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This paper is made of 4 chapters - 2 chapters of context and 2 of analysis - aimed at answering the following question: « Can the fashion industry become sustainable, while remaining globalized? »:
1. The first chapter provides a data-driven, historical perspective on the global fashion industry, from its first industrialization in the 19th centur...
Contexts in source publication
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... Figure 15: Personal expenditure and price index for apparel in the US [6] ...... 14 Figure 16: Import penetration for wearing apparel and dressing & dyeing of fur in selected OECD countries [17] ....................................................................................... 14 Figure 17: Import penetration for leather, leather products and footwear in selected OECD countries [17] .................................................................................................. 15 Figure 18:Main countries for EU clothing imports (2015) [19] .............................................. 15 Figure 19: Share of lower-income countries in apparel exports, in value [12] .. 16 Figure 20: Share of lower-income countries in footwear exports, in value [12] 16 Figure 21: Share of lower-income countries in home furnishing exports, in value ) [12] Figure 22: Share of lower-income countries in textiles, wearing apparel, leather and related products value added (2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014)(2015) [20] [21] ........................................................................ 17 Figure 23. Household clothing & footwear expenditure in USD PPP (2010)(2011) [22] [23] . ...
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... Figure 15: Personal expenditure and price index for apparel in the US [6] ...... 14 Figure 16: Import penetration for wearing apparel and dressing & dyeing of fur in selected OECD countries [17] ....................................................................................... 14 Figure 17: Import penetration for leather, leather products and footwear in selected OECD countries [17] .................................................................................................. 15 Figure 18:Main countries for EU clothing imports (2015) [19] .............................................. 15 Figure 19: Share of lower-income countries in apparel exports, in value [12] .. 16 Figure 20: Share of lower-income countries in footwear exports, in value [12] 16 Figure 21: Share of lower-income countries in home furnishing exports, in value ) [12] Figure 22: Share of lower-income countries in textiles, wearing apparel, leather and related products value added (2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014)(2015) [20] [21] ........................................................................ 17 Figure 23. Household clothing & footwear expenditure in USD PPP (2010)(2011) [22] [23] . ...
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... Figure 15: Personal expenditure and price index for apparel in the US [6] ...... 14 Figure 16: Import penetration for wearing apparel and dressing & dyeing of fur in selected OECD countries [17] ....................................................................................... 14 Figure 17: Import penetration for leather, leather products and footwear in selected OECD countries [17] .................................................................................................. 15 Figure 18:Main countries for EU clothing imports (2015) [19] .............................................. 15 Figure 19: Share of lower-income countries in apparel exports, in value [12] .. 16 Figure 20: Share of lower-income countries in footwear exports, in value [12] 16 Figure 21: Share of lower-income countries in home furnishing exports, in value ) [12] Figure 22: Share of lower-income countries in textiles, wearing apparel, leather and related products value added (2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014)(2015) [20] [21] ........................................................................ 17 Figure 23. Household clothing & footwear expenditure in USD PPP (2010)(2011) [22] [23] . ...
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... Figure 15: Personal expenditure and price index for apparel in the US [6] ...... 14 Figure 16: Import penetration for wearing apparel and dressing & dyeing of fur in selected OECD countries [17] ....................................................................................... 14 Figure 17: Import penetration for leather, leather products and footwear in selected OECD countries [17] .................................................................................................. 15 Figure 18:Main countries for EU clothing imports (2015) [19] .............................................. 15 Figure 19: Share of lower-income countries in apparel exports, in value [12] .. 16 Figure 20: Share of lower-income countries in footwear exports, in value [12] 16 Figure 21: Share of lower-income countries in home furnishing exports, in value ) [12] Figure 22: Share of lower-income countries in textiles, wearing apparel, leather and related products value added (2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014)(2015) [20] [21] ........................................................................ 17 Figure 23. Household clothing & footwear expenditure in USD PPP (2010)(2011) [22] [23] . ...
