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Mean heart rates for passive and active recoveries. Start is heart rate at the beginning of the recovery period. Transition indicates heart rate at the end of the two minute active/passive recovery. End refers to the heart rate at the end of the complete recovery period including refocusing phase.

Mean heart rates for passive and active recoveries. Start is heart rate at the beginning of the recovery period. Transition indicates heart rate at the end of the two minute active/passive recovery. End refers to the heart rate at the end of the complete recovery period including refocusing phase.

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The performance advantage of active rather than passive recovery during subsequent trials for repeated high intensity short-term exercise is well documented. Research findings suggest that shorter periods of active recovery, than traditionally employed, can be prescribed and still retain performance benefits over passive recoveries in successive ex...

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... significant difference was found between the two conditions at the point of transition (t (9) = 3.25, p = 0.01), however, by the end of the refocusing phase there was no significant difference between the conditions. The nature of this difference in the recovery mechanisms can be seen in Figure 4 where differences in heart rate between the conditions are evident at the transition point of the recovery. ...

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... However, various physiological and psychological variables may affect the final impact of AR on subsequent performance (11). Physiologically, AR facilitates metabolite removal, increases heart rate, and enhances blood flow to actively working muscles, possibly delaying the onset of subsequence fatigue (12)(13)(14). The degree of recovery depends on the type and degree of fatigue (11), AR intensity (15,16), duration (17), and the form of AR (18,19). ...
... While research has shown a superior effect of AR over passive recovery for exhaustive forearm exercise (12,13,23), it is unclear whether engaging the same muscle groups during AR involved in forearm performance may facilitate recovery. Engaging the same muscle groups in AR may increase localized blood flow and facilitate metabolic removal (24), but it may not allow for sufficient restoration of glycogen stores required for subsequent performance (25,26). ...
... Sport emphasizing upper limb strength and endurance mostly analyzed in the existing recovery literature has been sport climbing (12,13,18,23). Very few other studies primarily focusing on upper limb muscles have examined the effect of AR on performance (27, 28). ...
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Introduction Active recovery (AR) is used during exercise training; however, it is unclear whether the AR should involve the whole body, only the upper extremities, or only the lower extremities when aiming to maintain localized upper body performance. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the impact of different AR strategies on repeated intermittent finger flexor performance leading to exhaustion. Methods A crossover trial involving a familiarization session and three laboratory visits, each including three exhaustive intermittent isometric tests at 60% of finger flexor maximal voluntary contraction separated by 22 min of randomly assigned AR: walking, intermittent hanging, and climbing. Results The impulse (Nꞏs) significantly decreased from the first to third trials after walking (−18.4%, P = 0.002, d = 0.78), climbing (−29.5%, P < 0.001, d = 1.48), and hanging (−27.2%, P < 0.001, d = 1.22). In the third trial, the impulse from the intermittent test was significantly higher after walking (21,253 ± 5,650 Nꞏs) than after hanging (18,618 ± 5,174 Nꞏs, P = 0.013, d = 0.49) and after climbing (18,508 ± 4,435 Nꞏs, P = 0.009, d = 0.54). Conclusions The results show that easy climbing or intermittent isolated forearm contractions should not be used as AR strategies to maintain subsequent performance in comparison to walking, indicating that using the same muscle group for AR should be avoided between exhaustive isometric contractions.
... On the physiological level, it has been argued that active recovery improves performance by higher lactate clearance due to increased muscular blood flow following bouts of high-intensity exercise (Draper et al., 2006;Gervasi et al., 2023;Nalbandian et al., 2017). However, this seems to apply only for longer pause durations of >3 min (Buchheit & Laursen, 2013;Ortiz et al., 2019), whereas short breaks of about 15-20 s benefit from passive recovery as shown for repetitive sprinting or change of direction in sports (Dupont et al., 2004;Madueno et al., 2018). ...
