Anne Perwuelz

Anne Perwuelz
École Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles | ENSAIT · Le GEMTEX

PhD

About

150
Publications
40,704
Reads
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2,322
Citations
Additional affiliations
September 1991 - present
Laboratoire Génie et Matériaux Textiles
Laboratoire Génie et Matériaux Textiles
Position
  • Professor (Full)
September 1991 - present
École Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles
Position
  • Professor (Full)
September 1991 - present
Education
September 1977 - June 1980

Publications

Publications (150)
Conference Paper
Full-text available
The Fashion-related value chain is complex and globally spread. It is well known that the textile sector generates tremendous environmental impacts that are fairly well distributed throughout the life cycle of textile articles. Considering the consumer's influence on design or end-of-life choices is limited, he/she remains a fundamental actor in th...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
The Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles (ENSAIT) is one of the few schools specialising in materials for the textile industry. Each year it graduates around 110 engineers whose role is to meet the challenges of the sector while respecting the values of the companies and environmental standards. The ENSAIT engineer's course ta...
Article
Full-text available
Design for longevity is known as an eco-design opportunity and could help to reduce the environmental footprint of energy-free items. However, extending the lifespan of products is not always desirable and the focus should be on achieving an optimal lifespan. Operationally, recommendations for design for longevity usually refer to durability, repai...
Article
The textile coloration sector normally employs the color stripping process for correcting the various faults obtained during the wet processing operations like the printing and dyeing. However, the traditional method for the color stripping carries with it the possibility of grave ecological pollution. The purpose of this work is to investigate the...
Poster
The material and energy consumptions involved in the realization of placed patterns on jersey t-shirt bases were measured and calculated for three distinct decorative processes: machine embroidery, screen printing and digital printing. The aim of the study was to allow an environmental burdens decrease of these processes while providing clear data...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Given the diversity of textile products, their uses and also the reasons related to their end-of-life, it appears that estimating the effective lifespan of clothing items is unrealistic. To estimate a lifespan equivalent, a reasonable solution is to rely on standards commonly performed by the apparel industry. However, according to the internationa...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Increasing clothing longevity is recognized as a promising lever to help in reducing apparelsector's environmental impacts. However, longevity evaluation of textile products remains complex and so tracking of longevity factors is needed. Current researches mainly focused on garment design to increase lifespan. Since, no researches involving fabric...
Article
Full-text available
Color stripping is one of the most convenient ways to rectify the various shade faults occurred during printing or dyeing process of textiles. But, the conventional chemical assisted process poses serious risk of the environmental pollution. Secondly, the chemical recycling of the cellulosic fibers may be disrupted due to the presence of the impuri...
Article
Full-text available
Research approaches on the use of ecotechnologies like ozone assisted processes for the decolorization of textiles are being explored as against the conventional alkaline reductive process for the color stripping of the cotton textiles. The evaluation of these ecotechnologies must be performed to assess the environmental impacts. Partial “gate to g...
Article
Full-text available
Color stripping is one of the most convenient ways to rectify the various shade faults occurred during printing or dyeing process of textiles. But, the conventional chemical assisted process poses serious risk of the environmental pollution. Secondly, the chemical recycling of the cellulosic fibers may be disrupted due to the presence of the impuri...
Article
The Coronavirus Disease-2019 (COVID-19) pandemic caused by the virus SARS-CoV-2 is spreading very quickly around the world. In less than 7 months since it became known to the international community, the virus has infected 18 million in more than 180 countries and killing more than 700,000 people. Person-to-person transmission through infected resp...
Article
Full-text available
The decolorization of a cotton fabric dyed with a reactive dye (C.I. Reactive Black 5) was studied using an optimized ozone-assisted process at pilot scale. Box–Behnken design was used to evaluate the effects of three parameters on the decolorization of the dyed textile, namely, pH of the treatment (3–7), ozone concentration (5–85 g/m3 of ozone), a...
Conference Paper
Ozone treatment has been used for years in water treatments. Nowadays, researches proved ozone efficiency in many other applications such ozone disinfection treatments, bleaching and decolorization in textile industry. Our study has been focused on ozone ability to substitute conventional bleaching treatments of linen fabrics. Results after dyeing...
Conference Paper
Linen is a local fiber mostly produced in France. It is well known by its important properties such as biodegradability, mechanical properties and the facility of cultivation. It doesn’t need pesticides or any chemical additives. It is often used for clothing, furniture and as a reinforcement in composite materials. Many chemical treatments should...
