Anneke Smelik

Anneke Smelik
Radboud University | RU · Department of Cultural Studies

Professor
Fashion Theory: posthuman fashion, new materialism, Deleuzian perspective.

About

134
Publications
133,701
Reads
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405
Citations
Introduction
Professor Anneke Smelik is Katrien van Munster Professor of Visual Culture and Fashion Studies in the Department of Cultural Studies at the Radboud University of Nijmegen (Netherlands). After years of research on visual media such as film, television and videoclips, she has shifted her focus to fashion studies and the creative industries. In 2018-19 Anneke Smelik was a Fellow at the Netherlands Institute for Advanced Study in Amsterdam. She is co-editor of Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty.
Additional affiliations
September 2019 - present
Critical Studies of Fashion & Beauty
Position
  • Editor
Description
  • Editorship of Journal Critical Studies of Fashion & Beauty
January 1998 - present
Radboud University
Position
  • Professor (Full)
Description
  • My present research is mainly focused on fashion theory, fashion & technology, and fashion & sustainability. I teach courses on Fashion Theory and Creative Industries.
Education
September 1990 - October 1995
University of Amsterdam
Field of study
  • Film Studies

Publications

Publications (134)
Article
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Working from the case study of Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, this article proposes a new-materialist framework for fashion studies. The ‘material turn’ has gained substantial recognition in social and cultural research in the past decade but has received less attention in fashion studies. At the same time, fashion hardly ever figures in scholarsh...
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Gilles Deleuze’s philosophy is often situated within the school of French post-structuralism, but his thought does not share the same emphasis on the centrality of language. Deleuze aims to come up with new concepts so as to rethink and revitalize life and he can thus be situated as a vitalist and materialist thinker. Although Deleuze’s ideas have...
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This chapter gives an introduction to a joint research project on contemporary Dutch fashion. The creative industry of fashion in the Netherlands has increasingly been able to capitalise on a unique mix of playful individualism, organisational innovation and a creative relation to cultural heritage. Because fashion is embedded in cultural values, t...
Article
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This article is available open access: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/1362704X.2020.1850035 3D printing technologies are among the new developments in fashion design. The Dutch designer Iris van Herpen is one of the forerunners of 3D printing in fashion design. She is particularly known for her 3D printed designs of ‘fractal folds’:...
Chapter
This chapter defines posthuman fashion by inscribing it within the critical discourses of posthumanism and new materialism. Posthuman fashion blurs the categories between human and machine, humans and animals, virtual and material, and organic and artificial. The chapter explores several dimensions of posthumanism: the relation to technology; the...
Article
This is an editorial introduction to the 12.2 issue of Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty. The issue cuts across several themes: affect, the body and gender, as well as class, race, nationality and other subject positions. The articles and reviews also represent a range of places and times. Diversity and heterogeneity of themes and objects of enq...
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Fashion enchants, engrosses, caresses, itches, restrains, liberates, enfolds, reveals, protects and provokes. This article researches fashion’s ability to affect and vice versa, how humans are affected by fashion. The first part introduces the main tenets of affect theory, while the second part of the article focuses on the pragmatics of affective...
Chapter
Het mondkapje is een modeartikel geworden én tevens onderwerp van gepolariseerde polemiek. Hoe kan het dat dit minieme stukje stof zowel tot onvermoede creativiteit als verhitte debatten leidt? Waarom gaat het mondkapje vergezeld van angsten, ambivalenties en onzekerheden? In dit hoofdstuk onderzoekt Anneke Smelik de relatie tussen mode en identite...
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Deze bijdrage vormt een aanzet tot meer systematisch onderzoek naar modekritiek, dat tot nu toe een ondergeschoven kindje is geweest binnen de kunst- en cultuurkritiek. Het eerste deel verheldert dat modekritiek een synthese vormt tussen kunstkritiek die ingaat op het esthetische aspect van de mode, en cultuurkritiek die de historische en sociaal-c...