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Active breaks are suggested to support recovery and performance in sports. Previous research in ball and team sports focused on motor performance such as repetitive sprinting or change of direction. This does not account for the interaction between motor and cognitive task demands in sports. Therefore, this study is the first to investigate the effectiveness of an active motor‐cognitive break to support reactive agility performance. Twenty (7 female and 13 male) healthy trained young adults (mean age: 26 years) performed an active or passive 5 min break following a fatiguing protocol of six 100 m reactive agility runs with an intermittent break of 40 s. Prior to the experiment (pre), after fatigue (post), and following the rest condition (retention), a reactive agility test was performed using the SKILLCOURT technology. In addition, lactate, heartrate, and physical exertion were recorded. Active rest contained two motor‐cognitive training tasks on the SKILLCOURT combining low to moderate physical intensity with conflict inhibition and decision‐making. During passive rest, participants remained seated. When comparing post and retention agility tests, results indicate significantly stronger performance gains following the active when compared to the passive break condition (p = 0.02 and ηp² = 0.24). This was not associated with any differences in physiological parameters such as lactate, heart rate, or RPE (p ≥ 0.25). The results suggest that active motor‐cognitive breaks support recovery and improve sport‐related reactive agility performance. Performance gains in the active break are likely attributable to cognitive performance effects rather than physiological recovery, which may benefit athletes especially in ball and team sports.
... Moreover, active recovery offers psychological advantages, enabling athletes to unwind and concentrate without excessive physical strain, all while preserving their fitness levels. [7] Figure 1 illustrates the concentrations of capillary blood lactate during both passive and active recovery phases. Additionally, Table 2 presents the ratings of perceived exertion (RPE) recorded immediately following the five climbing intervals. ...
... Capillary blood lactate concentrations for passive and active recoveries (mean ± SD).[7]. ...
... RPE scores immediately post the five periods of climbing. Data are means (±SD)[7] ...
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Young athletes are often at risk of physical fatigue and injury during intense competition and training, making post-competition rehabilitation particularly important. Effective rehabilitation not only helps them regain strength and reduce the likelihood of injury, but also improves overall athletic performance. Science-based post-competition rehabilitation can help young-athletes maintain good physical condition, extend their athletic careers, and enhance their academic and athletic performance. This paper analyzes the effectiveness of post-competition recovery strategies in improving the athletic performance of young athletes, focusing on physiological, physical, and psychological recovery methods. It emphasizes the importance of proper nutrition and rest for physiological recovery, highlighting their role in muscle repair and energy replenishment. Physical recovery strategies such as stretching, massage, and low-intensity activities were examined to understand the benefits of these strategies in relieving muscle tension and improving flexibility. The study also explored mental recovery techniques, including relaxation exercises and psychological support, to understand their impact on stress management and mental resilience. This research highlights the significance of employing a multifaceted approach to recovery techniques in order to enhance overall performance. By adopting efficient recovery protocols, athletes are able to attain superior recovery outcomes, boost their competitive advantage, and potentially prolong their athletic careers. The manuscript advocates for additional investigations to fine-tune these strategies and assess their long-term advantages for sustained athletic success.
... The constellation of the boulders and rotation procedure prevented participants from observing other climbers' performances. Following each boulder, participants' perceived exertion was assessed, and blood lactate samples were taken, similar to Draper et al. (2006) and La Torre et al. (2009), after a 2-min recovery period. ...
... Given that fatigue following climbing a boulder can negatively impact subsequent bouldering performance (Medernach et al., 2016), participants' perceived exertion was assessed following each boulder using Borg's rating of perceived exertion scale (Borg, 1982). Likewise, lactate levels following climbing can be indicative of local muscular fatigue (Draper et al., 2006). Therefore, after a 2-min recovery period following the climbing period at each boulder, 10 μL of capillary blood was collected from the hyperemic earlobe using a nonalcoholic cellulose swab. ...
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Bouldering is an Olympic discipline that encompasses a series of short climbing sequences on low-height structures called boulders. Strategic planning is paramount in competitive bouldering to both identify suitable climbing strategies before climbing and adapt climbing strategies after failed attempts. The ability to identify suitable climbing strategies depends upon an extensive climbing movement repertoire, conceptualized as high-level knowledge structures stored in long-term memory. This study aimed at examining strategic planning in the context of a bouldering competition to gain further insight into mechanisms underlying strategy proficiency in Olympic bouldering. Thirty male competitors in the semifinals at a national bouldering championship voluntarily participated in the study. A series of climbing-related performance and strategic planning parameters were examined, including suitability of competitors’ climbing strategies, adjustments they made to their initial strategies, and their climbing movement repertoire. Linear regressions revealed significant relations between climbers’ bouldering performance (number of completed boulders and failed climbing attempts) and their climbing strategy suitability, their strategy adjustments following their first attempts at the boulders, and their climbing movement repertoire. Findings underpin previous research revealing that mastering competitive bouldering is associated with climbers’ ability to develop appropriate climbing strategies relative to the climbing movements of boulders. Findings furthermore reinforce the movement repertoire paradigm, as climbers who exhibited better bouldering performances were characterized by a superior climbing movement repertoire, enabling them to quickly interpret visual sensory input and identify meaningful climbing movement patterns during boulder previewing.
