Nathalie Alépée

L'Oréal

Currently, the OECD has adopted three defined approaches (DAs) for eye hazard identification of non-surfactant liquids and solids (TG467) according to the three UN GHS categories (Cat.1, Cat.2, No Cat.). We are now expanding the applicability domain with a new DA for chemicals having surfactant (SF) properties (DASF). It is based on a combination o...

Toxicological assessments of skin sensitizers have progressed towards a higher reliance on non-animal methods. Current technological trends aim to extend the utility of non-animal methods to accurately characterize skin-sensitizing potency. The GARDskin Dose–Response assay has previously been described; it was shown that its main readout, cDV0 conc...

Skin sensitization is a key endpoint for safety assessment, especially for cosmetics and personal care products. The adverse outcome pathway for skin sensitization and the chemical and biological events driving the induction of human skin sensitization are now well understood. Several non‐animal test methods have been developed to predict sensitize...

Regulations of cosmetic ingredients and products have been the most advanced in embracing new approach methodologies (NAMs). Consequently, the cosmetic industry has assumed a forerunner role in the development and implementation of animal-free next-generation risk assessment (NGRA) that incorporates defined approaches (DAs) to assess the skin sensi...

Currently two OECD adopted defined approaches (DA) for eye hazard identification of non-surfactant liquids exist (OECD TG467). The purpose of the current study was to develop a DA for eye hazard identification according to the three UN GHS categories (Cat.1, Cat. 2, No Cat.) for solid chemicals: the DAS. The DAS combines two test methods described...

The assessment of skin sensitizing properties of chemicals has moved away from animal methods to new approach methodologies (NAM), guided by qualitative mechanistic understanding operationalized in an adverse outcome pathway (AOP). As with any AOP, the molecular initiating event (MIE) of covalent binding of a chemical to skin proteins is particular...

The assessment of skin sensitizing properties of chemicals has moved away from animal methods to new approach methodologies (NAM), guided by qualitative mechanistic understanding operationalized in an adverse outcome pathway (AOP). As with any AOP, the molecular initiating event (MIE) of covalent binding of a chemical to skin proteins is particular...

Skin sensitisation is a key adverse human health effect to be addressed in the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients. Regulatory demands and scientific progress have led to the development of a Next Generation Risk Assessment (NGRA) framework, relying on the use of New Approach Methodologies (NAM) Defined Approaches (DA) and read-across instead...

The assessment of skin sensitising properties of chemicals has moved away from the traditional animal methods to new approach methodologies (NAM), guided by qualitative mechanistic understanding operationalised in an adverse outcome pathway (AOP). As with any AOP, the molecular initiating event (MIE) of covalent binding of a chemical to skin protei...

Cosmetic products must be safe for their intended use. Regulatory bans on animal testing for new ingredients has resulted in a shift towards the use of new approach methodologies (NAM), such as in silico predictions and in chemico/in vitro data. Defined Approaches (DA) have been developed to interpret combinations of NAM to provide information on s...

The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Guidance Document No. 34 and No. 286 on Good In Vitro Method Practices (GIVIMPs) for the development and implementation of in vitro methods for regulatory use in human safety assessment have been endorsed. Considering that China is accelerating the development of alternative approach...

The purpose of this study was to develop a defined approach (DA) for eye hazard identification according to the three UN GHS categories for surfactants (DASF). The DASF is based on a combination of Reconstructed human Cornea-like Epithelium test methods (OECD TG 492; EpiOcular™ EIT and SkinEthic™ HCE EIT) and the modified Short Time Exposure (STE)...

A novel in vitro 3D micronucleus assay was developed in China using the EpiSkin™ 3D human skin model. This EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay showed good predictivity and reproducibility during internal validation and is expected to contribute to in vitro genotoxicity testing as a follow-up for positive results from 2D micronucleus assay. Having developed...

Cosmetics Europe (CE) has developed two defined approaches (DAs) for non-surfactant liquid chemicals for eye hazard identification, i.e. addressing serious eye damage (UN GHS Cat. 1), eye irritation (UN GHS Cat. 2) and (the absence thereof; UN GHS No Cat.) (Alépée et al., 2021). However, neither a single in vitro test method nor a testing battery h...

