Pascal Bruniaux

Pascal Bruniaux
Ecole d'ingénierie et d'innovation textile | ENSAIT · Apparel Department

About

165
Publications
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2,313
Citations

Publications

Publications (165)
Article
Full-text available
This study aims to achieve intelligent monitoring of clothing comfort in motion, providing data and technical assistance for the research of comfort in motion and an efficient design foundation for sportswear comfort optimization. In view of the present situation of smart wear used in clothing comfort research, this paper primarily presents the con...
Article
Garment pattern-making is one of the most important parts of the apparel industry. However, traditional pattern-making is an experience-based work, very time-consuming and ignores the body shape difference. This paper proposes a parametric design method for garment pattern based on body dimensions acquired from a body scanner and body features (bod...
Chapter
Commercial garment recommendation systems have been generally used in the apparel industry. However, existing research on digital garment design has focused on the technical development of the virtual design process, with little knowledge of traditional designers. The fit of a garment has a significant role in whether a customer purchases that garm...
Article
At present, garment e-commerce is developing rapidly, and the number of online shopping has increased significantly. In this context, the intelligent evaluation technology of garment fit is particularly important. Fit is the most basic requirement in the process of human dressing. It is of great significance to study the relationship between garmen...
Article
Full-text available
The fashion industry is facing increasing pressure to move toward sustainable development, especially with concern to cost and environmental sustainability. Innovative digital technologies are regarded as a promising solution for fashion companies to resolve this issue. In this context, this paper put forth a new 3D reverse garment design approach...
Article
Full-text available
Fit evaluation plays an important role in garment products development and sales. Effective clothing fit evaluation methods can reduce the development cost of apparel products and the return rate of online apparel sales. In this research, we proposed an intelligent fit evaluation technology to predict clothing fit. The mathematical relationship mod...
Article
Full-text available
This paper put forward a new interactive design approach for customized garments towards sustainable fashion using machine learning techniques, including radial basis function artificial neural network (RBF ANN), genetic algorithms (GA), probabilistic neural network (PNN), and support vector regression (SVR). First, RBF ANNs were employed to estima...
Article
Full-text available
The shoe last is an essential element because the style, fit and comfort of a shoe depend on its design, shape and volume. The shape of the shoe last is essentially linked to the dimensions of the foot to ensure comfort and good development of the foot for a chosen style. Therefore, a functional analysis of the shoe last is crucial to better unders...
Article
Full-text available
In order to study the comfort of tight-fitting sportswear in winter, this paper designed a series of motions, and explored the distribution of comfort perception under different sports conditions by evaluating the wearing perception of human body. Finally, through the acquired experimental data, intelligent prediction models were established, and t...
Article
The 2D pattern-making methods which are entirely based on body measurements are widely used and practiced to design garments in today’s digital environment. Such a method is highly criticized due to a lack of consideration for the body's different morphological and anthropometric data. However, such a method would be effective with many precise and...
Article
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to build a mathematical model of men’s wear prototype, so that the computer can draw men’s wear prototype automatically. Design/methodology/approach First, the bust line, front and back center line, waist line, side seam, front chest width and back width line in the coordinate system are expressed by equations....
Article
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Three dimensional (3D) warp interlock fabric becomes a promising structure due to its good mechanical performances. However, its complex manufacturing process can cause severe yarn damage and affects its overall final performances. The current study addressed the effects weaving process and warp yarn ratios on the multi-filaments yarn degradations...
Article
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In this study, the distribution characteristics and changing law of sports comfort perception were analyzed by collecting the comfort evaluation data of running in winter tight sportswear, and proposes a network model based on particle swarm optimization-cuckoo search-long short-term memory to track the changing law of motion comfort. First, consid...
Article
Full-text available
This paper presents a garment design recommendation system based on two mathematical models that permit the prediction and control of garment styles and structural parameters from a consumer’s personalized requirements in terms of fitting and aesthetics. Based on a formalized professional garment knowledge base, enabling the quantitative characteri...
Article
Full-text available
Currently, garment fit evaluation is one of the biggest bottlenecks for fashion design and manufacturing. In this paper, we proposed a garment fit prediction model using data learning technology based on Artificial Neural Networks. The inputs of the proposed model are digital clothing pressures measured by virtual try-on, while the output of the mo...
