess the influence of physical disturbance for ecosystem functioning in coastal sand...

In northern Europe, coastal dune remobilization by restoring natural processes is considered by some to maintain the coastal dune in chronically eroding sectors by migrating landward and to restore dune ecology. In wet climatic contexts, this nature-based solution has been shown to induce an increase in both sand bare areas and vegetation diversity...

Publicly available satellite imagery can now provide multi-decadal time series of shoreline data from local to global scale, enabling analysis of sandy beach shoreline variability across a spectrum of temporal scales. Such data can, however, be associated with large uncertainties, particularly for beaches experiencing a large tidal range (> 2 m) an...

The use of shore-based video systems has become a very popular and accessible low-cost tool for coastal monitoring given their capability to deliver continuous and high-resolution temporal data over large enough spatial scales. However, the reliability of the final image products can be compromised by external factors, sometimes overlooked, that ca...

We present field measurements of nearshore currents at a high-energy mesotidal beach with the presence of a 500-m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave forcing and tide elevation were found to largely impact circulation patterns. In particular, under 4-m oblique wave conditions, our measurements indicate the presence of an intense lo...

Sandy beaches are highly dynamic environments buffering shores from storm waves and providing outstanding recreational services. Long-term beach monitoring programs are critical to test and improve shoreline, beach morphodynamics and storm impact models. However, these programs are relatively rare and mostly restricted to microtidal alongshore-unif...

Foredunes are efficient natural coastal defenses acting as protective barriers during storm events. They also have the capacity to be an ecosystem hosting significant biodiversity. The economic development and/or recreational use of the foredune commonly results in a modification of natural functioning and the concomitant mixing of natural and anth...

We analyze Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of wave‐induced circulation collected during a 3‐week field experiment at a high‐energy mesotidal barred beach with the presence of a 500‐m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave and tide conditions were found to largely impact circulation patterns. Three main regimes were identified dep...

Mapping coastal dune vegetation is critical to understand dune mobility and resilience in the context of climate change, sea level rise, and increased anthropogenic pressure. However, the identification of plant species from remotely sensed data is tedious and limited to broad vegetation communities, while such environments are dominated by fragmen...

Foredunes are efficient natural coastal defenses acting as protective barriers during storm events. A striking example is the response of coastal dunes along the Aquitaine Coast (SW France) to the 2013-2014 winter, which was the most energetic winter since at least the mid-20th century in most of the NE Atlantic. The aim of this study is to analyze...

In the context of climate change, coastal dunes, which provide significant ecosystem services, are one of the most vulnerable coastal environments. Moreover, the lack of high resolution and large spatial scale data limits our understanding of coastal dunes, which are subject to important morphological variations over a wide range of spatial and tem...

Mouragues, A.; Bonneton, P.; Castelle, B.; Marieu, V.; Barrett, A.; Bonneton, N.; Detand, G.; Martins, K.; McCarroll, J.; Morichon, D.; Poate, T.; Rodriguez Padilla, I.; Scott, T., and Sous, D., 2020. Field observations of wave-induced headland rips. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research,...

West Africa's low and densely populated coasts crystallize most of the environmental and societal problems and resulting vulnerability. It is becoming urgent to document this coast and the natural and anthropogenic forces to understand its evolution. Saint Louis is a historic (World Heritage) city located on the Langue de Barbarie, a 10 km sandspit...

Fixed video camera systems are consistently prone to importune motions over time due to either thermal effects or mechanical factors. Even subtle displacements are mostly overlooked or ignored, although they can lead to large geo-rectification errors. This paper describes a simple and efficient method to stabilize an either continuous or sub-sample...

Castelle, B.; Marieu, V., and Bujan S., 2019. Alongshore-variable beach and dune changes on the timescales from days (storms) to decades along the rip-dominated beaches of the Gironde Coast, SW France. In: Castelle, B. and Chaumillon, E. (eds.), Coastal Evolution under Climate Change along the Tropical Overseas and Temperate Metropolitan France. Jo...

This paper describes a large-scale experiment designed to examine if reinstating natural processes in the coastal dune systems of Southwest France can be a relevant nature-based adaptation in chronically eroding sectors and a nature-based solution against coastal hazards, by maintaining the coastal dune ecological corridor. An experiment started in...

Spatial variability of surface suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentration in the Gironde estuary and their relationships with environmental forcing are investigated through high spatial resolution multispectral data collected from July 2013 to August 2018 by the Operational Land Imager (Landsat‐8/OLI) and MultiSpectral Instrument (Sentinel‐2/...

With high anthropogenic pressure and the effects of climate change (e.g., sea level rise) on coastal regions, there is a greater need for accurate and up-to-date information about the topography of these systems. Reliable topography and bathymetry information are fundamental parameters for modelling the morpho-hydrodynamics of coastal areas, for fl...

An early assessment of biological invasions is important for initiating conservation strategies. Instrumental progress in high spatial resolution (HSR) multispectral satellite sensors greatly facilitates ecosystems’ monitoring capability at an increasingly smaller scale. However, species detection is still challenging in environments characterized...

We compare different methods to reconstruct the surface elevation of irregular waves propagating outside the surf zone from pressure measurements at the bottom. The traditional transfer function method (TFM), based on the linear wave theory, predicts reasonably well the significant wave height but cannot describe the highest frequencies of the wave...