Chapter
In de laatste vijftig jaar is Artemisia Gentileschi’s schilderkunst vaak als symbool van vrouwelijk verzet opgevat. Haar werk is steeds opnieuw herontdekt door feministische kunsthistorici zoals Germaine Greer, Mary D. Garrard, of Mieke Bal. Dit is geen moderne projectie op een vroegere eeuw, want Gentileschi’s werk is goed in te bedden in het zich...
Article
Published online in Sartoria, Association de recherche en mode et histoire d’art, July 30 2021: https://sartoria.hypotheses.org/1456. In this written interview I reflect on the debate on « new materialism » in fashion studies, discussing issues of power, the notion of agency of things, the reception of Deleuze's philosophy in fashion studies, and...
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This Special Issue on Oceania fashion systems directly addresses the need for fashion studies to expand beyond a western or Eurocentric focus.
Article
The COVID-19 pandemic brings into sharp relief the performative aspect of the way we dress. Staring at one’s own face among many others during the online meetings and classes requires new make-up and dressing routines. Combining nice tops that are in view with sweatpants for the part of the body that (hopefully) no one can see, reveals that dress i...
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https://www.intellectbooks.com/the-politics-and-aesthetics-of-face-masks
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Fashion matters' proposes a new-materialist framework to look at global fashion. A new-materialist approach helps to highlight fashion's materiality and understand the hybrid mix of both local and global matters in fashion. An analysis of the material details of the-often ironic-use of cultural heritage in contemporary Dutch fashion (e.g. Viktor&Ro...
Article
The visualization of posthumanism in Spike Jonze’s modern science fiction romance Her is fundamentally paradoxical, because the film reinforces traditional humanism in the human character of Theodore while at the same time disturbing it in the posthuman character of Samantha. In an optimistic reading of Samantha, drawing on Gilles Deleuze’s philoso...
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This article reviews fashion criticism in two quality newspapers in the Netherlands in the past 25 years. Modekritiek bepaalt wat mode is of wat niet, en wat in de mode is of wat niet. Modekritiek zit in de lift, maar er is nog weinig wetenschappelijk onderzoek naar gedaan. Het eerste deel van dit artikel van Anneke Smelik samen met Rosanne de Gof...
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Article in French on the fashion designs by the Dutch designer Iris van Herpen. Published in: Noémie Balmat (ed.), .Futur : Reliques. Issue 1, Paris: Futur404, 2019: pp. 244 – 251.
Chapter
In Dutch: Chapter and educational material on the meaning of clothes and fashion, for school kids (age 8-11). See: https://www.wetenschapdeklasin.nl/boeken/boek8 and: https://www.ru.nl/wetenschapsknooppunt/
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This is a Turkish translation of my chapter 'Cinematic Fantasies of Becoming-Cyborg' from 2010 (see for download under 'chapters'). Translator: Deniz Kurtyilmaz. Published in: SineFilozofi 3 (6), 2018: 142-155. Giriş Son birkaç yıldır bazı televizyon reklamlarında insan-makine görüntüleri cezbedici biçimde öne çıkmaktadır. 2005 senesinde, bu şeki...
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Duurzame mode is langzame mode. Langzame strategieën moeten het proces van productie en consumptie zodanig vertragen dat mens en milieu gespaard blijven en de afvalberg vermindert. Duurzame mode richt zich op het creëren van ethische en langdurige relaties tussen mensen en hun omgeving. Te lezen online op Modemuze: https://www.modemuze.nl/blog/duur...
Article
Door een ontmoeting mogelijk te maken tussen mode en technologie, geeft ‘science fashion’ het menselijk lichaam opnieuw vorm, voorbij zijn eindige contouren. Zo biedt draagbare technologie een opening naar een toekomstige wereld waarin kleding is versmolten met de menselijke huid, lichaam en identiteit. Online te lezen in Modemuze: https://www.mode...
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This short encyclopedia entry gives an overview of wearable technology and puts it in the context of posthuman theory.
