José S. Antunes do Carmo

• Associate Professor
• Professor (Associate) at University of Coimbra

Errata do livro "Processos Físicos e Modelos Computacionais em Engenharia Costeira", publicado pela Imprensa da Universidade de Coimbra (Coimbra University Press), em 2016.

Traditional hard engineering solutions have shown weaknesses in mitigating erosion processes in vulnerable coastal areas, contributing in some cases to their aggravation, which makes it necessary to study innovative nature-based engineering solutions. This research deals with an in-depth analysis of hydro-morphodynamic modelling results for optimiz...

The coastal zone is a fascinating place that comprises the interface between sea and land. This interface, which is both very dynamic and sensitive, has been affected by strong urban and industrial pressures, and an increase in both traffic and recreational uses, leading to the deterioration of natural habitats and the growing instability of reside...

Estuaries are areas that are vulnerable to the impacts of climate change. Understanding how these impacts affect these complex environments and their uses is essential. This paper presents a work based on an analytical solution and 2DH and 3D versions of the Delft3D numerical model to simulate the Minho River estuary and its saline wedge length und...

The Iberian Atlantic coast is typically featured by incisions that deeply affect the continental shelf, commonly known as submarine canyons. Among the submarine canyons located off the Portuguese Atlantic coast are the canyons of Porto, Aveiro, Nazaré and Lisboa-Setúbal, being of note the canyons of Nazaré and Lisboa-Setúbal for their dimensions, c...

The management of the infrastructure of the Mondego Hydroelectric Plant Development proved to be ineffective at coping with the long periods of continuous rain that occurred in the 2000/2001 hydrological year, with the city of Coimbra and the Lower Mondego alluvial plain being severely affected. On 27 January 2001, the maximum capacity of the Agu...

RESUMO: O número, dimensão e intensidade das tempestades e furacões ocorridos no Atlântico Norte no último século revelam um aumento significativo do poder destrutivo destes eventos climáticos, os quais tenderão a agravar-se com as alterações climáticas em curso. Devido ao aumento do nível do mar e a processos associados à ação das ondas, prevê-se...

Vulnerabilities and risks in coastal areas have increased, especially since the midpoint of the last century, and a much more pronounced increase is expected after the midpoint of the current century. It has become clear that human activity is the main cause of imbalances, both directly, through local actions, and indirectly, through contributions...

This work also aims to encourage coastal managers to implement new management concepts and thus prepare themselves with new protection approaches to meet the increased demand for accommodation alternatives in coastal areas.

Numerical models are useful tools for studying complex wave–wave and wave–current interactions in coastal areas. They are also very useful for assessing the potential risks of flooding, hydrodynamic actions on coastal protection structures, bathymetric changes along the coast, and scour phenomena on structures’ foundations. In the coastal zone, the...

Resumo: São indiscutíveis as vantagens decorrentes da criação de um plano de água na cidade de Coimbra para atividades turísticas (navegação), práticas náuticas (vela, remo, canoagem) e fruição lúdica das margens. Contudo, a construção do açude-ponte modificou as condições de equilíbrio, ou quase-equilíbrio, pré-existentes, nomeadamente através da...

This book addresses recent advances in the field of river systems. Chapters cover a wide range of topics including artificialization of rivers and banks, technical aspects of flood and sediment dynamics, physical processes and institutional vulnerabilities, watershed management and collaborative governance, water quality analysis and protection mea...

Preface and Contents of the book "River Basin Management - Sustainability Issues and Planning Strategies".

In March 2001, a serious accident occurred in Portugal during a flood on the Douro River, next to Porto, Portugal. The collapse of the Hintze Ribeiro Bridge killed 59 people traveling in a bus and in three cars that fell into the Douro River. This bridge was built at the end of the 19th century on a curve of the Douro River, next to the mouth of th...

This special issue of the Modelling journal aims to develop and explore modelling tools applicable to the ocean and the coastal zone to support researchers in different areas, oceanographers, engineers, and coastal managers. Mathematical developments, numerical implementations, model validations using field and/or laboratory data, and case studies...

