Alec Torres-Freyermuth

Alec Torres-Freyermuth
Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México | UNAM · Institute of Engineering

PhD Univ. of Cantabria, 2007

About

94
Publications
25,152
Reads
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1,152
Citations
Introduction
I obtained my B.Sc. in Oceanography from the UABC. I was awarded by a scholarship of the CONACYT Mexico to obtain my M.Sc. in Ocean Engineering at FIT, and my Ph.D. degree in Coastal Engineering from the UC. I was a postdoctoral research assistant at the University of Florida and postdoctoral research associate at the University of Delware. Currently, I am a Researcher at UNAM where I have focused my research on the study of nearshore wave transformation.
Additional affiliations
September 2009 - present
Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México
Position
  • Professor (Associate)
July 2008 - July 2009
University of Delaware
Position
  • PostDoc Position
January 2008 - June 2008
University of Florida
Position
  • PostDoc Position
Education
October 2004 - December 2007
Universidad de Cantabria
Field of study
  • Coastal Engineering
August 2002 - July 2004
Florida Institute of Technology
Field of study
  • Ocean Engineering
January 1998 - June 2002
Autonomous University of Baja California
Field of study
  • Physical Oceanography

Publications

Publications (94)
Article
Full-text available
We investigate wave attenuation over porous seabeds by means of a phase- and depth- resolving numerical model that solves the Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations. The numerical model is calibrated with laboratory data from Corvaro et al. (2010). The numerical model predicts the wave attenuation and the velocity field...
Article
Understanding the boundary layer flow structure at the tip of a swash flow is important for improving predictions of wave run-up, coastal flooding and sediment transport processes on beaches, but this is difficult to investigate experimentally. Recently, there has been debate regarding the mechanics of boundary layer growth during the uprush flow....
Article
The wave time series that forces phase-resolving models is a source of model uncertainty that can propagate into wave runup predictions when the wave phase information is unknown. The effect of beach morphology on the propagation of this intrinsic uncertainty related to wave randomness (Ui) is largely unexplored. Here, we quantify the importance of...
Article
This study investigates the mechanisms of dune formation and growth on a micro-tidal beach. The study area, located on a barrier island on the northern Yucatan peninsula, is characterized by persistent sea breeze conditions and a wide and shallow continental shelf. Beach topography data was collected over 5 years, on a prograding beach (0.5–7 m y⁻¹...
Article
The degradation of coastal ecosystems in recent years, combined with more intense storms and greater sea levels associated with climate change, are likely to increase vulnerability to coastal flooding along reef-lined coasts. Therefore, there is a need to accurately predict extreme water levels to identify areas with high vulnerability and implemen...
Article
Water wave mechanics are an important topic for scientist and practitioners of civil engineering due to the key role in coastal structure design and the understanding of beach erosion and coastal flooding. Different water wave theories have been proposed over the past two centuries to describe wave transformation, being the so-called linear water w...
Preprint
Barrier islands in tropical regions are prone to coastal flooding and erosion during hurricane events. The Yucatan coast, characterized by karstic geology and the presence of barrier islands, was impacted by Hurricanes Gamma and Delta in October 2020. Inner shelf, coastal, and inland observations were acquired simultaneously near a coastal communit...
Article
Full-text available
We investigate the role of morphodynamic changes in the flooding of a micro-tidal dissipative beach for both current and sea level rise scenarios. By considering beach morphodynamics and flood processes associated with highly energetic waves, the study allows one to evaluate threats to coastal zones. Coupling of SWAN and XBeach models is employed t...
Article
An experimental study is presented consisting of swash zone hydrodynamics, sediment transport flux estimates, and bed changes under a single dam-break-driven swash event over a steep (1:7), movable sand bed. The study provides resolved measurements of instantaneous water depths, cross-shore flow velocities, sheet flow and suspended sediment concent...
Preprint
Full-text available
The main object of the present work was to study the role of morphodynamic changes in the flooding of a dissipative beach with microtidal regime, considering the simultaneous and individual effects of erosion and flooding in scenarios of long-term mean sea level rise. For this analysis, we selected a sector of the Colombian Caribbean coast with gre...
Article
Development of port infrastructure for small-scale fisheries started in the late 1960s and increased in the 1980s along the northern Yucatan Peninsula. These ports mainly consist of a pair of jetties that significantly interrupt littoral transport. Hence, they are responsible for coastal erosion in this region, which has been exacerbated by urbaniz...
