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Publications (71)
The strategy to adopt for the development of a new lipstick formula requires, as a first step, the definition of the most important characteristics of a modern product. Successively, the identification of the key properties of any innovative ingredient is necessary. Then, a comprehension of the key parameters in the establishment of a stable equili...
The increasing concern about the environmental impact of ingredients largely used as sunscreens today is pushing research towards new frontiers for the synthesis and degradation potential of innovative sun protection structures. This study deals with the design, synthesis, efficacy evaluation, and environmental impact of new photo-stable molecules...
The aim of this study is showing the filming and skin barrier protective properties of a new ingredient based on ceramides and trehalose and carried in lipophilic vesicles composed of lecithin and cholesterol (or phytosterols). Through an in vivo study, the restructuring and hydrating properties of this trehalose and ceramides compound have been ev...
Lignins have shown remarkable antioxidant properties; acting as “scavengers” of free radicals physiologically produced by cell metabolisms; and exerting a protective action caused by the strong ability of these molecules to absorb UV radiation. Through preliminary Molecular Modeling studies and experimental studies in vivo and in vitro, a lignin hy...
Patch testing is the standard procedure used to diagnose allergic contact dermatitis. It is an in-vivo test, which reproduces the reaction to a contact allergen. This in-vivo test aims to reproduce the elicitation phase of allergic contact dermatitis and is performed applying allergens under occlusion on the skin under standardized conditions. Thes...
Caesalpinia spinosa gum is a vegetal polysaccharide obtained by grinding the endosperm of Caesalpinia spinosa seeds. It is commonly used as a rheology modifier in food industry. Its rheological behavior, compatibility with common cosmetic ingredients, and application as a thickener in different types of cosmetic formulations were investigated in th...
The hair follicle (HF) is a dynamic "mini-organ" which undergoes bi-continuous cycles of growth, destruction and rest. The molecular mechanisms underlying the HF cycle are complex yet not fully understood. Anyhow, it is clear that the epithelial-mesenchymal interactions, and in particular the cross-talk between dermal papilla fibroblast (DPF) and t...
In this study, the values of some scalp basal parameters, collected during several clinical studies involving a total of 254 subjects with androgenic alopecia, were analyzed. Subjects’ values were grouped by age and gender, and the differences between groups were examined. The density values (n° of hair/cm2) and the percentages of anagen and teloge...
Dehydration of genital areas, known as vaginal dryness, frequently affects woman’s life, from fertile to postmenopausal period, and must be treated with specific products, including proper intimate cleansing. Based on that, two new cleanser formulations, characterized by Hyaluronic acid 0.2% as main ingredient, have been developed (Hyalo Gyn® intim...
The labeling of cosmetic products provides a set of obligations, as reported in the Regulation 1223/2009, which came into force in Europe in July 2013. The indications reported on the label are intended to enable the clear identification of the functionality and proper use of cosmetics, ensure the protection of the consumer from the commercial aspe...
The sun-and-skin interactions have controversial sides. Besides important beneficial effects, we need to take into consideration also some serious harmful results. In particular, these are connected to the portion of the solar spectrum traditionally identified as ultraviolet type A and B. The topical application of sunscreens (and the avoidance of...
All substances in the nanosized dimensions have new, unexpected properties, compared to their standard-size status, so offering enormous potential for innovative applications. In particular, their enhanced interactions with the skin could lead to new activity performances in cosmetic formulations. For this reason, a growing opinion is that nanotech...
The extract of Boswellia serrata showed clinical activity in the treatment of different chronic inflammatory diseases, and have been shown to treat clinical manifestations of photoageing on facial skin and radiotherapy skin damage in breast cancer patients. In this pilot study we investigated the efficacy of an emulsion containing olibanum (Bosexil...
Alkyl glucosides and alkyl poly-glucosides are widely used as wetting agents, surfactants and emulsifiers in several industrial and cosmetic products. They are known as well-tolerated and are usually added to the primary surfactants in order to reduce the irritating potential of the main foaming agents.