The assessment of skin sensitisation is a key requirement in all regulated sectors, with the European Union's regulation of cosmetic ingredients being most challenging, since it requires quantitative skin sensitisation assessment based on new approach methodologies (NAMs). To address this challenge, an in-depth and harmonised understanding of NAMs...

Limitations of the applicability domain of new approach methodologies (NAM) present a major challenge for the testing of cosmetic ingredients in Europe, as the regulation does not allow to resort to in vivo test method. Therefore, research focused on overcoming such limitations of established in vitro test methods is frequently conducted. Here, we...

This study describes the within- and between-laboratory reproducibility (WLR and BLR) of a Time-to-Toxicity (TTT) approach for chemicals based on the SkinEthic™ HCE tissue construct, capable to distinguish chemicals that do not require classification for serious eye damage/eye irritation (No Cat.) from chemicals that require classification for eye...

The U-SENS™ assay was developed to address the third key event of the skin sensitization adverse outcome pathway (AOP) and is described in OECD test guideline 442E, Annex II. A dataset of 68 fragrance ingredients comprised of 7 non-sensitizers and 61 sensitizers was tested in the U-SENS™ assay. The potential for fragrance ingredients to activate de...

This study describes the development of a Time-to-Toxicity approach for solids (TTS) based on the SkinEthic™ HCE tissue construct, capable to distinguish chemicals that do not require classification for serious eye damage/eye irritation (No Cat.) from chemicals that require classification for eye irritation (Cat. 2), and serious eye damage (Cat. 1)...

Skin sensitisation is a key adverse health effect to be addressed in the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients. Regulatory demands have urged the development of Next Generation Risk Assessment (NGRA) using New Approach Methodologies (NAM) and Defined Approaches (DA) instead of animal models. An illustrative NGRA case study shall demonstrate if...

Background: Humans are exposed to tens of thousands of chemical substances that need to be assessed for their potential toxicity. Acute systemic toxicity testing serves as the basis for regulatory hazard classification, labeling, and risk management. However, it is cost- and time-prohibitive to evaluate all new and existing chemicals using traditi...

A prospective study of the Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability (BCOP) Laser Light-Based Opacitometer (LLBO) test method was conducted to evaluate its usefulness to identify chemicals as inducing serious eye damage (Cat. 1) or chemicals not requiring classification for eye irritation (No Cat.) applying United Nations Globally Harmonized System o...

Historically, performance of in vitro toxicology test methods has been evaluated and considered for regulatory purposes based on sensitivity & specificity values derived from validation studies. Other indicators are however useful to evaluate in vitro tests such as positive & negative predictive values (PPV & NPV), likelihood ratios (LRs) or odds r...

Several alternative methods have been developed and regulatory adopted by OECD as in vitro alternatives to the Draize eye irritation assay either to detect chemicals not requiring classification (No Category) or inducing serious damage to the eye (Category 1) but none are sensitive enough to identify chemicals inducing reversible eye effects (categ...

This study describes the development of a Time-to-Toxicity approach for liquids (TTL) based on the SkinEthic™ HCE tissue construct, capable to distinguish chemicals that do not require classification for serious eye damage/eye irritation (No Cat.) from chemicals that require classification for eye irritation (Cat. 2), and serious eye damage (Cat. 1...

Recently, several non-animal approaches contributing to the identification of skin sensitisation hazard have been introduced. Their validation and acceptance has largely been directed towards regulatory classification. Considering the driving force for replacement of in vivo tests centred on cosmetics, it is reasonable to ask how well the new appro...

The European Regulation on Cosmetics (no. 1223/2009) has prohibited the use of animals in safety testing since March 2009 for ingredients used in cosmetics. Irreversible events at the chromosome level (clastogenesis and aneugenesis) are commonly evaluated by scoring either micronuclei or chromosome aberrations using cell-based genotoxicity assays....