Article
Full-text available
Las ondas enfocadas, fenómeno que ocurre en el océano, es responsable del fallo de estructuras localizadas costa afuera. Existen pocos trabajos enfocados a su estudio en zonas cercanas a la costa. En el presente trabajo se estudió la estabilidad y funcionalidad de un dique vertical con banqueta baja en presencia de ondas enfocadas. Para ello, se re...
Article
Full-text available
The northern Yucatan peninsula is prone to coastal flooding and erosion owing to its low-land elevation and high exposure to storms. Therefore, it is important to assess the capability of the beach-dune system to resist, recover, and adapt from storms in the context of coastal development and climate change. This work aims to investigate the role o...
Article
Full-text available
Phase-resolving numerical models are frequently used tools to investigate short and long wave transformation, nonlinear wave interactions, and wave runup. Moreover, nearshore morphodynamics can be explored with the recent advancement of the models and computational resources. Sea surface elevation time series that force phase-resolving models at th...
Article
Full-text available
Sandy beaches are typically in equilibrium with the wave climate, and changes occur when the system is perturbed. However, changes to nearshore morphology can occur when coastal structures are built and the system adjusts to a new equilibrium. An example of this is the construction of a shore-perpendicular groin that is designed to trap sediment ....
Article
Full-text available
Foredunes provide habitat and natural protection in coastal areas. The dune formation and development are controlled by aeolian, marine, and ecological processes (Hesp, 2002; Houser, 2009). The dune height is a key parameter for determining storm impact on barrier islands (Sallenger, 2000) and for calculating the Coastal Resilience Index (Dong et a...
Article
Full-text available
A numerical modelling framework for the study of tsunami-structure interaction is presented. In this work, a ReynoldsAveraged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equation nonlinear wave transformation numerical model is coupled to a structural model to investigate wave-structure stability and functionality. Different tsunami breaking types interacting with an exi...
Article
The breeze phenomenon is of great importance in coasts around the world owing to both its impact on local atmospheric dynamics and its influence on coastal processes. The northwest of the Yucatan Peninsula (YP) is characterized by the presence of intense sea breezes and Cold Surge (CS) events (locally known as Nortes). Field observations suggest th...
Article
Cross-shore and alongshore velocities were measured over five high tide cycles in the swash and inner surf zones of a dissipative beach (significant wave height between 0.5 and 1.65 m; water levels between 0 and 0.87 m) using acoustic and electromagnetic current meters. Measurements are used to determine the importance of alongshore motions relativ...
Article
Full-text available
Beach erosion, ubiquitous of sandy coasts around the world, can be exacerbated or mitigated with the use of hard engineering solutions including groins. The use of groins has been discouraged in many countries despite its capability to reduce sand losses. This study aims to design a 15 m permeable groin that allows sediment bypassing. Field experim...
Article
Full-text available
We investigate the storm impact associated with historical events in the northern Yucatan Peninsula. The study area is prone to coastal flooding due to both its geographical location and low-lying areas. Extreme events associated with tropical cyclones and Central American cold surge (CACS; locally known as Nortes) are ubiquitous in this region, an...
Article
The present study investigates the seasonal and interannual morphodynamics on a micro-tidal sea-breeze dominated tropical beach located in the northern Yucatan peninsula (México). The coastal dynamics in the study area are controlled by both local (sea-breeze) and synoptic (Central American Cold Surge; CACS) scale atmospheric events. However, the n...
Article
Parameterisation of wave runup is of paramount importance for an assessment of coastal hazards. Parametric models employ wave (e.g. $H_s$ and $L_p$) and beach (i.e., $\beta$) parameters to estimate extreme runup (e.g., $R_{2\%}$). Thus, recent studies have been devoted to improving such parameterisations by including additional information regardin...
Article
Full-text available
Wave and wind forces from tropical cyclones are one of the main design parameters of coastal and offshore infrastructure in tropical areas. The estimation of ocean waves parameters in the design of structures in tropical areas is difficult due to the complexity of wind fields associated with tropical cyclones. The use of numerical wave models, forc...
Article
Full-text available
Low-crested detached breakwaters (LCDBs) have been widely employed as a mitigation measure against beach erosion. However, only a few studies have assessed their performance in sea-breeze-dominated environments. This work investigates the beach morphodynamics behind LCDBs deployed on a micro-tidal sea-breeze-dominated beach. The study area, located...
