Eva López-Rivera

Eva López-Rivera
Universidad de Cádiz | UCA

PhD Sports Science

About

10
Publications
45,896
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81
Citations
Introduction
Eva López-Rivera is a passionate sport climber from Spain who has climbed up to 8c+. She currently works as a climbing coach offering private classes and consultation and giving lectures and workshops across the world. She has a Ph.D., with her doctoral thesis on Finger Strength Training. An avid researcher, she also writes about training in climbing in some magazines and websites, like www.archclimbingwall.com and her own blog: www.en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com. Their current project is 'Finger strength training methodology and Periodization in Climbing: The effects of grip strength training on grip endurance, comparison of different hangboard methods, Hold depth use for monitoring the training load intensity in climbing.'

Publications

Publications (10)
Preprint
Full-text available
Abstract. Intermittent isometric endurance of the forearm flexors is a determinant factor of sport climbing performance. However, little is known about the best method to improve grip endurance in sport climbing regarding maximal or intermittent dead-hang training methods. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of three 8-week finger trai...
Data
This is the extended version of the article presented at the 3rd International Rock Climbing Research Congress, hosted in Telluride, USA fro 5th-7th August 2016 with the title: "Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Training Programs on Maximal Finger Strength in Rock Climbers." The online version can be found on: https://en-eva-lopez.blogs...
Presentation
Full-text available
THE EFFECTS OF A WEIGHTED DEAD-HANG TRAINING PROGRAM ON GRIP STRENGTH AND ENDURANCE IN EXPERT CLIMBERS WITH DIFFERENT LEVELS OF STRENGTH.
Article
Full-text available
Intermittent isometric endurance of the forearm flexors is a determinant factor of sport climbing performance. However, little is known about the best method to improve grip endurance in sport climbing regarding maximal or intermittent dead-hang training methods. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of three 8-week finger training progr...
Article
Full-text available
Nine experienced rock climbers (mean climbing ability of 8a+/b) were randomly assigned to Group A (n = 5) and Group B (n = 4). Both groups trained dead hanging using two different methods. One method consisted of using the minimum edge depth (MED) they could hold the weight of their body; the other consisted of using a bigger edge (18 mm) with maxi...
Article
Background The ability to generate high levels of force with the finger flexor muscles and sustain it for the maximum time was reported as a climbing performance factor. This study aimed to answer the question of which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in non-elite and elite rock climbers: 6, 8, 10, 12 or 14 mm. Metho...
Article
Wer sich beim Klettern verbessern möchte, muss seine Fingerkraft trainieren. Dafür gibt es verschiedene Möglichkeiten. Die erfahrene Kletterin Eva López-Rivera erklärt, was man beim Training mit dem Hangboard beachten muss.
Article
Full-text available
If you want to improve your climbing, you must train your finger strength. There are various ways to do this. Experienced climber Eva López-Rivera explains what you have to know when training with the hangboard. Publication History Article published online: 24 August 2021 download PDF here: https://www.thieme-connect.com/products/ejournals/abstrac...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Grip strength and endurance are determinant factors of climbing performance. The training response to strength training depends on initial strength levels. This study aims to investigate the effects on grip strength and endurance of a 4-week weighted dead-hang training program in experienced rock climbers with a higher (HS; n = 10) and lower streng...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
The effect of three dead-hang training programs, each comprising two 4-week cycles, over strength improvement measured by maximum added weight borne while hanging off a 15 mm edge, was studied in three groups of sport climbers with a sport level of 7c+/8a. The group that performed lower-volume sessions of maximal repetitions with complete pauses (n...

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