Ulrike Heinrich

Witten/Herdecke University · Institute of Experimental Dermatology (Dermatronnier)

BACKGROUND : The first skin physiological pilot experiment (SkinA) on a single astronaut showed a deterioration of the skin. In a follow-up experiment (SkinB) we showed that skin physiological parameters improved on average. However, it is well known that sports have positive effects on the skin, that astronauts prefer special sports devices, and d...

Hair plays a major role in perception within a society. It provides information about gender, age, health, and social status. It is therefore not surprising that those affected are exposed to great suffering due to the widespread occurrence of hair loss. As a result, the demand for new products to remedy this problem is not diminishing. Hair grows...

Only a well-designed clinical study can deliver scientifically sound results. A good study design eliminates as many sources of bias or systemic errors as possible, leading to higher acceptance and validity of study results. In the following section, factors impacting cosmetic study design and their handling are briefly described.

Good Clinical Practice (GCP) is an internationally recognized standard governing the ethical and scientific quality for the design, conduct, recording, and reporting of clinical trials involving human subjects. The main principles are set down by the International Conference on Harmonisation of Technical Requirements for Registration of Pharmaceuti...

Background: Sunscreen products aim to help protect the skin against UV radiation and consequently reduce the risk of early skin ageing and skin cancer. However, it is well known that some sunscreen ingredients are not photostable, but this usually refers to irradiation with UV light. Moreover, it has to be mentioned that a relative cumulative eryt...

Background: In space, due to fluid shift a 45% decrease in the skin topography parameter volume (mm3 ) was seen using the VisioScan® camera. Simultaneously, the parameters roughness, scaling and wrinkles changed dramatically as well. Thus, the present study has the objective to understand the relationship between the SELS parameters under extreme...

Background: About 50% of the sun's radiation arriving on earth is visible light (VIS). For a long time, its effects on human health have not been fully investigated. But recently, the influence of VIS has gained more attention, especially regarding skin physiology. Studies showed various effects, many of them harmful, comparable to UV radiation. A...

Background: Skin reaction to spaceflight has not really been studied yet, although the skin has a very important barrier function to protect the body and can contribute to a more general understanding of physiology. It is proposed here to make a more thorough investigation of the skin during long-term spaceflight, using noninvasive techniques. Aims...

Background: One of the most challenging and important factors of manned space missions is to keep astronauts healthy on orbit. In a study on 46 ISS crew members who were on 6-month (average) missions, skin rashes were the most self-reported event. Furthermore, among notable events, 40% were classified as skin rashes/hypersensitivities. Thus, especi...

In vitro standard methods are available and accepted worldwide to assess UVA protection of sunscreen products. Though, harmonisation of methods has made progress in the last decade, still two differing methods - one by FDA the other by ISO - are in use. In a multicentre study including 9 centres in Germany, 4 different commercial sunscreen products...

Zusammenfassung In der vorliegenden Studie wurde eine Fußcreme hinsichtlich ihrer Eignung zur Fußpflege von Typ-2-Diabetikern untersucht. An der Wirksamkeitsstudie nahmen 23 Probanden über einen Zeitraum von 6 Wochen teil, welche die Fußcreme 2-mal täglich applizierten. Die Fußcreme zeichnete sich durch gute feuchtigkeitsspendende Eigenschaften aus...

Background: Today, the sun protection factor (SPF) value of sunscreen products is determined in vivo with a standardized protocol (EN ISO 24444:2010), and the measured SPF biological end point is the visible skin erythema. However, many of the sunscreen products currently available on the market have antiphlogistic ingredients, which may potential...

Zusammenfassung Für die Substanzklasse der Carotinoide konnte gezeigt werden, dass diese in lipophilen Systemen als Antioxidantien wirksam sind. In zahlreichen Studien wurde nachgewiesen, dass Carotinoide nicht nur Algen und Pflanzen vor intensiver Sonneneinstrahlung schützen, sondern auch beim Menschen von einer fotoprotektiven Wirkung ausgegangen...

