Michail Michailov

Michail Michailov
National Sports Academy Sofia | NSA · Theory and Methodology of Sports Training

PhD

About

20
Publications
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254
Citations

Publications

Publications (20)
Article
Full-text available
The aim of the study was to determine the acute effects of single-whole-body vibration (WBV) on resting metabolic rate (RMR) and carbohydrate–lipid profile of blood in young, healthy women. The participants, in a randomised controlled crossover study, participated in two trials: WBV and a vibration simulation (placebo). The WBV was performed in the...
Article
Full-text available
PurposeThe aim of the study was to evaluate distinct performance indicators and energy system contributions in 3 different, new sport-specific finger flexor muscle exercise tests.Methods The tests included the maximal strength test, the all-out test (30 s) as well as the continuous and intermittent muscle endurance test at an intensity equaling 60%...
Article
The relative importance of key performance factors is poorly studied in high-level climbers. This study aimed to (1) determine the role of forearm muscle strength and endurance in high-level rock climbing, (2) and provide suitable dynamometric test parameters for muscle endurance assessment in high-level climbers. Six higher elite (redpoint Fr.9a)...
Article
Full-text available
Purpose: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relati...
Article
Full-text available
Introduction. Studies have demonstrated an important role of muscle strength and endurance in climbing. However, little research has explored the speed parameters of the muscles of climbers. This study aimed to evaluate biomechanical indices of the functional status of the upper limbs in climbers. Material and methods. Group G1 (n = 3) were athlete...
Article
Full-text available
Antropomotoryka (Journal of Kinesiology and Exercise Sciences), 2017, vol.27, no.3 (79), 31-39. Aim. The aim of the study was to compare the main indicators characterizing body build, including the strength and endurance potential of elite mountain and rock climbers. Methods: The study was comprised of high-class male athletes, performing rock and...
Article
Full-text available
The muscles that exert most during sport climbing are the finger flexors followed by elbow flexors (EF). Nevertheless, climbers’ EF strength and endurance were not tested in an isolated manner and EF endurance was not assessed at different relative intensities. Purpose: To determine the importance of EF maximal strength and endurance in sport climb...
Article
Full-text available
The purpose of this study was to investigate physiological responses to climbing with different hold types. Eight elite climbers (red-point achievements 8a – 9a, French grades) performed two climbing tests to failure which were steady in pace and uniform in wall inclination, distances between holds and hold deepness. Only the hold contact surface i...
Article
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Introduction: Muscle group, age and sex affect the duration of isometric exercise, performed at a chosen percentage of the maximal voluntary contraction (MVC). It is not confirmed whether sport practice and the sport discipline are also factors in this regard. Aim: to create conditions for optimizing isometric exercise parameters. Methods: 25 athle...
Article
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Background. Bouldering and lead climbing are divergent disciplines of the sport of rock climbing. Bouldering moves are short and powerful, whilst sport climbing is longer and require a greater degree of endurance. Aim. The aim of this study was to compare forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contraction between lead climbers (LC) a...
Article
Full-text available
This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–forcecharacteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve thetarget force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three fi...
Article
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Unlabelled: Traditional treadmill or bicycle ergometry neglects the upper-body musculature that predominantly limits or terminates rock-climbing performance (ie, the inability to continually pull up one's body mass or "hang on"). Purpose: To develop an incremental maximal upper-body ergometer test (UBT) to evaluate climbers' aerobic fitness and...
Article
Full-text available
In order to outline the performance limiting factors and to conduct an effective training process in rock climbing a characteristic of the physical activity is needed. On this basis proper training exercises and methods could be designed. Rock climbing has a variable character of the workload, includes many sub disciplines and demands complex devel...
Conference Paper
Purpose: A main objective, was determination which factors motor, physiological and anthropometrical favors the elite rock climbers Methods: Research was conducted within to the group of 6 climbers. From that group one climber was selected and named Number 1 - the level 9a RP. The other climbers represented the level 8a - 8b+ RP. Result of the best...
Conference Paper
Purpose: A main objective, was determination which factors motor, physiological and anthropometrical favors the hight elite rock climbers Methods: Research was conducted within to the group of 6 climbers. From that group one climber was selected and named Number 1 - the level 9a RP. The other climbers represented the level 8a - 8b+ RP. Result of th...
Conference Paper
Objective: Physiological variables registered before an expedition could hardly serve to predict performance at high mountains as acclimatization ability is a major factor. The purpose of this study was to identify parameters that distinguish climbers with more chances to reach a summit and to examine the changes in some anthropometric parameters u...
Article
Full-text available
The basic aim of this research was to determine the metric characteristics of the specific strength of sports climbers' tests. The research was conducted on a sample of 14 sports climbers at the national level, aged 18 to 27, those who can climb at least a VIII-route by means of 9 specific strength sports climbers' tests (three tests each for the e...
Chapter
Method: Six climbers age 19 to 42, with experience of 3 to 27 years and self-reported red-point best achievement 8+ to 10-UIAA, have trained for 7 weeks, 3 times a week. The new method is represented by alternating in difficulty doing repetitions (8–10): of easy (20–30 hand moves) and “difficult” routes (15–20 moves) and breaks of 30–60 s (dependin...

Projects

Project (1)
Project
The project aims to develop a methodology for a comprehensive assessment of sport-specific finger strength and endurance in rock climbing. A combination of strength and muscular endurance tests and a specifically developed strength measuring device with real time feedback are used to evaluate both physical qualities and physiological functions (i.e. the level of local forearm aerobic and anaerobic capacity). This approach would be more helpful for optimizing the training process and may be applied in other sports where peripheral factors are of high importance.