São indiscutíveis as vantagens decorrentes da criação de um plano de água na cidade de Coimbra para atividades turísticas (navegação), práticas náuticas (vela, remo, canoagem, etc.) e fruição lúdica das margens (parques de lazer), mas parece igualmente claro que não foram devidamente acauteladas em fase de projeto as consequências negativas resulta...

São indiscutíveis as vantagens decorrentes da criação de um plano de água na cidade de Coimbra para atividades turísticas (navegação), práticas náuticas (vela, remo, canoagem, etc.) e fruição lúdica das margens (parques de lazer), mas parece igualmente claro que não foram devidamente acauteladas em fase de projeto as consequências negativas resulta...

O cálculo tradicional do risco assume que o nível do mar é estático ao longo de todo o período de vida de uma estrutura. Com base nesta suposição de probabilidade constante o modelo ou equação do risco assume a forma tradicional. Assim, por exemplo, para um período de retorno de 100 anos o risco, ou probabilidade de ocorrência de um evento extremo,...

O cálculo tradicional do risco assume que o nível do mar é estático ao longo de todo o período de vida de uma estrutura. Com base nesta suposição de probabilidade constante o modelo ou equação do risco assume a forma tradicional. Assim, por exemplo, para um período de retorno de 100 anos o risco, ou probabilidade de ocorrência de um evento extremo,...

Currently, there is a progressive divestment of some institutions with strong traditions and skills in physical modelling and their consequent impoverishment, to the detriment of numerical modelling. For many reasons, the economic imperatives and the exponential growth of computational means and numerical methods should certainly not be excluded. I...

We are witnessing a progressive divestment of some institutions with strong traditions and skills in physical modelling and their consequent impoverishment, to the detriment of numerical modelling. For many reasons, the economic imperatives and the exponential growth of computational means and numerical methods should certainly not be excluded. In...

Call for River Basin Management book chapters

Coastal defence works, such as breakwaters, are structures that aim to support the action of waves and dissipate their energy. Therefore, they provide conditions for stabilizing the coast, protecting ports, beaches and other coastal infrastructures and ecosystems. Semicircular breakwaters have been applied in different locations around the world du...

Coastal areas accommodate a great part of large metropolises as they support a great amount of economic and leisure activities. The attraction of people to coastal zones is contributing to an intense and continuous urbanization of these areas, while the ecosystems are threatened by the increase of natural extreme weather events (e.g., intensity and...

The coastal and marine environment is a major supplier of goods and services, such as food, fossil fuels, energy, transport and recreation, and hosts invaluable biodiversity of complex ecosystems that warrant the sustainability of our planet. However, human activities, such as tourism, urbanization, navigation, fishing, agriculture and aquaculture,...

This book systematizes the concepts of contemporary coastal zone management and suggests possible structural and non-structural management tools for decision-making processes. Some successful adaptation measures and case studies on oceanic processes and coastal protection are discussed. High-frequency communications in coastal and marine environmen...

The basic concept of hard engineering is to ensure safety at any cost by fixing or even advancing the shoreline, and thus ignoring natural functions. Such structural measures do not solve medium- and long-term problems, as they merely transfer the risk of erosion to other areas, thus increasing the risk of erosion in those areas and possibly increa...

It is known that hard engineering structures can be highly effective when used properly, but they can be overcome by events beyond their design capacity. Such structural measures also transfer the risk of erosion and possible flooding, reducing the risk in one location but increasing the risk in another. Moreover, investment and monitoring costs ar...

Accidents in the construction industry are relatively frequent and, contrary to what might be expected, there have been no significant changes in their number in recent decades. Although some accidents are caused by adverse natural conditions, the vast majority are fundamentally due to human action. The natural hazards that have contributed most to...

Until the 1980s, the primary goal of coastal works projects was to ensure safety at any cost. This was addressed in an essentially physical manner. Today, concerns are no longer limited to safety; lifestyle and quality of life have become essential components in the successful construction of coastal infrastructure. Other aspects of development hav...

