École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs

A major effort in technological development was conducted during the 19th century. The polychrome surfaces of the metal parts of a corner cabinet, a torch vase, an “elephant” vase, and a candelabra pair designed by Emile Reiber between 1874 and 1878 for the Christofle & Cie Company were investigated on site by means of noninvasive Raman, FTIR, and X‐ray fluorescence spectroscopy after examination under white light at different magnifications and under UV illumination. Despite the low thickness of the patinas (a few tens of microns) different (electro)chemically formed phases were identified in these layers (Cu2O, Ag2S, CuS or Cu2S, and sulfates). Residues of organic conservation products are identified by FTIR reflectance. The results are compared with the information available in the patents filed by the company as well as other written sources from that period. The pigments and opacifiers (Naples yellows, lead arsenates, fluorite, spinels, cassiterite, and chromates), and the vitreous matrices of the cloisonné enamels of the objects above are identified and testify to the deliberate combination of European and Asian enameling techniques.

We attempted to consider Albarella Island as a model for estimating the ability of humans and the capacity of the environment to react to climate change. On its 550 hectares, this island hosts management centers, 2800 private homes, several restaurants and hotels, shops, public and private swimming pools, a golf course, beaches, green areas equipped to satisfy the 2,000 stable inhabitants and more than 110,000 annual tourists. We collected data on the following variables: 1) net carbon storage of the semi-natural ecosystems; 2) diet of humans staying on the island; 3) currently used fossil energy; 4) electricity demand; 5) waste produced; 6) transport. A dynamic simulation model of the island’s CO2 equivalent (CO2eq) emissions proposes two scenarios that illustrate how these variables can change over the next 10 years if the management remains that of the present day, or switching to all photovoltaics, proposing new diets to inhabitants and tourists, and planting trees on half of the island’s lawns. In the second case, CO2eq emissions lowered to 1/4 of the current value, bringing them to the level of 50-60 years ago. Running the Albarella touristic activities with renewed technology and minimum emissions impact in 2032 produces 4.8 kty⁻¹of CO2eq: 14.5% (0.7 kty⁻¹ of CO2eq) of these emissions could be stored in the ecosystems of the island, 25% (1.2 kty⁻¹) would be produced by the solar panels construction, functionning and recycling that would furnish all the necessary domestic and industrial energy, and 60.5% (2.9 kty⁻¹) would correspond to the emissions to supply the island’s food needs. Theoretically, the technological response works. The implementation of the model on the island is discussed, opening up global perspectives. Maintaining the current level of consumption, with the technical and natural means available today, it is not possible to go below 20% of today’s emissions.

In this interview, Yuyun Wahyuningrum, an Indonesian representative of the ASEAN Intergovernmental Commission on Human Rights (AICHR), explains her work of diplomacy. She presents the dialogue that takes place between representatives of the institution and between the institution and other diplomatic representations. She analyses the difficulties, negotiations, and successes in dealing with several human rights issues, such as the Myanmar issue, trafficking in person, right to health, persons with disabilities, and migrant workers. Yuyun emphasises her personal positions and the solutions she finds and invents through contact with her counterparts and through the process of interaction with various components of civil society.

Garment pattern-making is one of the most important parts of the apparel industry. However, traditional pattern-making is an experience-based work, very time-consuming and ignores the body shape difference. This paper proposes a parametric design method for garment pattern based on body dimensions acquired from a body scanner and body features (body feature points and three segmented body part shape classification) identified by designers according to their professional knowledge. By using this method, we construct a men's shirt pattern recommendation system oriented to personalised fit. The system consists of two databases and three models. The two databases include a relational database (Database I) and a personalised basic pattern (PBP) database (Database II). The Database I is based on manual and three-dimensional (3D) measurements of human bodies by using designer's knowledge. And Database I is a relational database, which is organised in terms of the relational model of the body part shape and its key body feature dimensions. After a deep analysis of measured data, the irrelevant measured dimensions to human body shape have been excluded by designers and extract representative human body feature dimensions. In addition, the relations between body shapes and previously identified body feature dimensions have been modelled. From the above relational model, we label key feature point positions on the corresponding 3D body model obtained from 3D body scanning and correct the whole 3D human upper body model into the semantically interpretable one. The 3D personalised basic pattern is drawn on the corrected model based on these key feature points. By using three-dimensional to two-dimensional (3D-to-2D) flattening technology, a 2D flatten graph of the 3D personalised basic pattern of the interpretable model is obtained and slightly adjusted to the form suitable for industrial production, i.e., PBP and the PBP database (Database II) is built. In addition, the three models include a basic pattern parametric model (Model I) (characterizing the relations between the basic pattern and its key influencing human dimensions (chest girth and back length)), a regression model (Model II) which enables to infer from basic pattern to PBP for three body parts based on the one-to-one correspondence of key points between the PBPs and the basic patterns and a personalised shirt pattern parametric model (Model III) (characterizing the structural relations between the personalised shirt pattern (PBPshirt) and PBP). The initial input items of the recommendation system are the body dimension constraint parameters, including chest girth, back length and the body feature dimensions used to determine each body part shape as well as three shirt style constraint parameters (slim, regular and loose). By using Model I, the corresponding basic pattern can be generated through the user's chest girth and back length. Body feature dimensions determine the three body parts' shapes. Then, Model II is used to generate the PBP for the corresponding body parts shape. Based on the shirt style chosen by the user, Mode III is used to generate the PBPshirt from the PBP. The output of the recommendation system is a fit-oriented PBPshirt. Moreover, if the PBPshirt is unsatisfactory after a virtual try-on, four adjustable parameters (front side-seam dart, back side-seam dart, waist dart and garment bodice length) are designed to adjust the PBPshirt generated by the proposed recommendation system.

