Richard S Blackburn

University of Leeds · Centre for Technical Textiles

Particulate additives such as perfume microcapsules are present in detergent formulations to add fragrance to the washed garments. The key challenge is controlling the deposition and retention of such particulates onto textile surfaces, as a large proportion are simply washed down the drain during washing. In this study, the influence of particle s...

The global impact of laundering clothing is significant, with high levels of water, energy use, and pollution associated with this consumer care process. In this research, the impacts of washing temperature and washing time on garment colour loss (dye fading), colour transfer (dye staining), and microfibre release were evaluated using retail consum...

Blackcurrant, aronia and cherries are rich sources of anthocyanins, and these pigments are predominantly present in the berries’ epicarp. The fruits are used in the food industry to produce various juices, jams and other preparations. Waste skins are obtained in large quantities from these products, representing a sustainable, food-grade raw materi...

The global impact of laundering clothing is significant, with high levels of water, energy use, and pollution associated with this consumer care process. In this research, the impacts of washing temperature and washing time on dye fading, dye release, and microfiber release were evaluated using retail consumer clothing. Significantly greater color...

Ongoing regulation of, and concerns regarding, per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (also popularly known as "highly fluorinated chemicals"), has driven the textile market to search for sustainable alternative chemistries that can provide similar liquid repellency to per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances in performance textiles. This paper aims to inf...

This paper explores the forgotten history of fibres and films made from regenerated protein sources such as milk, soyabeans, maize, peanuts, egg-white, feathers and slaughter-house products from historical, technological and ecological perspectives. It argues that learning from these experimental 20th century fibres can provide new approaches for c...

Cellulose acetate (CA) can be converted to cellulose II through a deacetylation process using ethanolic NaOH solution. Infrared spectroscopy was used to observe the degree of acetylation by comparing the absorption intensities of C=O and C-O stretches. Attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) analysis, which only measures a...

John Mercer (1791-1866) was a pioneering textile and colour chemist with a legacy of achievements. His invention of mercerising that bears his name, treating cellulosics with sodium hydroxide to bring about advantageous changes in fibre and fabric properties, will stand for all time as one of the most important textile chemical treatments ever deve...

Ongoing regulation of, and concerns regarding, per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (also popularly known as “highly fluorinated chemicals”), has driven the textile market to search for sustainable alternative chemistries that can provide similar liquid repellency to per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances in performance textiles. This paper aims to inf...

Aronia melanocarpa (Michx.) Elliott (black chokeberry) skin wastes from the production of Aronia fruit juice were extracted using a batch extraction method and a novel integrated extraction-adsorption process. Optimum conditions for batch extraction were: 60 °C, 3 h, acid (0.1% v/v HCl), biomass-solvent ratio of 1:16, and biomass-SPE resin ratio of...

Indigo (C.I. Vat Blue 1) is a water-insoluble pigment exhibiting no affinity for fibres, and must be chemically reduced in basic solution to form the water-soluble, alkaline leucoindigo (C.I. Reduced Vat Blue 1), in order exhibit substantivity for fibres. Typical vat dyeing processes are time and resource intensive, and hazardous by-products are fo...

Natural colorants were extracted from renewable botanical sources, specifically waste epicarp from the blackcurrant fruit pressing industry. A process was developed which used acidified water extraction followed by a solid-phase extraction (SPE) purification stage which allowed the production of an anthocyanin-rich extract in good yields (ca. 2% w/...

Anthocyanins (ANC) are hydrophilic and water-soluble polyphenolic plant pigments. The current barriers to successful application of ANC in food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries are predominantly related to performance, stability, formulation properties, and color. Enzymatic acylation of ANC could increase their stability without compromising...

Aronia melanocarpa (Michx.) Elliott (black chokeberry) skin wastes from the production of Aronia fruit juice were extracted using a batch extraction method and a novel integrated extraction-adsorption process. Optimum conditions for batch extraction were: 60 °C, 3 h, acid (0.1% v/v HCl), biomass-solvent ratio of 1:16, and biomass-SPE resin ratio of...

There is much concern about the toxicological effects of synthetic hair dyes. As an alternative approach, renewable waste blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum L.) fruit skins from the fruit pressing industry were extracted using acidified water with a solid-phase purification stage. Anthocyanins colorants were isolated in good yields (2-3% w/w) and character...

