Journal of Industrial Textiles

Jute, an important natural fiber crop grown in Southeast Asia, particularly in India, Bangladesh, and Thailand, has received considerable attention because to its superior mechanical characteristics, high cellulose content, affordability, biodegradability, and benefits for the environment. The data obtained from Web of Science (WoS) and Scopus databases from 2004 to 2023, it explores publication trends, active authors, sources, institutions, and countries contributing to the scientific literature. The investigation uses bibliometric tools like Bibliometrix and VOS viewer to map the intellectual structure and research links. The findings show a steady increase in scholarly production, with a noteworthy high in 2022, highlighting growing awareness of jute’s potential as a sustainable substitute for synthetic materials. The finding shows the critical role that Indian contributors and organizations play in developing sustainability study results, as well as worldwide collaborations, especially with nations in South and Southeast Asia. This research illustrates the important of combining traditional knowledge with emerging technology like precision farming and artificial intelligence (AI) to deal with sustainability challenges. It also highlights weakness such a lack of interdisciplinary collaboration and financial support. These findings help to shape sustainable methods in jute agriculture, with implications for protecting the environment and social development.

Mood fluctuations, influenced by factors such as workplace stress, academic pressure, and interpersonal relationships, can significantly affect mental health and decision making. Effective mood regulation is essential for maintaining psychological well-being, especially during critical developmental phases such as adolescence. Traditional mood management methods often rely on personal willpower and subjective techniques, which can be inadequate in high stress situations. Recent advancements in wearable technology, particularly in the field of smart textiles, have led to continuous and objective mood regulation. This review explores the integration of wearable smart textiles with mood regulation, focusing on emerging technologies that incorporate psychological principles into fabric designs. It examines various wearable textiles equipped with sensors, actuators, and biofeedback mechanisms that monitor physiological indicators related to mood, such as the heart rate and skin conductivity. These technologies not only provide real-time feedback but also offer interactive elements, such as temperature regulation, light modulation, and tactile feedback, allowing users to actively engage with their emotional states. In addition, the integration of mobile applications allows users to track mood patterns and identify emotional triggers, thereby enhancing their self-awareness. In the end, through a synthesis of the current research, this review discusses the psychological impacts of these wearables, including their efficacy in stress reduction, anxiety management, and overall emotional resilience. It also highlights the challenges and future research directions in the realm of wearable mood regulation.

This study addresses the issue of low surface energy of aramid fibers and their fabrics and aims to enhance their mechanical properties including tensile strength and impact resistance. Using the hollow spindle spinning method, aramid fiber bundles are employed as the core yarns with varying twist levels and nylon fibers are used as the wrapping yarns to create the nylon/aramid-wrapped yarns, which are then woven into the nylon/aramid fabrics. The investigation focuses on the effect of core yarn twist levels on the mechanical properties of the yarns and fabrics. Experimental results reveal that applying an appropriate core yarn twist can significantly improve the mechanical properties of the yarns and fabrics. Specifically, with the optimized the core yarn twist of 80 turns per meter (tpm) the tensile and hook strengths of the wrapped yarns reach 3.3 GPa and 1.2 N/Tex, respectively which are about 20.6% and 21.7% increase as compared to the untwisted yarns. Similarly, the plain-woven fabric consisting of the 80 tpm yarns achieves a tensile strength of 2577.9 N/cm, a pull-out force of 160.2 N, and an absorbed energy per unit volume of 436.5 KJ/m³ which are about 20.0%, 31.4% and 30.1% improvement, respectively as compared to the fabrics with the untwisted yarns. Additionally, the optimized fabric presents a 28.4% increase in the energy absorption efficiency and significant enhancement in abrasion resistance. These findings offer valuable insights for the potential applications of the nylon/aramid-wrapped yarns for developing personal protective fabrics and products.

