Rafał Ostrowski

Rafał Ostrowski
Polish Academy of Sciences | PAN · Coastal Engineering and Dynamics

Professor

About

72
Publications
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913
Citations
Introduction

Publications

Publications (72)
Article
Full-text available
The present paper addresses the litho-dynamic and morpho-dynamic processes in the coastal zone of Babie Doły (KM 93.6–93.9), Poland. As a background, the history of coastal engineering measures in this area is described. The impact of post-war structures on the seashore is analysed on the basis of historical maps, supported by results of the sedime...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Drifters launched in the coastal zone of the southern shore of the Baltic Sea (26.10-14.11.2017) showed alongshore currents, rip currents and open sea circulation in the Gulf of Gdansk depending on the direction of approaching wind and wave to the shore.
Article
The paper presents results of experimental investigations of currents in the nearshore region of the south Baltic Sea. The analysis is based on the field data collected near Lubiatowo (Poland) using the measuring equipment which was simultaneously operated both by the Polish and Russian research teams. The venture was aimed at detection of rip curr...
Article
The paper presents results of considerations on possibility of bottom sandy sediment transport in the south Baltic remote foreshore under waves and currents. The analysis is based on theoretical modelling of nearbed motion of water and sand in conditions defined by the long-term wave-wind climate. The wave and wind data were collected near Lubiatow...
Article
Full-text available
The paper deals with the influence of the wave shape, represented by water surface elevations and wave-induced nearbed velocities, on sediment transport under joint wave-current impact. The focus is on the theoretical description of vertically asymmetric wave motion and the effects of wave asymmetry on net sediment transport rates during interactio...
Article
Full-text available
The paper deals with experimental and theoretical investigations of forces that drive sediment motion beyond the surf zone of the southern Baltic Sea. The study site is located in the sandy coastal zone at Lubiatowo (Poland). Field surveys were carried out by the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences (IBW PAN) and the Mar...
Article
Full-text available
The paper presents experimental and theoretical investigations of hydrodynamic processes in a coastal region located close to the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The analysis is based on field data collected near Lubiatowo (Poland) by measuring equipment operated simultaneously by the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Scien...
Article
Full-text available
The paper deals with research uncertainties, difficulties, inaccuracies and unreliabilities related to the modelling of physical phenomena involving coastal lithodynamics. The considerations are focused on processes of wave transformation, wave-driven currents and sediment transport itself. It is shown that possible inaccuracies at individual stage...
Article
Full-text available
The paper deals with a sandy shore located on the open sea side of the Hel Peninsula in Poland (the south Baltic Sea coast). The study site displays a cross-shore profile that intensively dissipates wave energy, mostly due to breaking. The theoretical modelling of wave transformation at this site reveals specific distributions of wave heights and b...
Article
Full-text available
The paper presents the results of studies on the long-term evolution of the multi-bar cross-shore profiles. The analysis is focused on time-dependent variability of shoreline position, a modified parameter A of the conventional Dean's equation and a parameter F describing the amount of nearshore sediment resources in the multi-bar cross-shore profi...
Article
Full-text available
The paper deals with the sandy coastal zone at Lubiatowo in Poland (the south Baltic Sea). The study comprises experimental and theoretical investigations of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes in the coastal region located close to the seaward boundary of the surf zone and beyond the surf zone. The analysis is based on field data collected at...
Article
Full-text available
The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of wave transformation in the surf zone near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly induced by breaking. The main field data comprise wave...
Article
Full-text available
The relationship between the effectiveness of groins and their technical condition was studied. The supporting role of groins in artificial shore nourishment was tested using the theoretical modeling of hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the nearshore zone. This modeling scheme was developed as to represent the actual coastal situation occ...
Chapter
Full-text available
Engineering solutions are widely used for the mitigation of flood and erosion risks and have new challenges because of the expected effects induced by climate change in particular sea level rise and increase of storminess.This chapter describes both active methods of mitigation based on the reduction of the incident wave energy, such as the use of...
Article
The paper contains a brief description of selected investigations carried out in the south Baltic coastal zone, with the particular focus on the history and recent activities conducted at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (CRS Lubiatowo), Poland. These activities comprise field investigations of nearshore hydrodynamic, lithodynamic, and mor...
Article
The paper deals with the growing threat of erosion to the south Baltic coast, caused by the intensification of a wind-induced wave climate and sea level rise, which is expected to continue until 2100 as a result of climate change. In the analysis, a deep-water wave prognostic point is located about 13 km north-east of the Hel Peninsula, situated in...
Article
Full-text available
