Paulo Salles

Paulo Salles
Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México | UNAM · Institute of Engineering - LIPC Unidad Sisal

PhD in Coastal Engineering

About

106
Publications
24,666
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1,003
Citations
Introduction
Paulo Salles currently works at the Coastal Processes and Engineering Laboratory (LIPC), which he founded in 2009 as part of the Engineering Institute of the National University of Mexico (UNAM). Since 2016 it has 10 researchers in Coastal Physics and Engineering. Paulo also co-founded the National Coastal Resilience Laboratory (LANRESC) in 2015, which he leads since its creation. LANRESC is now designing 7 Coastal Transdisciplinary Observatories for long-term systematic monitoring of diverse environmental and socioeconomic variables in 7 relevant coastal social-ecological systems. His main scientific interest is in tidal inlet hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. Also, since 2016 he begins research on Coastal Geohydrology, creating in 2019-2021 a group at LIPC with three young scientists.
Additional affiliations
November 2000 - present
Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México
Position
  • Senior Researcher
Description
  • The LIPC concept was formally on 2009, and physically established in Sisal on 2012. My main interest is in Coastal Lagoon Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics, but I enjoy to study and participate in broader Coastal Physical Processes projects in general.

Publications

Publications (106)
Article
Full-text available
Multiple tidal inlet stability has been modeled following either a single-inlet stability approach or a simple linear analytical approach, and the results suggest that these systems are not stable. However, there is evidence that shallow multiple tidal inlet systems are strongly nonlinear and that they can be stable on a historical time scale.Based...
Article
Full-text available
Coastal flooding in the northern Yucatán Peninsula is mainly associated with storm surge events triggered by high-pressure cold front systems. This study evaluates the hydrodynamic processes of the Chelem lagoon, Mexico and the flooding threat from cold fronts for the neighbouring town of Progreso. A 30-year water-level hindcast (excluding wave set...
Article
A combination of observations and analytical solutions were used to determine the modifications caused by wind forcing on the residual or non-tidal circulation in an ebb-tidal delta. Observations were obtained in the lower Arcachon Lagoon, southwestern France. The basic non-tidal circulation was established with acoustic Doppler current profilers (...
Article
Full-text available
Sand spits are common in wave-dominated environments; with enough sand supply, they can evolve to affect circulation and navigation in channels or inlets. The focus of this paper is on the navigation channel of the Sisal Port, located on the northwestern Yucatan Peninsula (YP) coast, where a sand spit grew and was monitored from its formation (June...
Article
Full-text available
Video monitoring has become an indispensable tool to understand beach processes. However, the measurement accuracy derived from the images has been taken for granted despite its dependence on the calibration process and camera movements. An easy to implement self-fed image stabilization algorithm is proposed to solve the camera movements. Georefere...
Article
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Springs are common features on the Yucatán coast. They can discharge either under the sea (submarine) or inland in coastal lagoons and wetlands. Previous observations of a coastal lagoon located on the northern Yucatán Peninsula (La Carbonera) reported sea water intrusion on a spring that discharge on a coastal lagoon (lagoon tidal spring). The sal...
Article
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The existence of morphodynamic equilibria of double‐inlet systems is investigated using a cross‐sectionally averaged morphodynamic model. The number of possible equilibria and their stability strongly depend on the forcing conditions and geometry considered. This is illustrated by considering a rectangular double‐inlet system forced by M2 tidal con...
Article
Full-text available
Despite the low occurrence of tropical cyclones at the archipelago of San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina (Colombia), Hurricane Iota in 2020 made evident the area vulnerability to tropical cyclones as major hazards by obliterating 56.4 % of housing, partially destroying the remaining houses in Providencia. We investigated the hurricane stor...
Article
Full-text available
Numerical modelling is increasingly used as a tool for improving management strategies in aquifers and to support the design of comprehensive projects considering natural and anthropogenic processes. Overall, numerical simulation in karstic aquifers poses a major scientific challenge due to the non-Darcian groundwater flow dynamics. In specific cas...
Article
Friction velocity (u*) is an important velocity scale used in the study of engineering and geophysical flows. The widespread use of 2D sonic anemometers in modern meteorological stations makes the estimation of u* from just the horizontal components of the velocity a very attractive possibility. The presence of different wind regimes (such as sea b...