Adolescent idiopathic scoliosis (AIS) is often associated with unbalanced posture and proprioceptive deficits and is particularly prone to progression during puberty. However, limited research has addressed early intervention for mild curves (10-20 degrees). This study aims to examine the effects of a soft bracing intervention using the Posture Correction Girdle (PCG) on 3D postural balance and proprioception in adolescents with early-stage scoliosis. Cobb angles were measured with the X-ray Imaging before and after a 2-h wear trial with the girdle to assess immediate curve reduction. Postural angles were visualized using 3D body scanning. Proprioception was assessed using a motion capture system, focusing on trunk, neck, elbow, and knee movements under the eye-open and eye-closed condition. Data were analyzed using descriptive statistics, t-tests, and Pearson’s correlation and partial Mantel tests to examine postural balance and proprioceptive outcomes. Results indicated significant improvements in postural balance in the frontal and sagittal planes, and proprioception in the dominant-side elbow. However, other proprioceptive measures showed limited changes, with responses differing by spinal curvature. Strong correlations emerged between proprioceptive function and postural angles in the thoracic and lumbar regions. These findings suggest that soft bracing can enhance postural control for mild AIS, though individual variability in responses highlights the need for personalized bracing strategies. This study supports soft bracing as a promising therapeutic option, underscoring the importance of individualized assessment to optimize brace design and effectiveness in early-onset scoliosis management.

Last decade a lot of research was done in the development and investigation of textile-based shielding materials against electromagnetic radiation. Still, there is a gap in understanding the effect of knitted structure (i.e., stitch type and shape) on shielding effectiveness by different shielding mechanisms: reflection and absorption. Seven knitted fabrics were produced on 8-gauge flat knitting machines, using 0.12 mm diameter stainless steel (SS) wire and 30 x 2 tex cotton yarn. The fabrics differ by the method of incorporation of conductive element (SS wire) into the knitted structure: separately and simultaneously with cotton yarn and used interloopings. The effect of stitch type (loop, float, or tuck) was studied as well. It was found that both the method of SS wire incorporation and the shape of its positioning in the knitted structure affect the EMR shielding effectiveness while only the method of SS wire incorporation determines the shielding mechanism: absorption or reflection. The half Milano rib knitted structures demonstrate the best shielding efficiency due to the additional floats behind held loops.

With its unique three-dimensional structure, high porosity, and lightweight, warp-knitted spacer fabric (WKSF) is an excellent insulation material. Multilayer fabric is an effective solution for better heat control, meeting the different requirements of a wide range of applications in the field of temperature control. To know the relationship between structural parameters and heat conductivity, this study highlighted the heat transfer mechanism of multilayer WKSFs. Experimental WKSF samples were fabricated in a double needle bar warp knitting machine and had mesh and plain side layers, different thicknesses of 3 mm, 4 mm, and 4.7 mm. These samples were grouped into multilayer systems by changing thickness and contacting modes between two samples. Experimental results show that the number of layers and the type of contact between the layers affects the internal thermal convection of the multilayer system and thus has a significant effect on its thermal resistance. Also, the WKSF thickness plays a role in the thermal resistance of the multilayer system. To further clarify the heat conducting behavior from a microscopic perspective, a geometry model of multilayer WKSFs and transfer of heat physical field was constructed to perform finite element simulation by ANSYS. By comparing the simulation results with the test results, the established simulation model was practical and it was found that the heat transfer paths of multilayer WKSFs were affected by the distribution of media with different thermal conductivities. The research provides a theoretical reference for studies on thermal insulation materials.

Facing the shift in the weaving industry from mass production to a more diversified, small-batch production model, traditional production scheduling systems are no longer capable of meeting the demand for rapid market response. To address this issue, this paper first analyzes the production process of a weaving workshop, identifying key scheduling challenges such as order allocation, equipment selection, and operation sequencing. Based on this analysis, a flexible job shop multi-objective scheduling model tailored for weaving workshops is developed. To handle the multiple constraints and optimization goals inherent in the model, an improved NSGA-II algorithm is proposed. This algorithm combines artificial bee colony (ABC) algorithm for population initialization with simulated annealing (SA) for population filtering. Simulation examples and case studies from actual workshops demonstrate that the improved NSGA-II algorithm outperforms other algorithms in solving the scheduling problem for weaving workshops. The proposed multi-objective scheduling model and its improved algorithm provide accurate and efficient optimization solutions for workshop scheduling.