Background: Every day human skin is exposed to infrared A (IRA) radiation as part of the natural sun rays. As IRA radiation accounts for around one third of the solar radiation, it has gained great attention concerning its effects on the human body and skin. In the past few years it has been discussed controversially whether IRA radiation (of sola...

Sphingolipids are well known to promote keratinocyte differentiation and to induce ceramide production. In addition, they show anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities. Thus, the aim of this study is to investigate the potential effect of sphinganine on prolonging the hair anagen rate and improving the overall hair quality and scalp health. T...

Weightlessness may impair the astronaut’s health conditions. Skin impairments belong to the most frequent health problems during space missions. Within the Skin B project, skin physiological changes during long duration space flights are currently investigated on three European astronauts that work for nearly half a year at the ISS. Measurements on...

Hintergrund: Neben vielen bekannten Heilpflanzen der rationalen Phytotherapie gibt es eine Vielzahl von Pflanzen, deren Wirkung nur unzureichend erforscht oder deren Wirkpotential in Vergessenheit geraten ist. Zu diesen Pflanzen gehört die Kristall-Mittagsblume (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum L.). In der vorliegenden Arbeit werden 3 Pilotstudien vor...

The human skin barrier is an important part of the skin's intactness and its functionality is a precondition for healthy skin. Ingredients in cosmetic formulations, especially penetration enhancers, can influence this barrier function as they transport active agents into deeper skin layers. In this study different cosmetic formulations were tested...

Sustainable effects of nutriceuticals have been proven, e.g. concerning moisture and elasticity of the skin, and the skin's barrier function. However, short-term effects cannot be expected. Nutriceuticals should not be misunderstood as a compensation for unhealthy nutrition.

Many studies have revealed that special nutritional supplements (nutricosmetics) show an efficacy with regards to keep our skin and hair in good health. Additional antioxidants, vitamins, mineral substances etc. may be required to maintain healthy skin and hair, if we cannot get a sufficient amount of nutrients from our daily food. In the developme...

It is well established that decorative cosmetics can enhance female facial attractiveness. In this study, we investigated the effects of a cleanser and a decent foundation on attractiveness of female faces. Comparative rating of a set of facial photographs by a group of lay persons revealed that the cleansing product was significantly reducing the...

The aim of this study was to assess the effect of 2% bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate (HDBM; RonaCare(®) AP) as an active ingredient in the treatment of oily and blemished skin. This study was carried out as a randomized, placebo-controlled, single-blind study on 44 test subjects with blemished skin over a period of 8 weeks. Sebum mea...

The Dexpanthenol-containing* foot cream has been especially formulated to meet the special needs of people, who suffer from dry and sensitive skin. The foot cream is characterized by its very good moisturizing effect, while at the same time strengthening the skin's barrier. Thanks to the skin caring characteristics of the Dexpanthenol-containing fo...

In a recent study 60 female volunteers (40-65 years) were randomly distributed into an intervention or control group (13). Over a period of 12 weeks the participants consumed a beverage with green tea polyphenols, providing 1402 mg total catechins/day or a matched control beverage. Photoprotection, skin structure and function were measured at basel...

Microcirculation in the dermis of the skin is important for nutrient delivery to this tissue. In this study, the effects of a micronutrient concentrate (Juice Plus+®; 'active group'), composed primarily of fruit and vegetable juice powder, on skin microcirculation and structure were compared to placebo. This 12-week study had a monocentric, double-...

Dietary constituents including polyphenols and carotenoids contribute to endogenous photoprotection and modulate skin characteristics related to structure and function of the tissue. Animal and in-vitro studies indicate that green tea polyphenols affect skin properties. In a 12-wk, double-blind, placebo-controlled study, 60 female volunteers were r...

Aim To determine changes in skin physiological parameters during the intake of vegetable and fruit juice powder concentrate (JPC) vs. placebo capsules over 12 wk. Changes in microcirculation, hydration properties, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and changes in ultrastructure of the skin (thickness and density) were determined. Methods Microcircu...