Recently, some authors suggested that allergi...
Background
Allergic contact dermatitis caused by (meth)acrylates is well known, both in occupational and in non-occupational settings. Contact hypersensitivity to electrocardiogram (ECG) electrodes containing (meth)acrylates is rarely reported.Objective
To report the first case of contact dermatitis caused by acrylic acid impurity in ECG electrodes...
Brenta’s silt-clay (BrentaKer , EGAP, Italy) is a natural sediment containing minerals pertaining to Italian Dolomite Alps mountains, which is extracted from the catchment area of Brenta river. Particle-size distribution, mineralogical, chemical, tensiometric investigations with some observational fndings open to new perspectives for its applicatio...
In this study we investigated the correlation between the basal skin hydration data, elasticity and surface roughness and the age of volunteers. Then, we analyzed the variations obtained at the end of the treatments with anti-age cosmetic products for the face. The aim was to investigate the susceptibility to improvement of volunteers from differen...
Brenta’s silt-clay (BrentaKer®, EGAP, Italy) is a natural sediment containing
minerals pertaining to Italian Dolomite Alps mountains, which is extracted from the
catchment area of Brenta river. Particle-size distribution, mineralogical, chemical,
tensiometric investigations with some observational fi ndings open to new perspectives
for its applicat...
The present invention concerns the use of hydroxyapatite as the physical sunscreening agent in synergistic association with at least one chemical sunscreening agent, in products designed for application to the skin in order to protect the same from solar UV radiation. Particularly, cosmetic compositions are described comprising the sunscreen produc...
Background:
Pentacyclic triterpenoids improve epidermal barrier function and induce collagen production. Here, their effects on cutaneous aging by means of objective instrumental measurements were elucidated.
Methods:
Reconstituted human epidermis, cultivated keratinocytes and fibroblasts were incubated with Terminalia arjuna triterpenes (T. arj...
Substances in the nano-sized dimensions perform newer properties which determine new benefits and special uses in cosmetics. Nano-materials may have special interactions with biological systems and physiological effects that are different from conventional or bulk ingredients. Concerns about the non-controlled potential penetration of nano-material...
Cellulite is a very common skin alteration with a complex pathogenesis; different degrees of severity of cellulite can be observed in most part of people after puberty, and numerous cosmetic or more invasive treatments have been proposed, with variable efficacy. Since reproducible methods of evaluation of the effectiveness of cellulite treatments a...
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is an etiologic cause for non-melanoma skin cancer (basalcell carcinoma and squamouscell carcinoma) and malignant melanoma, but the spectral range promoting the tumor induction is still to be explained. It follows that it is mandatory the complete photoprotection from sunscreens towards the whole UV range. In the European...
Parabens were introduced in the 30s and currently represent the most common preservatives in cosmetics, in topical as well as systemic drugs, and in alimentary products. Chemically, they are p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkylesters. Methyl, ethyl, propyl and butylparaben are frequently used, the former two especially. Their great popularity results from a...
The horny layer of the epidermis consists of keratinized flat cells surrounded and held together by lipid materials that are able from ordered structures were water molecules can be arranged with some type of regular spacing. When the amount or the composition of lipids around the skin cells is for any reason modified, the organization of water in...
Antimicrobial preservation of cosmetics is a multifaceted issue. The list of European Union (EU) allowed preservants for cosmetics includes many molecules with known side effects in terms of skin irritation and sensitization. The historical background about safety concerns of preservants, and the latest news, with the updated concentration and use...
Topical corticosteroids (CS) are widely used in dermatology because of their anti-inflammatory, anti-proliferative and immuno-suppressive properties. On the other hand, the prolonged application of corticosteroids may induce adverse reactions such as allergic contact dermatitis (ACD). Patch testing CS often poses methodological issues correlated to...