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... clothing & footwear expenditure in USD PPP (2010)(2011) [22] [23] . 18 Figure 24: Household clothing & footwear expenditure per capita in USD PPP versus population (2010)(2011) [22] [23] Figure 27: Top 10 textile and apparel importers worldwide, in current USD (2018) [24] ...... 21 Figure 28: Wages of world's top ten clothing exporters (2017)(2018) .................................. (2000)(2001)(2002)(2003)(2004)(2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014)(2015)(2016) [12] . Figure 30: Industrial gross output of textile and clothing industry in China, by regions (1987- 2011) [25] [26] Figure 32: US footwear imports for consumption per country, in % of total value (2014)(2015)(2016)(2017)(2018)) [29] Figure 33: Major events in the evolution of the apparel industry [30] ............... 25 Figure 34: Typical buying cost of a knitted t-shirt (2015) [31] ............................................... 26 Figure 35: Share of labor costs in a denim shirt made in Bangladesh versus made in the US (2013) [32] Figure 36: Price index of US textile and apparel imports [33] .......................... 27 Figure 37: Change in US apparel prices versus total consumer prices [16] [34] . ...
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... clothing & footwear expenditure in USD PPP (2010)(2011) [22] [23] . 18 Figure 24: Household clothing & footwear expenditure per capita in USD PPP versus population (2010)(2011) [22] [23] Figure 27: Top 10 textile and apparel importers worldwide, in current USD (2018) [24] ...... 21 Figure 28: Wages of world's top ten clothing exporters (2017)(2018) .................................. (2000)(2001)(2002)(2003)(2004)(2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014)(2015)(2016) [12] . Figure 30: Industrial gross output of textile and clothing industry in China, by regions (1987- 2011) [25] [26] Figure 32: US footwear imports for consumption per country, in % of total value (2014)(2015)(2016)(2017)(2018)) [29] Figure 33: Major events in the evolution of the apparel industry [30] ............... 25 Figure 34: Typical buying cost of a knitted t-shirt (2015) [31] ............................................... 26 Figure 35: Share of labor costs in a denim shirt made in Bangladesh versus made in the US (2013) [32] Figure 36: Price index of US textile and apparel imports [33] .......................... 27 Figure 37: Change in US apparel prices versus total consumer prices [16] [34] . ...
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... clothing & footwear expenditure in USD PPP (2010)(2011) [22] [23] . 18 Figure 24: Household clothing & footwear expenditure per capita in USD PPP versus population (2010)(2011) [22] [23] Figure 27: Top 10 textile and apparel importers worldwide, in current USD (2018) [24] ...... 21 Figure 28: Wages of world's top ten clothing exporters (2017)(2018) .................................. (2000)(2001)(2002)(2003)(2004)(2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014)(2015)(2016) [12] . Figure 30: Industrial gross output of textile and clothing industry in China, by regions (1987- 2011) [25] [26] Figure 32: US footwear imports for consumption per country, in % of total value (2014)(2015)(2016)(2017)(2018)) [29] Figure 33: Major events in the evolution of the apparel industry [30] ............... 25 Figure 34: Typical buying cost of a knitted t-shirt (2015) [31] ............................................... 26 Figure 35: Share of labor costs in a denim shirt made in Bangladesh versus made in the US (2013) [32] Figure 36: Price index of US textile and apparel imports [33] .......................... 27 Figure 37: Change in US apparel prices versus total consumer prices [16] [34] . ...
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... 113: Ranking of Inditex's suppliers' social compliance based on their seniority [41] . 88 Figure 114: Expected impact of Inditex's sustainability programs on its apparel supply chain, Figure 115: Projection of annual patent filings in textile innovation in 2019 (based on latest available data -2017) [104] Figure 116: Level of achievement necessary for 3 individual actions, all else being equal, to achieve 4 different industry-wide GHG emission reduction targets by 2030 (in %), assuming BAU growth vs 2016 [78] (2019) [136] ............................................. 92 Figure 118: Projection of Inditex's GHG emissions in 2025 based on current sustainability targets, all else being equal, assuming BAU growth ............................................................ 93 Figure 119: Inditex's estimated supply chain carbon footprint (2019) [41] ........................... 94 Figure 120: Use of hard coal and natural gas to power dyeing and finishing processes, and associated GHG emissions [78] Figure 122: Consumers' opinions on the sustainability of the supply chain of main fashion brands in 7 higher-income countries (2018) [70] ................................................................. 96 Figure 123: Impact of Inditex's lean project in participating factories [41] ............................ 97 Figure 124: Fabric consolidation and reduction of materials complexity [50] ....................... 97 Figure 125: Mapping of available options to make fashion more sustainable, based on their sustainability impacts and fast fashion brands' expected impact on profits .......................... 99 Table of Tables Table 1: Output, productivity and employment in US textile and apparel manufacturing industries [9] Table 2: Market share of US nonrubber footwear imports, in volume [23] ....... 23 Table 3: Changing industrial structure in East Asian economies: percentage shares in manufacturing value-added [99] In a more modern language, what Conrad is saying in this Shakespeare play is: men change clothes so often to follow fashion trends, that they do not even have time to wear them out. This quote will sound quite contemporaneous to many, except that now a part of the reality is also that fashion items get worn out so quickly that we keep changing them. ...