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This is a revised and updated version of an earlier chapter published in 2009; re-issued in 2018.
Article
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‘Gevaarlijk haar. Menselijk haar in kunst en mode’. In Jaarboek Studies in Textiel: HAAR! Menselijk haar in mode en textiel. Hilversum: Verloren, 2017: 65-73. Dit artikel toont vanuit de cultuurfilosofie waarom haar doet griezelen: omdat het zich op de grens beweegt tussen binnen en buiten, hoofd en lichaam, mens en dier, leven en dood. Als mensel...
Chapter
This chapter traces a new narrative of Dutch fashion: the Netherlands as a denim country with Amsterdam as its denim capital. With the assistance and support of trade organizations, design institutes, Amsterdam’s municipal services, and brand stories, the media have facilitated a new fashion narrative to promote nation and city branding. Its consta...
Chapter
In chapter the authors explore the use of vibrant colours in Dutch fashion designs. The chapter examines designs by the firms Oilily, Mac&Maggie and ¯CoraKemperman, which have played a considerable role in the Dutch fashion industry and are known for their dashing colours, daring patterns, florid folds, and bold cuts. The chapter focuses on the sty...
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The authors argue that Dutch designer Cora Kemperman’s unique style is the result of ‘co-creation’, that is, of the specific way in which production and consumption are organised by the brand ¯CoraKemperman. She worked first as a buyer for Mac&Maggie (1976-1994), before she started her own brand in 1995, indicated as ¯CoraKemperman. Kemperman’s wil...
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Anneke Smelik illuminates the new field of fashionable technology or ‘wearables’. Wiring complex systems of microprocessors, motors, sensors, solar panels, (O)LEDs or interactive interfaces into the fabric, textile or clothing turns them into smart garments that have a certain agency of their own. Dutch designers like Pauline van Dongen, Iris van H...
Book
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Contemporary fashion in the Netherlands shows a unique mix of playful individualism, conceptual strength, and organisational innovation. _Delft Blue to Denim Blue. Contemporary Dutch Fashion_ maps the landscape of Dutch fashion in all its rich variety and complexity. Luxuriously illustrated in colour, the book uncovers the cultural roots of Dutch f...
Chapter
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This chapter is about wearable technology in high fashion, i.e. the fashion of Hussein Chalayan. Lianne Toussaint and Anneke Smelik argue in this chapter on techno-fashion, contemporary technologies that are embedded in gadgets or garments display a specific and nonhuman kind of agency. Agency pertains to quite different ‘things’: the designer, the...
Chapter
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Memory matters. It matters because memory brings the past into the present, and opens it up to the future. But it also matters literally, because memory is mediated materially. Materiality is the stuff of memory. Meaningful objects that we love (or hate) function not only as aide-mémoire but are integral to memory. Drawing on previous scholarship o...
Chapter
An analysis of Chalayan’s mechanical dresses from the collection ‘One Hundred and Eleven’ (2006) reveals that technologies may invade, yet also instigate and innovate processes of memory through fashion. Chalayan’s time-traversing ‘robo dresses’ resurrect the ghost of fashion’s past through the use of advanced technologies and smart materials. The...
Chapter
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This chapter sketches how the development of the posthuman image in science fiction (SF) cinema over the last few decades moves from anxiety over identity to mediated memories, and from the awareness of affect to actual love relations. Anneke Smelik links these different figurations of the posthuman to specific cinematic techniques, thematic tropes...
Book
Full-text available
Memory matters. It matters because memory brings the past into the present, and opens it up to the future. But it also matters literally, because memory is mediated materially. Materiality is the stuff of memory. Meaningful objects that we love (or hate) function not only as aide-mémoire but are integral to memory. Drawing on previous scholarship o...
Article
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Using Pauline van Dongen’s ‘Wearable Solar’ project as a case study, the authors argue that materiality and embodiment should be taken into account both in the design of and the theoretical reflection on wearable technology. Bringing together a fashion designer and scholars from cultural studies, this interdisciplinary research aims at advancing th...