Article
The current three-dimensional human models used in the apparel industry are mostly rigid and lack semantic information on body positions and body parts. Therefore, it is difficult for designers to make accurate, fast and effective designs from these models. This paper proposes a new parametric three-dimensional human body model based on key positio...
Chapter
Personal protective body armor is one of the most important pieces of equipment which helps to guard human beings from different kinds of critical and fatal injuries. Besides, for the last few decades’, women’s participation has been also significantly increased in various threat exposed tasks such as military, law enforcement offices, personal gua...
Article
In order to improve the efficiency and accuracy of predicting the thermal and moisture comfort of skin-tight clothing (also called skin-tight underwear), principal component analysis(PCA) is used to reduce the dimensions of related variables and eliminate the multicollinearity relationship among variables. Then, the optimized variables are used as...
Article
Full-text available
Textile materials can be used as a soft solution to protect the human body of the soldier and as a hard solution to provide more efficient armour for various types of vehicles. Their advantages are numerous in terms of performance versus weight, forming ability and availability of different types of high-performance yarns. Special attention has bee...
Article
Focusing on the “human–sport-clothing” system, this paper analyzed the influence of combinations of different tights and sport states on human body parts and overall body comfort from multiple dimensions. However, the motion state and some fabric parameters are non-numerical parameters, which could not be used for model analysis directly. In additi...
Article
Full-text available
In order to study the influence of human body parts on the overall comfort under different sports conditions, this paper designed a series of actions such as standing, squatting, running, walking, and so on, and obtained the key parts that affected the overall comfort at every experimental stage (i.e. every motion state) through subjective evaluati...
Preprint
Full-text available
Currently, garment fit evaluation is one of the biggest bottlenecks for fashion design and manufacturing. In this paper, we proposed a garment fit prediction model using data learning technology, such as Back Propagation Artificial Neural Networks (BP-ANNs), Random Forest, Bayesian Classifier. The inputs of the proposed model are digital clothing p...
Article
Full-text available
Scoliosis is a deformity of the spine that causes disorders of the rib cage. This makes it difficult to design clothes for affected people without following the shape of the rib cage. This paper presents a new 3D clothing design method based on virtual reality for women with physical disabilities such as scoliosis. The current design method is a va...
Article
Full-text available
Comfort can be considered as subjective feeling, which could be affected by the external ambient, by the physical activity, and by clothing. Considering the human body heat transfer system, it mainly depends on various parameters including clothing materials, external and internal environment, etc. The purpose of the current paper is to study and e...
Article
The relationship between garment design parameters, wearer morphology, posture, fabric properties and ease allowance values is very complex and uncertain due to the presence existence of various human factors related to designer and consumer perception. The aim of this work is to set up a series of mathematical models to characterize and determine...
Article
In the fashion industry, garment sizing is a challenging issue and involves different problems resulting in lost profits. The design of a sizing system is a complex task involving both anthropometric data and subjective data, such as comfort or fit. With the emergence of big data, companies can collect valuable information about their consumers and...
Book
Full-text available
Modern industry can produce composite materials with a wide range of mechanical properties applicable in the medicine, aviation, and automotive industries, etc. However, the construction industry is responsible for a substantial part of the budgets worldwide and uses vast amounts of materials. Engineering practice has revealed that innovative techn...
Article
Optimal ergonomic design for consumer goods (such as garments and furniture) cannot be perfectly realised because of imprecise interactions between products and human models. In this paper, we propose a new body classification method that integrates human skeleton features, expert experience, manual measurement methods, and statistical analysis (pr...
Preprint
Full-text available
Focusing on the mechanism of "human-sport-clothing" system, this paper studies people-oriented sports comfort, and analyzes the influence of different tights combinations (i.e. tights and tights with different fabrics) and the effect of exercise status on the human body parts and overall comfort. In addition, because there are many impact indicator...
Article
Full-text available
In the context of fashion/textile innovations towards Industry 4.0, a variety of digital technologies, such as 3D garment CAD, have been proposed to automate, optimize design and manufacturing processes in the organizations of involved enterprises and supply chains as well as services such as marketing and sales. However, the current digital soluti...
Article
Full-text available
Garment pattern design is an extremely significant factor for the success of fashion company in mass customization and industry 4.0. In this paper, we proposed a new approach for constructing a garment pattern design knowledge base (GPDKB) using sensory analysis, ontology and support vector regression (SVR) modeling, aiming at systematically formal...