The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave param...
Chapter
Existing coastal management and defense approaches are not well suited to meet the challenges of climate change and related uncertanities. Professionals in this field need a more dynamic, systematic and multidisciplinary approach. Written by an international group of experts, Coastal Risk Management in a Changing Climate provides innovative, multid...
Article
Full-text available
The paper describes lithodynamic and morphodynamic processes occurring in the main part of the south-eastern Baltic coastal area, namely on the sea shores from the Vistula mouth in the Gulf of Gdansk to the Lithuanian-Latvian border. The study area is subject to intensive natural coastal changes, as well as shore evolution caused by anthropogenic i...
Article
Full-text available
The system of timber palisade groins can be very helpful as a measure coexisting with artificial nourishment and increasing the lifetime of beach fills. To this end, good condition of groins and their permanent contact with land is necessary. On the basis of theoretical modelling and field surveys a conclusion has been formulated that coexistence o...
Article
Full-text available
This paper presents the results of studies of the physical processes observed in the coastal zone of the eastern part of the Gulf of Gdansk, from the Vistula river mouth (Poland) to Cape Taran (Russia, Kaliningrad Oblast), because it is under severe environmental and anthropogenic pressure. We present investigations of wind climate, wind-driven cur...
Article
Full-text available
A long wave run-up theory is applied to the modelling of wave-induced flow velocities, sediment transport rates and bottom changes in a swash zone. First, the properties of the water tongue motion and the resulting lithodynamic response are analysed theoretically. Next, an attempt is made to run the model for the natural conditions encountered on t...
Article
The present analysis, as a kind of case study, deals with the experimental research at two different coast sites of the South Baltic. The analysis of the driving forces caused by wave fields and so on, and the responses, like current circulations, sediment transport and morphological coastal changes, gave rise to the attempt of empirical descriptio...
Article
Full-text available
The paper discusses the notion of a layer of sandy sediments overlying a substratum of cohesive deposits in the coastal zone. This layer of sand is generally more mobile and is therefore conventionally referred to as the dynamic layer. Its parameters are important to coastal lithodynamic and morphodynamic processes caused by waves and currents. On...
Article
Full-text available
The paper analyses the results of field investigations into the evolution of the shoreline and dune toe positions in a multi-bar,dissipative coastal zone. The correlations between the changes in the shoreline and the dune toe range from -0.4 to 0.8. It is most often the case that the dune toe is stable while the shoreline moves. Consistent cross-sh...
Article
Full-text available
In order to make a navigable connection between the Vistula Lagoon and the Baltic Sea inde-pendent of an attitude of the Russian authorities, a cross-cut in the Polish part of the Vistula Spit is planned. The cross-cut will constitute an alternative waterway with respect to the existing one, leading through the Pilawa Strait which belongs to the Ru...
Article
The paper presents new findings concerning motion of water and sediment in the coastal zone of the east part of the Gulf of Gdańsk, from the Vistula River mouth at Świbno (Poland) to Cape Taran (Russia, Kaliningrad Oblast). The presented study deals with spatial variability of pa-rameters of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes which have been s...
Article
Full-text available
The paper presents an analysis of 40 years of measurements of geographic location (longitude, latitude) and power (wind speed) of tropical storms and typhoons over South-East Asia seas, mainly the South China Sea and the Philippine Sea. The results demonstrate the growing intensity of duration of the most severe events. The analysis includes singul...
Conference Paper
The study is based on field investigations and contains the analysis and empirical description of joint variability of a multi-bar cross-shore profile, shoreline and greater shoreline rhythmic forms as a function of wave climate – their major driver. The measuring site, namely the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo, is located on the dune coast,...
Article
Full-text available
The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate stat...
Article
Selected results of investigations concerning a shallow water part of the coastal zone, covering the surf zone and the swash zone, are presented. The above research has been carried out by means of field measurements, as well as data-driven and theoretical modelling. The investigations have led to development of a mathematical model of wave transfo...
Article
Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral...
Article
Two contrasting coastal profile models are applied to three bathymetries including a uniform gradient beach and natural profiles (multi-barred and multi-stepped) ob-tained from Lubiatowo, Poland and La Barrosa, Spain. The first model, developed at the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Science (IBW PAN) (Poland), couples a quas...
Article
The Vistula river estuary, located in the Gulf of Gdańsk, is the largest river mouth in the entire Baltic Sea catchment area. Thus, the assessment of the likelihood of flood events for this region has become a pressing issue. Such analyses should include the worst scenario of joint coastal extremes due to simultaneous high levels of water in the ri...
Article
Full-text available
The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breakin...
Article
Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed sheax stresses are solved using a momentum integral...
Article