Conference Paper
The discoloration of the Reactive Black 5 azo dyed cotton textile was studied by ozone assisted process and the conventional reductive treatment. The ozonation process comprised of different parameters like pH, ozone concentration (g/m3) and the treatment time. The results obtained showed that the discoloration with ozone is better than the convent...
Article
Full-text available
In the clothing industry, the understanding of the quality is a major issue to well meet the customer needs. The dilemma that faces manufacturers is to find the balance between good quality and “overquality,” what the quality criteria are, and how to target requirements specifications. The aim of this study was to propose a multi-attribute ranking...
Chapter
Bio-based dyes for textile dyeing have been widely studied on account of their eco-friendly approach. However, the use of bio-sources should not be the only parameter considered for a more environmentally sound dyeing concept. By utilizing the life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology the environmental impacts of the dyeing process can be analyzed, s...
Article
Full-text available
The aim of this study is to investigate the influence of hybrid textile woven fabric structure on the electrical resistivity. Weave structure was varied by varying the weave pattern and the conductive yarn density in the woven fabrics. Electrical surface and volume resistivity were measured and compared to the fabric structural properties. Results...
Article
Full-text available
In the present work the natural madder dye (Rubia tinctorum L.) was applied to the simultaneous dyeing and functionalization of polyester (PET) fabric. In the first part of the study the color performance and the durability were revealed for exhaustion dyed fabric. The dyed fabric was then characterized with respect to ultraviolet (UV) protection a...
Article
Flame retardants (FRs) for textile products has been studied widely on the account of their production, but in order to consider a FR textile product eco-friendly, its end-of-life phase seems neglected and needs great attention. The purpose of this study was to expand and improve the end-of-life phase of FR textile products, by offering an eco-path...
Article
Full-text available
This paper intends to give an overview of the design solutions in fashion for environmentally conscious consumers, presenting green and ethical practices in contemporary clothing design. The results introduce the concept of slow fashion and discuss available fashion design solutions, giving most prominent examples of sustainable products and brands...
Article
Full-text available
It is well established that current flame retardant (FR) products at disposal generate various ecological hazards. Irrespective of their environmental impacts, the FR market is growing and is estimated to reach 2.8 million tons globally in 2018. In the textile domain, FRs are incorporated into baby clothing, pushchairs, car seats, etc. When dispose...
Article
The organophosphorus compound N-methylol dimethyl phosphonopropionamide (MDPA) is extensively used for durable flame retardant (FR) treatments for cotton fabrics. For optimum finishing treatment, MDPA is used with the Trimethylol melamine (TMM) or dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) for cotton fabric treatments. The amino resins TMM known to...
Article
The (Formula presented.)-methylol dimethyl phosphono propionamide (MDPA) flame retardant compounds are predominantly used for cotton fabric treatments with trimethylol melamine (TMM) to obtain better crosslinking and enhanced flame retardant properties. Nevertheless, such treatments are associated with a toxic issue of cancer-causing formaldehyde r...
Article
Bio-based dyes for textile dyeing have been widely studied on account of their environmentally friendly approach but in order to be considered as an eco-friendly dyeing concept, additional parameters need to be considered. The purpose of this study was to improve a textile (polyester) dyeing process with madder dye (Rubia tinctorum L.), from an eco...
Article
Coloration and surface modification of woven polyester (PET) fabric with bio-based materials and plasma technology have been researched for the development of "greener" textile wet processing. Natural coloring species from the root of madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) were used for coloration, both in a dye and pigment form, and the coloration of PET was...
Article
Full-text available
We want to conclude on the interest of the “crimping” process used to produce the glass wool and to make a comparison for anisotropic factor obtained from structural property (air permeability) as well as thermal property (thermal conductivity and diffusivity). The main structural (densities, porosity, specific surface, air permeability) and the th...
Article
In order to improve the environmental sustainability of textile dyeing processes, dyeing of polyester fabric with bio-based dye from the roots of madder plant (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been explored and the environmental impacts assessed. The influence of the main dyeing conditions (dyebath pH, time and temperature) on the dyeing performance was stu...
Article
N-methylol dimethyl phosphonopropionamide (MDPA) is one of the most effective organophosphorus flame retardants for cellulosic fabrics, used in combination with Trimethylol melamine (TMM) to obtain durable and improved flame retardant properties. While their use is responsible for severe health problems, there is a need today to study methods to el...
Article
In depth filtration, a challenge is to obtain the highest dust holding capacity (DHC) reaching a critical pressure drop in order to improve the filter medium lifespan. Such property can be driven by the design of the fibrous structure. Indeed, various structural parameters and properties can influence the behavior of the fibrous filter medium and t...