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... 113: Ranking of Inditex's suppliers' social compliance based on their seniority [41] . 88 Figure 114: Expected impact of Inditex's sustainability programs on its apparel supply chain, Figure 115: Projection of annual patent filings in textile innovation in 2019 (based on latest available data -2017) [104] Figure 116: Level of achievement necessary for 3 individual actions, all else being equal, to achieve 4 different industry-wide GHG emission reduction targets by 2030 (in %), assuming BAU growth vs 2016 [78] (2019) [136] ............................................. 92 Figure 118: Projection of Inditex's GHG emissions in 2025 based on current sustainability targets, all else being equal, assuming BAU growth ............................................................ 93 Figure 119: Inditex's estimated supply chain carbon footprint (2019) [41] ........................... 94 Figure 120: Use of hard coal and natural gas to power dyeing and finishing processes, and associated GHG emissions [78] Figure 122: Consumers' opinions on the sustainability of the supply chain of main fashion brands in 7 higher-income countries (2018) [70] ................................................................. 96 Figure 123: Impact of Inditex's lean project in participating factories [41] ............................ 97 Figure 124: Fabric consolidation and reduction of materials complexity [50] ....................... 97 Figure 125: Mapping of available options to make fashion more sustainable, based on their sustainability impacts and fast fashion brands' expected impact on profits .......................... 99 Table of Tables Table 1: Output, productivity and employment in US textile and apparel manufacturing industries [9] Table 2: Market share of US nonrubber footwear imports, in volume [23] ....... 23 Table 3: Changing industrial structure in East Asian economies: percentage shares in manufacturing value-added [99] In a more modern language, what Conrad is saying in this Shakespeare play is: men change clothes so often to follow fashion trends, that they do not even have time to wear them out. This quote will sound quite contemporaneous to many, except that now a part of the reality is also that fashion items get worn out so quickly that we keep changing them. ...
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... 113: Ranking of Inditex's suppliers' social compliance based on their seniority [41] . 88 Figure 114: Expected impact of Inditex's sustainability programs on its apparel supply chain, Figure 115: Projection of annual patent filings in textile innovation in 2019 (based on latest available data -2017) [104] Figure 116: Level of achievement necessary for 3 individual actions, all else being equal, to achieve 4 different industry-wide GHG emission reduction targets by 2030 (in %), assuming BAU growth vs 2016 [78] (2019) [136] ............................................. 92 Figure 118: Projection of Inditex's GHG emissions in 2025 based on current sustainability targets, all else being equal, assuming BAU growth ............................................................ 93 Figure 119: Inditex's estimated supply chain carbon footprint (2019) [41] ........................... 94 Figure 120: Use of hard coal and natural gas to power dyeing and finishing processes, and associated GHG emissions [78] Figure 122: Consumers' opinions on the sustainability of the supply chain of main fashion brands in 7 higher-income countries (2018) [70] ................................................................. 96 Figure 123: Impact of Inditex's lean project in participating factories [41] ............................ 97 Figure 124: Fabric consolidation and reduction of materials complexity [50] ....................... 97 Figure 125: Mapping of available options to make fashion more sustainable, based on their sustainability impacts and fast fashion brands' expected impact on profits .......................... 99 Table of Tables Table 1: Output, productivity and employment in US textile and apparel manufacturing industries [9] Table 2: Market share of US nonrubber footwear imports, in volume [23] ....... 23 Table 3: Changing industrial structure in East Asian economies: percentage shares in manufacturing value-added [99] In a more modern language, what Conrad is saying in this Shakespeare play is: men change clothes so often to follow fashion trends, that they do not even have time to wear them out. This quote will sound quite contemporaneous to many, except that now a part of the reality is also that fashion items get worn out so quickly that we keep changing them. ...