Article
Full-text available
Peoples with spinal disability face a huge problem in the design and development of ergonomically fitted and comfortable clothing. Various research studies on the design and developments of functional clothing for scoliosis patients consider their morphological shapes. However, developing appropriate models of the complicated and deformed anatomica...
Article
Full-text available
Scoliosis is one of the most frequently occurring morphological problems in people. People with such an abnormal curve of the spine face a huge problem, not only from the medical point of view but also from that of garment design and production processes. The current paper brings a novel designing technique to develop an adaptive 3D model of the co...
Article
Full-text available
This paper investigates the influences of woven fabric type, impact locations and number of layers on ballistic impact performances of target panels through trauma dimension and panel surface damage mechanisms for lightweight women ballistic vest design. Three panels with 30, 35 and 40 layers of two-dimensional plain weave and another two panels wi...
Article
Full-text available
The effects of the yarn composition system inside 3D woven high-performance textiles are not well investigated and understood against their final ballistic impact behaviour. The current study aims to examine the ballistic impact performances of armour panels made of different 3D woven fabric variants through postmortem observations. Four high-perfo...
Article
To study the upper body characteristics of young men, the body circumference, length, width, thickness, and angle of young men aged 18–25 and 26–35 years were collected to comprehensively characterize the concave and convex features of the front, back, and side of the human body. The Cuckoo Search-Density Peak intelligent algorithm was used to extr...
Article
Full-text available
Personal body armour is one of the most important pieces of equipment to protect human beings from various critical and fatal injuries. In today’s modern world, various organizations including law enforcement and security service have made it mandatory for their personnel to wear personal protection system while on field duty. However, the systems...
Article
Full-text available
Materials used in the technical application including composite reinforcements and ballistic fabrics should show not only good mechanical performance but also better deformational behaviors. Meanwhile, three dimensional (3D) warp interlock fabrics have been widely employed in such applications to substitute the two dimensional (2D) fabrics because...
Article
Full-text available
Recently, three-dimensional (3D) warp interlock fabric has been involved in composite reinforcement and soft ballistic material due to its great moldability, improved impact energy-absorbing capacity, and good intra-ply resistance to delamination behaviors. However, understanding the effects of different parameters of the fabric on its mechanical b...
Article
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In this study, we have explored and discussed the data mining-based solutions to apparel size assignment using approach principle, K-means clustering, and support vector machine, respectively. A case of mass customization for men's pants in China with 200 adult males were employed to validate and evaluate the solutions. After anthropometric data ac...
Article
Full-text available
This paper investigates the effects of warp yarns ratios on the ballistic performances of three-dimensional (3D) warp interlock p-aramid fabrics. Four 3D warp interlock variants with different binding and stuffer warp yarns ratios were designed and developed. Except for warp yarns ratios, similar fabric parameters and manufacturing conditions were...
Article
Full-text available
The goal of this article is to propose a practical and scientific model to complete the state of the art in the techniques of determining the pressure exerted by the medical compression stocking on the limbs. The proposed 3D model is developed to explain the mechanics of materials and in particular the compression phenomenon by the medical compress...
Article
The needs in the sector of orthopedic insoles are becoming more important. The medical purpose of these plantar prostheses is often to correct the posture or bio-mechanical imbalance that tends to cause pain in various areas of the body depending on the pathology of the patient. This is due to the progression of people who are increasingly obese or...
Conference Paper
In general, whether it is the morphological classification of the feet or the customization of products such as orthopedic insoles or appropriate footwear for atypical feet, it is imperative to find a rational method for detecting anthropometric points and curves. So far, only few studies have been carried out about the explanation of anthropometry...
Article
Full-text available
Trying virtual garments on a virtual body has become widespread in the design industry as a result of 3D computer-aided design (CAD) system and progress in body measurement systems. Spending less time and cost compared to traditional methods of garment design is the main benefit of design software development. Moreover, it leads to improved garment...
Article
The main objective of the present study was to investigate the increase in the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) of a set of five variants of three-dimensional (3D) warp interlock woven fabrics containing silver multifilament yarns arranged in a 3D orthogonal grid. The EMSE enlargement as a factor of increasing the quantity of the cond...
