Agnes Rocamora

• University of the Arts London

A vital update to the definitive guide to fashion and cultural theory, featuring four new chapters and essential revisions throughout in light of key developments in fashion and fashion studies. Across 19 major thinkers from the 19th to the 21st century, the second edition of this comprehensive collection introduces readers to the process of think...

A vital update to the definitive guide to fashion and cultural theory, featuring four new chapters and essential revisions throughout in light of key developments in fashion and fashion studies. Across 19 major thinkers from the 19th to the 21st century, the second edition of this comprehensive collection introduces readers to the process of thinki...

Italian translation of Thinking through Fashion. A Guide to Key Theorists.

The article approaches the field of fashion influencers as an instance of the pervasive power of datafication and quantification in everyday life. It discusses the role of metrics in the fashion influencer economy, and the quantification of the self it goes hand in hand with, a quantification that is also an object of struggle in the field of influ...

Social media platforms are widely lauded as bastions for entrepreneurial self-actualisation and creative autonomy, offering an answer to historically exclusive and hierarchical creative industries as routes to employability and success. Social media influencers are envied by audiences as having achieved ‘the good life’, one in which they are able t...

Attitudes to fashion have changed radically in the twenty-first century. Dress is increasingly approached as a means of self-expression, rather than as a signifier of status or profession, and designers are increasingly treated as “artists”, as fashion moves towards art and enters the gallery, museum, and retail space. This book is the first to ful...

From artist to curator, couturier to fashion blogger, ‘creative’ professional identities can be viewed as social practices, enacted, performed and negotiated through the media, the public and industry. Fashioning Professionals addresses what it means to be a creative professional, historically and in the digital age, as new ways of working and doin...

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one's ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fas...

This article shows the relevance of the concept of “mediatization” for understanding the contemporary field of fashion and its relation to digital media. It first gives an overview of definitions of mediatization. It then shows that the production of fashion, such as the staging of catwalk shows and the design of collections, is being molded by and...

This chapter looks at the Louis Vuitton website, a site devoted to luxury fashion which in turn forms part of a so-called ‘luxury web sphere’. It situates the brand in the context of the luxury fashion industry. The chapter then focuses on the idea of production and consumption, for both discourses inform much of the website. It interrogates the wa...

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one's ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fas...

In recent years sustainability has been at the forefront of some of the most stimulating reflections on fashion. It is also the main topic of the second issue of the International Journal of Fashion Studies. This had not been planned and is the fortuitous result of the peer reviewing process. But this coincidence is symptomatic of a significant tre...

The International Journal of Fashion Studies argues that the reception of contributions from countries with less visibility in English-language academic publications has been long overdue. This is why it has set as its main aim the dissemination of the work of non-anglophone scholars who write in their first language by publishing their writings in...

Since their appearance in the early noughties, fashion blogs have established themselves as a central platform for the circulation of fashion-related news and information. Often the creation of fashion outsiders, they have entered the mainstream fashion media, bringing to light the shifting nature of fashion journalism. The paper discusses the rise...

Since their appearance at the beginning of the millennium, fashion blogs have become key players in the field of fashion. One type in particular, personal fashion blogs, where bloggers post pictures of themselves documenting their style, has established itself as a central form of fashion blogging. This is the type of blogs that this article concen...

Depuis leur apparition au debut du xxie siecle, les blogs consacres a la mode se sont affirmes comme une plateforme de choix pour l’articulation de pratiques de mode. Les blogs personnels de mode en particulier, sur lesquels les blogueuses postent des images d’elles-memes, constituent un espace de construction identitaire a travers lequel se joue l...

The field of fashion has recently seen the appearance of a new form of digital communication: blogging. There are now numerous independent fashion blogs. Their creators and audiences favor an informal tone, the everyday, thereby supporting a representation of fashion as an ordinary but creative practice, a topic of conversation allowing for the bui...

Le champ de la mode a depuis peu vu l’apparition d’une nouvelle forme de communication digitale : le blogging. Il existe maintenant une multitude de blogs indépendants de mode. Les rédacteurs et leurs audiences y privilégient un ton informel, le quotidien, favorisant ainsi une représentation de la mode comme pratique ordinaire mais néanmoins créati...

Résumé Cet article interroge l’appropriation de la figure de la passante dans les images de mode. Contrastant cette figure avec celle du flâneur, il analyse le thème du genre des pratiques de la ville et des présences masculines et féminines en ses rues. Le jeu du regard propre à la ville – l’observation de l’autre et de son apparence – est analysé...

This article, based on two studies of the fashion industry examines one of its key institutions, London Fashion Week (LFW). Drawing on the work of Bourdieu, we argue that this event is a materialization of the field of fashion.We examine how LFW renders visible the boundaries, relational positions, capital and habitus at play in the field, reproduc...

The field of fashion has now become a major topic of enquiry in social and cultural theory. However, researchers have tended to neglect one of the key sites of production of fashion: the fashion press. Moreover, although readers' letters are a staple of the written media, their role and significance in the titles that convey them has been little in...

Bourdieu’s sociology of culture has been central to studies of consumption. However, although it offers rich insights into his sociology of cultural production and consumption, his work in the field of fashion has been little discussed. This article explores some of Bourdieu’s main ideas, namely the notions of field and subfield, the concept of tra...

This paper is the second in a series of articles I have written on the, as yet, largely unexplored field of fashion journalism. It is also part of my long-running critical engagement with the French fashion media and the discursive construction of the French field of fashion. Discourses on fashion are sites where different versions of fashion are...

Bourdieu argues that cultural objects have material production but also symbolic production, meaning a belief in the value of the work. Different institutions participate through their discourse in the symbolic production of cultural artefacts and the belief that is attached to them. This article focuses on such discourse by analyzing the reports o...