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... 113: Ranking of Inditex's suppliers' social compliance based on their seniority [41] . 88 Figure 114: Expected impact of Inditex's sustainability programs on its apparel supply chain, Figure 115: Projection of annual patent filings in textile innovation in 2019 (based on latest available data -2017) [104] Figure 116: Level of achievement necessary for 3 individual actions, all else being equal, to achieve 4 different industry-wide GHG emission reduction targets by 2030 (in %), assuming BAU growth vs 2016 [78] (2019) [136] ............................................. 92 Figure 118: Projection of Inditex's GHG emissions in 2025 based on current sustainability targets, all else being equal, assuming BAU growth ............................................................ 93 Figure 119: Inditex's estimated supply chain carbon footprint (2019) [41] ........................... 94 Figure 120: Use of hard coal and natural gas to power dyeing and finishing processes, and associated GHG emissions [78] Figure 122: Consumers' opinions on the sustainability of the supply chain of main fashion brands in 7 higher-income countries (2018) [70] ................................................................. 96 Figure 123: Impact of Inditex's lean project in participating factories [41] ............................ 97 Figure 124: Fabric consolidation and reduction of materials complexity [50] ....................... 97 Figure 125: Mapping of available options to make fashion more sustainable, based on their sustainability impacts and fast fashion brands' expected impact on profits .......................... 99 Table of Tables Table 1: Output, productivity and employment in US textile and apparel manufacturing industries [9] Table 2: Market share of US nonrubber footwear imports, in volume [23] ....... 23 Table 3: Changing industrial structure in East Asian economies: percentage shares in manufacturing value-added [99] In a more modern language, what Conrad is saying in this Shakespeare play is: men change clothes so often to follow fashion trends, that they do not even have time to wear them out. This quote will sound quite contemporaneous to many, except that now a part of the reality is also that fashion items get worn out so quickly that we keep changing them. ...
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... 113: Ranking of Inditex's suppliers' social compliance based on their seniority [41] . 88 Figure 114: Expected impact of Inditex's sustainability programs on its apparel supply chain, Figure 115: Projection of annual patent filings in textile innovation in 2019 (based on latest available data -2017) [104] Figure 116: Level of achievement necessary for 3 individual actions, all else being equal, to achieve 4 different industry-wide GHG emission reduction targets by 2030 (in %), assuming BAU growth vs 2016 [78] (2019) [136] ............................................. 92 Figure 118: Projection of Inditex's GHG emissions in 2025 based on current sustainability targets, all else being equal, assuming BAU growth ............................................................ 93 Figure 119: Inditex's estimated supply chain carbon footprint (2019) [41] ........................... 94 Figure 120: Use of hard coal and natural gas to power dyeing and finishing processes, and associated GHG emissions [78] Figure 122: Consumers' opinions on the sustainability of the supply chain of main fashion brands in 7 higher-income countries (2018) [70] ................................................................. 96 Figure 123: Impact of Inditex's lean project in participating factories [41] ............................ 97 Figure 124: Fabric consolidation and reduction of materials complexity [50] ....................... 97 Figure 125: Mapping of available options to make fashion more sustainable, based on their sustainability impacts and fast fashion brands' expected impact on profits .......................... 99 Table of Tables Table 1: Output, productivity and employment in US textile and apparel manufacturing industries [9] Table 2: Market share of US nonrubber footwear imports, in volume [23] ....... 23 Table 3: Changing industrial structure in East Asian economies: percentage shares in manufacturing value-added [99] In a more modern language, what Conrad is saying in this Shakespeare play is: men change clothes so often to follow fashion trends, that they do not even have time to wear them out. This quote will sound quite contemporaneous to many, except that now a part of the reality is also that fashion items get worn out so quickly that we keep changing them. ...
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... consider that the staggering share of lower-income countries in manufacturing (cf. Figure 22 and Figure 50) is enough to make this assumption. Finally, while the dictionary only mentions "clothes", the definition can be applied to all fashion items, including footwear and accessories (e.g. ...
