Damien Sous

Damien Sous
Université de Toulon | USTV · MIO - Institut Méditerranéen d'Océanologie - UMR 7294

PhD

About

112
Publications
17,707
Reads
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844
Citations
Citations since 2017
53 Research Items
615 Citations
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2017201820192020202120222023050100150
2017201820192020202120222023050100150

Publications

Publications (112)
Conference Paper
Full-text available
A numerical model is proposed to analyse the effect of waves in near-shore waters on the beach groundwater flow. The groundwater flow is modelled by Richards' equation which describes flows in variably-saturated porous media. A wave-driven boundary conditions is prescribed at the beach face. The model abilities are assessed against the results of a...
Article
Full-text available
The present study reports on a series of laboratory experiments aiming to understand and to optimize the deployment of seawall defences over low-lying coral reef flats. The study is performed in a purely cross-shore configuration, with varying wave forcing, water depth, and seawall shapes and positions along the reef flat. The observations reveal t...
Article
Full-text available
An extensive database of in situ measurements of wave impact pressure on the wall of a composite breakwater and associated explanatory variables (i.e., waves, wind, and water level) was collected in a particularly high-energy wave environment. Due to the bottom profile, which includes a wide mound of concrete blocks with a seaward edge that rises t...
Article
Full-text available
Plain Language Summary Coral reefs are essential for human societies and ecosystems in many tropical coastlines. Having reliable hydrodynamic models of these systems is important for proper management and engineering applications. Reefs play an important role in sheltering shorelines by attenuating wave energy and slowing currents. Thus, they must...
Article
Full-text available
A 3D numerical model was set up to investigate the spatial and temporal variations of subtidal circulation in a narrow meandering stratified estuary: the Adour Estuary (France). The hydrodynamic model was validated with field data and reproduced satisfactorily tide, current and salinity observations. The results highlighted a fortnightly switch in...
Poster
Full-text available
Presentation of the calibration process of a D3D-Wave spectral model in the context of the island of Maupiti (French Polynesia). This poster was presented at the Salon international du littoral, enjeux méditerranéens, Nov 2021, La Grande-Motte, France.
Article
Full-text available
Coral reefs are an essential source of marine biodiversity, but they are declining at an alarming rate under the combined effects of global change and human pressure. A precise mapping of coral reef habitat with high spatial and time resolutions has become a necessary step for monitoring their health and evolution. This mapping can be achieved remo...
Article
Full-text available
The Vaccarès Lagoon System, located in the central part of the Rhône Delta (France), is a complex shallow coastal lagoon, exposed to a typical Mediterranean climate and a specific hydrological regime affected by man-controlled exchanges with the sea and agricultural drainage channels. In this article, we report the results obtained by a series of m...
Article
Full-text available
The present paper is specifically focused on enclosed or semi-enclosed basins where the wind is the dominant driver of water surface tilting, leading to the so-called wind tide contributing to water levels rise. Wind-induced free surface tilting is studied using the 1-D steady form of the depth-averaged shallow water (Saint-Venant) momentum equatio...
Article
Full-text available
Numerical solution of Richards’ equation remains challenging to get robust, accurate and cost-effective results, particularly for moving sharp wetting fronts. An adaptive strategy for both space and time is proposed to deal with 2D sharp wetting fronts associated with varying and possibly vanishing diffusivity caused by nonlinearity, heterogeneity...
Poster
Full-text available
Richards' equation, seepage, weighted DG method, Adaptive Mesh Refinement, a posteriori error estimation, BDF, swash groundwater.
Article
Climate fluctuations affect a wide range of environmental factors that may impact fish populations with various response mechanisms. For a major part of world fisheries stocks, only abundance time-series are available. Relations between abundance of these species and ocean variables, including long term trends and patterns of seasonal change, remai...
Article
Full-text available
Microplastic (MP) debris is recognized to be one of the most serious threats to marine environments. They are found in all seas and oceanic basins worldwide, even in the most remote areas. This is further proof that the transport of MPs is very efficient. In the present study, we focus our attention on MPs’ transport owing to the Stokes drift gener...
Article
Full-text available
Wave impact has been identified as the main source of failure for coastal breakwater. While wave transformation over low to mild sloping beaches have been widely studied, shoaling, breaking, reflection and dissipation over steep and very rough slopes are much less documented, especially in situ. The Artha breakwater, south-west of France, is a comp...
Article
Full-text available
The aim of the study is to understand the wind effect on mean water level variation in semi-enclosed shallow basins. The studied physical phenomenon is nearly steady water surface tilting due to wind stress, the so-called wind tide (Platzman (1963)). During strong wind conditions, wind tides can have significant consequences on low-lying areas such...