Skin sensitivity is a common problem in the Western population correlated with changes of skin properties like skin barrier function, hydration and skin physiology. Skin properties can be modulated by dietary fatty acids (FA), especially poly-unsaturated FA. The present study was performed to evaluate the effect of daily supplementation with flaxse...

IFSCC Magazine, 12 (4) 365–370 (2009) Synopsis Optoacoustics is a new method to study the optical properties of human skin in vivo . We measured the absorption spectra of human skin in a study in twenty subjects belonging to skin phototypes I‐IV. Absorption coefficients were determined in the range from 290 nm to 341 nm (3 nm steps) on the inner a...

In the past, several attempts have been made to develop in vitro methods for determining protection against UV radiation. To date however, there is no broadly accepted method. Various known and unknown parameters influence the transmission measurements of scattering films, such as the multifaceted compositions of sunscreens, the technical limitatio...

Für die Substanzklasse der Carotinoide konnte in den vergangenen Jahren gezeigt werden, dass diese in lipophilen Systemen als Antioxidanzien wirksam sind. In zahlreichen Studien konnte nachgewiesen werden, dass Carotinoide nicht nur Algen und Pflanzen vor intensiver Sonneneinstrahlung schützen, sondern auch beim Menschen von einer fotoprotektiven W...

Citation: IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (3) 231–238 A prolonged stay in weightlessness induces several medical alterations of the human body and also results in impairment of the skin. The stratum corneum, epidermal barrier as well as other skin compartments are affected in terms of their susceptibility to dryness, desquamation and pruritus. This can l...

Knowledge of the optical properties of human skin in the ultraviolet range is fundamental for photobiologic research. However, optical properties of human skin in the ultraviolet spectral range have so far mainly been measured ex vivo. We have determined the absorption spectra of human skin in vivo in the wavelength range from 290 to 341 nm in 3 nm...

For carotenoids, an antioxidant effect in lipophile systems has been established in recent years. Carotenoids do not only protect algae and plants from intensive sunlight, but it is also assumed that they function as photo-protective agents in humans, as several studies confirm. Thus, a dietary supplementation of carotenoids, at least temporarily,...

Ingestion of selected nutrients modulates dermal properties. In the present study, two groups of women ingested flaxseed or borage oil for 12 weeks. The control group received a placebo containing medium-chain fatty acids. Dose was 2.2 g total fatty acids/d with alpha-linolenic acid and linoleic acid as major constituents in the flaxseed oil group;...

The wavelength-dependent penetration depth of ultraviolet radiation in human skin is a fundamental parameter for the estimation of the possible photobiological impact of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. We have determined the absorption spectra of human skin in vivo in the wavelength range from 290 to 341 nm in 3-nm steps using laser optoacoustics and c...

The absorption spectrum of human skin provides a basis for the estimation of the possible photobiological impact of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The optical properties of human skin in the UV spectral range have so far mainly been measured ex vivo due to a lack of an appropriate in vivo technique and the change of optical properties during the cours...

Astronauts often show skin reactions in space. Systematic tests, e.g. with noninvasive skin physiological test methods, have not yet been done. In an interdisciplinary cooperation, a test series with skin physiological measurements was carried out before, during and after a long-term mission in the International Space Station. The hydration of the...

Synopsis The aim of the study was to develop a simple reproducible and reliable in vitro water resistance (WR) method to assess the sun care products. This paper is the result of a scientific collaboration between seven different international industrial laboratories and testing institutes. The same group has already achieved an in vitro protocol f...

The aim of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of polysaccharides from fish cartilage with regard to their skin aging properties. An application test was carried out during the intake of cartilage tablets as a nutritional supplement. The study was designed as a monocentric, double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled application test. 28 health...

Long term cocoa ingestion leads to an increased resistance against UV-induced erythema and a lowered transepidermal water loss. To investigate the acute effects of a single dose of cocoa rich in flavanols on dermal microcirculation. In a crossover design study, 10 healthy women ingested a cocoa drink (100 ml) with high (329 mg) or low (27 mg) conte...