... Directly after each training intervention, participants rated their subjective perceived total training exertion on the Borg 6-20 RPE scale [51] to enable a comparison between the perceived exertion of the training sessions for the NMES and control groups. The scale is commonly used in climbing studies [52][53][54] and has proven to be a good indicator of the physiological demands of advanced climbers [55]. The use of the two different Borg scales is due to the participants' familiarity with indicating intensities using the CR-10 Borg scale and assessing total effort after a workout with the Borg 6-20 scale during regular training. ...
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Competitive climbers engage in highly structured training regimens to achieve peak performance levels, with efficient time management as a critical aspect. Neuromuscular electrical stimulation (NMES) training can close the gap between time-efficient conditioning training and achieving optimal prerequisites for peak climbing-specific performances. Therefore, we examined potential neuromuscular adaptations resulting from the NMFES intervention by analyzing the efficacy of twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard (hang board) training compared with thrice-weekly conventional fingerboard training over 7 training weeks in enhancing climbing-specific endurance among intermediate to advanced climbers. Participants were randomly divided into the NMES and control groups. Eighteen participants completed the study (14 male, 4 female; mean age: 25.7 ± 5.3 years; mean climbing experience: 6.4 ± 3.4 years). Endurance was assessed by measuring the maximal time athletes could support their body weight (hanging to exhaustion) on a 20 mm-deep ledge at three intervals: pre-, in-between-(after 4 weeks of training), and post-training (after 7 weeks of training). The findings revealed that despite the lower training volume in the NMES group, no significant differences were observed between the NMES and control groups in climbing-specific endurance. Both groups exhibited notable improvements in endurance, particularly after the in-between test. Consequently, a twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard training regimen demonstrated non-inferiority to a thrice-weekly conventional training routine. Incorporating NMES into fingerboard workouts could offer time-saving benefits.
... AR for BL removal is less important for those who do not perform another activity within 90 minutes, as BL is usually cleared within 20 to 120 minutes regardless of post-exercise activity. 19 Despite the abundance of studies in sports science literature 2,3,6,12,14,16,20 focusing on blood lactate (BL) clearance during activities involving multiple bouts, and the increasing number of published research 17,21 examining BL and heart rate (HR) responses in dance, there is still a relative lack of research investigating recovery strategies such as active/passive recovery to facilitate BL clearance and HR responses specifically within the context of dance. ...
... We kept the protocol simple to reduce a learning effect and instead maintain focus on the physiological test elements rather than teaching skills. 20 Verbal cues were provided to the participants if necessary, but were kept to a minimum. ...
Article
Introduction: Dance is physically demanding and results in blood lactate (BL) accumulation and elevated Heart Rate (HR). Researchers recommend using either Active Recovery (AR; eg, low-to-moderate intensity-exercise) or Passive Recovery (PR; eg, complete rest) modes after activity. We compared BL and HR responses between AR or PR over a 15-minute recovery period following a Kathak dance. Methods: Twelve female dancers (31.0 ± 6.0 years; 161.5 ± 4.9 cm; 55.5 ± 5.8 kg) performed 2 dance testing sessions (Day 1 = AR, Day 2 = PR) 48 hours apart. Each session started with a 10-minute warm up followed by dancers performing four 2-minute stages of Kathak dance, with three 1-minute periods between stages where we recorded HR and their Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE:scale = 6-20) to match the intensity of both sessions. Post-dance, we recorded dancers’ BL and HR at 1, 3, 5, 10, and 15 minutes while they recovered via AR or PR. Separate 2(mode) × (time) Repeated-Measures-ANOVA followed by simple-main-effects testing and adjusted Bonferroni-pairwise-comparisons examined differences in BL and HR responses across modes and time(α = .05). Results: Dancers’ HR and RPE were similar across sessions. No mode × time interaction existed in BL ( F 4,8 = 3.6, P = .06). BL levels were similar across modes ( F 1,2 = 0.5, P = .5). BL levels reduced over time ( F 4,8 = 6.0, P = .02), but Bonferroni-comparisons did not reveal any pairwise differences. In HR a significant mode*time interaction ( F 4,36 = 11.0, P = .01, η ² = .55) was observed. Both Active and Passive recovery modes achieved absolute HR levels by 15 minutes, with PR mode stabilizing within 5 minutes. Conclusions: Over a 15-minute recovery period after Kathak dance, dancers’ BL and HR responses were similar across time in both AR and PR, with HR being higher in AR. Dancers’ HR remained similar from 1 to 3 minute post dance recovery and then dropped over time. Thus, dancers can rest up to 3 minutes and still maintain the same elevated HR. Overall, dancers can choose either AR or PR as their recovery mode based on their individual preferences.
