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Publications (12)
Shoreline position (e.g., beach width) is a critical component of flooding and overtopping forecasts but difficult to predict accurately. We model beach width changes with a supervised machine learning (ML) approach informed by equilibrium principles. The time history of wave energy anomalies that force equilibrium models is used as an ML input fea...
American Samoa is experiencing rapid relative sea level rise due to increases in global sea level and significant post-2009 earthquake land subsidence, endangering homes and critical infrastructure. Wave and water-level observations collected over a fringing reef at Faga‘itua Bay, American Samoa, in 2017 reveal depth-limited shoreline sea-swell wav...
American Samoa is experiencing rapid relative sea level rise due to increases in global sea level and significant post-2009 earthquake land subsidence, endangering homes and critical infrastructure. Wave and water-level observations collected over a fringing reef at Faga‘itua Bay, American Samoa, in 2017 reveal depth-limited shoreline sea-swell wav...
American Samoa is experiencing rapid relative sea level rise due to increases in global sea level and significant post-2009 earthquake land subsidence, endangering homes and critical infrastructure. Wave and water-level observations collected over a fringing reef at Faga‘itua Bay, American Samoa, in 2017 reveal depth-limited shoreline sea-swell wav...
Weekly to quarterly beach elevation surveys spanning 700-800 m alongshore and 8 years at two beaches were each supplemented with several months of ∼100 sub-weekly surveys. These beaches, which have different sediment types (sand vs. sand-cobble mix), both widen in summer in response to the seasonal wave climate, in agreement with a generic equilibr...
Motivated by observations of enhanced near-inertial currents at the island chain of Palau, the modification of wind-generated near-inertial oscillations (NIOs) by the presence of an island is examined using the analytic solutions of Longuet-Higgins and a linear, inviscid, 1.5-layer reduced-gravity model. The analytic solution for oscillations at th...
The North Equatorial Current (NEC) transports water westward around numerous islands and over submarine ridges in the western Pacific. As the currents flow over and around this topography, the central question is: how are momentum and energy in the incident flow transferred to finer scales? At the south point of Peleliu Island, Palau, a combination...
Wake eddies are frequently created by flow separation where ocean currents encounter abrupt topography in the form of islands or headlands. Most previous work has concentrated on wake eddy generation by either purely oscillatory (usually tidal) currents, or quasi‐steady mean flows. Here we report measurements near the point of flow separation at th...