In the recent past, coastal public works solutions were generally designed as engineering problems. By that time, prior to the 1980s, the primary goal of coastal works projects was to maximize safety, taking into account only engineering knowledge and existing economic constraints. Today, concerns are no longer limited to safety; lifestyle and qual...

The Department of Earth Sciences of the Faculty of Sciences and Technology of the University of Coimbra, the MARE-Centre for Marine and Environmental Sciences and the IATV-Institute for the Environment Technology and Life took over the organization of the XI Symposium on the Iberian Atlantic Margin (MIA 2018). The study of the continental margins...

Stormwater urban drainage systems are typically designed in open channel flow. Pipe sewers must have enough capacity to transport maximum design flows for a given frequency of the project rainfall. The classic rational method or related procedures that are based on rational approaches are still currently used to a great extent, particularly for sma...

The main purpose of this chapter is to study storm occurrences on the Portuguese northwestern coast, explore the characteristics and pathways of the tropical storms that affect the area, and most importantly, evaluate the vulnerability of this coast to storm surges with the aid of hydrodynamic models. The variation of storm surge heights depends on...

The ability of numerical models to deal with wave breaking processes and dry areas is of paramount importance for applications in coastal zones and dam breaks. The mathematical models commonly used in such real problems are usually based on Boussinesq-type equations and, to a small extend, on Serre equations. However, these standard models are weak...

Accidents in the construction industry are relatively frequent and, contrary to what might be expected, there have been no significant changes in their number in recent decades. Although some accidents are caused by adverse natural conditions, the vast majority are fundamentally due to human action. The natural hazards that have contributed most to...

This book addresses different aspects of natural hazards and vulnerabilities, with a focus on prevention and protection. It consists of nine chapters, five on flood events addressing vulnerabilities, risk assessments, impacts, sensitivity analyses, and mitigation measures, two on climate change and reconstruction of natural hazard events such as av...

Due to the combined action of several natural phenomena such as waves, tides, currents, wind, sedimentary movements and extreme weather events including storms, the coast is constantly changing. However, ongoing climate change, including human action, has been changing natural patterns and profoundly affecting coastal ecosystems, as they are partic...

Coastal zones face severe weaknesses and high-risk situations due to coastal threats like erosion and storms and due to an increasing intensive occupation. Tropical storms events can contribute to the occurrence of these situations, by causing storm surges with high water levels and, consequently, episodes of waves overtopping and coastal flooding....

Sea level rise constitutes a serious threat to countries whose coastal areas have high population densities. However, it should be noted that sea-level rise is not the only cause of increased vulnerability. Other factors, such as storms, wave climate, and the lack of sediments supply to the coast imply a current need for more appropriate strategies...

Tens of millions of people living in coastal zones will be affected in the next few decades by climate change and coastal flooding due to sea-level rise and associated increases in wave action and surges. The issue of sea-level rise is complex and produces a range of environmental problems. As the sea level rises, the water depth increases and the...

Coastal zones currently face severe weaknesses and are subject to high-risk situations. Tropical storm events can contribute to the occurrence of these high-risk situations by causing storm surges with high water levels and, consequently, episodes of wave-overtopping and coastal flooding. This work considers a series of storm scenarios and analyzes...

Antunes do Carmo, J.S., 2018. Climate change, adaptation measures, and integrated coastal zone management: The new protection paradigm for the Portuguese coastal zone. Journal of Coastal Research, 34(3), 687-703. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The efforts made to reduce the causes and mitigate the effects of global climate change continue...

The so-called Serre or Green and Naghdi equations are a well-known set of fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive equations that describe the propagation of long surface waves in shallow water. In order to extend its range of application to intermediate water depths, some modifications have been proposed in the literature. In this work, we analyze a...

The efforts made to reduce the causes and mitigate the effects of global climate change continue to be critical in coastal areas. Many of the adaptation strategies implemented in coastal areas remain inadequate or ineffective. Using primarily events and interventions carried out along the Portuguese Atlantic coast, this work aims to show the paradi...

In the (recent) past, coastal works were generally of an engineering nature. The concept in force until the 1980s was to ensure safety at any cost. The issues were addressed and resolved in an essentially physical context. At that time, an engineer took full responsibility for analyzing the coastal issue, producing the project, conducting the work...