... (Andrade et al., 2007). It has been previously used in climbing research studies (Aras & Akalan, 2014;Aras & Ewert, 2016;Draper et al., 2006Draper et al., , 2012Fryer et al., 2012;Hodgson et al., 2009;Limonta et al., 2020;Pijpers et al., 2005;Sanchez et al., 2010). ...
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The main purpose of this study was to determine the effect of a psychological training intervention based on emotional regulation on anxiety and climbing ability in women climbers with fear of falling. A secondary aim was to compare the outcomes of climbing ability, anxiety, self-confidence and inter-oceptive awareness (IA) between the psychological group (PG), a training (TG) and a control group. Self-reported climbing ability, anxiety and IA were assessed using Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2 and the Multidimensional Assessment of Interoceptive Awareness questionnaire. Results indicated a significant improvement in climbing ability for both PG and TG. The PG showed a significant reduction in cognitive and somatic anxiety, while the TG only exhibited a reduction in cognitive anxiety. Moreover, the PG demonstrated a greater significant increase in self-confidence compared to the TG. IA improved in five subscales for the PG, whereas the TG changed in only two subscales. In conclusion, a psychological training intervention focusing on emotional regulation might contribute to improvements in IA, reduced anxiety levels, and enhancements in climbing ability and self-confidence among women climbers facing fear of falling. ARTICLE HISTORY
... [La] was measured from earlobe capillary blood at the end of each sprint (M1, M2, and M3) and recovery phase (R1, R2, and R3) by using "Lactate Plus" analyzer (Nova-Biomedical). In addition, rate of perceived exertion (RPE) was assessed at the end of each heat using a Borg scale (6)(7)(8)(9)(10)(11)(12)(13)(14)(15)(16)(17)(18)(19)(20), and HR was monitored by telemetry (t6, Suunto) at 1 Hz during exercise and recovery phases. ...
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Purpose: To optimize the recovery phase between heats in ski-mountaineering sprint competitions, this study investigated whether an active recovery protocol on an ergocycle could improve subsequent performance compared with a self-selected recovery strategy. Methods: Thirteen elite ski mountaineers (9 men and 4 women) performed 3 sprints with 2 different recovery conditions (Ergo vs Free) in a randomized order. The Ergo condition involved a 10-minute constant-intensity exercise on an ergocycle performed at 70% of maximum heart rate. For the Free condition, the athlete was asked to self-select modality. At the end of the third sprint, a passive recovery (seated) was prescribed for both protocols. Sprint performance (time) and physiological parameters (lactate concentration [La], heart rate [HR], and rating of perceived exertion [RPE]) were recorded from each sprint and recovery phase. Results: In the Ergo vs Free protocols, sprint times (177 [24] s vs 176 [23] s; P = .63), recovery average HR (70% [2.9%] vs 71% [5.2%] of maximal HR), and RPE (16.7 [1.5] vs 16.8 [1.5]; P = .81) were not significantly different. However, [La] decreased more after Ergo (-2.9 [1.8] mmol·L-1) and Free (-2.8 [1.8] mmol·L-1) conditions compared with passive recovery (-1.1 [1.6] mmol·L-1; P < .05). Conclusions: The use of an ergocycle between heat sprints in ski mountaineering does not provide additional benefits compared with a recovery strategy freely chosen by the athletes. However, active conditions provide a faster [La] reduction compared with passive recovery and seem to be a more suitable strategy between multiple-heat sprints.