The interest in natural fiber reinforced polymer composites is rapidly growing in terms of both industrial and domestic applications. The present study is an attempt to improve the mechanical properties of composites made of areca fiber and epoxy resin with the incorporation of alumina filler. The filler was added in various percentages (0wt%, 2wt%, 4wt%, 6wt%, 8wt %) and the composite fabrication was done by compression molding technique. The fabricated composites were tested for tensile, hardness and impact properties. The results demonstrate that 8wt%Al2O3-A-E composite shows superior (tensile, impact, Hardness) mechanical composites. For improvement of hardness and strength main contributing factors were uniform dispersion of Al2O3 (Aluminum oxide) particles and better load transfer between Al2O3 (Aluminum oxide) particles and epoxy matrix. The effect of alkaline treatment of areca of fibers was verified by FTIR analysis. The experimental investigation attempt to improve the Areca epoxy composites by loading fillers and for the applications of light weight and high strength components in different sectors like aerospace and automobiles. Fracture surfaces were analyzed using Scanning Electron micrograph (SEM).

The textile industry is striving versatile range of coatings, which imparts multifunctional properties to them. There are many fields where coated textiles perform effectively, where standalone nanoparticles or finishes fail to perform adequately. However, the chemicals, finishes, and synthetically produced nanomaterials currently in use have negative ecological impacts. Hence the review focused on current developments in ecologically friendly biosynthesis techniques for the magnesium oxide nanoparticles, their coating over the textile structures and outlining the potential and novel applications of textiles coated with MgO-NPs in different areas. Due to the rising need for green chemistry and the perspective of nanoparticles in a variety of uses, magnesium oxide nanoparticle production using sustainable and environmentally clean processes has gained popularity. Current advancements in the ecologically pleasant creation of MgO-NPs are those mediated by plants, microbes, and other natural processes. The objective of the current work was to gather all potential methods for the environmentally friendly synthesis of MgO-NPs. Secondly, elaborates on all possible novel applications that green synthetic MgO-NPs coated textiles could have in several industries. The various MgO-NP attributes including size, shape, surface area and their functional characteristics like flammability and antipathogenicity, biocompatibility and redox potential are discussed. The numerous uses of the MgO-NPs coated textiles are also highlighted, including their use as wastewater treatment agents, energy systems, drug delivery, catalysts, and biomedical fields. There is also discussion of these particles in some possible applications in other fields, like nanomedicine and food packaging. The current challenges and future directions in the environmentally friendly MgO-NP production along with applications are also addressed.

This study assesses the shielding efficacy of local electromagnetic shield for the thyroid gland. The investigation employed a mechanical model of a thyroid shield gear, integrating it within a high-resolution three-dimensional virtual model (Duke). The simulation environment and biological electromagnetic model were constructed from 1 to 6 GHz, with the Finite-Difference Time-Domain (FDTD) algorithm. The results indicated that the specific absorption rate (SAR) values of the thyroid were significantly elevated under forward irradiation and in the L band (1–2 GHz). In addition, the local electromagnetic shield reduced the SAR values at the thyroid position, with a shielding efficiency ranging from 15 to 40 dB across the evaluated frequency range. Further, the local shielding effectiveness of the thyroid have obvious variety between frequency and polarization. However, the data also indicated a potential increase in SAR values in other tissues, notably the eyes by up to 4 dB. The study determines that local electromagnetic shields markedly reduce radiofrequency radiation to the thyroid, necessitating a balanced design approach that accounts for both protective benefits and side effects on other tissues. The method and result provide a new perspective and quantitative data for thyroid protection, which has important guiding significance for the design and practical application of electromagnetic protection products.

