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Publications (97)
Biausque, M. and Senechal, N., 2020. Analysis of two contrasting seasonal recovery periods of an open sandy beach, using high frequency DGPS surveys. High frequency DGPS surveys were undertaken for 2.5 years (November 2015 until April 2018) on an open sandy double barred beach in the SW of France (Biscarrosse Beach) covering three winter and two su...
One year of high frequency DGPS surveys (January 2016 to January 2017) completed by the inner bar position extracted from video monitoring are analyzed to study the evolution of the open sandy beach of Biscarrosse (SW of France). The purpose of this work is not only to characterize the seasonal dynamics of the shore but also to look after the evolu...
The present work investigates cross-shore shoreline migration as well as its alongshore variability (with deformation) on timescales of days to years using 6 years of time-averaged video images. The variability of the shoreline is estimated through empirical statistical methods with comprehensive reference to three scales of variability. At the mes...
This chapter first addresses storm cluster genesis and definitions. Storm clusters can be defined in many different ways but the term generally refers to a sequence of coastal storm events separated by a short time interval. Assessing storm clustering impacts on coasts implies that people are able to study the impact of each storm event within the...
The purpose of this study is to assess the ability of the SWASH model to reproduce wave setup and runup in highly dissipative stormy conditions. To proceed we use data collected during the ECORS Truc Vert’08 Experiment, especially during the Johanna storm in the winter of 2007-008 (wave setup under Hs= 8.2 m and Tp= 18.3 s and runup under 6.4 m and...
This study investigates the impact of individual storms and storm clusters on shoreline recovery for the meso-to macrotidal, barred Biscarrosse beach in SW France, using 6 years of daily video observations. While the study area experienced 60 storms during the 6-year study period, only 36 storms were analysed due to gaps in the video data. Based on...
A field experiment was conducted on a sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the swash zone hydro-and morphodynamics throughout different tide and wave conditions. A 2D Lidar was used to measure runup properties and bed level changes on the swash zone. An energetic monsoon wave event provided energetic conditions du...
The aim of this study is to provide the preliminary results of the comparisons of two field sites exposed to the same environmental conditions but with contrasting beach management strategies. Truc Vert beach and Biscarrosse beach are both low sandy beaches situated on the 250km long linear French coast exposed to the Atlantic swells and are about...
A field experiment was conducted on a sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the swash zone hydro- and morphodynamics throughout different tide and wave conditions. A 2D Lidar was used to measure runup properties and bed level changes on the swash zone. An energetic monsoon wave event provided energetic conditions d...
The morphology of sandy beaches is highly dynamic. They are influenced by the geology of the coastal area and external hydrodynamic forcing. On long timescales (years to decades), it is more efficient and convenient to monitor beach evolution through remote sensing technics rather than through direct field measurements. Erosion is a major problem a...
Can wave reflection be remotely described from swash dynamics and the shoreface slope inversely from reflected waves? In this paper, we revisit the link between swash dynamics and reflection using contrasting field datasets: swell waves on steep and flat beaches and wind waves on an intermediate beach. Reflection ranges from less than 1% to up to 2...
A combination of observations and analytical solutions were used to determine the modifications caused by wind forcing on the residual or non-tidal circulation in an ebb-tidal delta. Observations were obtained in the lower Arcachon Lagoon, southwestern France. The basic non-tidal circulation was established with acoustic Doppler current profilers (...
Benin, like most African countries, is exposed to disasters due to climate risks. This includes strong winds, late and intense rains, floods and episodic ocean events including extreme swells. The latter accentuate the phenomenon of erosion and result in material damage along the coast. In order to limit damage and destruction caused by climatic va...
The first large nearshore field experiment in the Gulf of Guinea was conducted at Grand Popo Beach, Benin, in February 2013, on an open wave-dominated micro- to meso-tidal coast, located mid-way between Cotonou and Lome harbours. The overall project aims at understanding at multi-scale (from event to interannual) the causes of the dramatic erosion...
Book of abstract international conference ICAWA 2014 : the AWA project : ecosystem approach to the management of fisheries and the marine environment in West African waters
This contribution presents the morphologic response of a double-barred sandy beach facing the Atlantic swells in the south west of France under two storm events: the first one occurring during summer period while the beach is experiencing seasonal accretive conditions and the second one during winter while the beach is experiencing seasonal erosion...
A sequence of daily beach surveys acquired over one month covering an area larger than 100,000 m2, was analyzed to study morphological changes resulting from a cluster of storms. The beach response was highly variable in both the cross- and alongshore. A cumulative storm effect was not observed, despite one storm being characterized by a 10-year re...
8-year time series of incident wave energy and monthly alongshore-averaged beach surveys at the high-energy meso-macrotidal multiple-barred Truc Vert beach are analysed. We apply two behaviour-oriented equilibrium shoreline models that relate the rate of cross-shore shoreline displacement to the wave energy and the wave energy disequilibrium betwee...