The level of thermal-moisture comfort experienced by an individual is strongly influenced by the clothing they wear and also influenced by the ease allowance of that clothing. This study aimed to investigate the impact of ease allowances of clothing on thermal-moisture comfort during exercise or movement. Seventeen female subjects were asked to wear sample clothing with different sizes during a designated 5-phase exercise in a climate chamber. Throughout the exercise phases, the temperature and humidity of the microclimate under the clothing were monitored while the subjects provided subjective evaluations of their comfort levels. To account for variation in ease allowances, the 32 experimental repetitions were grouped based on the ease allowance of the clothing worn. The FCE-CRITIC method was then used to determine the variable weights of factors and to compare the thermal-moisture status to the subjective evaluation. Results revealed that humidity was more strongly weighted during RS and RC (i.e., running and recovery phase after exercise) compared to other phases, means that moisture comfort was the main factor driving the clothing comfort sensation within the two phases. The ease allowance of clothing was found to have an impact on the sensations of thermal and moisture comfort during exercise, although this effect was not significant. Furthermore, the study identified the optimum range of ease allowance for thermal-moisture comfort during exercise to be between 6 and 10 cm.

C’est, nous semble-t-il, le sensible qui caractérise notre rapport aux créations artistiques. Rendre compte de cette dimension sensible de l’œuvre demande l’élaboration d’une « pensée poétique », condition pour chercher à répondre à la question « quand y a-t-il art ? ». À partir des œuvres de Dan Graham, Lawrence Weiner et Peter Downsbrough ‒ représentatives au sein des arts plastiques quant à la déstabilisation poétique de la logique du signifiant ‒ nous voulons montrer que seules l’introduction de la notion d’éthique et la question du statut du sujet permettent de circonscrire l’art et son discours. Ce texte plaide pour aborder l’œuvre dans son processus d’énonciation en saisissant d’un seul tenant sa matérialité, le sujet créateur et le processus symbolique de création du sens et ce, en prenant comme références principales les travaux de Didier Vaudène et du dernier Benveniste.

Biocalcification is a naturally occurring mineralisation phenomenon resulting from the urease produced by microorganisms inhabiting soil environments. This process, often referred to as microbially induced calcite precipitation (MICP), is primarily exploited in an engineering context for soil stabilisation and the repair of concrete structures. MICP represents an emerging area of research in architecture and design. In this paper, we discuss the appropriation of MICP on Papier Plume, a foam made of paper waste used in the context of ImpressioVivo: a design-led research project exploring the conception and fabrication of 3D-printed and bacterially induced bio-sourced materials for a circular design framework. In the light of a previous study based on two strategies of calcification: (1) direct inoculation (2) spraying, we – a team of two designers and a microbiologist – discuss the relevance of an immersion strategy applied to the dry paper foam substrate. By doing so, we reflect on the relevance of MICP as a material design process underpinned by sustainable and circularity concerns, from a design perspective, but also into an attempt to embrace the perspective of the bacteria supporting these experiments; namely Sporosarcina pasteurii.