Products made of fluorescent textiles have a variety of applications, most notably as smart textiles for human safety during outdoor sports, as well as for detecting authenticity and avoiding counterfeiting. Fluorescence in smart fabrics is obtained via dyeing or printing the fabrics by fluorescent inks which based on organic fluorescent dyes, rare earth metal, dendrimers. This review highlights and discuss the fundamental ideas of fluorescence, fluorescent coloring materials (organic or inorganic), the processes used to prepare some fluorescent dyes, ink formulations, and other related topics. Additionally, we have discussed their capacity to print on various surfaces using various printing methods by reviewing current advancements made to clear the way for further studies in this area.

Conventional leather chromium tanning requires long process time, excessive water usage and results in low float exhaustion of chrome salts. Our study aimed to eliminate the negative aspects of chromium tanning by designing a vacuum operated reaction vessel/drum and suitable production recipe for sheepskins. Tanning time decreased from 10 h to 6 h under vacuum. Float uptake was increased almost 30% according to the chrome oxide (Cr2O3) contents in leather and residual floats. Using the process water was also considerably saved. Process success was proved with Cr2O3 contents in leather and wastewater by chemical analyses after tanning operations. Shrinkage temperature (Ts) controls as hydrothermal stability indicator of collagen were also realized on the tanned skins. Pollution loads of conventional and vacuum operated chromium tanning were discussed with chemical oxygen demand (COD), total suspended solids (TSS), conductivity and salinity in the tanning baths. Physico-mechanical properties were also compared of the final products by tensile strength and tear load analyses. The results showed that vacuum operated chromium tanning was highly effective and promised for the sustainable production of leather products.

A new approach for functional finishing of cotton fabric using copper oxide nanoparticles and the phenolic compound of Azolla nilotica algae extract synergistically. In this sense, green synthesis nanoparticles have gained enormous attention in today’s world due to the ongoing demand to develop risk-free and high-efficiency functional cotton fabric compared to other methods. This study carried out the green synthesis of CuONPs with algae extract as a reducing agent and CuSO4 as a metal precursor. Phenolic compounds were prepared from algae extract through liquid-phase separation and combined with CuONPs to enhance the functionality of cotton. CuONPs were characterized using X-ray diffraction (XRD), a scanning electron microscope (SEM), FTIR spectral analysis, and a UV-vis spectrophotometer. The average particle size obtained was 21.59 nm. Optimization of process parameters for treating cotton fabric with CuONPs and phenolic compounds of algae extract was done using Box Behenken Design through the dip coating method. Finally, the fabric was evaluated for its multi-functionality in terms of antibacterial activity and percent blocking of ultraviolet radiation. From the optimization solution, the optimum values of 27.625 mm Zone of inhibition (ZOI) for gram-negative bacteria, 23.88 mm ZOI for gram-positive bacteria, and percent blocking of ultraviolet radiation with a value of 99.99% were obtained. In summary, the combination of CuONPs and phenolic compounds in Azolla notica algae extract possesses excellent potential for the functionalization of cotton fabric without affecting its comfort properties. Hence, they can be used as an inexpensive, promising, and efficient alternative for functional purposes.

Strain-load is a critical aspect of high-performance textile composites, and testing and application of these materials require significant time, numerous samples, as well as extensive physical experimentation. To address these challenges, this study proposes the construction of machine learning prediction models as an alternative to traditional methods for assessing the strain-load performance of 3D woven fabrics. Four algorithms of Random Forest, Ridge Regressor, K-Nearest Neighbor, and Multi-layer Perceptron were investigated with different feature extraction strategies to predict the strain-load curves of 3D woven fabrics for both warp and weft directions as a whole. A total of 62 datasets sourced from the literature were investigated with 5-fold cross validation in model construction. The results indicate that the strain-load curves can be effectively simulated by different machine learning models basically, and more data with better feature extraction is expected to promote the prediction performance of constructed models in more application cases in future work.