Transient hyperglycaemia is a risk factor for type 2 diabetes and endothelial dysfunction, especially in subjects with impaired glucose tolerance. Nutritional interventions and strategies for controlling postprandial overshoot of blood sugars are considered key in preventing progress to the disease state. We have identified apigenin-7-O-glucoside,...

The complex mixtures of colorants present in different madder species can provide significant information about which plant species or technique was used to dye the fibres of historical textile artefacts, hence, when extracting and analysing colorants from textile artefacts as much of this information as possible should be preserved. Historical tex...

The essential amino acid L-tryptophan is naturally present in the body, and is also available as a water soluble dietary supplement. The feasibility of preparing enriched cellulose acetate (CA)-based fibres as a vehicle for therapeutic delivery of such biomolecules was investigated. A new ternary solvent system consisting of acetone: N,N-dimethylac...

Whether we are purchasing fresh vegetables from a market stall, ready meals from the supermarket, eating at home or in five-star restaurant, we use colour to tell us what to expect, in terms of taste, nutrition and safety. This review considers the techniques that have, over the years, been employed to modify the colour of our food, and the interac...

Nature makes amazing chemistry and increasing numbers of naturally-derived ingredients are appearing in cosmetic products, but with little understanding of their activity or composition. Actives from plant material were isolated using green chemistry principles and applications developed for sustainable and functional cosmetics. A range of natural...

Dyers madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been famously used throughout history as a source of red dye. The sorption onto mordanted wool of the major colorant components of R. tinctorum, alizarin and the glycosides ruberythric acid and lucidin primeveroside, is studied herein. Sorption of a purified 1:1 mixture of ruberythric acid:lucidin primeveroside...

Nature is rich in biologically active molecules of interest to the cosmetics industry. Brands are leveraging these “natural” chemicals to tap into the growing market for organic and “natural” products. Advances in chemical analysis and extraction technology were recently discussed in a symposium organized by Dr. Richard Blackburn, University of Lee...

Textiles coloration using extracts from the roots of various madder species (Rubia spp.) has been performed for centuries. To date, 68 anthraquinone colorants have been detected in Rubia spp. used to dye textiles. Many of these dyes are sensitive to hydrolysis and degradation from enzymes, extraction chemicals and processing temperatures, and are o...

Keracol is a spin-out company from The University of Leeds, UK. Keracol develops novel approaches to the extraction of active molecules from plant sources, and fractionating and purifying them for application in cosmetic products for hair coloration, hair care and skin care. Marks & Spencer (M&S) is a multinational retailer primarily working in foo...

Hair styling products are typically based on synthetic polymers and copolymers including, poly(vinylpyrrolidone), polyquaternium-11, and polyquaternium-16, and are ultimately derived from petrochemicals. These polymers and copolymers are generally water and ethanol soluble and provide hold and film formation. Attention has turned to the use of natu...

Sustainability has become a matter of survival for our ever growing population; the number of people on the planet is rising exponentially and if we are to survive we must learn to live in harmony with our planet. Science and technology allow us to develop streamlined processes in order to create the smallest impact for future generations, but sign...

Intensifying legislation and increased research on the toxicological and persistent nature of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs) have recently influenced the direction of liquid repellent chemistry use; environmental, social, and sustainability responsibilities are at the crux. Without PFAS chemistry, it is challenging to meet current text...

Blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum L.) fruit is used in the food industry to produce various beverages, jams and other preparations. Waste blackcurrant skins from fruit pressing are obtained in large quantities from this sustainable and food-grade source. The material can be processed and extracted in large scale using acidified water, and subsequently pur...

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been widely used as a red dye throughout history. Acid-sensitive colorants present in madder, such as glycosides (lucidin primeveroside, ruberythric acid, galiosin) and sensitive aglycons (lucidin), are degraded in the textile back extraction process; in previous literature these sensitive molecules are either absent...

Extracts rich with anthocyanin O-glycosides are obtained from sustainable waste food sources; one notable example is delphinidin- and cyanidin-O-glucosides extracted from blackcurrant – after juice production, waste blackcurrant skins are processed and extracted using acidified water, and subsequently purified using Solid Phase Extraction. Analytic...

