Simeon Gill

The University of Manchester · Department of Materials

This experimental study aims to develop an approach to quantify dimensional changes in the lower body of female football players, with the intention of demonstrating how the results can be used to inform the development of lower body sports compression garments. A framework was established in order to analyse 3D body scans in functional postures us...

Advances in fashion pattern construction technologies continually introduce novel approaches that address the limitations of existing practices. To keep pace, these emerging technologies must be widely disseminated to update practitioners’ skills and advance current practices. The literature identifies two primary dissemination methods: the traditi...

Pattern parametrisation has the potential to address the inefficiencies and environmental concerns associated with traditional pattern construction practices dominating both industry and academia. However, its adoption is still limited due to a lack of realisation despite its presence in CAD technical applications for decades. This has impeded its...

Pattern parametrisation has the potential to address the inefficiencies and environmental concerns associated with traditional pattern construction practices dominating both industry and academia. However, its adoption is still limited due to a lack of realisation despite its presence in CAD technical applications for decades. This has impeded its...

Joint injuries, and their long-term consequences, present a substantial global health burden. Wearable prophylactic braces are an attractive potential solution to reduce the incidence of joint injuries by limiting joint movements that are related to injury risk. Given human motion and ground reaction forces, we present a computational framework tha...

For the shape control of deformable free-form surfaces, simulation plays a crucial role in establishing the mapping between the actuation parameters and the deformed shapes. The differentiation of this forward kinematic mapping is usually employed to solve the inverse kinematic problem for determining the actuation parameters that can realize a tar...

Literature suggests perceived clothing fit quality to facilitate emotional connections with garments due to various factors such as the impact of fit on aesthetics and comfort, thus affecting length of ownership and regularity of wear. No research to date explores if and how clothing fit may impact the care, repair and disposal decisions that are v...

This chapter is centred around the luxury unstitched apparel market of Pakistan and interactive virtual fitting room tools of fashion e-commerce such as 3D mobile app scanners, virtual reality, augmented reality, and mixed reality. Interactive virtual fitting room tools have been developed extensively for the advantage of both consumers and fashion...

Garment fitting processes in mass-produced fashion are inherently flawed, leading to widespread difficulty among consumers in finding well-fitted clothing. Previous studies indicate that the quality of clothing fit has a prominent impact on the length of garment use, with poor fit encouraging premature disposal. Thus, improved sustainability in fas...

Rigid body avatars do not fully define the complex interaction between human and body-worn product (humanoid-to-coveroid). Skin and soft tissue modeling to create more realistic 3D humanoid body models are needed. We considered if humanoid split lines relevant to pattern-engineering practice can be related to biodynamic and fold lines of the skin....

Sampling is a critical step in the concept-to-style workflow for digitally created products. Virtual environments allow sampling without the costs associated with physical prototyping However, current practice often still requires physical prototyping. Here we consider how landmarking contributes to the need for iterative sampling, thereby inhibiti...

Technological advancements have changed the traditional e-commerce marketing environment to an interactive v-commerce metaverse marketing environment. The chapter outlines the recent v-commerce tools for interactive marketing in fashion metaverse. To enhance interactive marketing in terms of size and fitting in v-commerce, mobile 3D body scanning h...

Abstract The clothing industry around the globe frequently use human body measurements for garment production. This study aims to determine the potential of 3D body scanning feature of mobile application for product development and selection of right size and fitted garment using fashion e-commerce platform. Digital measurement methods have been i...

Lock-stitch embroidery has been the centre of much interest as a versatile and precise method of producing conductive tracks in the fabrication of wearable electronic devices. However, improper fabrication parameter settings could result in the nonconformity of the conductive tracks and damage the conductive coating of the conductive yarns. In this...

Technology and digitalization are increasingly influencing developments in sizing and fit for clothing. From the classification of the customer to retail interfaces and the intermediary design and development steps, technology is changing how product development and retail happen. This includes how populations and individuals are considered and cat...

Relatively little is known about the factors that mediate the relationship between high body mass index (BMI) and reduced body satisfaction. This is the first study to investigate whether availability of well-fitting clothes mediates this relationship. Eighty-five women with an age range of 18–81 years were 3D body scanned and weighed and measured...

This study applies a mixed-method design ethnography approach guided by inclusive design practices, to investigate fashion preferences and design requirements for older female consumers in China. Twenty-seven Beijing women aged between 55 and 70 years old participated in a semi-structured interview and wardrobe study to obtain textual and visual et...