Poster
A LCA study on coloration of polyester fabric with natural dye is demonstrated. Exhaustion dyeing is compared to padding system, with respect to environmental sustainability.
Article
Full-text available
The conditions to make nanorods functionalized fabric superhydrophobic have been optimized to obtain three kinds of self-cleaning characteristics such as physical, chemical, and biological. Physical self-cleaning is the lotus effect which is characterized by measuring both water contact and sliding angles. Chemical self-cleaning is the degradation...
Article
The large scale production of bacterial surfactin-an anionic lipopeptide is restricted by its high cost of production. Surface sorption of surfactin causes membrane fouling, decreasing air permeation, or filtration efficiency of membranes used in bioreactors. The aim of this study was to elucidate surface properties leading to reduction or even the...
Article
Artificial neural networks (ANNs) are used to model the relationship between plasma processing parameters and woven fabric surface wetting properties. In this model, fourteen features characterizing woven structures and two plasma parameters are taken as input variables and the water contact angle cosine and capillarity height as output variables....
Conference Paper
In depth filtration, a challenge is to obtain the highest dust holding capacity (DHC) reaching a critical pressure drop increase in order to improve the filter medium lifespan. Such performance can be driven by the design of the fibrous structure. Indeed, various structural parameters and properties can influence the behaviour of the fibrous filter...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Cradle-to-grave Life Cycle Assessment is used to estimate the potential environmental impacts, from the manufacturing to disposal of any product, process or activity. One of the main difficulties concerned with Life Cycle Inventory (LCI) is the lack of LCI data from developing or emerging countries. Production phase of textile is delocalized to the...
Article
Full-text available
Polyester fabric was functionalized with ZnO nanorods grown by hydrothermal method. The ZnO seeds were deposited on fabric which provided the sites for growth of nanorods. The functionalized fabric showed self-cleaning by degrading color stains and solution discoloration under the effect of ultraviolet (UV) light which was studied using two azo and...
Article
Full-text available
ZnO nanorods were grown on polyester fabric by hydrothermal process. The seeding of fabric to grow ZnO nanorods was necessary because they did not grow without seeding. An air plasma treatment was carried out on polyester fabric to generate polar groups which could attach ZnO seeds. ZnO nanorods were grown on these seeds. The generation of polar gr...
Article
Three indirect techniques—tensile, compression, and air permeability measurements—have been used to investigate the fiber network organization inside a highly porous nonwoven. They are standard material property measurements that require relatively simple equipment and are hence an interesting alternative to more costly direct analysis methods such...
Article
In this paper, a neural network approach is used to understand the effects of fabric features and plasma processing parameters on fabric surface wetting properties. In this approach, fourteen features characterizing woven structures and two plasma parameters are taken as input variables, and the water contact angle cosine and the capillarity height...
Article
The effect of plasma treatment of polyester (PET) fabric with respect to nisin adsorption and antibacterial activity was studied. Both cleaned untreated PET fabric and plasma‐treated PET fabric were separately dipped in aqueous nisaplin solution with 0.5 and 1% of nisin, for 24 h under stirring, and then dried. With 1% of nisin, high and immediate...
Article
Research works on ecotechnologies (plasma treatments) or biotechnologies (enzymatic treatments) are being developed to substitute the alkaline soda process used to improve hydrophilicity of polyester fibres. Environmental impact assessment is necessary to validate these new strategies. Partial "gate to gate" LCA was used to compare three hydrophili...
Article
Development of water-soluble dyes for the dyeing of different textile fabrics is essential for the textile industry due to ecological and economical reasons. In this study, a series of new azoic dyes were prepared by diazotization reaction between the phenyl boronic acid and different aniline derivatives, and their dyeing capacity in aqueous soluti...
Article
Full-text available
Bioactive antibacterial PET (polyethylene terephthalate) woven fabrics were produced by fixing a thin alginate coating with entrapped nisin at the PET fiber surface. These textiles may find applications in the field of hygiene or food packaging. In the first part of the study, thin solid alginate films (without nisin) capable of forming hydrogels i...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Résumé De nombreux travaux ont permis de développer des textiles auto-nettoyants en surface, sur des principes physique et/ou chimique. L'auto-nettoyant physique se rapporte au nettoyage des feuilles de lotus par l'eau de pluie. L' hydrophobicité de ces substrats naturels permet d'éliminer, par glissement des gouttes d'eau en surface, toutes les pa...
Article
Purpose This paper aims at assessing the appropriateness at the system level of different Life Cycle Inventory (LCI) data sets (including default models) selected by the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) practitioner. This means that the uncertainty measurements are applied on some specific main parameters of the LCI data set instead of measured input va...