The aim of the study was to assess an Ectoin formulation with regard to the antiageing properties. The study was designed as a monocentric, randomized, double-blind application test, in order to ensure the compatibility and the efficacy of Ectoin in comparison to a vehicle emulsion. A total of 104 voluntary healthy female test subjects were include...

It is often debated that the protection against solar-induced erythema under real conditions is dependent upon the amount of sunscreen applied. It is believed that when too little is applied a lower sun protection than indicated on the label will result. The aim of this study was to quantify this effect. In this multicenter study, the influence of...

Dietary antioxidants contribute to endogenous photoprotection and are important for the maintenance of skin health. In the present study, 2 groups of women consumed either a high flavanol (326 mg/d) or low flavanol (27 mg/d) cocoa powder dissolved in 100 mL water for 12 wk. Epicatechin (61 mg/d) and catechin (20 mg/d) were the major flavanol monome...

Plant constituents such as carotenoids and flavonoids are involved in the light-protecting system in plants and contribute to the prevention of UV damage in humans. As micronutrients they are ingested with the diet and are distributed into light-exposed tissues where they provide systemic photoprotection. beta-Carotene is an endogenous photoprotect...

In the present study we investigated the influence of two different antioxidant supplements composed of carotenoids, vitamin E and selenium on parameters related to skin health and skin aging. Thirty-nine volunteers with healthy, normal skin of skin type 2 were divided into 3 groups (n = 13) and supplemented for a period of 12 weeks. Group 1 receiv...

In zwei neuen Untersuchungen wurde die antientzündliche Wirkung von Bifonazol an hautgesunden Probanden getestet. Sowohl im Histamin-Quaddeltest als auch nach UV-Bestrahlung zeigte sich eine mit Hydrokortison vergleichbare antiphlogistische Wirkkompetenz des antimykotischen Wirkstoffs Bifonazol (Canesten® Extra Bifonazol). Die entzündungshemmende W...

Carotenoids are suitable photoprotectants, and beta-carotene supplements are used for protection against ultraviolet (UV) light-induced erythema. Protective effects are also observed when carotenoids are provided with the diet. Here, we investigated the photoprotective effects of synthetic lycopene in comparison with a tomato extract (Lyc-o-Mato) a...

Synopsis An extensive study on the sun protection factors (SPF) of sun care products was carried out using the COLIPA (The European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association) method, which relates to in vivo experiments. Furthermore, in vitro methods were tested with sunscreen formulations that were prepared as films on surface‐roughened plates o...

Synopsis A multicentre study for measuring skin hydration with 349 volunteers was carried out in six different laboratories. The purpose of the study was to investigate physical‐, physiological‐ and product‐dependent parameters of three test emulsions (base, base + moisturizer and base + moisturizer + lipids) in a double‐blind study. A comparison b...

Carotenoids are useful oral sun protectants, and supplementation with high doses of beta-carotene protects against UV-induced erythema formation. We compared the erythema-protective effect of beta-carotene (24 mg/d from an algal source) to that of 24 mg/d of a carotenoid mix consisting of the three main dietary carotenoids, beta-carotene, lutein an...

A ring test was carried out in six test centers with 10 different sun care products. The aim of this inter laboratory work was to achieve a new common and reliable procedure for the determination of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) by an in vitro method. Different types of measuring devices were included in the ring test in order to examine the poss...

The importance of effective skin care of persons with subacute atopic dermatitis as well as those with dry sensitive skin, has been proven in many conducted studies. Besides a better skin feeling itchiness, roughness, redness and dryness can be reduced noticeably. At the same time, the pleasant galenic properties of cosmetic skin care are being dem...

The aim of the current study was to determine whether dietary carotenoids influence skin pigmentation and UV photosensitivity in a healthy unsupplemented panel (n = 22) of Caucasian (skin Type II) subjects. Skin spectrophotometric and tristimulus (L*a*b*) CR200 chromameter readings were made at various body sites to objectively measure skin caroten...

Carotenoids are efficient antioxidants capable of scavenging reactive oxygen species generated under conditions of photooxidative stress. It has been shown that supplementation with high doses of beta-carotene protects skin against UV-induced erythema. This study was designed to investigate whether intervention with a natural dietary source rich in...