Vulnerabilities and risks in coastal areas have been increasing, particularly since the middle of the past century, and a much more marked increase is anticipated after the middle of the current century. It is clear that human action has been the primary cause of imbalances, both directly (through local actions) and indirectly (through contribution...

A gestão sustentável das zonas costeiras depende do êxito de uma adaptação integrada ao clima e a outras alterações que tenham em conta e promovam a capacidade de adaptação do sistema. As vulnerabilidades e os riscos nas zonas costeiras têm vindo a aumentar, em especial desde meados do século passado, e tendem a um aumento muito mais acentuado a pa...

The economic, social and environmental conditions of various European river basins and estuarine systems have changed dramatically in the last decades as a consequence of anthropogenic effects, and they will go on changing in the years to come due to increasing human pressure. Particularly in Portugal, various river-estuary systems have undergone s...

ACTAS DO SEMINÁRIO - INOVAÇÃO E GESTÃO COLABORATIVA PARA A SUSTENTABILIDADE DAS ZONAS COSTEIRAS, BRAGA, 9 DE JUNHO DE 2015

Numerical models are useful instruments for studying complex superposition of wave-wave and wave-current interactions in coastal and estuarine regions, and to investigate the interaction of waves with complex bathymetries or structures built in nearshore areas. The ability of the standard Boussinesq and Serre or Green and Naghdi equations to reprod...

Após identificação de diversas situações de grande vulnerabilidade e risco presentes num trecho da costa portuguesa, continua esta obra com uma abordagem de aspetos relativos à hidrodinâmica e a desenvolvimentos numéricos básicos no domínio da engenharia costeira. Seguem-se descrições dos processos de geração das ondas no mar e das transformações q...

The sustainable management of coastal areas depends on the success of an integrated adaptation to climate and other changes that take into account and promote the system's ability to adapt. A proper definition of spatial and temporal scales is crucial in vulnerability assessment, in any attempt to establish good management actions and adaptation op...

The sustainable management of coastal areas depends on the success of an integrated adaptation to climate and other changes that consider and promote the system’s ability to adapt. In vulnerability assessment, a proper definition of spatial and temporal scales is crucial to any attempt to establish good management actions and adaptation options. Th...

Numerical models are a useful instrument for studying complex superposition of wave–wave and wave–current interactions in coastal and estuarine regions and to investigate the interaction of waves with complex bathymetries or structures built in nearshore areas. Moreover, since their applications are significantly less expensive and more flexible th...

A humanidade enfrenta hoje mudanças globais de evolução rápida e sem precedentes, a vários níveis, destacando-se o crescimento populacional, as migrações, as mudanças climáticas, as cheias e inundações, a desertificação e secas, a degradação dos recursos, a escassez de alimentos, a economia e as suas regras. A gestão participada e integrada dos rec...

Numerical models are useful instruments for studying complex superposition of wave-wave and wave-current interactions in coastal and estuarine regions, and to investigate the interaction of waves with complex bathymetries or structures built in nearshore areas. The ability of the standard Boussinesq and Serre or Green and Naghdi equations to reprod...

A fragilidade da zona costeira Portuguesa em certas praias e arribas face aos processos naturais e à atividade humana, incluindo os seus ambientes físicos e biológicos, são um problema central concreto em diversas áreas. Na realidade, extremadas ou não por ações climáticas, tem-se assistido a fenómenos de erosão que podem causar acidentes com eleva...

O modelo de Bailard (Bailard, 1981) não considera a contribuição da aceleração-assimetria induzida Qso no cálculo do caudal sólido total Qst. Como sublinhado em Dubarbier et al. (2015), a generalidade dos modelos usados para estimar a evolução de perfis de praia são ineficientes no que concerne à simulação de formas de fundo e migração de bancos de...

The author thanks the discussers for their comments. The author would like to complement the contribution of the discussers with a brief analysis of the most striking approaches in the context of the shallow water wave theory. In particular, the dispersive characteristics of some Boussinesq-type approaches are discussed.