Chapter
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Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one's ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fas...
Chapter
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Jeans are generally regarded as an icon of American culture, while the spread of this garment across the whole world is often understood as part and parcel of global Americanization. Jeans are unquestionably an icon of globalization. Yet, in the past few years Dutch newspaper, magazine and web articles have asserted a connection between denim jeans...
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Feminist film theory criticizes classical cinema for its stereotyped representation of women. Its aim is to adequately represent female subjectivity and female desire on the silver screen. During its heyday in the 1970s and 1980s a poststructuralist perspective domineered the approach to cinema, claiming that cinema is more than just a reflection o...
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This is a short overview article on feminist theories of the male gaze in cinema.
Chapter
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What is the notion of 'mediated memory' in relation to films and other media about 9/11? Media technologies invariably shape our memories of past and present life. Rather than simply representing the past, even the recent past of an event like the attack on the Twin Towers, television, computers, cinema and other media enable and produce particular...
Book
Full-text available
Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one's ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fas...
Article
Full-text available
In the past two decades body hair has fast become a taboo for women. The empirical data of sociological and medical research reveal that the vast majority of women remove most of their body hair since the beginning of this century. Body hair is typically a marker that polices significant boundaries: between human–animal, male–female and adult–child...
Book
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Bits of Life (first released in 2008) assumes a posthuman definition of the body. It is grounded in questions about today's biocultures, which pertain neither to humanist bodily integrity nor to the anthropological assumption that human bodies are the only ones that matter. Editors Anneke Smelik and Nina Lykke aid in mapping changes and transformat...
Book
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This volume (first released in 2013) pursues a new line of research in cultural memory studies by understanding memory as a performative act in art and popular culture. The authors take their cue from the observation that art and popular culture enact memory and generate processes of memory. They do memory, and in this doing of memory new questions...
Chapter
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Nowhere is the constantly vibrating dynamic of the fold more visible and palpable than in the pleats, creases, draperies, furrows, bows and ribbons of fashion. Whilst in art history, the fold is connected to the expression of e-motion (pathos), in fashion the fold is engaged in a game of concealing and revealing the body in-motion (eros). The fluid...
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In this chapte, we explore the impact of visual technology on youth participation. Our research addresses the benefits of the use of visual technology in education and the implications for contemporary adult educators. We empirically ground our research by looking at two specific projects, which use participatory video as an intervention method wit...
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Elise Wortel and Anneke Smelik turn to the genre of costume drama in cinema. They set out to investigate the creative effects of anachronism that invent new historical sensations and new ways of thinking about history. Wortel and Smelik examine how postmodern costume films allow the audience to experience the past in the present. They explore a met...
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This volume pursues a new line of research in cultural memory studies by understanding memory as a performative act in art and popular culture. The authors take their cue from the observation that art and popular culture enact memory and generate processes of memory. They do memory, and in this doing of memory new questions about the cultural dimen...
Book
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De cyborg (cybernetisch organisme) sluit aan bij het verlangen naar de maakbare mens. Op dat verlangen spelen films, reclames, mode en videoclips gretig in. De cyborg is van een onrustbarend angstbeeld een wenselijk ideaalbeeld geworden. In Ik, cyborg onderzoekt Anneke Smelik het beeld van de cyborg in sciencefiction en andere vormen van populaire...
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Hoofdstuk 1 van Ik Cyborg
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Hoofdstuk 2 van Ik Cyborg
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Hoofdstuk 3 van Ik Cyborg
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Hoofdstuk 9 van Ik Cyborg
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Hoofdstuk 6 van Ik Cyborg
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Hoofdstuk 8 van Ik Cyborg
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Hoofdstuk 4 van Ik Cyborg
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Hoofdstuk 5 van Ik Cyborg
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Hoofdstuk 7 van Ik Cyborg
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Sinds de opkomst van de jon­gerencultuur in de jaren zestig vormt de jeugd de norm op allerlei vlakken. Vooral in de beeldcultuur wordt jeugd onlosmakelijk verbonden met schoon­heid, succes en seksualiteit. Als de populaire cultuur zo eenzijdig het ideaal­beeld van eeuwige jeugd uitdraagt, kan het oudere lichaam dan nog wel geassocieerd worden met...