Background Electrocardiographic imaging (ECGI) generates electrophysiological (EP) biomarkers while cardiovascular magnetic resonance (CMR) imaging provides data about myocardial structure, function and tissue substrate. Combining this information in one examination is desirable but requires an affordable, reusable, and high-throughput solution. We therefore developed the CMR-ECGI vest and carried out this technical development study to assess its feasibility and repeatability in vivo. Methods CMR was prospectively performed at 3T on participants after collecting surface potentials using the locally designed and fabricated 256-lead ECGI vest. Epicardial maps were reconstructed to generate local EP parameters such as activation time (AT), repolarization time (RT) and activation recovery intervals (ARI). 20 intra- and inter-observer and 8 scan re-scan repeatability tests. Results 77 participants were recruited: 27 young healthy volunteers (HV, 38.9 ± 8.5 years, 35% male) and 50 older persons (77.0 ± 0.1 years, 52% male). CMR-ECGI was achieved in all participants using the same reusable, washable vest without complications. Intra- and inter-observer variability was low (correlation coefficients [ r s ] across unipolar electrograms = 0.99 and 0.98 respectively) and scan re-scan repeatability was high ( r s between 0.81 and 0.93). Compared to young HV, older persons had significantly longer RT (296.8 vs 289.3 ms, p = 0.002), ARI (249.8 vs 235.1 ms, p = 0.002) and local gradients of AT, RT and ARI (0.40 vs 0.34 ms/mm, p = 0,01; 0.92 vs 0.77 ms/mm, p = 0.03; and 1.12 vs 0.92 ms/mm, p = 0.01 respectively). Conclusion Our high-throughput CMR-ECGI solution is feasible and shows good reproducibility in younger and older participants. This new technology is now scalable for high throughput research to provide novel insights into arrhythmogenesis and potentially pave the way for more personalised risk stratification. Clinical trial registration: Title: Multimorbidity Life-Course Approach to Myocardial Health—A Cardiac Sub-Study of the MRC National Survey of Health and Development (NSHD) (MyoFit46). National Clinical Trials (NCT) number: NCT05455125. URL: https://clinicaltrials.gov/ct2/show/NCT05455125?term=MyoFit&draw=2&rank=1

Bacteria are rarely considered as belonging to the architectural realm. Yet they are part of the built environment as they are part of our own bodies. In the emerging field of biodesigned architecture, bacteria are involved in the visual expression as well as the structural performance of buildings. In this visual essay, we reflect on the results of a curriculum-based workshop focused on the biocalcification of textiles, a rigidification process informed by the bacterially induced precipitation of calcite. Building on the pioneering work of architects Bastian Beyer and Daniel Suarez in this area, the results point at the rich textile vocabulary through which biocalcification can be expressed and the value of interdisciplinary collaborations sitting at the intersection of textile design, architecture and microbiology.

INTRODUCTION: In hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM), ventricular arrhythmia associates with severity of LVH and scar, and presence vs absence of a sarcomeric gene mutation (G+LVH+ vs G-LVH+). Also, ECG changes in subclinical HCM (G+LVH-) signal increased risk of phenotype progression. HYPOTHESES: ECG Imaging (ECGI) can detect: i) subtle electrophysiological (EP) abnormalities in subclinical HCM (pre-LVH). ii) EP abnormalities related to genetic status (G+ vs G-LVH+) and structural changes (late gadolinium enhancement [LGE], max. wall thickness [MWT]) in overt disease. METHODS: 200 participant multicenter study: 70 G+LVH-, 51 G+LVH+, 53 G-LVH+ and 26 healthy volunteers (HV) underwent 12-lead ECG (to detect abnormal Q-waves, repolarization changes, LVH criteria) and CMR-ECGI computing epicardial unipolar electrograms (UEGs) to derive: activation time (AT), activation-recovery intervals (ARIc), spatial gradients (activation: G AT , repolarisation: G RT ) and fractionation. RESULTS: Compared to HV, G+LVH- had prolongation of AT (40.3±7.3 vs 35.4±6.1 ms p=0.003) and steeper G RT (mean: 1.12±0.27 vs 1.00±0.23 ms/mm p=0.042, max: 11.7±2.8 vs 10.0±1.9 ms/mm p=0.005). AT was prolonged even in G+LVH- with a normal 12-lead ECG (p<0.004). Compared to G+LVH-, G+LVH+ had similar AT but a more prolonged ARIc (275±29 vs 245±26 ms p<0.001). Compared to G-LVH+, G+LVH+ had similar MWT and LGE, but more signal fractionation (0.02±0.02 vs 0.01±0.03% UEGs with ≥2 deflections p=0.002). In overt HCM (all LVH+), MWT associated with AT ( r s 0.25 p=0.011) while LGE burden associated with G AT ( r s=0.27 p=0.006) and fractionation ( r s=0.22 p=0.025). CONCLUSION: Cardiac activation prolongation and repolarization abnormalities occur in subclinical HCM (before hypertrophy). Activation is prolonged even in subclinical HCM with normal 12-lead ECG. In overt HCM, ECGI abnormalities track adverse structural changes and reveal greater fractionation in those with a sarcomeric mutation.