The economic, social and environmental conditions of various European river basins and estuarine systems have changed dramatically in the last decades as a consequence of anthropogenic effects, and they will go on changing in the years to come due to increasing human pressure. Particularly in Portugal, various river-estuary systems have undergone s...

Numerical models are a useful instrument for studying complex superposition of wave-wave and wave-current interactions in coastal and estuarine regions, and to investigate the interaction of waves with complex bathymetries or structures built in nearshore areas. The ability of Boussinesq-type models and Serre equations (or Green and Naghdi) to repr...

With reference to the World Water Vision of the World Water Council (Cosgrove and Rijsberman, 2000), four key points can be identified and should be considered in relation to integrated water resources management. The first relates to a holistic approach, on the basis of which participatory decisions will be taken that will be technically and scien...

When compared to standard Shields estimations for the initial motion of sediment transport, field observations and laboratory experiments performed in steady non-uniform flows show pronounced deviations. While recognizing the importance of considering the channel’s slope influence on the critical shear stress, the discrepancies found in many experi...

A adaptação da Sociedade para lidar com os perigos, e assim minimizar os riscos, pode ser conseguida por obras de Engenharia, pelo comportamento humano, ou por ações legais de emergência. As opções de Engenharia incluem defesas costeiras melhoradas, reforço das existentes e novas construções. Mudanças no comportamento da Sociedade podem ser induzid...

General background: - Highly exposed to energetic sea actions; - Many low areas without effective protections; - Very degraded natural protection systems; - Low amounts of sediment in transit; -Inadequate or inefficient management. The increased demand and human occupation of the coast have greatly contributed to the existing weaknesses, due...

The environmental and socio-economic importance of the coastal areas is widely recognized, but these areas face today severe weaknesses and high-risk situations. The increased demand and human occupation of the coast has greatly contributed to increase such weaknesses. Today, throughout the world, in all countries with coastlines, episodes of waves...

RESUMo: os modelos numéricos são instrumentos úteis para estudar a propagação de ondas em meios com diferentes características, desde águas profundas (ao largo) até condições de água pouco profunda, e investigar a interação de ondas com batimetrias complexas ou estruturas construídas em regiões costeiras e estuarinas.As capacidades de modelos do ti...

RESUMO Tradicionalmente, todas as intervenções na zona costeira eram focadas no projeto, sendo este integralmente gerido por um engenheiro. Grande parte da engenharia usada nos projetos era baseada na experiência que, em combinação com a prática da engenharia, constituía uma verdadeira regra de ouro. Entretanto, e em paralelo com a evolução dos mei...

The classical Boussinesq equations only incorporate weak dispersion and weak nonlinearity, and are valid only for long waves in shallow waters. The classical Serre equations (or Green and Naghdi) are fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive. Thus, as for the classical Boussinesq models, Serre’s equations are valid only for shallow water conditions. To...

The coastal region of Portugal has been in great demand for both permanent living and for tourism and recreation. being the vicinity to beaches and sea a decisive factor in that quest, this area has developed more than the countryside. Primarily as a result of this development and the sedimentary deficits that have been increasing, the Portuguese c...

Os riscos associados à inundação e galgamento de estruturas de defesa costeira são uma constante preocupação na costa portuguesa, sendo que situações de emergência provocadas pelo mar são frequentes, pondo em causa a segurança de pessoas, bens e o próprio património natural. Para tal, é importante desenvolver uma metodologia que permita avaliar os...

Dams are built for many purposes: water storage for potable water supply, livestock water supply, irrigation, fire-fighting, flood control, recreation, navigation and hydroelectric power, or simply to contain mine tailings. Dams may be multifunctional, serving two or more of these purposes. However, large reservoirs constructed near urban areas con...

The existing serious problems in most countries with extensive coastal zones are in some way, directly or indirectly linked to the progressive urban occupation of these areas, resulting in a strong degradation of many natural protection structures. Simultaneously, it is also clear that activities and interventions of anthropogenic origin (such as t...