The fashion industry cannot use 3 D Body Scanning to create custom garment patterns because its measurements fail to meet ISO 20685:2010’s tolerances. To advance 3 D Body Scanning’s precision, we present Gryphon: an algorithm that removes the two most extreme measurements from five body scans; removing potentially erroneous data. We assess Gryphon’...

This paper demonstrates the effects of slight differences in measurement definitions on resultant body shape classification. Ergonomic researchers consider the Female Figure Identification Technique (FFIT) a ‘gold standard’ body shape classification system to describe variation in a population’s 3D profile. Nevertheless, researchers use FFIT withou...

The study aims to establish the virtual size and fit technology features to enhance fashion online retailing platforms, utilising digital human measurements to provide customised style and function to consumers. A few firms in the UK have launched advanced interactive fashion shopping domains for personalised shopping globally, aided by the latest...

Studies focusing on drafting a pattern block for women to produce balanced, well-fitted garments hav7e not received a great deal of research attention. This research is based on the premise that, in the clothing industry, a pattern is made according to a measurement system based on standardised proportional expectations, which often need to be adju...

In clothing production, measurements of an individual are used to drive the geometry of each piece of fabric used to make the garment. Templates called 'pattern blocks' define this geometry but the drafting of blocks from measurements by hand is a time-consuming activity. The automation of this process is made possible by JBlockCreator, an applicat...

Abstract This paper through - the Diffusion of Innovation Model - shows that while 3D Body Scanning brings some refining and improvements of existing methods, it does not introduce new concepts that depart from traditional retail practices. 3D Body Scanning is - potentially - a powerful way of approaching size and fit in apparel and one that presen...

Whole-body scanning is increasingly used in the clothing industry, including in large-scale sizing surveys and virtual fitting. However, the impacts of 3D scanning on women’s body satisfaction are unclear as no previous studies have investigated impacts in a controlled experiment. This experiment investigated any causal effect of 3D whole-body scan...

Objective: Whole-body scanning is now available in stores to assist buyers in choosing well-fitting clothes. This study was designed to investigate men’s accounts of scanning, body image, and expectations of behaviour change. Design: Ten men aged 18-39 years without histories of eating disorders or previous experience of whole-body scanning, took p...

Currently, wheelchair rugby athletes face the challenges of playing the sport without specifically designed sports-wear kit. A few designs and recommendations have already been proposed by researchers but none have made it to market yet. The purpose of this study was to evaluate a set of design recommendations for the development of wheelchair rugb...

Wheelchair rugby is a sport played by approximately 200 people in the United Kingdom. Despite being a small part of the population, research suggests that there are some aspects related to the sports-wear that need attention. This is especially relevant for gloves, as they have been identified as one of the main causes of performance losses. Until...

This paper outlines a wardrobe study conducted within a larger research investigation that aims to examine the daily clothing choices and preferences of older female consumers in China to inform clothing design for this demographic. Based on inclusive design principles, the paper discusses the method and results of a wardrobe study designed to gath...

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to draw attention to the link between underdeveloped and ill-informed sizing practices, fit dissatisfaction and the creation of textiles waste. The literature review identifies: issues that limit the effective development and application of sizing systems, the link between the complexities of consumer fit expec...

Wheelchair rugby is a sport that has been gaining popularity with athletes with disabilities. However, as it is relatively new and not played by the masses, market specific sports-wear is not available for this sport, which impacts directly on performance and clothing satisfaction of the athletes. Therefore, the main objective of this research was...

Online fashion retailing is a major growth area. Innovative online fit and sizing technologies that facilitate purchase continue to develop and launch, however, problems associated with digital expectations of fit and size in consumer decision-making remain unresolved. This research focuses on 20 prominent fit and size technologies from a sample of...

To assume all body scanning measurements are valid for apparel product development is wrong. While human measurement forms the basis for product development and body scanning represents a significant development in the collection of human measurements [1], a distinction must be drawn between measurements suitable for product development (pattern cu...

3D Body Scanning provides access to a greater breadth and depth of anthropometric data for industry applications and scientific research than at any other point in history. However, while the potential of this technology for revolutionising industrial and scientific practices has been established, little exists addressing its appropriateness in ter...

To unify the methodology of Virtual Fit platforms and allowing cross platform integration of 3D Body Scanning, the current Virtual Fit platforms need to be assessed in terms of their size recommendation approach and user interaction. Digital data, interactivity, and internet technology are changing the ways we interact in online shopping, with the...

This report presents 90 of the most common body measurements for garment construction along with their associated allowable errors.