Synopsis
The fruits of various Zanthoxylum species are used as a spice in the Chinese and Japanese cuisine because of their delicate flavour and tingling properties. The lipophilic hydroxyalkamides hydroxy α‐ and β‐sanshools ( 1a,b ) have been identified as the tingling principles of these plants, and previous studies have validated a sanshool‐rich...
Photocontact dermatitis to Ficus carica is induced by furocoumarins present in sap. These substances are generally considered to cause phototoxic reactions.
We conducted a patch test and histopathological study of patients with phytophoto contact dermatitis from the fig tree to evaluate the mechanism underlying the photoreaction.
Patch and photopat...
IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (4) 323–330
Presented as a podium presentation at the 25th IFSCC Congress 2008 in Barcelona, Spain.
Several classes of pigments are responsible for coloration in birds. Melanin pigments most commonly appear in bird feathers and bare parts. They impart black, brown and chestnut hues. Carotenoids are a second group of colori...
IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (1) 5–9
‘Luctor et emergo’ means to struggle, fight or wrestle in order to come up, win or just emerge and survive. It was adopted as a national motto by the Zeeland region in Holland to underline their daily battle with high tides. Indeed, this Latin motto effectively illustrates the struggle to make things work, that is...
Sun exposure is the most important cause of photocarcinogenesis, photoaging and photoimmunosuppression. An increased incidence of skin cancer, primarily squamous cell or basal cell carcinomas, has been observed in recent years everywhere in the western part of the World, where the vogue for sunbathing and the use of sunbeds is still today a habit d...
Background Nowadays, good health, beauty and fitness are perceived as qualities that are required for social acceptance and professional success. The cosmetic surgery industry is dynamic and growth levels reach record high. The technological advancements, especially in non-surgical procedures such as anti-aging techniques are developing with an ast...
Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) and photo-ACD are cell-mediated delayed hypersensitivity reactions of the skin caused by a wide range of substances. Topical ketoprofen (KP), a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID), can induce ACD and photo-ACD. Patients with ACD and/or photo-ACD to KP frequently show concomitant sensitization to other subst...
The information available about the ingredients used in the production of cosmetics has been continuously increasing over the last 30 years. Today, cosmetics are easier to use than ever and along with this the main aims of cosmetology are to "build" cosmetics that are skin-friendly and are as safe as possible. This is a particularly arduous task an...
A product's packaging and claimed efficacy may stimulate pleasant emotions during the use of cosmetics, thus enhancing their perceived benefits. The aim of this study was to evaluate if smart packaging and strongly claimed efficacy attributes can influence the objectively measured efficacy, allowing a true placebo effect to be associated with a giv...
Dihydroxystearic acid (DHSA) has been prepared from palm oleic acid via catalytic reaction. An in vivo test confirmed that the use of DHSA at 5% and below is nonirritating. With two vicinal alcohol groups positioned at C9 and C10, DHSA has been found to be applicable in cosmetics as thickeners or gelling agents. Stearic acid is known to be used as...
The dermatological uses of Azelaic acid are related to its anti-sebhorreic, anti-mycotic and anti-acne properties. However, its limits in topical formulations are well known, even when it is used at lower concentrations than the pharmacological ones. Firstly, a high percentage amount is required to be effective. Secondly, being insoluble at high co...
Since it has been found that all subjects with contact allergy to cocamidopropylbetaine (CAPB) have positive reactions to 3-dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA), and reports have appeared in literature of the sensitizing action of amidoamine in products containing CAPB, we aimed to verify the possibility that pure amidoamine may have a sensitizing role...
Detergents are products whose composition has adequately been studied in order to eliminate superficial dirt and cutaneous secretions. Their constituents are frequently able to emphasize an allergic contact dermatitis (ACD); the capacity to induce ACD, however, is object of discussion, with the exception of the amphoteric tensioactives. These ampho...
Amphoacetates are organic compounds used in many industrial applications and in cosmetic formulations for the skin, hair and mucosa, as surfactants, mild foaming and cleansing agents in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 50%. Despite the fact that they have been in use for many years, cases of contact allergy to them are extremely rare. We describ...
