Patricia Campos

University of São Paulo | USP · Departamento de Ciências Farmacêuticas (FCFRP) (Ribeirão Preto)

Background Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well‐established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non‐invasive and non‐destructive in vivo analysis wi...

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory proper...

The exposome consists of several factors such as solar radiation and pollution, which can provoke skin damage and lead to premature skin aging. Thus, the use of multifunctional sunscreens is critical in order to prevent this damage. In addition, film formation is very important to reach the expected SPF. Within this context, the objective of the pr...

The film-forming effect is an important property of formulations for skin improvement and hair protection. Reflectance confocal microscopy, an advanced imaging technique, is an important tool for its evaluation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the film‐forming properties of cosmetic formulations based on starches and containing a Spirul...

Background: Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development...

Background: Of the many effects induced by UV radiation on the skin, erythema is one of the most well-known features, which is a cutaneous inflammatory reaction correlated with acute photodamage. The utilization of sunscreen may reduce this process. Aims: To evaluate the utilization of a sunscreen SPF50 with high antioxidant capacity during 15 d...

The photoaging process is characterized by skin changes due to ultraviolet radiation exposure and is the principal environmental factor affecting skin aging. Reflectance confocal microscopy permits noninvasive skin imaging to understand how the photoaging process may change skin. Since men do not habitually use a sunscreen, the application of skin...

The aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evalua...

Background: Previous studies have demonstrated that UVB radiation may cause changes in the epidermal permeability barrier and in the stratum corneum hydration. It is also well known that sun exposure causes erythema, skin cancer and other physiologic alterations. Furthermore, because of the cultural barrier, men usually apply less sunscreen. Aims...

Objective To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus, and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies. Methods The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman...

Oily skin has special needs, as the treatment and prevention of non-inflammatory acne and sebum control, maintaining skin barrier function and hydration. In this context, the importance of the development of specific and innovative cosmetics formulations to to fulfill the needs of this type of skin is evident. In this view, the aim of this study wa...

The effect of collagen peptides on various aspects of skin and hair physiology is known but needs further studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the clinical changes in skin and hair after 90 days of treatment with oral supplementation of 5 g/day of collagen peptides. For this, 60 healthy female participants were enrolled, aged...

Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) is a non-invasive imaging technique with near-histological resolution that allows evaluation of the morphological and structural characteristics of the skin. In this context, the aim of the study was to evaluate the influence of the application of a cosmetic formulation on the skin morphological characteristics...

Application of plasticization technol-ogy to sunscreen formulations using starches and polyols was proposed and had provided a good improvement in the sunscreen efficacy in previous studies. In this work we prepared sunscreen formulations based on plasticization technology, analyzing the composition, superficial distribution, sensory properties and...

Background: Gel-cream formulations used as cosmetics can present various textures. They may be fluid or semisolid, being highly influenced by their composition. These presentations require a complete study to obtain information about the physical stability and consistency of the product and the possible interaction between its compounds. In this co...

Collagen and its peptides are natural ingredients used in food supplements and nutricosmetics with the claim of providing benefits for skin health and beauty. In this context, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of oral supplementation with hydrolyzed fish cartilage for the improvement of chronological and photoaging-...

Most modern sunscreens contain physical filters, which scatter the sunlight, increasing the photons' pathway in the upper stratum corneum. This effect can lead to a better efficacy of the UV filters and improve the diffuse reflection. However, the addition of nanosized inorganic UV filters reduces the antioxidant capacity of sunscreen formulations....

Background There is currently a great interest not only in developing products for the protection and recovery of chemically damaged hair, but also in developing effective protocols to investigate the impact of chemical treatments and attest the efficacy of innovative hair care products. Among the most relevant cosmetic treatments for hair are blea...

Objective Differences in skin physiology and lifestyle among people can influence the skin damage caused by solar radiation. Photoprotection habits play an important role to prevent skin photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the skin changes resulting from solar exposure in young men by skin imaging techniques. Metho...

The sun protection factor (SPF) is related to the selected UV filters. The objective of this study was to evaluate and compare the rheological behavior and texture profile of two sunscreen formulations and to correlate these data with the obtained SPF values. Two formulations (F1 and F2) were developed with the same type and amount of UV filters –...

Photoprotective formulations containing substances with antioxidant properties in combination have been used as a strategy for the improvement of photoaged skin conditions. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the clinical efficacy of these substances in young women with signs of photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to...

The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation emitted by the sun are cumulative and can result in chemical changes such as the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to the regular use of sunscreen. As an alternative, the use of antioxidants, such as quercetin, into sunscreen can control these effects and provide additional skin photoprot...

Background: Some in vitro studies have reported the potential of antioxidants for the reduction of melanogenesis. However, it is important to assess the clinical efficacy of these substances in reducing skin hyperpigmentation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations based on antioxidants usin...

[This corrects the article DOI: 10.3389/fphys.2019.00254.].