This paper reports the findings of a preliminary study that intended to understand how wheelchair rugby athletes feel about the clothing they wear while playing the sport and how the available clothes make them feel. 61 non-professional wheelchair rugby players from 21 different teams/clubs in the United Kingdom participated in this study. To under...

Objective: This study was designed to investigate whether whole-body scanning might promote healthy eating and physical activity in women, and to explore the effects of scanning on body image. Design: Fourteen women aged 22–45 years without histories of eating disorders or whole-body scanning took part in semi-structured interviews before and after...

The authors of this study explored (a) body-to-pattern measurement and shape relationships in trouser patterns drafted by two methods; (b) the consistency of these body-to-pattern relationships between methods and between differently shaped bodies within methods; (c) the patternmaking procedures that cause these outcomes; and (d) how these findings...

Ergonomic measurement is central to product design and development; especially for body worn products and clothing. However, there is a large variation in measurement definitions, complicated by new body scanning technology that captures measurements in a posture different to traditional manual methods. Investigations of hip measurement definitions...

This white paper provides an overview of the variation in definitions for describing the hip and the position from which to take the hip for clothing related applications. Definitions were taken from retailers websites guiding on clothing size, pattern literature concerned with human measurement and pattern development and clothing related standard...

Due to changing lifestyles in the ageing society in China, consumption behavior for older people tends to be varied rather than traditional, especially in the fashion industry. This research provides a qualitative insight into older women’s (between 55 and 70 years old) lifestyle, and their attitude towards fashion-related consumption in China. Reg...

This study investigated long-term impacts of whole-body scanning. Ninety-one women completed a retrospective on-line questionnaire. Quantitative data revealed that 31 (34%) reported greater body dissatisfaction since the scan, and only six (7%) reported increased satisfaction. Positive change in satisfaction was predicted by current body satisfacti...

Achieving well fitting garments matters to consumers and, therefore, to product development teams, garment manufacturers and fashion retailers when creating clothing that fits and functions both for individuals and for a retailer's target populations. New tools and software for body scanning and product development enhance the ways that sizing and...

The waist is considered as an important measurement point for clothing and represents part of a control section from which lower body garments hang and garments are often required to fit. However, unlike many measurement sites on the body the waist has no single landmark from which to reference it for a population. The non-contact nature of body sc...

Change in human body morphology is well-documented for developmental growth from childhood to adult. However, the morphological change from adulthood to older age is less detailed and less discussed within literature concerned with anthropometric application and clothing construction. This, perhaps, explains why females aged 55+ are the demographic...

As woven garments are cut from flat pieces of cloth, pattern cutting methods must create flat 2D shapes that are constructed to form 3D garments that fit a particular body shape. The placement of side seams represents a key division of the pattern where the front and back portions of a garment relating to a particular body measurement are distribut...

Clothing comfort is one of the major concerns in the clothing industry. Various pattern making methods have been introduced to the industry with consideration to clothing comfort. This study evaluates four pattern making methods known as the ESMOD, Bunka, Aldrich, and Armstrong methods. The work focuses on trouser patterns and uses two subjects who...

This study was designed to investigate women's experiences of dress fit and body image. Spontaneous speech of 20 women aged 18-45 years was audio-recorded while they tried on a number of dresses. They were also body-scanned and photographed in their chosen dress and discussed both the scan and the photograph in semi-structured interviews. Data were...

Developments in clothing production technologies have been rapid and significant in two areas. The first concerns sew-free technologies, primarily adhesive bonding of seams. The technology innovations have affected many markets, but primarily lingerie and sportswear. This chapter considers the drivers for adoption of these technologies and the mach...

Functional ease related to surface changes of the lower body is an important consideration during garment development. Current data available for male subjects have not been established or presented in a manner that can easily be applied during pattern construction. Measurements of the lower body were established in the context of the pattern and c...

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate system, this model proposes the need to quantify the partly coincident variables of ease, which will enable greater control over garment fit and function, using tra...

1.1 Purpose This research establishes the skills sets and processes of current industry practitioners and the effect this has on the achievement of good garment fit. This is contrasted with established definitions of good garment fit, outlined in current literature, and provides evidence of areas which should be addressed through training. 1.2 Meth...

Construction of the garment pattern block provides the basic shapes for manipulation and development. These blocks are often developed using a construction method, allowing at least the minimum levels of ease to satisfy comfort and function. However, current construction methods rarely explicitly state the levels of ease incorporated into the patte...