Topically applied cosmetic products can be helpful in improving aged skin condition. The study shows how oral fish cartilage food supplementation can be helpful in improving the treatment of aging skin. 30 healthy women with signs of skin ageing entered the study. 15 were treated with a food supplement based on polysaccharides derived from fish car...
Keywords:allergic contact dermatitis;organophosphorus pesticides;chlorpyriphos-methyl;fenthion;methidathion;parathion-methyl;malathion;cross-sensitivity;occupational;agriculture
A 35-year-old woman developed contact cheilitis and a follicular eczema of the face after the use of a lipstick. Patch testing showed positive reactions to fragrance mix and the above-mentioned lipstick. Among the various ingredients of the lipstick, only maleated soybean oil (MSO) 20% pet. gave allergic reaction. MSO is an amber-yellow viscous sub...
10 out of 22 marble workers handling a bicomponent resin, based on epoxy resin and ortho-cresyl glycidyl ether (CGE), developed contact dermatitis and airborne contact dermatitis within 20 days to 2 months of exposure. All 22 subjects were patch tested with epoxy resin, bisphenol A, epichlorohydrin and a series of reactive diluents. The 10 symptoma...
10 out of 22 marble workers handling a bicomponent resin, based on epoxy resin and ortho-cresyl glycidyl ether (CGE), developed Contact dermatitis and airborne contact dermatitis within 20 days to 2 months of exposure. All 22 subjects were patch tested with epoxy resin, bisphenol A, epichlorohydrin and a series of reactive diluents. The 10 symptoma...
Since finding that all subjects with contact allergy to cocamidopropylbetaine give positive reactions to 3-dimethylaminopropylamine (DMPA), we wished to verify whether sensitization to other industrially-used tensioactives might also be due to content of DMPA as an impurity. We also investigated the possible "carrier action" that tensioactives migh...
Synopsis
This paper assesses the suitability of UVB induced skin erythema measured by reflectance spectrophotometry in humans as a model for differentiating topical efficacy of free radical scavengers. Two different formulations (aqueous gels and O/W emulsions) of each active compound (tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, superoxide dismutase (SOD), glu...
In the past year, 1200 consecutive eczematous patients were tested with cocamidopropylbetaine 1% aq. Contact allergy was evinced in 46 subjects (3.8%), while irritant reactions (slight erythema only) were observed in 15 cases (1.25%). 30 out of 46 patients with allergic reactions were subsequently tested with the substances used in the synthesis of...
The predictable toxic effects of some surfactants, their blends and some preserving agents on human fibroblast cultures were investigated with in vitro tests, with the aim of finding a possible correlation between the biologic evaluations and some physical characteristics of detergent solutions. Lactate dehydrogenase release into the medium was use...
Synopsis
Perfluoro‐polymethyl‐isopropyl ethers (PPIE) are known for their low surface tension and spreading characteristics. Their use in detergent systems was difficult because of their insolubility in most fluids (except fluorinated ones), but microdispersions have been obtained with surfactant blends, the compositions of which minimize the inter...
Dihydroxystearic acid (DHSA) has been prepared from palm oleic acid via catalytic reaction. In-vivo test confirmed that the use of DHSA at 5% and below is non-irritant. With two vicinal alcohol groups positioning at C9 and C10, DHSA has been found to be applicable in cosmetics as thickener or gelling agents. Stearic acid is known to be used as stic...
By catalytic reaction from palm oil, di-hydroxystearic acid (DHSA) is easily obtained. Having two vicinal alcohol groups and one weak acid group in a long alkyl chain suggest hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, together with a wide range of possible derivatives. Solid surfaces affinity could also be foreseen. Although this molecule existed since...
The immediate lifting effect of a new anti-wrinkle cosmetic serum (Instant Lifting) was eva-luated with the application on the skin of the face (periorbital areas, lip contour) and on the back of the hands in 21 women and 3 men, 50-65 years old (average age: 58,3 years). Before and 5 minutes after product application, cutaneous replicas and digital...