Development of sustainable fibres for high performance applications is challenging because of the high mechanical strength properties demanded by such fibres and the general lack of such properties in natural fibres. Himalayan giant nettle (Girardinia diversifolia L.) produces bast fibers that simultaneously provide social and environmental benefit...

Fluorochemistry is extensively used to impart repellent properties to textiles, and is widely used as protective surfactants in daily life consumables - a functionality we, as consumers, take for granted. PFASs (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) impart reliable functionality with high durability and stability, due to the highly stable carbon-flu...

Development of sustainable fibres for high performance applications is challenging because of the high mechanical strength properties demanded by such fibres and the general lack of such properties in natural fibres. The mechanical properties of Himalayan giant nettle (Girardinia diversifolia L.) fibre are measured and compared to those for Europea...

This presentation will discuss the concept of sustainability within textiles and dyeing and why innovation in this area is necessary for the future success of the industry. The lecture will present case studies of sustainability issues and discuss examples of new sustainable fibre innovations, developments in ‘green chemistry’ dyeing technology, an...

Red coloration of textiles from extracts of various madder species (Rubia spp) is a longstanding tradition. The colouring components of these natural plant extracts belong to the chemical family of anthraquinones compounds. By extracting and analysing the solutions obtained in traditional dye recipes it can be seen that the most abundant colouring...

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been exploited as a dye throughout history. The roots of the plant are very rich in the highly coloured glycosidic compounds ruberythric acid and lucidin primeveroside, alongside the corresponding aglycons which can be readily formed by deglycosylation, particularly during extraction. Supported by (1)H and (13)C NMR...

Keracol develops novel approaches to the extraction, fractionation, and purification of active molecules from plant sources, and their application in cosmetic products and food. Keracol is committed to using raw materials that do not compete with land for food, so has focused its research on developing actives from waste materials and marine plants...

Sustainability is an issue that increasingly concerns all those involved in the apparel industry, including textile manufacturers, apparel designers, retailers and consumers. This important book covers recent advances and novel technologies in the key areas of production, processing and recycling of apparel. Part One addresses sustainable finishing...

Reactive dyes are extensively used for coloration of cellulosic fibers because of their excellent wash fastness (stability to washing with aqueous detergent solutions), which arises from covalent bond formation between dye and fibre. However, up to 40% of the dyestuff may hydrolyze in the dyeing process; this hydrolyzed dye has affinity for the fib...

Cell walls of the brown algae contain a diverse range of polysaccharides with useful bioactivities. The precise structures of the sulfated fucan/fucoidan group of polysaccharides and their roles in generating cell wall architectures and cell properties are not known in detail. Four rat monoclonal antibodies, BAM1 to BAM4, directed to sulfated fucan...

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been used as a dye for over 2000years with alizarin and purpurin the major natural dyes analysed from extractions undertaken. The use of ethanol as the solvent in the extraction process produced an extract that yielded four anthraquinone compounds lucidin primeveroside, ruberythric acid, alizarin and lucidin-ω-ethyl...

The extents of uptake of 0.5–15% of two disperse dyes on woven, knitted and hydroentangled nonwoven poly (ethylene terephthalate) fabrics were compared. The colour strength of the dyeings followed the order: nonwoven > knitted > woven. Differences in surface reflection were not responsible for the observed dye uptake behaviour, as the PET fibres us...

Carbohydrate-binding modules (CBMs) are a set of tools that can be used as molecular probes for studying plant cell walls and cellulose-based substrates. CBMs from enzymes of bacterial and fungal origin present a range of recognition capabilities for crystalline and amorphous cellulose. Here cellulose-directed CBMs have been used to visualize and q...

Carbohydrate-binding modules (CBMs) are a set of tools that can be used as molecular probes for studying plant cell walls and cellulose-based substrates. CBMs from enzymes of bacterial and fungal origin present a range of recognition capabilities for crystalline and amorphous cellulose. Here cellulose-directed CBMs have been used to visualize and q...