Article
Full-text available
The northern Yucatan peninsula is prone to coastal flooding and erosion owing to its low-land elevation and high exposure to storms. Therefore, it is important to assess the capability of the beach-dune system to resist, recover, and adapt from storms in the context of coastal development and climate change. This work aims to investigate the role o...
Article
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This study presents a new approach to assess storm surge risk from tropical cyclones under climate change by direct calculation of the local flood levels using a limited number of events with an associated probability. The approach is based on the near-worst-case flood scenario, associated with a known tropical cyclone wind intensity probability (r...
Article
Full-text available
Coastal aquifers are characterized by a mixing zone with freshwater–saltwater interactions, which have a strong relationship with hydrological forcings such as astronomical and storm tides, aquifer recharge and pumping effects. These forcings govern the aquifer hydraulic head, the spatial distribution of groundwater salinity and the saline interfac...
Article
Full-text available
This study applies three different methods to assess the flood risk and damage from the strongest high-pressure cold front (locally known as 'Norte') event in terms of the residual tide from 30 years (1979-2008) of data for Progreso, Yucatan. The most important difference between the three methods is the estimation of flood vulnerability for Progre...
Article
Full-text available
We investigate the storm impact associated with historical events in the northern Yucatan Peninsula. The study area is prone to coastal flooding due to both its geographical location and low-lying areas. Extreme events associated with tropical cyclones and Central American cold surge (CACS; locally known as Nortes) are ubiquitous in this region, an...
Article
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Debido a la posición geográfica del archipiélago de San Andrés, Providencia y Santa Catalina (SPSC), esta es la parte del territorio colombiano más expuesto a ser inundado por marea de tormenta generada por ciclones tropicales (CT). Entre los peligros asociados a los CT, las inundaciones suelen ocasionar los mayores daños. En este estudio se evalúa...
Article
Full-text available
Wave and wind forces from tropical cyclones are one of the main design parameters of coastal and offshore infrastructure in tropical areas. The estimation of ocean waves parameters in the design of structures in tropical areas is difficult due to the complexity of wind fields associated with tropical cyclones. The use of numerical wave models, forc...
Poster
Full-text available
Coastal aquifers are characterized by the interaction between the aquifer and the sea, defining a mixing zone of saltwater-freshwater. Thus, coastal aquifers have a strong synergy with hydrological forcings, such as astronomical and storm tides, aquifer recharge and pumping effects. These forcings govern the aquifer head, the spatial distribution o...
Poster
Full-text available
Storm surge is one of the greatest hazards associated with hurricanes in coastal areas. The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (AR5, 2013) states that the warming of the system is "unequivocal" and, nevertheless, "there is low confidence in region-specific projections of storms" and, therefore, the associated storm surge. The assessment of t...
Article
Shoreline change is an important morphological feature used to identify impacts on coastal processes caused by coastal infrastructure or natural conditions (e.g., storms or sea level rise), providing insightful information for coastal and shoreline management. While shoreline measurements are not always available, remote sensing data can provide sh...
Article
Full-text available
In this study, the first ever Sea, Lake, Overland Surges from Hurricanes (SLOSH) grid was built for the Yucatan Peninsula. The SLOSH model was used to simulate storm surges in the coastal area of the states of Yucatan and Campeche (Mexico). Based on climatology, more than 39,900 hypothetical hurricanes covering all possible directions of motion wer...
Article
Full-text available
Low-crested detached breakwaters (LCDBs) have been widely employed as a mitigation measure against beach erosion. However, only a few studies have assessed their performance in sea-breeze-dominated environments. This work investigates the beach morphodynamics behind LCDBs deployed on a micro-tidal sea-breeze-dominated beach. The study area, located...
Article
Full-text available
Sandy beaches provide habitat and natural protection to coastal areas against extreme events. Beach erosion is ubiquitous of coastlines around the world and is very important given the implications in the loss of land and infrastructure in coastal areas. This problem is particularly relevant in low-lying coasts, with shallow and extended continenta...
