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![Formal menswear fashion history (1666-2012) [46]](profile/Galaad-Preau/publication/344228898/figure/fig10/AS:935363614871555@1600019472636/Formal-menswear-fashion-history-1666-2012-46.png)
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This paper is made of 4 chapters - 2 chapters of context and 2 of analysis - aimed at answering the following question: « Can the fashion industry become sustainable, while remaining globalized? »:
1. The first chapter provides a data-driven, historical perspective on the global fashion industry, from its first industrialization in the 19th centur...
Citations
Microplastic (MPL) abundance is a well-elucidated problem in the marine environment but not so much in the terrestrial environment. In order to contribute to this research gap, a field study was performed in the Yadkin-Pee Dee River Basin. Due to their heterogenous nature and difficulty in characterization, a diverse set of pictorial training data from µ-Raman was used to perform transfer learning on 2 CNNs of interest: GoogLeNet (GN) and ResNet-18 (RN). In the first trial, using 10% of the initial training dataset, the CNNs exhibited high levels of accuracy rates, generally above 90%. Irrespective of spectroscopic mode, marginal improvements in accuracy rates were seen, with the best improvements occurring in the Raman-based models (U[GN(FTIR), RN(Raman), GN(FTIR), and RN(Raman)]: 39, 42, 38.5, and 34.5; p-value: 1, .6753, .9719, and .4978). However, for the external trial, pictorial data from Primpke (FTIR) and DongMiller (Raman) was predicted less accurately, with the largest loss occurring across the following sets: U[GN(Raman) and RN(FTIR)], 45.5 and 35; p-value:, .3268 and .5476. However, set RN fared marginally better, and due to the usage of µ-Raman, and its performance in the 10% trial, RN18_ADAM_.0011 was selected as the champion model for the field study data. In the unknown microparticle (MP) trial, generally, the most ID’d polymer type was CA, PET, and PE representing a relative concentration range for a given water source and area (MPL/MP) of 4.17–37.5%, 4.17–8.33%, and 4.17–8.33% for CNN and OpenSpecy (OS). A FEDS algorithm, equipped with natural and synthetic polymer standards and biological material, used to compare the strength of each model determined similar frequency in ascertaining positive MPL results across both models with corroboration between the CNN and OS around 1/3 of the time. Results indicate the models detect MPLs with similar frequency elucidating comparable strength of the CNN as well as a focus on particle type distribution rather than individual identification. Moreover, the largest influential factor in this study appears to be either laundry wastewater effluent or atmospheric deposition, which is stressed as a primary focus of remediating MPLs in similar freshwater environments. Lastly, it appears that these MPL are of primary origin as opposed to secondary in the oceanic and coastal environments.
W dzisiejszym społeczeństwie moda przekracza konwencjonalne funkcje, stając się nie tylko formą ochrony przed niekorzystnymi warunkami atmosferycznymi, ale także wyrazem indywidualnej ekspresji. Koncepcja fast fashion, odnosząca się do masowej produkcji niskiej jakości odzieży utrzymującej niskie ceny, wykształciła się w kontekście zmieniających się preferencji konsumentów oraz optymalizacji procesów logistycznych. Wzrost świadomości społecznej, szczególnie w krajach wysoce rozwiniętych, na temat negatywnych konsekwencji generowanych przez fast fashion, w tym nadmierną produkcję odpadów, prowadzi do zmiany perspektywy na tę branżę. Celem niniejszej pracy jest zrozumienie wpływu świadomości na temat fast fashion na decyzje zakupowe konsumentów. Badanie skupia się na ocenie, w jaki sposób rozwijająca się świadomość oraz dostęp do informacji wpływają na wybory konsumenckie w dziedzinie mody. Przeanalizowane zostało, czy konsumenci coraz bardziej zwracają uwagę na cele zrównoważonego rozwoju, etyczną produkcję i trwały styl życia, czy też kontynuują egoistyczne podejście do zakupów, pomijając te aspekty.
The textile sector is one of the most environmentally harmful industries in the world. From 1974-2004, trade in textiles was subject to quota-based restrictions that effectively limited global apparel production. Since these quotas were phased out in the early 2000s, global clothing production has roughly doubled. Despite this, there is currently no literature – legal or otherwise – assessing the environmental impacts of such a major change in global trade policy. This paper shows how the textile quota phase-out has enabled the ‘fast fashion’ phenomenon, and exacerbated the environmental consequences that accompany it. In addition, it assesses the legal viability of reintroducing some form of textile quotas under current international trade law. Based on this analysis, it concludes that reforms in trade-related policy and jurisprudence are urgently needed and ultimately inevitable.