Reflectance spectra data. Data for reflectance spectra of the 37 different materials used measured at Danish technological service institute (http://www.dhigroup.com) on a Shimadzu dual beam photometer, from 190–900 nm at 10 nm intervals. (XLSX)

Dying procedure of polyester materials Blue 9–13, Purple 2, White 2. Detailed dying procedure for materials Blue 9–13, Purple 2, White 2. (DOCX)

Reflectance spectra graphs for each experiment. Graphs of spectral reflectivities of materials used in each experiment, on the y-axis is percent reflectivity and on the x-axis wavelength in nm. (XLSX)

Most cases of human African trypanosomiasis (HAT) start with a bite from one of the subspecies of Glossina fuscipes. Tsetse use a range of olfactory and visual stimuli to locate their hosts and this response can be exploited to lure tsetse to insecticide-treated targets thereby reducing transmission. To provide a rational basis for cost-effective d...

Cotton fiber cellulose is highly crystalline and oriented; when native cellulose (cellulose I) is treated with certain alkali concentrations, intermolecular hydrogen bonds are broken and Na-cellulose I is formed. At higher alkali concentrations Na-cellulose II forms, wherein intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonds are broken, ultimately re...

The sodium hydroxide release (alkali wash-off) from lyocell fabrics with different weave constructions (plain, twill, sateen) was studied by conductivity measurements in the wash bath. An alkali transport coefficient (K) was established to quantify alkali release, which represents the liquid-side mass transfer of alkali release after a pad-batch pr...

Cellulose is a linear 1,4-β-glucan polymer where the units are able to form highly ordered structures, as a result of extensive interaction through intra- and intermolecular hydrogen bonding of the three hydroxyl groups in each cellulose unit. Alkali has a substantial influence on morphological, molecular and supramolecular properties of cellulose...

To understand the effect of alkali treatment on sorption behaviour of cellulose II fibres, samples were continuously pre-treated using NaOH over a concentration range of 0.0–7.15 mol dm−3, with varying tension; treated substrates were dyed with hydrolysed C. I. Reactive Red 120. Greatest adsorption of dye occurs for cellulose II fibres treated with...

Natural anthraquinonoid dyes (alizarin and purpurin) were used as platform chemicals to synthesise sustainable alternatives to existing synthetic dyes by alkylation of hydroxy groups in the 1- and 2-positions. In comparison with the parent compounds, the derivatised dyes were insensitive to pH change, insoluble in alkali and the λmax for the mono-a...

True colors: A catalytic process that allows color to be integrated directly into poly(lactic acid) eliminates the need for subsequent wet-processing operations. The technical performance of the new polymers is superior to that of conventionally dyed substrates and the polymers are significantly more sustainable for applications in the textiles ind...

Cellulose is a linear 1,4-β-glucan polymer where the units are able to form highly ordered structures, as a result of extensive interaction through intra- and intermolecular hydrogen bonding of the three hydroxyl groups in each cellulose unit. Alkali has a substantial influence on morphological, molecular and supramolecular properties of cellulose...

Cellulose is a linear 1,4-β-glucan polymer where the units are able to form highly ordered structures, as a result of extensive interaction through intra- and intermolecular hydrogen bonding of the three hydroxyl groups in each cellulose unit. Alkali has a substantial influence on morphological, molecular and supramolecular properties of cellulose...

This chapter describes structures based on the bacterial polyesters poly(hydroxyalkanoates) and fibres based on the synthetic polymer poly(caprolactone). The various materials and techniques available for producing these fibres are discussed along with their properties relevant to sustainable synthetic materials. Examples of other biodegradable pol...

A low-cost and environmental-friendly direct dye-based ink-jet printing system was developed. A novel ink-jet pretreatment method was employed, in which the cationic fixing agent, Matexil FC-ER, was applied as the colourless fixing ink and applied only on image areas of the fabric by ink-jet printer. It was found that this new pretreatment method c...

Environmental issues are playing an increasingly important role in the textile industry, both from the point of view of government regulation and consumer expectations. Sustainable textiles reviews ways of achieving more sustainable materials and technologies as well as improving recycling in the industry. The first part of the book discusses ways...

Experiments were conducted that were designed to study the influence of various process parameters on the properties of lyocell fabrics treated with NaOH solutions in a continuous process. The process parameters of interest were the fabric type (plain, twill, or sateen woven), alkali concentration, tension on the fabric, temperature, and duration o...

Experiments were conducted that were designed to study the influence of various process parameters on the properties of lyocell fabrics treated with NaOH solutions in a continuous process. The process parameters of interest were the fabric type (plain, twill, or sateen woven), alkali concentration, tension on the fabric, temperature, and duration o...