Remote video imagery is widely used to acquire measurements of intertidal topography by means of shoreline detection, but, up to now, problems of accuracy were still encountered in the challenging case of energetic waves in nonuniform, meso macro tidal environments. Unique, simultaneous, video-based and global positioning system (GPS)-based measure...
Present sedimentation in three canyons of the Bay of Biscay (Audierne, Blackmud and Capbreton) is studied by the combined analysis of cores and current meter data collected over a 7 month period. At the current meter mooring locations, interface cores were collected to characterize the recent sedimentation processes. In the two canyons located in t...
Une série d’images satellitaires Spot couvrant la période 1997-2009 (base Kalideos Littoral) est exploitée dans l’optique de caractériser l’évolution interannuelle du littoral sableux au sud du Bassin d’Arcachon. Un algorithme semi-analytique reposant sur les propriétés optiques des eaux et des petits fonds a été calibré et validé par des données i...
A timeseries of Spot satellite images spanning over the 1997-2009 period (Kalideos Littoral database) is used to monitor the year-to-year evolution of the sandy stretch of coastline located south the Arcachon Lagoon. A semi-analytical algorithm based on the seawater and seabed optical properties has been calibrated and validated with in situ data a...
A large multi-institutional nearshore field experiment was conducted at Truc Vert, on the Atlantic coast of France in early
2008. Truc Vert’08 was designed to measure beach change on a long, sandy stretch of coast without engineering works with emphasis
on large winter waves (offshore significant wave height up to 8m), a three-dimensional morpholog...
Video measurements of wave runup were collected during extreme storm conditions characterized by energetic long swells (peak period of 16.4 s and offshore height up to 6.4 m) impinging on steep foreshore beach slopes (0.05-0.08). These conditions induced highly dissipative and saturated conditions over the low-sloping surf zone while the swash zone...
Three years of daily video images on the intermediate double-barred open beach Biscarrosse in a meso-to macrotidal environment (South-West, France) permit to study the dynamic of an inner bar system under high energetic conditions. Morphological changes were monitored through low-tide daily video imagery from May 2007 to April 2010. The imagery wer...
Historical shoreline oscillations along adjacent beaches south the
Arcachon tidal inlet (south-west France) have been directly controled by
sediment inputs carried through the inlet by the littoral drift. In
parallell, field observations aiming at understanding high frequency
processes governing short-term beach morphodynamics are conducted on a
ve...
Morphological changes occurring over short and long temporal scales
remain a major challenge in nearshore research. Because of the expected
rise in mean sea level and storminess increase, beach response to
changing wave conditions is of key interest to coastal managers. Current
numerical models of beach change have limited predictive skills and the...
Five weeks of hourly, 10-min time-exposure video images were used to analyze the meso–macro-tidal double-barred Truc Vert Beach, SW France, under intense wave forcing. The four storms experienced, one of which with an offshore significant wave height over 8 m, induced dramatic changes in the double sandbar system. The subtidal outer bar migrated of...
The accepted view of rip currents is that they are an efficient mechanism for transporting material out of the surf zone. Previous rip current campaigns on natural beaches have focused on Eulerian measurements with sparse in situ pressure and current meter arrays. Here, for the first time, spatially synoptic estimates of rip current flow patterns,...
During several field experiments, measurements of waves and currents as well as topographic surveys were conducted on four morphologically-contrasted macrotidal beaches along the rocky Iroise coastline in Brittany (France). These datasets provide new insight on the hydrodynamics of pocket beaches, which are rather poorly documented compared to wide...
A field experiment was performed in 2008 at Truc Vert, a macrotidal beach on the southern part of the French Atlantic coast. The experiment involved scientists from 6 countries (for a total of 16 institutions) and measurements of waves, currents, sediment transport and morphological changes were collected for a period of 6 weeks. We here focus on t...
The Aquitanian Coast (France) is a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment exhibiting a highly variable double sandbar system. The inner and the outer bar generally exhibit a bar and rip morphology and persistent crescentic patterns, respectively. In June 2007, an intense five-day field experiment was carried out at Biscarrosse Beach. A large array...
Four years of bi-monthly topographic surveys have been conducted on a 350 m stretch of the meso- to macro-tidal Truc Vert beach, France. Here we study the dynamics of both the inner bar and the upper part of the beach where a berm can develop in the presence of fair weather conditions. For the inner bar, the occurrences of the different states with...
The Aquitanian coast is a high-energy meso-macrotidal double-barred sandy coast. The inner bar exhibits most of the time a transverse bar and rip morphology. Strong rip currents are induced by breaking waves over these 3D features. In June 2007, an intensive 5-day field experiment was carried out on Biscarrosse Beach. A large array of sensors was d...