The need of in vitro alternative methods has been increasing in toxicology research as well as in cosmetic industry in China recently. Following the establishment of China EpiSkin™ skin corrosion and irritation testing methods, both as stand-alone in vitro tests according to Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) TG 431 and T...

Skin sensitization is an important toxicological endpoint in the safety assessment of chemicals and cosmetic ingredients. Driven by ethical considerations and European Union (EU) legislation, its assessment has progressed from the reliance on traditional animal models to the use of non-animal test methods. It is generally accepted that the assessme...

The focus of Cosmetics Europe's ocular toxicity programme is on development of testing strategies and defined approaches for identification of ocular effects of chemicals in the context of OECD's Guidance Document on an Integrated Approach on Testing and Assessment (IATA) for Serious Eye Damage and Eye Irritation. Cosmetics Europe created a compreh...

The focus of Cosmetics Europe's programme on serious eye damage/eye irritation is on development of testing strategies and defined approaches for identification of ocular effects of chemicals in the context of OECD's Guidance Document on an Integrated Approach on Testing and Assessment (IATA) for Serious Eye Damage and Eye Irritation. Cosmetics Eur...

Assessment of ocular irritation risk is an international regulatory requirement in the safety evaluation of products. In response to this need, L'Oréal developed the SkinEthic™ Human Corneal Epithelium (HCE) Eye Irritation Test (EIT) that has been included in OECD Test Guideline 492. SkinEthic™ HCE EIT is able to correctly and reliably identify che...

Predictive capacity of the EpiSkin™ model was evaluated on 87 chemicals using the Bottom-Up and the Top-Down testing approaches recommended within Integrated Approach on Testing and Assessment for the identification of both skin irritation and corrosion hazards. Classified (UN GHS Cat. 1 and Cat. 2) chemicals were identified with a very high sensit...

The purpose of present study was to investigate the applicability of reconstructed human epidermis model to identify skin corrosive UN GHS Categories 1A, 1B/1C and non-corrosive chemicals in China. By using a commercialized reconstructed human epidermis model, China EpiSkin™ which had been proven to be applicable as a stand-alone test method to pre...

Assessment of ocular irritation potential is an international regulatory requirement in the safety evaluation of industrial and consumer products. None in vitro ocular irritation assays are capable of fully categorizing chemicals as stand-alone. Therefore, the CEFIC-LRI-AIMT6-VITO CON4EI consortium assessed the reliability of eight in vitro test me...

Assessment of the acute eye irritation potential is part of the international regulatory requirements for testing of chemicals. In the past, several prospective and retrospective validation studies have taken place in the area of serious eye damage/eye irritation testing. Success in terms of complete replacement of the regulatory in vivo Draize rab...

Introduction: In 2014, Brazil has joined the growing list of countries to ban cosmetic products from being tested on animal models. The new legislation comes into force in 2019. As a result, the interest for validated alternative testing methods for safety assessment has been increasing in academia, industry and associations. However, the lack of s...

Cosmetics Europe, the European Trade Association for the cosmetics and personal care industry, is conducting a multi-phase program to develop regulatory accepted, animal-free testing strategies enabling the cosmetics industry to conduct safety assessments. Based on a systematic evaluation of test methods for skin sensitization, five non-animal test...

Skin sensitization is a toxicity endpoint of widespread concern, for which the mechanistic understanding and concurrent necessity for non-animal testing approaches have evolved to a critical juncture, with many available options for predicting sensitization without using animals. Cosmetics Europe and the National Toxicology Program Interagency Cent...

Cosmetics legislation in Europe has driven the validation and acceptance of non-animal alternatives, most recently in the area of skin sensitization. Despite use of these methods to meet regulatory needs, it is also essential that they allow evaluation regarding human safety. For cosmetic product safety, it is necessary to understand how they can b...

The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Test Guideline (TG) 439 is an in vitro test method of reconstructed human epidermis (RhE), which was developed for hazard identification of irritating chemicals in accordance with a primary skin irritation test using rabbits with 4-hr exposure. A regulation for quasi-drugs in Japan r...