The continuing importance of blue denim maintains indigo as an important vat dye industrially. In this review, we examine the various methods that have been used in the past and are currently used to reduce and dissolve indigo for dyeing. We discuss recent insights into the bacterial fermentation technology, the advantages and disadvantages of the...

To understand the effect of alkali pre-treatment on the dyeing of lyocell fabrics, samples are pre-treated with 0.0–7.0moldm−3 NaOH using a pad-batch process and then dyed with different types of reactive dyes. Exhaustion, fixation, and visual colour strength (K/S values) are measured. It is observed that sodium hydroxide pre-treatment significantl...

Lyocell is a type of regenerated cellulose. Fibres spun from cellulose solution in N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide hydrate consist of crystalline cellulose II and amorphous cellulose. Lyocell fabrics were treated with aqueous sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH) to study the influence of alkali on optical and structural properties. It was observed that sodi...

By blending electrically conducting carbon black particles and silica into poly(bisphenol A-co-epichlorohydrin) epoxy resin polymer, conductive nanocomposites were prepared by printing onto transparency films and curing. Application of a milling procedure prior to application is beneficial for the reduction of cracks in the subsequent nanocomposite...

Dyeings (2% owf) were produced on conventional and microfibre nylon 6. 6 fabrics using unsulphonated, monosulphonated and disulphonated 1:2 metal complex acid dyes. When subjected to the ISO 105:C06/C2 wash test, the wash fastness behaviour of the dyeings was related to the degree of sulphonation of the dyes. Aftertreatment of the dyeings using a c...

The effect of application pH on the effectiveness of the conventional cationic fixing agents Matexil FC-ER and Fixogene CXF in improving the wash fastness of the commercial direct dyes CI Direct Red 89, CI Direct Yellow 106 and CI Direct Blue 85 on cotton has been investigated. While the recommended neutral pH application resulted in improved fastn...

The chemical and physical interactions between ingredients in composites play an important role in the improvement of service properties. The nucleophilic addition between polymer and isophoron diisocyanate molecules was monitored by FT-IR technique. The intensity loss of isocyanate absorption band in conjunction with the intensity growth of carbox...

A study of stem anatomy and the sclerenchyma fibre cells associated with the phloem tissues of hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) plants is of interest for both understanding the formation of secondary cell walls and for the enhancement of fibre utility as industrial fibres and textiles. Using a range of molecular probes for cell wall polysaccharides we hav...

In the preparation of surface coatings made of conductive composites consisting of conductive particulate fillers in a soft matrix, cracks will develop with increase of the particulate loading, which is believed to be related to the nucleophilic addition reaction between glycidyl end-capped poly (bisphenol A-co-epichlorohydrin) and isophorone diiso...

To understand the effect of fibrillation in dyeing, non-fibrillated lyocell fabrics and fibrillated lyocell fabrics were dyed with different types of reactive dyes. Their exhaustion, fixation and K/S values were measured and compared. It was observed that fibrillated lyocell shows lower visual colour yield than non-fibrillated lyocell, independent...

Electrical properties of epoxy resin–carbon black–silica nanocomposites are determined by conductive paths imparted by carbon black and influenced by a “network” of silica. Fractures are observed in nanocomposites with a high solids content, contributing to low conductivity. At these concentrations, the space occupied by the silica and carbon black...

Laser irradiation has been previously investigated for achieving uniform heating of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibres in the hot-drawing stage of the production process, so as to obtain better fibre mechanical properties. The optical properties and dye uptake of PET fibres also depend on the polymer chain orientation and crystallinity within...

Chlorhexidine (CH) is an effective antimicrobial agent. There has been very little work published concerning the interactions of CH with, and its adsorption mechanism on, cellulose. In this paper, such physical chemistry parameters are examined and related to computational chemistry studies. Adsorption isotherms were constructed following applicati...

Composite material has attracted increasingly remarked interest over the last few decades and set it apart in its own class due to its distinct properties. World annual production is over 10million tonnes and the market has in recent years been growing at 5–10% per annum. Among these materials, one subgroup, conductive polymer composite, has figure...

Nanocomposites were prepared by embedding carbon black and silica into phenolic resin matrix, which was supported by SEM and particle size analyses. After milling stage, the obtained hybrids were applied to transparency film using K control coater. By the crosslinking procedure, homogenous surface coatings can be achievable. The electrical properti...