Video systems are emerging tools to monitor high frequency nearshore morphodynamics. Bathymetry can be inverted from surface wave celerity. We present here a new and robust method to estimate this celerity. The method is a time and space cross-correlation based on time-stack images. The celerity estimation is local, within a distance smaller than t...
The aim of this paper is to present the topographic and bathymetric surveys acquired during the international ECORS mission (March-April 2008) at Truc Vert Beach, SW of France. Topographic surveys have been done with an accuracy of about 2.5cm in the horizontal directions and 3cm for the elevation. Using both a GPS kinematics (by foot or implemente...
A 6-week field experiment was conducted on the Truc Vert macrotidal beach with intertidal bar morphology with the aim of quantifying the morphological changes and beach response to varying offshore wave conditions. Morphological changes were estimated through daily DGPS beach topographies. Results assume a strong temporal to spatial variability, re...
High-resolution optical remote sensing is an important tool in beach morphodynamics studies. The sand bar systems on the beach can be covered at a few-meter resolution over several tens of kilometres alongshore. The remote sensing reflectance in the blue and the green wavelengths can be used to quantify the concentrations of the ocean constituents...
Alors que le fonctionnement hydro-sédimentaire des plages aquitaines est relativement bien documenté, celui du littoral sud-gironde est singulier de part sa localisation en aval de l’embouchure du Bassin d’Arcachon, soumise à l’action des courants de marée et des houles océaniques. L’évolution annuelle à décennale de ces plages est reconstituée à p...
A field campaign was carried out as part of the ECORS project on the macro-tidal beach of Truc Vert (France, March-April 2008). Velocities, sediment concentrations and bed evolutions recorded at the mid intertidal zone are presented, covering calm (Hs ~ 0.5 m) and energetic (Hs ~ 1 m) conditions. Cross-shore transport rates were estimated using the...
An original data set has been acquired on the 5th of April 2008 during the international field experiment ECORS-Truc Vert 2008 (SW France) in the nearshore zone over a complex bathymetry and in moderate turbid waters (SPM <10 mg/l). This data set synchronizes in-situ reflectance measurements onboard a jet-ski, bathymetric surveys and a Formosat-2 h...
A large multi-institutional international field experiment (ECORS Truc
Vert'08) was conducted Feb-April 2008 on the southern part of the
French Atlantic coastline. More than 120 scientists, students and
technicians participated to this effort coming from 3 continents and 6
countries : Australia (University of New South Wales), France (SHOM,
Univers...
In situ reflectance spectra have been measured during the international field experiment ECORS-Truc Vert 2008 (SW France) in the nearshore zone over a complex bathymetry and in moderately turbid waters (SPM <10 mg/l). Measurements of the atmospheric downwelling irradiance (Ed) and in-water upwelling radiance (Lu) were realized on board a jet-ski wi...
Beach cusps are a common feature of steep reflective and intermediate beaches. Although many observations of beach cusp spacing exist, there are few observations quantifying the incipient formation, evolution and eventual destruction of these features. Beach cusp morphodynamics were analyzed using a 3-year dataset of video images collected at Tairu...
Several field experiments of both morphological and hydrodynamical measurements occured during springs 2004 and 2005 on four beaches of the Iroise Sea (Finistère). Within these four datasets (sea surface elevation, cross-shore and longshore flow velocities), dissipation of wave energy is investigated through time (accounting with tidal cycle) and s...
A long term survey of the truc vert beach, an intermediate double barred beach of the Gironde Atlantic coast, has been realised thanks to topographical GPS survey on a spring tide basis. The methodology applied has been implemented through ATV survey in order to obtain centimetric precision over the three dimensions. The morphological patterns of t...
We present a tool to estimate inter-tidal topography using video images. This tool is based on tracking shorelines for different tidal levels. The Biscarrosse (Landes, France) CamEra video system is also introduced. A validation of the inter-tidal topography tool is done using Biscarrosse 2007 experiment data. A study is held for the outstanding pe...
Dans cette communication, nous présenterons les méthodes originales développées pour le traitement des données topographiques et bathymétriques acquises sur le littoral aquitain, afin d'aboutir à une cohérence centimétrique sur les jeux de données d'origine très différentes. Ce programme de traitement est soutenu par l'ANR VULSACO et par le projet...
The French Aquitanian Coast is an approximately 250 km long straight low coast exposed to high energy conditions in a meso-macrotidal setting. Offshore wave conditions are seasonally modulated, predominantly with a WNW incidence, with offshore significant wave height likely to reach 10 m during winter. Truc Vert Beach, representative of most of the...
Very Low Frequency (VLF) rip current pulsation investigations are still poorly documented in the literature. In this paper, we analyse data acquired during an in-situ field experiment on Truc Vert beach, on the Aquitanian coast. This beach was exposed to high energy wave conditions during a spring tide cycle and has high tidal range and gentle slop...