Numerical models are a useful instrument for studying complex superposition of wave-wave and wave-current interactions in coastal and estuarine regions, and to investigate the interaction of waves with complex bathymetries or structures built in nearshore areas; moreover, since their applications are significantly less expensive and more flexible t...

The Portuguese coastal zone is of major importance to the level of national economy and to the environment, and supports a huge biodiversity and landscape. However, there has been a significant population increase within the coastal zone generating strong pressures on the environment; which thus becomes progressively weaker. To prevent and anticip...

The Serre or Green and Naghdi equations are fully-nonlinear and weakly dispersive and have a built-in assumption of irrotationality. However, like the standard Boussinesq equations, also Serre’s equations are only valid for long waves in shallow waters. To allow applications in a greater range of h0/l, where h0 and l represent, respectively, depth...

Numerical models are a useful instrument for studying complex superposition of wave-wave and wave-current interactions in coastal and estuarine regions, and to investigate the interaction of waves with complex bathymetries or structures built in nearshore areas; moreover, since their applications are significantly less expensive and more flexible t...

According to recent legislation on dams in some European Countries, the security grades are functions of the accepted potential risks. The potential risks for a reservoir-dam system can be provoked by different hazards, namely: underestimation of design floods, earthquake loads, catastrophic landslide effects, inadequate analysis of structural stab...

"Dams: Structure, Performance and Safety Management" describes the practical aspects necessary to design, manage, monitor, and assess these hydraulic structures. The approaches, used to develop tools and methods for assessing performance and safety of dams largely applied for French cases, has been discussed for aggregating heterogeneous informatio...

The construction of jetties of Figueira da Foz harbor promoted the emergence of the 'Cabedelo Wave', a kind of wave with excellent characteristics for surfing. This hydrodynamic feature contributes to the growth of tourism since it attracts many surfers to this region. More recently, the north jetty has been extended of about 400 m, in order to im...

This paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). This reef is under investigation and consists of a supplementary protection solution for the Leirosa sand dune system located at South of Figueira da Foz, on the Portuguese West coas...

RESUMO: Neste trabalho descreve-se a aplicação de uma metodologia de avaliação de galgamentos de estruturas portuárias ao caso do porto de Ponta Delgada, Açores. Esta metodologia consiste em caraterizar a agitação marítima na zona através de modelos numéricos de propagação de ondas desde o largo até ao interior do porto e calcular os galgamentos ge...

Numerical models are a useful instrument for studying complex superposition of wave-wave and wave-current interactions in coastal and estuarine regions, and to investigate the interaction of waves with complex bathymetries or structures built in nearshore areas; moreover, since their applications are significantly less expensive and more flexible t...

Estudo da influência da variação do nível médio das águas do mar para uma zona da região centro de Portugal (Figueira da Foz), recorrendo a modelação hidrodinâmica de uma situação realista e analisando diferentes cenários hidrodinâmicos: efeito da maré e situações de tempestade, considerando condições atuais do nível médio do mar (NMM) e uma elevaç...

As a new alternative countermeasure to protect the coastal zone and to increase the surfing possibilities in the Leirosa area of Portugal, multifunctional artificial reefs were investigated numerically in this paper. The primary surfing parameters used in the design (i.e., breaker type, peel angle, wave height at breaking, and currents around the a...

This paper examines hydrodynamic pressure diagrams due to earthquakes acting on distinct configurations of the upstream face of a dam, considering the reservoir length and different bathymetries of the reservoir bottom. Two suitable mathematical models are used to obtain the dynamic pressure on the dam, and the reservoir free surface oscillation. C...

RESUMO: O estuário do rio Mondego, localizado na costa ocidental da região centro de Portugal, apresenta inúmeros ecossistemas de elevada produtividade biológica, que se encontram fortemente dependentes do equilíbrio gerado entre a dinâmica do mar e o caudal fluvial. Como tal, é uma área particularmente sensível, muito vulnerável a eventuais efeito...

After a brief discussion on turbulence, the following sections present mathematical and numerical approaches of different complexity. Starting by the fundamental equations of the Fluid Mechanics, a complex unresolved formulation without further assumptions is obtained. Afterwards, considering some physical hypotheses, practical models of different...