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... The adoption of a 'cost-per-wear' methodology might help justify paying a higher price to the end customer. However, the perception that "you get what you pay for" has been proved incorrect by different studies conducted both in the 1990s and in more recent years (Agins, 2000;Badgett, 2019;Farashahi et al., 2018), which revealed that higher-priced garments (e.g., a pair of jeans or a T-shirt) do not always or necessarily perform better than their lower-priced alternatives. ...
As luxury fashion brands need to address the environmental impact of their products (both internally and externally), a framework to achieve a common and accessible language becomes paramount to avoid confusing claims. Tools, such as Life Cycle Assessment and Eco-Design, help companies assess and reduce the negative effects of their products on the environment; nonetheless, more work is needed. The desire to create durable goods is a direct reaction to the current throw-away culture perpetuated by planned obsolescence during the production phase of many fast-fashion brands. However, without a proper understanding of the term ‘durability’ and its different dimensions, a common language cannot be adopted by the various actors in the value chain (both up- and down-stream). Particularly, the characteristics of terms such as ‘resilience’ are mistakenly confused with those of ‘durability.’ Here, we review the literature from 2011 to date for determining clear definitions for both terms. A self-developed analysis framework was used for the systematic review of the literature, slightly adapting the methodology from an established process. The different levels (A, B, and C) of the framework reveal, in a structured manner, what a ‘durable’ or ‘resilient’ product is (at every stage of its lifecycle). We show that two dimensions should be considered for both concepts: ‘intrinsic’ (also referred to as ‘physical’ in the existing literature) and ‘extrinsic’ (often referred to as ‘emotional’). Most authors fail to acknowledge the existence of both terms or use them inconsistently. Consequently, a thorough assessment of product durability and resilience is lacking, as studies have focused solely on one of the two dimensions or on a single lifecycle stage (most often the design phase) of a product. Thus, beyond its original aim, our model analysis framework can also help evaluate the environmental impact of luxury fashion products at each stage of their lifecycle.
... Product lifetime is very important for consumers. A typical 100% cotton t-shirt provides serviceability for at least 20 washes [45]. Hence, the expectation of consumers is no less for smart textiles, especially due to their high price tag. ...
Abstract Test methods for smart or electronic textiles (e-textiles) are critical to ensure product safety and industrial quality control. This paper starts with a review of three key aspects: (i) commercial e-textile products/technologies, (ii) safety and quality control issues observed or foreseen, and (iii) relevant standards published or in preparation worldwide. A total of twenty-two standards on smart textiles – by CEN TC-248/WG-31, IEC TC-124, ASTM D13.50, and AATCC RA111 technical committees – were identified; they cover five categories of e-textile applications: electrical, thermal, mechanical, optical, and physical environment. Based on the number of e-textile products currently commercially available and issues in terms of safety, efficiency, and durability, there is a critical need for test methods for thermal applications, as well as to a lesser degree, for energy harvesting and chemical and biological applications. The results of this study can be used as a roadmap for the development of new standardized test methods for safety & quality control of smart textiles.