Poster
Full-text available
Preliminar calibration of numerical model in Yucatan northwest karstic coastal aquifer
Chapter
Full-text available
Numerical modelling is increasingly used as a tool for improving management strategies in aquifers and as support in the design of comprehensive approaches considering natural and man-induced processes. Overall, numerical simulation in karstic aquifers poses a scientific challenge, due to the non-Darcian groundwater flow dynamics. However, simplifi...
Article
Full-text available
Coastal flooding in the northern Yucatán Peninsula is mainly associated with storm surge events triggered by high-pressure cold front systems. This study evaluates the hydrodynamic processes of the Chelem lagoon, Mexico and the flooding threat from cold fronts for the neighbouring town of Progreso. A 30-year water-level hindcast (excluding wave set...
Poster
Full-text available
The coastal areas of the Yucatan Peninsula typically present a zone of transition from coast to continent that represents a change from submerged sandbars to mangroves and lagoons, and into short tropical forest (deciduous and evergreen). Adequate characterization of the lithological contacts and the subsurface structure is critical for an adequate...
Chapter
Full-text available
Wind related research, carried out in the Laboratorio de Ingeniería y Procesos Costeros del Instituto de Ingeniería de la UNAM (LIPC) at Sisal, Yucatán is revisited. Some experimental results, obtained with a 50 m meteorological mast equipped with sonic anemometers (between 2010 and 2016) are discussed, along with some unpublished results and LIDAR...
Article
Full-text available
We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at a location on a barrier island in Yucatán (Mexico). Wave information from a 30-year wave hindcast is validated with in situ measurements at 8 m water depth. The maximum dissimilarity algorithm is employed for the selection of 600 representative cases, encompassi...
Article
Full-text available
We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at a location on a barrier island in Yucatan (Mexico). Wave information from a 30 year wave hindcast is validated with in situ measurements at 8 m water depth. The Maximum Dissimilarity Algorithm is employed for the selection of 600 representative cases, encompassi...
Article
Full-text available
We investigate the wave energy potential in the Caribbean Sea using a 30-year wave hindcast. Wave energy in enclosed sea basins, such as the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, is commonly associated with lower energy production rates. However, an easterly zonal wind reaching 13 m/s, known as the Caribbean Low-Level Jet (CCLJ), is shown to contro...
Article
Full-text available
Copyright (2015) AIP Publishing. This article may be downloaded for personal use only. Any other use requires prior permission of the author and AIP Publishing. The following article appeared in (Esquivelzeta-Rabell, F. M. et al. Physics of Fluids (1994-present), 27(1), 014108.) and may be found at (http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.4906153). Laminar Co...
Article
The Gulf of Mexico is a privilege natural area of great ecological importance. On its coastal zone, different important economic activities converge like oil extraction, fisheries tourism, etc. That require precise scientific studies for its correct management and administration. In this work we present the plans towards the creation of the Mexica...
Poster
Full-text available
A comprehensive field experiment devoted to the study of coastal processes on a micro-tidal beach was conducted from March 30th to April 12th 2014 in Sisal, Yucatán México. Wave conditions in the study area are controlled by local (i.e., sea-breezes) and meso-scale (i.e., Nortes) meteorological events. Simultaneous measurements of waves, tides, win...
Article
Full-text available
This work evaluates the effect of potential increases in mean sea levels on the morphology of a lagoon system using a stability analysis of the lagoon's inlet with the sea. To this end, the study was divided into two phases: a) obtaining the maritime climate through a time-series resulting from a historical retro-analysis to identify the main ocean...
Article
Full-text available
This work evaluates the effect of potential increases in mean sea levels on the morphology of a lagoon system using a stability analysis of the lagoon's inlet with the sea. To this end, the study was divided into two phases: a) obtaining the maritime climate through a time-series resulting from a historical retro-analysis to identify the main ocean...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
The knowledge of wave loads and wave overtopping over platforms is of paramount importance for the structural design. Wave breaking on structures induces a turbulent multi-phase flow and hence its characterization represents a challenging task for both experimentalists and numerical modelers. More recently, the Bubble Image Velocimetry technique ha...