Article
Full-text available
The work presents the results of a field and numerical study aimed to investigate the resistance and resilience, associated to an artificial shoreline perturbation, on a sandy beach. A temporary groin was deployed on a micro-tidal sea-breeze dominated beach to induce a shoreline perturbation. Wave conditions during the field experiment were highly...
Article
The knowledge of seasonal beach variability is fundamental to evaluate the beach resistance and resilience to either natural or anthropogenic perturbations. Therefore, beach monitoring programs are required to understand seasonal and long-term beach changes (e.g., Harley et al., 2010). Despite their importance, beach monitoring programs are scarce...
Article
Full-text available
Sandy beaches provide habitat and natural protection to coastal areas against extreme events. Beach erosion is ubiquitous of coastlines around the world and is very important given the implications in the loss of land and infrastructure in coastal areas. This problem is particularly relevant in low-lying coasts, with shallow and extended continenta...
Article
Full-text available
The understanding of the beach capability to resist and recover from a disturbance is of paramount importance in coastal engineering. However, few efforts have been devoted to quantifying beach resilience. The present work aims to investigate the shoreline resistance and resilience, associated to a transient disturbance, on a sandy beach. A tempora...
Article
Full-text available
La vida útil de las estructuras costeras está en función de las fuerzas ejercidas por la acción combinada del oleaje y el nivel medio del mar. Sin embargo, el estudio de la interacción oleaje-estructura requiere conocer el papel de la rotura, el cual es en un fenómeno complejo que no se puede estudiar de forma analítica. Por tanto, en el presente t...
Article
Full-text available
Coastal flooding in the northern Yucatán Peninsula is mainly associated with storm surge events triggered by high-pressure cold front systems. This study evaluates the hydrodynamic processes of the Chelem lagoon, Mexico and the flooding threat from cold fronts for the neighbouring town of Progreso. A 30-year water-level hindcast (excluding wave set...
Article
Full-text available
Coastal flooding in the northern Yucatán Peninsula is mainly associated with storm surge events triggered by high-pressure cold front systems. This study evaluates the hydrodynamic processes of the Chelem lagoon, Mexico and the flooding threat from cold fronts for the neighbouring town of Progreso. A 30-year water-level hindcast (excluding wave set...
Article
Full-text available
Reefs and sand dunes are critical morphological features providing natural coastal protection. Reefs dissipate around 90 % of the incident wave energy through wave breaking, whereas sand dunes provide the final natural barrier against coastal flooding. The storm impact on coastal areas with these features depends on the relative elevation of the ex...
Article
Full-text available
A field experiment was conducted on the northern Yucatan coast from April 1 to April 12, 2014 to investigate the role of intese wind events on coastal circulation from the inner shelf to the swash zone. The study area is characterized by a micro-tidal environment, low-energy wave conditions, and a wide and shallow continental shelf. Furthermore, ea...
Article
Full-text available
Reefs and sand dunes are critical morphological features providing natural coastal protection. Reefs dissipate around 90 % of the incident wave energy through wave breaking, whereas sand dunes provide the final natural barrier against coastal flooding. The storm impact on coastal areas with these features depends on the relative elevation of the ex...
Article
Full-text available
To generate projections of wave climate associated to tropical cyclones is a challenge due to their short historical record of events, their low occurrence, and the poor wind field resolution in General Circulation Models. Hence, synthetic tropical cyclones provide an alternative to overcome such limitations, improving robust statistics under both...
Poster
Full-text available
Tropical cyclones generate extreme waves that represent a risk to infrastructure and maritime activities. The projection of the tropical cyclones derived wave climate are challenged by the short historical record of tropical cyclones, their low occurrence, and the poor wind field resolution in General Circulation Models. In this study we use synthe...
Poster
Full-text available
Beach resilience plays an important role on reducing coastal risk associated to either natural or human induced perturbations affecting the coast. Field experiments were conducted in order to investigate beach resilience in Sisal, Yucatán. Both impermeable and permeable 14-m groins were designed to asses the impact of coastal structures on the beac...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
The present study employs a validated 2D numerical model, solving the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations with a VOF-tracking scheme and a κ-ε turbulence closure, to investigate different scenarios of swash-swash interactions. A moving gate is implemented in the numerical model in order to simulate a double-dam break problem. Numerical experi...
Article
Full-text available
We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at a location on a barrier island in Yucatán (Mexico). Wave information from a 30-year wave hindcast is validated with in situ measurements at 8 m water depth. The maximum dissimilarity algorithm is employed for the selection of 600 representative cases, encompassi...