Book
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This book is available open access: https://www.vandenhoeck-ruprecht-verlage.com/themen-entdecken/literatur-sprach-und-kulturwissenschaften/interdisziplinaere-geisteswissenschaft/16399/the-scientific-imaginary-in-visual-culture?c=1747 Popular media, art and science are intricately interlinked in contemporary visual culture. This book analyses the...
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Popular media, art and science are intricately interlinked in contemporary visual culture. This book analyses the scientific imaginary that is the result of the profound effects of science upon the imagination, and conversely, of the imagination in and upon science. As scientific developments in genetics, information technology and cybernetics open...
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Anneke Smelik explores one of the prevailing figurations in a culture dominated by science and technology: the man-machine or the cyborg, a cybernetic organism. Starting from popular images of the cyborg in car commercials and videoclips, she traces the figuration of the hardware, software and wetware cyborg in Sci-Fi movies in the past few decades...
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Review of Linda Williams's book _Screening Sex_. Durham, NC and London: Duke University Press, 2008 Published in: Journal of Gender Studies, 2010.
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Published in: Deus Ex Machina, 2010, jrg 34, nr 133: 18-25. Dit artikel onderzoekt de culturele motieven voor de ontwikkeling van het normatieve ideaal van het haarloze lichaam voor beide seksen. De auteur bespreekt hoe verschillende, overlappende en in elkaar grijpende vertogen en praktijken de construc­tie van het haarloze lichaam ondersteunen. H...
Article
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What is the notion of 'mediated memory' in relation to films and other media about 9/11? Media technologies invariably shape our memories of past and present life. Rather than simply representing the past, even the recent past of an event like the attack on the Twin Towers, television, computers, cinema and other media enable and produce particular...
Chapter
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This chapter traces the development of feminist film theory, through two women ‘warriors’: Lara Croft from the Tomb Raider films and Beatrix Kiddo from the Kill Bill films. Although the films were made in the same period, and belong more or less to the same action genre, they nevertheless represent two quite different tendencies in contemporary vis...
Book
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_Technologies of Memory in the Arts_ covers the interdisciplinary field of Cultural Studies of Memory and Trauma from an international spectrum. It focuses on art and artistic practices as technologies of memory: paintings, souvenirs, science fiction films, memorials, novels, documentaries, comic strips, and toys. Exploring the varied ways in which...
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The article takes two case studies of intermedial computer art, a monumental piece of interactive sound architecture, Son-O-House (2004), and an animated “open movie”, Elephants Dream (2006) as the starting point for an analysis of intermediality. The authors identify two directions in intermedial works of art: “introverted” and “extraverted”. Taki...
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‘Remember me,’ the ghost famously says to Hamlet in Shakespeare’s tragedy, and like so many contemporary Hamlets, we obey the spectral past’s call to remembrance. The seemingly simple imperative to remember, however, obscures the fact that remembering can be a tricky business. Sometimes we remember in order to honour the past, even as we remember s...
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To say that memory has a privileged place in contemporary cinema requires little demonstration; it is as ubiquitous as it is banal. In contemporary science fiction films, however, memory — both as a theme and as a structural element — has become the site of a full-scale interrogation and re-evaluation of traditional accounts of human subjectivity....
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Images of tunnels are abundant in both science fiction cinema and medical imagery. In science fiction cinema, the tunnel signifies something virtual and abstract: cyberspace or virtual reality. In medical imagery, on the contrary, it signifies something actual and concrete: the interior of a body. Yet both sets of images are equally virtual and abs...