Assessment of acute eye irritation potential is part of the international regulatory requirements for testing of chemicals. The objective of the CON4EI (CONsortium for in vitro Eye Irritation testing strategy) project was to develop tiered testing strategies for eye irritation assessment for all drivers of classification. A set of 80 reference chem...

Assessment of ocular irritation is a regulatory requirement in safety evaluation of industrial and consumer products. Although a number of in vitro ocular irritation assays exist, none are capable of fully categorizing chemicals as stand-alone assays. Therefore, the CEFIC-LRI-AIMT6-VITO CON4EI (CONsortium for in vitro Eye Irritation testing strateg...

Assessment of acute eye irritation potential is part of the international regulatory requirements for safety testing of chemicals. In the last decades, many efforts have been made in the search for alternative methods to replace the regulatory in vivo Draize rabbit eye test (OECD TG 405). Success in terms of complete replacement of the regulatory i...

Assessment of ocular irritancy is an international regulatory requirement in the safety evaluation of industrial and consumer products. Although many in vitro ocular irritation assays exist, alone they are incapable of fully categorizing chemicals. Therefore, the CEFIC-LRI-AIMT6-VITO CON4EI consortium was developed to assess the reliability of eigh...

Assessment of the acute eye irritation potential is part of the international regulatory requirements for testing of chemicals. The objective of the CON4EI project was to develop tiered testing strategies for eye irritation assessment. A set of 80 reference chemicals (38 liquids and 42 solids) was tested with eight different methods. Here, the resu...

The EpiSkin™ skin corrosion method is an internationally accepted test method used to detect the skin corrosion properties of chemicals. The test method has been shown to be robust, transferable, and reproducible in validation studies organised with three laboratories. The overall accuracy of the EpiSkin™ test method in distinguishing between corro...

The U-SENS™ assay is modelling the dendritic cell activation upon exposure to chemicals. Upon contact with sensitizers, U937 human histiocytic lymphoma cells are activated and increase the CD86 expression. The U-SENS™ assay addressing one biological mechanism of the skin sensitization pathway (formally described in an Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP)...

The EpiSkin™ skin irritation method is an internationally accepted test method used to detect the skin irritation properties of chemicals. The EpiSkin™ skin irritation test method has been shown to be robust and transferable. The reproducibility and predictivity of the EpiSkin™ assay have been evaluated in validation studies organized with three la...

The SkinEthic™ Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) test method has been adopted within the context of OECD TG 431 for distinguishing corrosive and non-corrosive chemicals as well for identifying UN GHS subcategories 1A and 1B and 1C within the context of Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development Test Guideline 431 (OECD TG 431). The wi...

The SkinEthic™ Reconstructed Human Epidermal (RHE) skin irritation method is an internationally accepted OECD test method used to detect the skin irritation properties of chemicals (OECD TG 439). The SkinEthic™ RHE skin irritation test method has been shown to be robust and transferable. The reproducibility and predictivity of the SkinEthic™ RHE as...

Assessment of the acute eye irritation potential is part of the international regulatory requirements for testing of chemicals. In the past, several prospective and retrospective validation studies have taken place in the area of serious eye damage/eye irritation testing. Success in terms of complete replacement of the regulatory in vivo Draize rab...

Assessment of ocular irritancy is an international regulatory requirement and a necessary step in the safety evaluation of industrial and consumer products. Although a number of in vitro ocular irritation assays exist, none are capable of fully categorizing chemicals as a stand-alone assay. Therefore, the CEFIC-LRI-AIMT6-VITO CON4EI (CONsortium for...

Assessment of ocular irritation potential is an international regulatory requirement in the safety evaluation of industrial and consumer products. None in vitro ocular irritation assays are capable of fully categorizing chemicals as stand-alone. Therefore, the CEFIC-LRI-AIMT6-VITO CON4EI consortium assessed the reliability of eight in vitro test me...

A thorough understanding of which of the effects assessed in the in vivo Draize eye test are responsible for driving UN GHS/EU CLP classification is critical for an adequate selection of chemicals to be used in the development and/or evaluation of alternative methods/strategies and for properly assessing their predictive capacity and limitations. F...