Article
Boundary layer dynamics are investigated using a 2D numerical model that solves the Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations, with a VOF-tracking scheme and a $k$ - $\epsilon$ turbulence closure. The model is validated with highly resolved data of dam break driven swash flows over gravel impermeable and permeable beds. The spatial...
Article
Full-text available
We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at a location on a barrier island in Yucatan (Mexico). Wave information from a 30 year wave hindcast is validated with in situ measurements at 8 m water depth. The Maximum Dissimilarity Algorithm is employed for the selection of 600 representative cases, encompassi...
Article
Full-text available
We investigate the wave energy potential in the Caribbean Sea using a 30-year wave hindcast. Wave energy in enclosed sea basins, such as the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, is commonly associated with lower energy production rates. However, an easterly zonal wind reaching 13 m/s, known as the Caribbean Low-Level Jet (CCLJ), is shown to contro...
Poster
Full-text available
A comprehensive field experiment devoted to the study of coastal processes on a micro-tidal beach was conducted from March 30th to April 12th 2014 in Sisal, Yucatán México. Wave conditions in the study area are controlled by local (i.e., sea-breezes) and meso-scale (i.e., Nortes) meteorological events. Simultaneous measurements of waves, tides, win...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
An integrated study of turbulence dissipation in the swash zone was conducted in the Large Wave Flume (Großer Wellenkanall, GWK) in Hannover in July 2013. The experiments were focused on the collection of high spatial/temporal resolution data inside the swash zone, consisting of simultaneous measurements of free surface and wave run up from 45 acro...
Article
Wave-mud interaction is investigated via laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. We concurrently measure the free-surface elevation, boundary layer velocities, and rheology, which allows us to reveal the viscosity response of fluid mud under different wave loadings. The commonly adopted constant viscosity assumption is evaluated via linear a...
Poster
Full-text available
El sistema de predicción de oleaje cercano a la costa (Nearshore Wave Prediction System NWPS) fue desarrollado por la National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) con la finalidad de proveer pronóstico en tiempo real de las condiciones de oleaje utilizando mallas de alta resolución. Este sistema se encuentra en operación de manera experim...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
The knowledge of wave loads and wave overtopping over platforms is of paramount importance for the structural design. Wave breaking on structures induces a turbulent multi-phase flow and hence its characterization represents a challenging task for both experimentalists and numerical modelers. More recently, the Bubble Image Velocimetry technique ha...
Article
Full-text available
Low-frequency (lf-) wave energy increases as the waves shoal into shallow waters. However, recent field observations reported an unexpected nearshore lf-wave energy dissipation on muddy seabeds, which cannot be explained by the classic two-layer formulation. Therefore, this phenomenon has been ascribed to either direct dissipation or non-linear ene...
Article
Full-text available
This paper presents experimental and numerical studies of the evolution of dam-break driven wave on a horizontal smooth bed and its implication to sediment transport. Laboratory experiments are carried out using high-speed video images in order to obtain the spatio-temporal evolution of the free surface. Furthermore, a numerical model based on the...
Conference Paper
Parameterization of wave-induced hydrodynamics (i.e.,runup) is of paramount importance in the evaluation of coastal flooding and beach erosion by storms. However, runup parametric models are commonly based on statistical quantities of wave climate (e.g. Hs and Tp), without incorporating the effects of intrawave dynamics (i.e., swash-swash interacti...
Article
Full-text available
This paper describes wave climate and variability in the Gulf of Mexico based on a 30-years wave hindcast. The North American Regional Reanalysis wind fields (NCEP at NOAA) are employed to drive a third generation spectral wave model with high- spatial (0.005° - 0.06°) and temporal (3 hourly) resolution from 1979 through 2008. The wave hindcast inf...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
We investigate the low-frequency wave transformation over a fluid-mud (viscous) layer by means of a phase- and depth- resolving model which solves the Reynolds-Averaged Navier Stokes equations. A numerical model is here extended in order to investigate wave interaction with highly viscous fluid mud in non-uniform water depth. Firstly, the numerical...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Run-up parameterization is an important tool for conducting vulnerability studies on flooding and erosion in coastal areas. This study makes use of a coupling between the SWAN and SWASH models, to investigate the influence of beach morphology and tidal water level on run-up statistics. Furthermore the applicability of current run-up parameterizatio...