The paper presents a comparative analysis of two different river mouths from two different geographical zones (subtropical and temperate climatic regions). One is the multi-branch and multi-spit mouth of the Red River on the Gulf of Tonkin (Vietnam), the other is the smaller delta of the river Vistula on a bay of the Baltic Sea (Poland). The analys...
Article
Full-text available
A vast marine alluvial fan in front of the artificial outlet of the Vistula constitutes a serious obstacle for water flow and sediment fluxes at the river-sea interface. Especially, in winter, this obstacle causes ice jams, which result in floods at adjacent, partly depressive, areas. Therefore, regulatory works need to be carried out periodically...
Article
Full-text available
The paper reviews recent progress in the investigations of nearshore litho- and morphodynamics at the Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Acad. of Sci. (IBW-PAN). It features both advanced physical modelling and data-driven analyses of nearshore processes, aimed at better understanding of mechanisms driving the evolution of a wave-dominated...
Article
The study is focused on the cross-shore transport of size-graded sediment under combined wave–current flow in the intensive flow regime. The mathematical method for the description of hydrodynamic processes and sediment transport is adapted from the approach of Kaczmarek and Ostrowski [Coast. Eng. 45 (2002) 1] for non-graded sediment. The theoretic...
Article
A way of modelling of the net sediment transport rate on a cross-shore profile and the resulting sea bed changes is presented. In the sediment transport computations, a three-layer model with a description of the bedload based on the water-soil mixture theory by Kaczmarek & Ostrowski (1998, 2002) is used. The modelling system is applied to wave-cur...
Article
The present study is focused on sand transport in combined wave–current flow (at any angle between them) in the intensive flow regime. The present model is based on the 1DV approximation. The mathematical method for the continuous description of processes from the immobile bed to the formation of sheet flow and suspended load is presented. The way...
Article
The paper presents the results of analyses of relationships between variability of shoreline position, grain size distributions of sediments and the wave climate at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo. The study reports the 2 year long field investigations, which have comprised registrations of shoreline evolution, grain size paramete...
Article
A way of modelling of the net sediment transport rate under shallow water asymmetric waves is presented. In the model, wave-induced nearbed horizontal velocity is described by the cnoidal theory and the 2nd order Stokes approximation. Theoretical results of the model are compared with the IBW PAN laboratory data.
Article
Full-text available
The coastline changes at Władysławowo harbour in Poland, characterised by distinct longshore sediment transport, were analysed using available field data. The computations of shoreline evolution were made using four models: genesis, litpack, unibest and IBW PAN software called sand94. The model results for shoreline changes were compared with respe...
Conference Paper
An extension of the bedload model of Kaczmarek & Ostrowski (1996), taking account of suspended sediment, is proposed for the calculation of sediment transport features, such as the transport rate and thickness. The paper is focused on the transition region (named as a contact load layer) between the outer region (suspension layer) and the bedload l...
Article
An extension of the bedload model of Kaczmarek & Ostrowski (1996), taking account of suspended sediment, is proposed for the calculation of sediment transport features, such as the transport rate and thickness. The paper is focused on the transition region (named as a contact load layer) between the outer region (suspension layer) and the bedload l...
Article
A contact load layer model is presented, dealing with the effect of suspended sediment on total sediment transport near the bed. The contact load layer is identified as the transition zone between the outer region (suspension layer) and the bedload layer. First, the physical aspects of momentum transfer are discussed and the contact layer is define...
Article
The results of laboratory bedload measurements are presented. The study comprises a wide range of regular-asymmetric and irregular wave conditions in the ripple regime. A new theoretical model of the moveable bed boundary layer is used for computation of sedimentation volume in the sand trap. The theoretical results are tested against experimental...
Article
A model of the turbulent boundary layer under irregular (random) waves is presented. The approach incorporates a time-invariant, two-layer eddy viscosity model including the representative parameters: friction velocity and bottom boundary layer thickness. The problem is closed by the iterative scheme for finding the wave period representing the ran...
Conference Paper
Empirical orthogonal functions in one-and two-dimensional formulation are employed to identify the variability of longshore and cross-shore features in different scales, ranging from days to years. The prototype topographic data was measured in coastal zones of the Baltic and Black Seas. Conspicuous features such as berms, bars, salients and cusps...
Article
Protection of sea coasts often refers to the manipulation of environmental processes on the level of coast within spatial and time scale. It should be aimed at coastline preservation together with saving of the natural environment. Within the worldwide trend in shore protection, activities friendly to environment have been lately very much preferre...
Article
Full-text available
The study is aimed at on the description of longshore and cross-shore currents at a bar crest and at an adjacent trough. Field measurements and theoretical modelling tested against and driven by the field data were carried out. The field data were collected during several field campaigns comprising a multi-bar coastal zone. The recent field investi...

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