In this paper, coastal dune data are collected at Truc Vert, SW France, using photogrammetry via Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs). A low-cost GoPro-equipped DJI Phantom 2 quadcopter and a 20 MPix camera-equipped DJI Phantom 4 Pro quadcopter UAVs were used to remotely sense the coastal dune morphology over large spatial scales (4 km alongshore, i.e.,...

A reduced-complexity numerical model, LX-Shore, is developed to simulate shoreline evolution along wavedominated sandy coasts. The model can handle any sandy shoreline geometries (e.g. sand spits, islands), including non-erodible areas such as coastal defenses and headlands, and is coupled with a spectral wave model to cope with complex nearshore w...

Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the cont...

Radar altimetry provides unique information on water stages of inland hydro-systems. In this study, the performance of seven altimetry missions, among the most commonly used in land hydrology (i.e., European Remote-Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2), ENVIronment SATellite (ENVISAT), Satellite with Argos and ALtika (SARAL), Jason-1, Jason-2, Jason-3 and Se...

Quantification of surface water storage in extensive floodplains and their dynamics are crucial for a better understanding of global hydrological and biogeochemical cycles. In this study, we present estimates of both surface water extent and storage combining multi-mission remotely sensed observations and their temporal evolution over more than 15...

Radar altimetry was initially designed to measure the marine geoid. Thanks to the improvement in the orbit determination from the meter to the centimeter level, this technique has been providing accurate measurements of the sea surface topography over the open ocean since the launch of Topex/Poseidon in 1992. In spite of a decrease in the performan...

Tidal sand dune dynamics is observed for two tidal cycles in the Arcachon tidal inlet, southwest France. An array of instruments is deployed to measure bathymetric and current variations along dune profiles. Based on the measurements, dune crest horizontal and vertical displacements are quantified and show important dynamics in phase with tidal cur...

Monitoring changes in coastal sea levels is necessary given the impacts of climate change. Information on the sea level and its changes are important parameters in connection to climate change processes. In this study, radar altimetry data from successive satellite missions, European Remote Sensing-2 (ERS-2), Jason-1, Envisat, Jason-2, and Satellit...

A dataset of 15 geo-referenced orthomosaics photos was generated to address long-term shoreline change along approximately 270 km of high-energy sandy coast in SW France between 1950 and 2014. The coast consists of sandy beaches backed by coastal dunes, which are only disrupted by two wide tidal inlets (Arcachon and Maumusson), a wide estuary mouth...

An array of instruments was deployed in the Arcachon tidal inlet, southwest France, to measure sand dune dynamics for two tidal cycles. Based on the measurements, we quantified dune crest horizontal and vertical displacements that show an important dynamics in phase with the tidal currents. We observed superimposed ripples located on dune stoss sid...

The present work investigates cross-shore shoreline migration as well as its alongshore variability (with deformation) on timescales of days to years using 6 years of time-averaged video images. The variability of the shoreline is estimated through empirical statistical methods with comprehensive reference to three scales of variability. At the mes...

Accretionary downstate beach sequence is a key element of observed nearshore morphological variability along sandy coasts. We present and analyze the first numerical simulation of such a sequence using a process-based morphodynamic model that solves the coupling between waves, depth-integrated currents, and sediment transport. The simulation evolve...

Quantification of surface water storage in extensive floodplains and their dynamics are crucial for a better understanding of global hydrological and biogeochemical cycles. In this study, we present estimates of both surface water extent and storage combining multi-missions remotely-sensed observations and their temporal evolution over more than 15...

This study investigates the impact of individual storms and storm clusters on shoreline recovery for the meso-to macrotidal, barred Biscarrosse beach in SW France, using 6 years of daily video observations. While the study area experienced 60 storms during the 6-year study period, only 36 storms were analysed due to gaps in the video data. Based on...

Compared with hard rock, soft rock, muddy or artificial coasts, sandy coasts are the most exposed and vulnerable to erosion (Eurosion, 2004). In SW France, high-energy sandy beaches run over approximately 300 km, from the Adour river in the South to the southern Oleron Island in the North. Most of this stretch of sandy coast has been eroding over t...

For at least 20 years, nadir altimetry satellite missions have been successfully used to first monitor the surface elevation of oceans and, shortly after, of large rivers and lakes. For the last 5-10 years, few studies have demonstrated the possibility to also observe smaller water bodies than previously thought feasible (river smaller than 500 m w...

Investigation of Anglet beach morphodynamics over 2013-2015, including the impact of the outstanding winter 2013/2014 that caused widespread erosion along the W Europe coast, focusing and the sandbar and shoreline dynamics using video images, wave and tide data.

The succession of severe storms in the North-Eastern Atlantic during the 2013-2014 winter has generated exceptional erosion along the Gironde coast (SW France). Meanwhile, at the Southern extremity of this 110-km long sandy coastal stretch, the Cap Ferret barrier-spit terminus remained relatively stable. The spit terminus is flanked by the Bay of A...

Anglet beach, Basque Coast (SW France), is a 4-km long embayment bounded by a prominent headland in the South and by the southern Adour River training wall in the North. The beach is structurally-engineered with, within the embayment, 6 groins and 3 distinct sectors where the beach is backed by a seawall. The beach is high-energy intermediate, most...