The wicking performance of fabrics is crucial for the thermal comfort of the human body and significantly affects the fabric’s overall moisture management properties. This study aims to illustrate the impact of varying liquid temperatures on the wicking performance of Plant-Cool knitted fabric from experimentally and numerically. Experimental results indicate that as the liquid temperature increases (from 5°C to 65°C), the wicking height in the fabrics consistently increases. However, different fabric compositions exhibit varying sensitivities to temperature changes. The fabric with the best wicking performance (Fabric A) shows the least sensitivity to temperature changes, with wicking curves at different temperatures being very close to each other. The fabric with moderate wicking performance (Fabric B) has a moderate sensitivity to temperature changes but shows insensitivity under low-temperature conditions. The fabric with the poorest wicking performance (Fabric C) is the most sensitive to temperature changes, although its sensitivity is less pronounced under high-temperature conditions. The Laughlin-Davies model has proven to be successful in describing the wicking process of fabrics. Additionally, simulations conducted using COMSOL have been effective, offering a deeper understanding of the wicking process in fabrics.

This study reports the successful preparation of rare-earth Eu-doped ZnO composite films on cotton fabric, achieving remarkable luminescent properties through the magnetron sputtering method. A comprehensive analysis of the structural and luminescent characteristics of the samples was conducted using various evaluation techniques, including scanning electron microscopy (SEM), fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), UV absorption spectroscopy, photoluminescence spectroscopy, photocatalysis testing and color fastness measurements. The findings indicate that the affiliation of Eu³⁺ ions significantly enhanced the luminescent intensity along with the photocatalytic property of the ZnO-loaded fabrics. Furthermore, the sample sputtered for a duration of 1 hour exhibited superior overall optical performance than that of 3 hours. This study demonstrates the potential of Eu-doped ZnO composite films for various applications, including luminescent and photocatalytic textiles.

This paper aims to test the suitability of two nanofibrous membranes as a lining in outdoor shoes, especially leather ones. The motivation is that leather shoes offer some water resistance but are not fully waterproof. By inserting a membrane, higher hydrostatic resistance is achieved while maintaining the vapor permeability of the upper material - leather. Two nanofibrous membranes were developed, and three-layer and four-layer laminates were made from them. In addition to the membrane, the lining, and the top material, the four-layer laminate also contains a thermal insulation layer. These laminates were investigated concerning the following properties: hydrostatic resistance, water vapor permeability, thermal insulation, and air permeability, while the first two properties were chosen as crucial. For the study to be complete, the sample set was supplemented with commercially available membranes. It was found that laminates containing nanofiber membranes provide interesting properties: hydrostatic resistance higher than 10 m and water vapor permeability around 5 Pa.m².W⁻¹, which is promising, especially considering the vapor permeability of the shoe’s upper material – leather. From the selected laminate, a cut was designed, and an inner shoe was realized, which was subsequently incorporated into outdoor leather footwear.

Inspired by the multi-layered structure found in banana pseudostem, an innovative bionic pseudostem-like multilayer weft-knitted spacer fabric (ML-WKSF) was proposed for the development of high-performance and mass-produced personal protective materials. ML-WKSFs with different spacer filament diameters (0.15, 0.175, and 0.2 mm) were produced on a computerized flat knitting machine, incorporating thermoplastic filaments during the knitting process to enhance structural supporting of the spacer filaments. In both flat compression and fatigue compression tests, the ML-WKSF with 0.15 mm filament exhibited superior compressive resistance and fatigue resistance due to the more compact fabric structure resulting from the smaller diameter monofilaments, which facilitated uniform stress distribution. Additionally, composite fabrics were prepared using a shear thickening fluid (STF) with a SiO2 mass fraction of 70%, and mechanical property tests were conducted. The composite fabrics displayed similar trends to the pure fabrics in both flat compression and fatigue compression tests. Differently, the integration of STF with the monofilaments led to an increase in compressive load bearing capacity. In low-velocity impact tests, larger spacer filaments resulted in better impact resistance for the fabrics as the impact force was locally dispersed. The composite with 0.2 mm spacer filaments demonstrated excellent impact resistance and energy absorption, achieving an energy absorption efficiency of 69% at an initial impact energy of 40 J.