Article
Mouldability, along with other mechanical properties, is a very crucial material parameter in various technical textile applications, including composites and soft body armour products. Moreover, the mouldability and recovery behaviours of the material will be affected by various internal and external parameters before, during and after the forming...
Article
Full-text available
The material forming capability becomes one of the most important characteristic of textile performance in the manufacturing of three-dimensional (3D) components to fit a 3D surface in various technical applications. In this study, different forming characteristics of 3D warp interlock fabrics in dry fabric condition were investigated. 3D warp inte...
Article
This paper investigates the influences of woven fabric type, impact locations and number of layers on ballistic impact performances of target panels through trauma dimension and panel surface damage mechanisms for lightweight women ballistic vest design. Three panels with 30, 35 and 40 layers of two-dimensional plain weave and two panels with 30 an...
Article
This paper investigates the influences of woven fabric type, impact locations and number of layers on ballistic impact performances of target panels through trauma dimension and panel surface damage mechanisms for lightweight women ballistic vest design. Three panels with 30, 35 and 40 layers of two-dimensional plain weave and two panels with 30 an...
Article
Full-text available
The enormous impact of Artificial Intelligence has been realized in transforming the fashion and apparel industry in the past decades. However, the research in this domain is scattered and mainly focuses on one of the stages of the supply chain. Due to this, it is difficult to comprehend the work conducted in the distinct domain of the Fashion and...
Article
3D warp interlock fabric became a promising structure to develop women body armour due to its good mouldability. However, its ballistic performance for different threats should be investigated This paper aims to investigate the ballistic performances of 3D interlock p-aramid (Twaron®) fabric panels’ against NIJ (National Institute of Justice) stand...
Article
Garment pattern-making is one of the most important parts in fashion design and production. However, the traditional pattern-making is an experience based work and very time-consuming. In this paper, we proposed a parametric design method of garment pattern based on body dimensions. Based on this method, we constructed a jeans' pattern recommendati...
Article
Textiles have been highly considered in applications of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness. This is mainly due to an increasing concern of health issues caused by human exposure to radiation. In the present study, the main objective was to develop a monofilament yarn made of conductive polymer composite (CPC) for electromagnetic shielding appl...
Article
Ballistic impact mechanism is a very complex mechanical process which depends on various parameter mainly the thickness, strength, ductility, toughness and density of the target material and projectile parameters. Nowadays, the developments of tough, high-strength and high- modulus fibres have led to the use of fabrics and their composite laminates...
Article
Full-text available
Currently, the work of pattern making and fashion sketch drawing is done by designers and pattern makers respectively. The development of satisfactory garment products requires constant communication between designers and pattern makers. This process is very time-consuming. In this research, we proposed a body-dimension-based associate design metho...
Article
Full-text available
In today’s scenario many personnels including police officers, security guards, field journalist etc. made it mandatory to wear ballistic protection garments while on duty. In order to give the required protection, most of the ballistic protecting garment (vests) were developed with higher number of fabic layers.The development of such garment usin...
Conference Paper
In this paper we introduce a novel method for augmenting the spinal 3D model in real-time scene during diagnosis of various spinal deformities especially scoliosis. Morphology of the spine can be adapted to the torso actual shape with the aid of new digital 3D technologies that is proposed to design garment from shape of body based on 3D model of s...
Article
Full-text available
Bez obzira na ciljeve studije, bilo da se radi o morfološkoj klasifikaciji stopala ili prilagođavanju proizvoda poput ortopedskih uložaka / potplata ili prikladne obuće za atipična stopala, neophodno je pronaći racionalnu metodu za otkrivanje antropometrijskih točaka i krivulja. Studije o objašnjenju antropometrije stopala su malobrojne, a u nekim...
Article
Regardless of the objectives of the study, whether it is the morphological classification of the feet or the customization of products such as orthopedic insoles or appropriate footwear for atypical feet, it is the imperative to find a rational method for detecting the anthropometric points and curves. The studies explaining the anthropometry of th...
Article
Full-text available
Potrebe u području ortopedskih uložaka postaju sve važnije. Medicinska svrha ovih plantarnih proteza često je ispravljanje držanja ili biomehaničke neravnoteže koji imaju tendenciju da uzrokuju bol u raznim dijelovima tijela, ovisno o patologiji pacijenta. To se događa zbog povećanja broja ljudi s visokim tlakom ili onih koji imaju problema s dijab...