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Since World War II, the biological and technological have been fusing and merging in new ways, resulting in the loss of a clear distinction between the two. This entanglement of biology with technology isn't new, but the pervasiveness of that integration is staggering, as is the speed at which the two have been merging in recent decades. As this pr...
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(Turkish translation of _And the Mirror Cracked_ from 1998) Anneke Smelik in yazdığı bu kitap, çağdaş feminist sinemanın siyaseti ve beğenilerini ele alan bir çalışmadır. Feminist yönetmenlerin son derece üretken yollarla yarattıkları alternatif film biçimlerini takip eden yazar, feminist filmlerin temelini oluşturan sinemasal sorunlar(yaratıcı yön...
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Review of Barbara Creed's book, _Phallic Panic. Film, Horror and the Primal Uncanny_. Melbourne: Melbourne University Press, 2005. Published online in Journal Senses of Cinema, nr 43, 2007: http://sensesofcinema.com/2007/book-reviews/phallic-panic/
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Ces lignes se proposent d'examiner Jes capacités du CD­Rom a représenter la mémoire du traumatisme engendré par la violence sexuelle. Mon propos est de montrer que le medium numérique du CD-Rom se prête particulièrement a une représentation deconstructive de l'activité créatrice qui fait que le souvenir d’un évènement « immémorial» du passé ne peut...
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This chapter is a detailed description of feminist film theory. Please note it is a re-edited version from 1998.
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In de laatste decennia zijn modeshows veranderd in intermediale spektakels, die het midden houden tussen theater, film, protest, voorstelling en happening. De ontwerper is kunstenaar geworden en de show een performance. In de jaren negentig wordt de modeshow als specifiek genre zelfs populair. De catwalk is het toneel voor een pure performance. De...
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Review of Vivian Sobchack, _Carnal Thoughts: Embodiment and Moving Image Culture_. Berkeley, University of California Press, 2004 (328 pp). Published in: Journal of Gender Studies vol. 15 (3) 2006: 304-5.
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Dit artikel geeft een theoretisch kader om mode te begrijpen als onderdeel van de hedendaage beeldcultuur. Mode kan niet zonder de media. Fotografie, en later film en televisie, en nu internet, medialiseren de mode. Modemagazines, glossies, dames­bladen, blogs: ze bestaan niet zonder de mode, maar de mode bestaat ook niet zonder deze tijdschriften....
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A. Smelik, ‘Tussen droom en divan. Het ‘blikkenspel’ in film’. In: S. Houppermans, M. de Kesel en P. Verstraten (red.) Scènes uit een huwelijk. Psychoanalyse en film. Amsterdam: Dutch University Press, 2006: 21-35. Dit artikel geeft een uitleg van psychoanalyse als theoretisch kader om film te begrijpen.
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A. Smelik, ‘Op het eerste gezicht. De glijdende grens tussen echt en onecht’. In: Jong Holland. Beeldende kunst en visuele cultuur. Jrg 22, nr 2, 2006: 24-29. Dit artikel gaat over de postmoderne beeldcultuur.
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Een artikel over de 'visual turn' in de cultuurwetenschap.
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A. Attema en A. Smelik, ‘Knuffelturk verliefd op kakker; of hockeymeisje verliefd op alibi-ali. Voorbij stereotypen in het multiculturele drama Najib & Julia’ Brochure Bureau Beeldvorming en Diversiteit, Hilversum: Publieke Omroep, 2005. De discussie over de multiculturele samenleving roept vragen op over de rol van de media. Hoe gaan programmama...

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Projects (3)
Project
The research project SLOW emphasizes a humanities perspective in debates on sustainable fashion, by developing a new-materialist theoretical framework. A new-materialist approach will enable a redefinition of materiality and of identity, and the relation between those two, by focusing on both the human and non-human aspects of (un)sustainable fashion. The project will point to new directions for sustainable fashion by giving insight into a) the effects of the cult of speed and b) the possibilities of advanced technologies.