Solution Blow Spinning (SBS) has garnered significant attention for its rapid production of fibers from polymeric solutions. However, its efficacy is hindered by the low evaporation rates of aqueous solvents. In a groundbreaking development, we introduce the Heat Assisted Solution Blow Spinning (HA-SBS) system, which, for the first time, enables the one-step production of crosslinked Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibers from an aqueous solution. By incorporating chlorhexidine (CHX) and/or graphene nanoplatelets (GNP) into the starting solution, we formulated four distinct variations. Our results reveal that all HA-SBS-produced systems maintain robust structural integrity and fibrous architecture after water immersion. The inclusion of GNP nanofillers not only enhances the crosslinking level but also significantly boosts mechanical performance. Release tests indicate that HA-SBS membranes effectively decelerate CHX release, providing controlled and sustained antimicrobial efficacy. Notably, CHX-containing membranes exhibit potent antimicrobial activity against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. This innovative approach holds great promise for advancing the production of functional fibrous membranes, with broad implications for various applications.

The lower hook mechanism has the characteristics of long motion path, high moving speed and high external disturbance, significantly impacting the weaving efficiency of the fishing net weaving machine. The multi-motor-based lower hook mechanism exhibits higher moving speed and lesser cam wear compared with the traditional lower hook mechanism, but it requires a high-precision and high-robust control system. In this study, we established a dynamic model for the multi-motor lower hook mechanism using the Lagrange equation. Based on this model, we developed a control system using linear extended state observer (LESO) and piecewise integral terminal sliding mode controller (PITSMC). By introducing a piecewise integral sliding surface, PISMC solved the slow convergence issue of linear sliding surfaces and the singularity problem of integral terminal sliding surfaces. Simulation results for the multi-motor-based lower hook mechanism demonstrate that the proposed PISMC outperforms the nonsingular terminal sliding mode controller and the conventional integral sliding mode controller in terms of control precision and disturbance rejection capability.

This study details the fabrication of a hybrid fabric structure achieved through the utilization of copper-cotton core-spun yarns and a streamlined dip-coating method for the coating of MXene sheets. This fabrication approach results in a substantial enhancement in electromagnetic interference shielding efficiency (EMI SE) in the X-band frequency (8.2-12.4 GHz) while significantly reducing the required number of MXene coating steps. The textile samples fabricated with 0.08 mm diameter copper core filaments and a knitting density of 12 gauge (needle/inch) exhibit a peak EMI SE of 43.9 dB following three MXene coating cycles, utilizing a 1×1 Rib knit pattern. In comparison, employing a Full Milano knit pattern results in an improved EMI SE, reaching up to 45.2 dB. These findings elucidate the substantial impact of knit structure and the effective MXene coating process on improving the EMI SE for hybrid textiles.

Professionals engaged in fire rescue and industrial production may face the danger of hot liquids and steam. They need to be equipped with specific thermal protective clothing (TPC) to ensure their safety. To evaluate how well TPC protects against hot liquids and steam, this paper reviewed the mechanism of hot liquids and steam, the factors affecting its protection, and measurement methods. Firstly, the characteristics of hot liquids and steam are analyzed from the perspective of heat transfer mode, and the importance of hot liquids and steam protection is emphasized. Secondly, the factors affecting protection performance of hot liquids and steam is reviewed base on relevant researches, focusing on the fundamental properties of fabrics, the air layer under clothing, the moisture factor, clothing factor and the environmental factor. Finally, the existing measurement methods for hot liquid and steam protection performance are summarized, and the deficiencies in the existing research has been discussed. At last, this paper looks forward to the development of the future research direction. This review provides reference ideas for protective measures against hot liquid and steam burns, and provides new ideas for the design and optimization of hot liquid and steam protective clothing.