Article
The potential use of vanillin for the chemical substitution of toxic carriers used in low temperature dyeing of polyester fabrics, was assessed. Both para and ortho-vanillin were used to compare the dyeing of a woven polyester fabric with two different blue disperse dyes: a high molecular weight anthraqui-none dye D-79 and a low molecular weight az...
Article
Full-text available
In this paper, Artificial Neural Networks (ANNs) are used to model the effect of atmospheric air-plasma treatment on fabric surfaces with various structures. In order to reduce the complexity of the models and increase the knowledge and comprehension of the underlying process, a fuzzy sensitivity variation criterion is used to select the most relev...
Article
Development of water-soluble dyes for the dyeing of different textile fabrics is essential for the textile industry due to ecological and economical reasons. In this study, a series of new azoic dyes were prepared by diazotization reaction between the phenyl boronic acid and different aniline derivatives, and their dyeing capacity in aqueous soluti...
Article
Full-text available
Capillary rise is an important cause of deterioration for plaster in building. This phenomenon has been studied by the tensiometric experimental technique. Structural and hydric characteristics of plaster have been determined. Decane, a perfectly impregnate fluid, has been used to calculate the porous constant characteristic called and other struct...
Chapter
Porous media contain an interconnected three dimensional network of capillary channels of non uniform sizes and shapes referred to as pores. The objective of this paper is to compare two methods for studying the infiltration flow inside a fibrous media in order to compare different pore radii that can be determined by capillarity and permeability....
Article
The short life span of textiles is a major sustainability issue in the current industrial system. However, the manufacturing of a more durable textile product requires the introduction of additional processes and/or the use of different materials and processes. The aim of this study was to analyse the respective influences of manufacturing and life...
Article
Full-text available
In this work, different woven fabrics with varying raw materials, fiber types and weave constructions were used for studying plasma treatment under different atmospheric conditions. Surface modification was characterized using wetting and capillarity surface analysis methods. Moreover, a fuzzy sensitivity variation criterion was used to select the...
Article
In air filtration, nonwoven materials are known to be pertinent structures for fine filtration and moderate pressure drop. In order to develop a filter that combines good permeability and high efficiency, it is important to identify the relevant structural parameters of the nonwoven. The main criteria studied in this paper are fiber fineness, solid...
Article
AbstractA cationic functionalization was carried out on poly(ethylene terephtalate) (PET) nonwovens by the method of padding with a solution of polymer (P 1 and P x ). An atmospheric pressure plasma treatment was prior used to improve the hydrophilic property of the nonwoven surface before the functionalization with cationic agents. The zeta potent...
Article
Dyeing of polyester fabric with curcumin was studied at 90 and 130 °C without and with a prior surface activation of polyester fabric using two different ecotechnologies: air atmospheric plasma treatment and ultraviolet excimer lamp at 172 nm. Without surface activation, dyeing with curcumin followed classical disperse dye behaviour, with higher dy...
Article
Full-text available
This article reports an experimental study of the permeability of fibrous porous media based on air flow. Two glass wools have been analyzed in three different flow directions to evaluate their anisotropic structure. The usual flow theories such as Darcy’s law, valid for granular materials, have been shown to apply also to these fibrous media which...
Article
Full-text available
The aim of this paper is to present the results of a study showing the potential use of nonwoven textile structures as reinforcement in composite applications. Lightweight 3D porous composite materials have been developed from sandwich nonwovens obtained by combining several nonwoven monolayers manufactured with needlepunching and/or hydroentanglem...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is very dependent on the quality, relevance and reliability of the Life Cycle Inventory (LCI) data sets selected by the LCA-practitioner. When modeling a system, the representativeness of the LCI data set is complemented by the appropriateness of the data set in the context of the specific system. The appropriateness cha...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Life Cycle Inventory analysis (LCI) is defined as the environmental inventory of a process or system. LCI development requires method and precision. Different methods are available for LCI documentation, and they have significantly different precision and quality levels. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is very dependent on the quality, relevance and re...
Article
In this study we categorised the surface properties of different knitted fabrics by their electro-kinetic behaviour and liquid up-take phenomena of the knitted textiles in order to understand the interaction of the surface properties of the textiles with cationic softener deposition. The electro-kinetic and liquid uptake properties of textiles were...
Article
The surface and adhesion properties of different molecular weight poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) (400, 1500, and 3000 g/mol) on untreated and air-atmospheric plasma-treated PET woven fabrics were studied, with the aim of developing durable hydrophilic PET fibrous structures. PEG application was carried out by padding of the PET fabric in aqueous solut...