Article
Full-text available
This paper presents detailed laboratory experiments investigating the effect onshore and offshore wind conditions have on nearshore wave dynamics, including extreme winds. The experiments were performed using monochromatic waves and a linearly sloping bed. The results show that offshore wind conditions delay wave breaking and promote steep breakers...
Article
Full-text available
We analyze Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of wave‐induced circulation collected during a 3‐week field experiment at a high‐energy mesotidal barred beach with the presence of a 500‐m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave and tide conditions were found to largely impact circulation patterns. Three main regimes were identified dep...
Article
Full-text available
The abundance and distribution of microplastics in estuaries have been barely documented, and generally without accounting for the vertical structure in the water column. This study presents the very first data on the occurrence and distribution of microplastics in the Adour Estuary, SW France. The experimental data set was complemented by numerica...
Article
Full-text available
Anomaly detection (AD) in high-volume environmental data requires one to tackle a series of challenges associated with the typical low frequency of anomalous events, the broad-range of possible anomaly types and local non-stationary environmental conditions, suggesting the need for flexible statistical methods that are able to cope with unbalanced...
Article
Full-text available
Infragravity (IG) waves are expected to contribute significantly to coastal flooding and sediment transport during hurricane overwash, yet the dynamics of these low-frequency waves during hurricane impact remain poorly documented and understood. This paper utilizes hydrodynamic measurements collected during Hurricane Harvey (2017) across a low-lyin...
Article
Full-text available
Headland rips, sometimes referred to as boundary rips, are rip currents flowing against natural or artificial obstructions extending seaward from the beach, such as headland or groynes. They can be driven either by the deflection of the longshore current against the obstacle or by alongshore variation in breaking wave height due to wave shadowing i...
Article
Full-text available
Topographical complexity of coral reefs is of primary importance for a number of hydrodynamical and ecological processes. The present study is based on a series of high‐resolution seabottom elevation measurements along the Maupiti barrier reef, French Polynesia. Several statistical metrics and spectral analysis are used to characterize the spatial...
Article
This paper describes the hydrodynamic regimes reached over barrier reefs during extreme wave events. The study is based on a combined approach relying, on one hand, on an extensive in-situ experiment over the Ouano reef-lagoon system, New Caledonia and, on the other hand, on wave-resolving numerical modeling.
Article
Full-text available
Clément, J.-B.; Sous, D.; Golay, F. and Ersoy M., 2020. Wave-driven groundwater flows in sandy beaches: A Richards equation-based model. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 1047–1051. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN0749-0208. A groundwater model is developed to s...
Article
Full-text available
Mouragues, A.; Bonneton, P.; Castelle, B.; Marieu, V.; Barrett, A.; Bonneton, N.; Detand, G.; Martins, K.; McCarroll, J.; Morichon, D.; Poate, T.; Rodriguez Padilla, I.; Scott, T., and Sous, D., 2020. Field observations of wave-induced headland rips. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research,...
Article
Full-text available
Plastic litter in nearshore waters is an environmental pollutant with increasing impact on coastal environments. At present, knowledge on basic plastic particle dynamics and the interaction with complex hydrodynamics is lacking. The present laboratory study, performed under controlled wave and wind conditions, demonstrates the dispersion of plastic...
Article
Full-text available
This paper reports on a combined experimental and numerical study dedicated to barrier reefs hydrodynamics. A network of pressure sensors and velocity profilers has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The primary aim of the study is to assess the relevance of the classical depth-averaged momentum balan...
Article
Full-text available
The present paper reports on a series of field experiments aiming to characterise the functioning of a man-engineered strongly forced salt-wedge estuary: the lower estuary of the Adour river, France. Bottom-moored velocity measurements and surface boat surveys have been performed under low river discharge conditions, for both neap and spring tides,...
Article
Full-text available
The present study aims to estimate the potential of artificial reef pass as a renewable source of energy. The overall idea is to mimic the functioning of natural reef–lagoon systems in which the cross-reef pressure gradient induced by wave breaking is able to drive an outward flow through the pass. The objective is to estimate the feasibility of a...
Article
Full-text available
This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of o...
Preprint
Full-text available
The purpose of this research work is to study the diffraction of surface gravity waves propagating through rectangular porous medium in three dimensions. The considered porous structure consists in dense arrays of surface piercing vertical cylinders. Experiments for different regular wave conditions have been carried out, especially for three wave...
Poster
Full-text available