Cosmetics with anti-aging effects using ingredients of sustainable origin are increasing in the cosmetic market. This study aimed to evaluate the physical-mechanical and sensory properties and immediate clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations with ingredients from natural sources to which were added or not (vehicle only) ascorbic acid (AAS) or a...

A sunscreen should form a stable and homogeneous film over the skin surface, which can improve its photoprotective activity and avoid adverse effects. For this purpose, the definition of the appropriate vehicle is of fundamental importance since emulsifying agents are known to directly influence the stability, sensorial properties and surface tensi...

The texture properties of formulations can be related to their sensory properties, and the correct choice of raw materials is an important tool to improve the sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations. This way, the objective of this study was to evaluate the physical-mechanical properties of different polymers applied in the cosmetic formulati...

Objective: Brazil and France are two major beauty markets worldwide. Despite this, there is not much cross-information on sensory analysis of cosmetic products between both population of these countries. The objective of this study was to compare the sensory perception of cosmetic formulations between Brazilian and French assessors and establish c...

Objective: Products with film-forming effect, or "second skin", which guarantees an immediate protective effect after application, is a highlight, especially when composed of natural ingredients. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the immediate film-forming effect on skin of a gel and emulsion formulations added with Kappaphycus alv...

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a common pigmentary disorder in patients with pigmented skin. Histological and clinical exams have been used for the diagnosis of PIH and to determine the correct treatment. However, Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) has the potential to replace these methods since it is a noninvasive advanced techni...

Considering the importance of an adequate composition of the formulation in the development of stable, safe and effective cosmetic products, experimental design techniques are tools that can optimize the formulation development process. The objective of this study was to develop topical formulations using the Box-Behnken design with response surfac...

Background All over the world, people face the same skin problems. However, their skin characteristics are different. Thus, it is a challenge to prescribe treatments that will be effective on different skin types. Therefore, it is very important to consider the skin biology when indicating a dermocosmetic treatment. Objectives To assess skin bioph...

Background/aims: The selection of suitable raw materials in the cosmetic research and development is a key point, not only in order to obtain the expected results but also to avoid undesirable side effects. This study evaluated the in vitro toxicity potential of four different plant extracts and their in vivo acceptability studies. Methods: Spir...

Excessively oily skin leads to clinical signs that cause discomfort to patients, such as excessive shine, enlarged pores, acne, and an imbalance of the hydrolipidic layer. In this context, a constant demand for the research and development of products that prevent these features, has been noted in the field of cosmetics and dermatology. Thus, the o...

Acne is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous follicles that affects 80% of the population. As topical agents for acneic skin treatment are often irritants, dermocosmetics, may improve therapy. Thus, we developed cosmetic formulations with nicotinamide (vitamin B3), pyridoxine tris-hexyldecanoate (a vitamin B6 derivative) and zinc- p...

Technological progress has allowed women to change their natural hair configuration according to their will. This type of treatment is very popular around the world, even involving the use of prohibited chemicals, such as formaldehyde. Studies of hair characterization, straighteners and toxic evaluation are available in the literature, although few...

Objective: to evaluate the safety of a topical formulation containing chamomile microparticles coated with chitosan in the skin of healthy participants. Method: phase I blind, controlled, non-randomized, single-dose clinical trial with control for skin, base formulation, and formulation with microparticles. The variables analyzed were irritation an...

The objective of the present study was to develop, characterize and evaluate the clinical efficacy of topical formulations containing or not active substances and UV-filters, separate and in combination. To this end a stable formulation was developed to which four aqueous active substances and four lipophilic UV-filters were added. The formulations...

The research and development of cosmetic products is closely related to society modifications, as it must fulfil constantly changing consumer needs. More than only using, people often seek the cosmetic market to express their individuality in a varied way. For the development of this study, a bibliographical review of the pertinent literature relat...

The interaction between cosmetic emulsions and the skin’s surface is an important factor to consider in the development of topical formulations. Two important ingredients in cosmetic formulations are waxes and polymers. The physical and mechanical properties of formulations directly impact the interface skin-formulation. To evaluate this interactio...

Background: The skin is a complex biological system and may suffer change according to the environmental factors, as higher temperatures can increase sebum excretion, presenting oiliness and acne. These alterations can persist during the aging and provoke more changes in aged skin. In this study we evaluated the mature oily skin characteristics us...

Nanostructured lipid lipid carriers (NLC) are the second generation of lipid nanoparticles created to overcome some problems of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). NLCs are composed by a mixture of solid and liquid lipids, usually in a ratio up to 70:30. The addition of a liquid lipid in the formulation promotes changes in the structure of the nanopar...

Introduction: Photoaging and melasma are frequent dermatological complaints. Confocal reflectance microscopy (CRM) is a recent technique that can be used for diagnostic evaluation of these dermatoses. Objectives: To evaluate the characteristics of the epidermis and dermis containing pigmentary alterations caused by photodamage and melasma with the...