Synopsis The UVA protection delivered by sunscreens is an issue of increasing importance due to the increasing knowledge about UVA‐induced skin damage. In Europe there is no officially accepted method available to determine the degree of UVA protection. Therefore, the objective of the present study was to design a protocol combining the merits of a...

Skin is the major light-exposed tissue and thus is susceptible to photooxidative stress. In vitro studies demonstrated that carotenoids interact with light of different wavelengths and are capable of scavenging reactive oxygen species, especially those formed in photooxidative reactions. Carotenoids efficiently scavenge singlet molecular oxygen and...

Carotenoids and tocopherols, known to be efficient antioxidants and capable of scavenging reactive oxygen species generated during photooxidative stress, may protect the skin from ultraviolet light-induced erythema. beta-Carotene is widely used as an oral sun protectant but studies on its protective effects are scarce. The objective of this study w...

Surface evaluation of living skin (SELS) is a new optical-photoanalytical process. Four important parameters, determining the surface structure of the skin (scaling, roughness, wrinkling status and smoothness) can be recorded simultaneously. At the same time, the image of the studied skin area can be used either directly or converted to colors chos...

After briefly going into the clinical picture of (seborrhoeic) dandruff, its pathogenesis and therapy, the clinical proof procedure on the scalp is pointed out. A new imageanalytical method, based on past examinations is described. Here, the number of scales (SZ) and the measuring area covered with scales (SF) are measured. From this, a relative sc...

A photoprotective effect could be proven for mixed carotenoids of natural origin from the algae Dunaliella salina. This result was confirmed by aid of colour measurements carried out in the maximum erythema as well as by reflection spectroscopic tests. Due to increasing pigmentation of the skin, the reflection properties changed, indicating lower a...

beta-Carotene is being used as an oral sun protectant, and evidence indicates that carotenoids may protect human skin from light-induced lesions. However, limited information is available on the distribution and accumulation of beta-carotene in skin, especially with respect to various skin regions. With the use of reflection spectroscopy, we invest...

The aim of this study was to demonstrate that modification of the cellular redox‐equilibrium occurs as a consequence of antioxidant nutrients intake (carotenoids, vitamine E and vitamine C) and that these nutrients play a role in the pigmentation of the skin without any UV exposure. We conducted a randomized, double‐blind study in 20 healthy subjec...

Under the criterion od feasibility, with account being taken of ethical and financial aspects, a series od tests are proposed on the basis of many years od experience. Investigations - categorized as basic examinations, supplementary tests and special tests - that can be used to evaluate the safety of cosmetic products are discussed in the light of...

The repetitive irritation test (RIT) can be performed over five days and evaluated with transepidermal water loss and semiquantitative scores for testing irritants, especially tensides. The test can also prove valuable for determining the effectiveness of barrier cremes against such tensides. In addition, the RIT could help determine sensitive skin...

The aim of this study was to develop a process by which it is possible to determine the effect, duration and mode of action of different corticosteroids. The tests were carried out on healthy volunteers. The combination of various methods, such as thermography, colorimetry and laser flowmetry proved advantageous in evaluating the vasoconstrictory e...

Field potentials and the reflection spectra of cytochromes were continuously recorded from the olfactory cortical slice of a guinea pig which was incubated under the normoxic and anoxic conditions. The reduction of the oxidated spectra of the cytochromes occurred before the decrease of field potential heights and the oxidation of the reduced spectr...

Carotenoids are useful oral sun protectants, and supplementation with high doses of -carotene pro- tects against UV-induced erythema formation. We com- pared the erythema-protective effect of -carotene (24 mg/d from an algal source) to that of 24 mg/d of a carot- enoid mix consisting of the three main dietary carotenoids, -carotene, lutein and lyco...

Carotenoids are efficient antioxidants capa- ble of scavenging reactive oxygen species generated under conditions of photooxidative stress. It has been shown that supplementation with high doses of b-carotene protects skin against UV-induced erythema. This study was designed to investigate whether intervention with a natural dietary source rich in...

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