Article
Experimental results concerning turbulence in a coastal zone are presented. The presence of internal boundary layers and advection in complex terrain precludes the use of Monin–Obukhov similarity theory (MOST) to estimate effective values of the turbulent transport (of momentum and heat) parameters. However, the use of local Monin–Obukhov similarit...
Article
Full-text available
This paper describes wave climate and variability in the Gulf of Mexico based on a 30-years wave hindcast. The North American Regional Reanalysis wind fields (NCEP at NOAA) are employed to drive a third generation spectral wave model with high- spatial (0.005° - 0.06°) and temporal (3 hourly) resolution from 1979 through 2008. The wave hindcast inf...
Article
Full-text available
Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2001 The importance of the persistence of multiple inlets in coastal systems is fundamental for issues such as water quality, navigability, and beach/barrier s...
Article
Full-text available
Wind power density, vertical velocity profiles, and other wind characteristics were established using a 51 m meteorological mast located very close to the shoreline on the northwest of the Yucatan peninsula in the Gulf of Mexico. A comparative study of the wind power density was carried out using information obtained between September 2010 and Sept...
Article
Full-text available
A preliminary coastal hazard potential assessment due to storm impacts in terms of erosion and flooding for the Yucatan coast is presented. Firstly, a 30-year wave hindcast is employed in order to characterize the coastal storms by creating a 5-class storm scale in terms of wave information. Subsequently, the storm classification is converted to on...
Article
Full-text available
This paper evaluates the wave modeling performance in the Gulf of Mexico and Western Caribbean Sea employing three different wind reanalysis data. Wind reanalysis is employed as the main forcing in wave generation/propagation numerical models. While the National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP)/National Center for Atmospheric Research (N...
Article
Full-text available
Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon are investigated by means of a phase-resolving non-hydrostatic wave model (SWASH). This model solves the nonlinear shallow water equations including non-hydrostatic pressure. The one-dimensional version of the model is implemented in order to investigate wave transformatio...
Book
Full-text available
The Yucatan coastline has been experiencing beach erosion during the past few decades; the erosion has reached critical points at some locations such as the Chelem beach, located near the Progreso Pier. Despite this problem, only few studies have been devoted in order to investigate the role of coastal structures on explaining the high erosion rate...
Article
Full-text available
This paper presents a qualitative assessment of coastal processes along the northern coast of the Yucatan Peninsula based on a method used to estimate the potential longshore sediment transport. Despite the deep-water low-energy wave conditions (Hs 5 1 m) in the study area, erosion is critical in many locations, including the urbanized stretches of...
Poster
Full-text available
Wave model Third generation spectral wave model MIKE 21 SW model was used using mesh and bathymetry shown in Fig. 2. The model is formulated in terms of mean wave direction, θ, and the relative angular frequency, σ, where the action density, N(σ,θ) is related to the energy density, E(σ,θ) by: For large applications, the wave action balance equation...
Article
Full-text available
The International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE) is a biennial conference held under the auspices of the Coastal Engineering Research Council of the COPRI (Coasts, Oceans, Ports, Rivers Institute) of the American Society of Civil Engineers. The Proceedings of the ICCE are provided here, with papers covering a wide range of topics includin...
Article
Full-text available
Thesis (M.S. in Civil and Environmental Engineering)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1997. Includes bibliographical references: p. 96-99.
Article
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This paper investigates the influence of the current and the tide on the wave propagation in the channels of the Arcachon basin. The study is based on two- month hydrodynamic in-situ measurements and a 2DH model using MARS 2DH and SWAN codes. The first results show a good agreement between the results of the model and the measurements. The velociti...
Conference Paper
The hydrodynamic response of Terminos Lagoon to the passage of Hurricane Isidore is presented. The field data analysis shows the changes of the hydrodynamic currents in the Carmen and Puerto Real inlets, as well as the water level elevation in the marine front and the interior of the Terminos Lagoon, due to the storm surge from the ocean, and the l...
Conference Paper
This paper presents the analysis of the evolution of the Cancun Beach Nourishment, in Quintana Roo, México. The nourishment project was based on the analysis of four beach profile sets (1985, 1989, 2000, and 11/2005, after hurricane Wilma), high resolution satellite images, wave data and native sediment samples from Cancun Beach. After Wilma the re...