Dry skin is characterized as a rough and scaling skin surface. It usually has lower water content than normal skin. Vitamin D helps to regulate cellular proliferation and differentiation andcan help to protect skin from environmental factors. However, the stability vitamin D in cosmetic formulations is low. Thus, the aim of this study was to evalua...

Objective: Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of the present study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formul...

This study describes the development, validation and application of a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the simultaneous determination of the in vitro skin penetration profile of four UV filters on porcine skin. Experiments were carried out on a gel-cream formulation containing the following UV filters: diethylamino hydroxybe...

Objective: The correct choice of raw materials in the development of cosmetic formulations is essential for obtaining stable and pleasant skin care products. Therefore, rheological, texture and sensory analyses are important to understand the behavior and stability of the formulations. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop c...

Cutaneous irritants exposure induces an excess of ROS in the skin and can ensue an inflammatory response. Topical antioxidant-based formulations can help to counteract ROS generation. This study evaluated the influence of antioxidant-based topical formulations on the inflammatory response of skin, using a combination of in vivo real-time non-invasi...

The literature claims that incorporation of antioxidants into sunscreens provides additional skin photoprotection by scavenging free radicals formed due to sun radiation, but there are limited in vivo studies that support this hypothesis. This study aims to examine whether addition of antioxidants to a broad-spectrum sunscreen increases its photopr...

Background/aim: The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar r...

The literature claims that incorporation of antioxidants into sunscreens provides additional skin photoprotection by scavenging free radicals formed due to sun radiation, but there are limited in vivo studies that support this hypothesis. This study aims to examine whether addition of antioxidants to a broad-spectrum sunscreen increases its photopr...

Background/purpose: Hair straighteners are very popular around the world, although they can cause great damage to the hair. Thus, the characterization of the mechanical properties of curly hair using advanced techniques is very important to clarify how hair straighteners act on hair fibers and to contribute to the development of effective products...

The use of plants have become a important trend in cosmetic market, with a crescent number of patent applications. Despite various herbal-based ingredients have been described in scientific literature, most of them are restricted to patent databases. In this work we analyze the innovative use of plants and its derivatives in cosmetic technologies,...

Lipid nanoparticles have shown many advantages for treatment/prevention of skin disorders with damaged skin barrier function. Beeswax is a favorable candidate for the development of nanosystems in the cosmetic and dermatological fields because of its advantages for the development of products for topical application. In the present study, beeswax-b...

Background: Cutaneous hyperchromias are disorders of skin pigmentation involving an increase of melanin production and its irregular accumulation in skin cells. It is known that the use of sunscreens helps to prevent changes in the skin pigmentation pattern, but the structural and morphological alterations that occur in the different types of hype...

The reflectance confocal microscopy is a very important and widely used technique to evaluate the morphological and structural characteristics of the skin, including the photoaging effects on the epidermis and dermal-epidermal junction. The analyses are made with the equipment VivaScope 1500®, which utilizes a laser beam of 35 mW, in a near-infrare...

The reflectance confocal microscopy is a very important and widely used technique to evaluate the morphological and structural characteristics of the skin, including the photoaging effects on the epidermis and dermal-epidermal junction. The analyses are made with the equipment VivaScope 1500®, which utilizes a laser beam of 35 mW, in a near-infrare...

During the aging process, the human skin suffers many alterations including dryness, skin barrier function damage. The skin barrier function is important to the prevention of skin alterations and maintenance of homeostasis. So, the objective of this study was to assess the clinical efficacy on skin barrier function of Cichorium intybus root extract...

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the stability of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts of Açai, Chamomile and Green Tea, promising adjuvants in cosmetic preparations. The extracts were previously submitted to photostability and antioxidant activity studies. Antioxidant activity was determined by chemiluminescence and...

Context: Unsaponifiable matter (UM), a fraction of green coffee oil (GCO) contains functional compounds responsible for desirable cosmetic properties such as UV-B absorption. Objectives: To evaluate oil content and SPF variability of the two most important species of coffee and, the toxic and cytotoxic effects, as well as cosmetic properties inc...

Introduction: Cosmetics stands outs in commerce, not only in Brazil but also worldwide. There is great need for knowledge on buying motivations of consumers for the development of better-targeted products and improved adhesion to dermatological treatments. Objective: To know the cosmetic consumption habits and provide a link from the pharmaceutical...

In recent years, various dietary supplements have been released in the market with the promise of health benefits and functional properties. New trends involving nutrition have been highlighted due to the potential effects of certain food ingredients in the cutaneous aging process, the healthy appearance of skin, hair and nails. Looking at the grow...

Background: Knowledge of skin biology and its alterations in different populations is very important for the development of appropriate skin care strategies. Objectives: To evaluate and compare morphological, structural and biophysical properties of photoaged skin in French and Brazilian populations using biophysical and skin imaging techniques....

The aim of this study was to assess the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, red algae, Porphyra umbilicalis, extracts and combinations of the extract with vitamins and Ginkgo biloba through the use of in vivo preclinical studies. For this study, 4 groups of 4 hairless mice each were treated with topical formulati...