The present multidimensional study investigates the acquisition of pronominal subject-verb dependencies in Standard Haitian Creole (HC). A corpus analysis confirms that HC subject pronouns are phonological clitics in the target grammar and that their reduction is optional and unpredictable. The comprehension and production of dependencies involving these subject pronouns in 20 preschoolers acquiring HC as their first language were investigated. While the production of third person singular and plural subject pronouns l(i) and y(o) reveals early mastery of adult constraints on their phonological reductions, the systematic assignments of l(i) to singular subjects vs. y(o) to plural subjects of the verb in the syntactic dependency emerge later, in both production and comprehension. The few syntactic contexts in which HC-learning children show evidence of comprehension involve full forms, rather than phonological reductions. Possible factors that explain these findings include the relative unpredictability of their forms and the linguistic status of HC pronouns.

The research on the triboelectric phenomenon and its use in the so-called triboelectric generators (TEG) has often led scientists to study the various parameters involved in the production of electricity induced by the contact and friction of textile structures. Although the use of textile materials and structures to build textile-based TEGs is of particular interest thanks to the advantages they can offer, however, the parameter of ambient humidity acts intensively on triboelectricity, affecting their electric power outcomes. This study investigates the performance of purely textile-based materials used in a TEG measuring device which combines vertical and sliding modes as if they are part of a wearable garment. Six single jersey knitted textile samples, of identical yarn linear densities were prepared. One material (para-aramid) was used as the reference sample and it was paired with the rest (cotton, modal, polyester, wool and acrylic). Consequently, five material combinations were available for measuring under various relative humidity conditions. Through these test series which reflect how a textile-based TEG would operate under real conditions when embedded in a garment, the results revealed the big impact of ambient humidity on the triboelectric voltage outcome.

Efficient thermal management is essential for the energy balance and thermal comfort. In this context, the design of textiles, which can modulate the infrared radiation emitted by the human body, is attractive. These fabrics will manage the microclimate between the skin and fabric. The proposed textile design consists of the coating of commercial woven fabrics based on polyamide 6–6 by a dip‐coating process. The coating is based on the incorporation of fine spherical silica particles with a submicron size within thermosensitive poly(N‐isopropylacrylamide) hydrogels. Neat commercial fabrics reflect 12% of the radiation, while the addition of silica particles leads to a reflection of 24% of the infrared radiation in the 5–15 μm wavelengths range. The infrared radiation reflection capacity of the coated fabrics can be increased by managing the size and the content of the silica particles, which allows reaching 36% of reflected radiation. Our findings open opportunities for warming up fabrics and thus reduce energy consumption in heating close space.

An original fully textile combiner is proposed to power supply sensors close to a body with only one centralized source of energy like a smartphone, for instance. A solution is provided for taking into account the requirements of an industrial production process that need to minimize needle movements during an embroidery process. Moreover, the paper shows how to support several wireless power transmission standards that already exist, i.e. NFC and A4WP, or will exist to satisfy the tremendous needs of energy for distributed systems in the IoT domain. In this paper, a new textile-based flexible wireless system enabling communication and energy harvesting is proposed. Analytical, numerical, and experimental studies have been conducted to demonstrate that the structure has two resonant frequencies at 6.8 MHz and 13.6 MHz, which make it suitable for NFC and A4WP standards. Moreover, the losses caused by the system are 2.76 dB and 1.91 dB for A4WP and NFC, respectively. The results are successively presented to highlight the specificities of such textile multi-coils combiners. A method for gaining a resonant structure without any solid electronic component is explained.

The fashion industry is facing increasing pressure to move toward sustainable development, especially with concern to cost and environmental sustainability. Innovative digital technologies are regarded as a promising solution for fashion companies to resolve this issue. In this context, this paper put forth a new 3D reverse garment design approach embedded with a garment fit prediction and structure self-adaptive adjustment mechanism, using machine learning (ML) techniques. Initially, the 3D basic garment was drawn directly on the scanned mannequin of a specific consumer. Next, a probabilistic neural network (PNN) was employed to predict the garment’s fit. Afterwards, genetic algorithms (GA) and support vector regression (SVR) were utilized to estimate and control the garment structural parameters following the feedback of fit evaluation and the consumer’s personalized needs. Meanwhile, a comprehensive evaluation was constructed to characterize the quantitative relationships between the consumer profile and the designed garment profile (garment fit and styles). Ultimately, the desired garment which met the consumer’s needs was obtained by performing the routine of “design–fit evaluation–pattern adjustment–comprehensive evaluation”, iteratively. The experimental results show that the proposed approach provides a new solution to develop quality personalized fashion products (garments) more accurately, economically, and in an environmentally friendly way. It is feasible to facilitate the sustainable development of fashion companies by simultaneously reducing costs and negative impacts on the environment.