The Adour estuary morphology combined with the competition between the tide and the river flow result in a time-dependent salt-wedge estuary. A dual approach, coupling field experiments and numerical modeling, has been carried out to better understand the physical processes that govern the Adour river hydrodynamics. A series of field campaigns was...
Article
The purpose of this research work is to study the diffraction of surface gravity waves propagating through rectangular porous medium in three dimensions. The considered porous structure consists of dense arrays of surface piercing vertical cylinders. Experiments for different regular wave conditions have been carried out, especially for three-wave...
Article
Full-text available
Wave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low-to-mild sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and t...
Poster
Full-text available
The Adour river is a partially stratified river flowing into the Basque Country coastal waters. The dynamics of estuarine waters and suspended matters, including density stratification, mixing, residence and renewal times, is controlled by the competition between the input of terrestrial waters with strongly varying discharge and suspended load and...
Presentation
River plumes play a central role in the input and transport of dissolved and particulate matters that can lead to the dispersion of pollutants into coastal waters. Understanding the dynamics of river plumes is thus essential to evaluate the potential threat to coastal-marine ecosystems and human health, in order to improve management and mitigation...
Poster
CANOPé est un programme pluridisciplinaire dédié à l’étude des récifs barrières de Posidonia oceanica mettant à contribution des scientifiques dont l’expertise couvrent les domaines de la cartographie, de la biologie, de l’écologie, de la géomorphologie, de l’océanographie physique et de la modélisation. Alors que le projet a pour but de comprendre...
Article
Full-text available
This paper reports on two three-months field experiments carried out in the Ouano lagoon, New Caledonia. This channel-type lagoon, exposed to meso-tides, south pacific swells and trade winds, has been monitored thanks to a network of currents profilers to understand the dynamics of the lagoon waters. Four typical circulation patterns have been iden...
Article
Full-text available
This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically sheared current and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic field campaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season. The overall...
Article
The purpose of this research work is to study the effect of specific surface s, the fluid–solid contact surface per volume unit, on the wave energy dissipation by porous structures consisting in dense arrays of emergent vertical cylinders. Experiments have been carried out in a 10 m long wave flume. Three cylinder diameters D are considered in orde...
Article
Sloshing tests are performed on a rectangular tank filled with bottom-mounted vertical cylinders. The cylinders, in regular staggered arrangements, are first emergent then shortened to be fully submerged. Different porosities are achieved by varying the number of cylinders. The tank undergoes forced horizontal motion at frequencies around the natur...
Article
Full-text available
This manuscript reports on a novel field experiment carried out on a microtidal beach in Camargue, France. For the first time in the field, a comprehensive description of the groundwater dynamics under sandy beach swash zone is presented. A cross-shore network of 15 buried pressure sensors is combined with terrestrial LiDAR measurements to study th...
Article
In this work, a parallel finite volume scheme on unstructured meshes is applied to fluid flow formultidimensional hyperbolic system of conservation laws. It is based on a block-based adaptive meshrefinement strategy which allows quick meshing and easy parallelisation. As a continuation and asan extension of a previous work, the useful numerical den...
Article
Full-text available
Morphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. As most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. Investigating short-term processe...
Article
Full-text available
This manuscript presents a combined experimental and numerical study of the impact of cross-reef fluxes on coral reef lagoon dynamics. The selected field site is the Ouano Lagoon (New Caledonia Island, France) in the South Western Pacific Ocean. Measurements of wave transformation above the reef and current profiles through passages and reef openin...
Article
In this work, we present a fast and parallel finite volume scheme on unstructured meshes applied to complex fluid flow. The mathematical model is based on a three-dimensional compressible low Mach two-phase flows model, combined with a linearised ‘artificial pressure’ law. This hyperbolic system of conservation laws allows an explicit scheme, impro...
Article
This communication is related to the energy dissipation by porous media. A particular attention is paid on the effects of specific surface on dissipated energy through a porous media constituted by a compact network of emerging vertical cylinders. Experiments have been performed with three porous structures with varying cylinder diameters. The poro...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
This note is related to the scaling effects of porous media consisting in emerging vertical cylinder array. Wave and current experiments were carried out in a 10m-long flume. Three cylinder diameters are considered in order to study the role of the specific surface while keeping the porosity constant. Both porous media length and water depth are se...