In exploring the viability of kenaf fiber-reinforced epoxy nonwoven composites (KFRECs) for renewable energy infrastructure, the optimization of their manufacturing techniques for maximum performance remains a significant research gap. This study addresses this challenge by investigating the optimization of nonwoven composites’ fabrication techniques to enhance their mechanical, thermal, and microstructural robustness. Thus, an innovative vacuum double-bagging technique was compared with single-bagging and hand lay-up methods aimed at evaluating their impact on tensile and flexural strength, hardness, impact, and thermal resistance. The obtained results indicate that the vacuum single-bagging method significantly improved tensile and impact strength by 16% and 38.5%, respectively, while the vacuum double-bagging offered the greatest improvements in flexural strength and hardness, with increases of 112.6% and 15.3%, respectively, compared to the hand lay-up technique. SEM analysis confirmed the vacuum processing techniques produced well-consolidated composite structures with uniform fiber distribution, complete wettability, a good fiber-matrix interface, and a reduced void content, leading to improved material properties. Finite Element Analysis (FEA) simulations revealed a variation in tensile stress of approximately 22.4% and a close agreement with a minimal variation of 2.1% in flexural stress, further validating these optimized techniques. The results also correlate with enhanced thermal behavior and rigidity at elevated temperatures, with the vacuum double-bagging technique exhibiting the highest thermal stability for the demanding conditions of the energy infrastructure sector. The study concludes that the choice of fabrication technique is pivotal for advancing the design, properties and performance of KFRECs, for sustainable energy structures.

Many manufacturing processes of fibrous composites involve fiber movement to obtain a targeted fibrous preform before the resin is injected or polymerized. The ability of the fibers to move within the yarn can be named “cohesion.” To obtain a correct preform, it is of great importance to know and master yarn cohesion. As there is currently no available method to characterize yarn cohesion upstream, the process parameters have very often to be tuned using lengthy trial and error strategies. This paper proposes to address this issue, demonstrating that the yarn cantilever bending test is a very promising and efficient candidate to characterize and quantify yarn cohesion. In addition, the test can be easily performed in an industrial context and is sensitive enough to discriminate small variations in cohesion, even small discrepancies resulting from the yarn manufacturing process. Above all, thanks to real manufacturing tests on different yarns, this paper shows that the upstream identification of cohesion using the proposed cantilever bending test achieves the goal of predicting the yarn processability.

Most effective and durable finishes for cotton fabrics typically contain toxic and sometimes carcinogenic chemicals. Although certain bio-based alternative finishes have been reported in literature but these alternatives are usually less effective than conventional toxic finishes. To improve the performance of bio-based finishes, this paper develops and improves a novel and ecofriendly finishing process for 100% cotton fabric, based on ozone treatments in very controlled amount for the first time. Four types of bio-finishes including citric acid, stearic acid, diammonium hydrogen phosphate and fatty acid amide, for easy care, water repellency, fire retardancy and softness properties respectively were used in this research. For each finish, three ozone-based finishing processes; pre-ozonation, in-situ ozonation, and post-ozonation were developed and optimized. For all four types of bio finishes, fabrics with 20% post ozonation exhibited superior finish performance. Crease recovery angle increased from 121° to 194°, water repellency rating improved from rating 0 to 90, char length decreased from 26.6 cm to 10.8 cm and bending length decreased from 2.16 mm to 1.1 mm by using bio-based finishes with ozone exposure without compromising mechanical and comfort properties of cotton fabrics. SEM, FTIR and XRD analysis were also performed on ozone exposed and finished fabrics.