... Serum BUN, LDH, LAC, and AST levels and grip strength reflected the degree of body fatigue. Among them, LAC and BUN reflected the degree of physical and CF (Sorichter et al., 1999;Draper et al., 2006;Han et al., 2018b), LDH indicated the state of muscle function (Coqueiro et al., 2018), and an elevated AST reflected exercise fatigue (Luo et al., 2019). We found that serum AST, BUN, LAC, and LDH levels in rats with CF increased and grip strength decreased, suggesting the existence of central and physical fatigue. ...
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Background: Central fatigue (CF) is a subjective sense of tiredness associated with cognitive and memory disorders, accompanied by reduced physical endurance and negative emotions, such as anxiety and depression. Disease progression and prognosis with regards to CF have been unfavorable and possibly contribute to dementia, schizophrenia, and other diseases. Additionally, effective treatments for CF are lacking. KangPiLao decoction (KPLD) has been widely applied in clinical treatment and is composed of six Chinese herbal medicines, some of which have confirmed anti-fatigue effects. While glutamic acid (Glu) is the main excitatory transmitter in the central nervous system (CNS), gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) is the major inhibitory transmitter. Both are involved in emotional, cognitive, and memory functions. This research was designed to explore how KPLD regulates cognitive and emotional disorders in rats with CF and to identify the relationship between the regulatory effect and the GABA/Glu pathway. Methods: The compounds comprising KPLD were analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Sixty Wistar rats were randomly divided into six groups. The modified multiple platform method was used to induce CF. Cognitive, emotional, and fatigue states were evaluated by performing behavioral tests (Morris water maze [MWM], open-field test [OFT], and grip strength test). Histomorphology, western blotting, immunohistochemistry, and RT-qPCR were performed to investigate protein and mRNA expression levels in the hippocampus and prefrontal cortexes involved in the GABA/Glu pathway. Results: Rats with CF exhibited impaired spatial cognition and increased negative emotions in the MWM and OFT. KPLD enabled the improvement of these symptoms, especially in the high-concentration group. Western blotting and RT-qPCR demonstrated that the expression of GABAARα1, GABAARγ2, GABABR1, and GAD67 in rats with CF was higher, whereas GAT-1 and NMDAR2B were lower in the hippocampus and prefrontal cortex. KPLD decreased the expression of GABAARα1, GABABR1, GABAARγ2, and GAD67 in the hippocampus and prefrontal cortex and enhanced the expression of NR2B in the prefrontal cortex. Conclusion: KPLD significantly improved cognitive and emotional disorders in rats with CF by regulating the GABA/Glu pathway. Overall, KPLD may be a promising candidate for developing a drug for treating CF.
... Although forearm girth has not been measured, lactate has been used to measure fatigue in the peripheral muscles, mainly the forearms and upper body (3). A previous study looked at the effects of passive versus active recovery on lactate, and it was found that due to the increase in heart rate during active recovery, blood flow increases to the working muscles and is believed to enhance the removal of lactic acid (5). The mechanism behind forearm girth increasing during rock climbing can be attributed to the repeated isometric contractions of the forearm, which may result in a reduction in blood flow and increased swelling of the forearm. ...
Article
Indoor sport rock climbing has been increasing in popularity both recreationally and competitively. Despite this increase in popularity, the physiological responses to sport climbing as an exercise to specific muscle groups are not well defined. The purpose of this study was to quantify the change in handgrip strength over a 30-minute bout of continuous climbing, specifically in intermediate-level sport climbers. Ten intermediate rock climbers (age = 27 ± 2 years; climbing experience: 7.3 ± 1.5 years) completed baseline handgrip strength and forearm girth measurements. Each participant ascended one of two 5.9 difficulty routes as many times as possible in 30 minutes. After each ascent, heart rate was obtained, and handgrip strength and forearm girth were measured. Data were analyzed using repeated-measures ANOVA with significance set at α < 0.05. Dominant arm handgrip strength decreased by 22%, and non-dominant handgrip strength reduced by 23%. Dominant and non-dominant forearm girth increased by 4.5% and 4.4%, respectively. Weak but significant negative correlations were observed between handgrip strength and forearm girth in dominant (r = -0.311, p = 0.001) and non-dominant limbs (r = -.491, p = 0.001). These results indicate a relationship between increased forearm girth and decreases in muscular strength. Since handgrip strength decreases substantially during a 30-min climb in intermediate rock climbers, this population would be advised to carefully monitor recovery time between bouts.