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... countries whose name is displayed are the lower-income countries among the top 40 exporters in 2015 -the rest is in "other lower-income countries". Some missing data have Figure 21: Share of lower-income countries in home furnishing exports, in value 21 [12] If we go beyond trade and look at the overall textile manufacturing output in the world, including what is supplied by domestic industries to their domestic market, the trend has been very similar in recent years. As a result of growing import penetration from lower-income countries into higher-income countries, all the growth in value added in textile production from 2005 to 2015 has come from non-OECD countries, especially China. ...
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... the demand side, on the contrary, the weight of higher-income countries in PPP 23 consumption -which gives an estimate of volume consumption -was still broadly dominant in 2010-2011 (cf. Figure 23) -accounting for around two thirds of global consumption -due to a much higher consumption per capita (cf. Figure 24). Remark: Leather & related products include especially footwear. ...
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... the demand side, on the contrary, the weight of higher-income countries in PPP 23 consumption -which gives an estimate of volume consumption -was still broadly dominant in 2010-2011 (cf. Figure 23) -accounting for around two thirds of global consumption -due to a much higher consumption per capita (cf. Figure 24). Remark: Leather & related products include especially footwear. ...
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... though lower-income countries are supplying growing clothing & footwear volumes to their domestic markets, higher-income countries keep accounting for a major share of global consumption, with increasing imports year-by-year 26 (cf. Figure 27). The reality today is then quite close to that of 2010-2011, well depicted in the two cartograms of Figure 25 and Figure 26 -made respectively with the data from Figure 23 and Figure 22: the global textile, clothing and footwear industry is made of hyper-globalized supply chains, based mostly on production in lower-income countries (mainly China) for consumption in higher-income countries. ...
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... though lower-income countries are supplying growing clothing & footwear volumes to their domestic markets, higher-income countries keep accounting for a major share of global consumption, with increasing imports year-by-year 26 (cf. Figure 27). The reality today is then quite close to that of 2010-2011, well depicted in the two cartograms of Figure 25 and Figure 26 -made respectively with the data from Figure 23 and Figure 22: the global textile, clothing and footwear industry is made of hyper-globalized supply chains, based mostly on production in lower-income countries (mainly China) for consumption in higher-income countries. [24] What has made China the clear leader in fashion item manufacturing has mostly been its labor cost advantage, much lower than the Big Three's when it started to open its economy in the 1980s. ...
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... though lower-income countries are supplying growing clothing & footwear volumes to their domestic markets, higher-income countries keep accounting for a major share of global consumption, with increasing imports year-by-year 26 (cf. Figure 27). The reality today is then quite close to that of 2010-2011, well depicted in the two cartograms of Figure 25 and Figure 26 -made respectively with the data from Figure 23 and Figure 22: the global textile, clothing and footwear industry is made of hyper-globalized supply chains, based mostly on production in lower-income countries (mainly China) for consumption in higher-income countries. [24] What has made China the clear leader in fashion item manufacturing has mostly been its labor cost advantage, much lower than the Big Three's when it started to open its economy in the 1980s. ...
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... though lower-income countries are supplying growing clothing & footwear volumes to their domestic markets, higher-income countries keep accounting for a major share of global consumption, with increasing imports year-by-year 26 (cf. Figure 27). The reality today is then quite close to that of 2010-2011, well depicted in the two cartograms of Figure 25 and Figure 26 -made respectively with the data from Figure 23 and Figure 22: the global textile, clothing and footwear industry is made of hyper-globalized supply chains, based mostly on production in lower-income countries (mainly China) for consumption in higher-income countries. [24] What has made China the clear leader in fashion item manufacturing has mostly been its labor cost advantage, much lower than the Big Three's when it started to open its economy in the 1980s. ...
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... though lower-income countries are supplying growing clothing & footwear volumes to their domestic markets, higher-income countries keep accounting for a major share of global consumption, with increasing imports year-by-year 26 (cf. Figure 27). The reality today is then quite close to that of 2010-2011, well depicted in the two cartograms of Figure 25 and Figure 26 -made respectively with the data from Figure 23 and Figure 22: the global textile, clothing and footwear industry is made of hyper-globalized supply chains, based mostly on production in lower-income countries (mainly China) for consumption in higher-income countries. [24] What has made China the clear leader in fashion item manufacturing has mostly been its labor cost advantage, much lower than the Big Three's when it started to open its economy in the 1980s. ...
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... today, with China's wages on a continuous rise, a new shift is happening towards new countries offering cheaper labor costs (cf. Figure 28). Even though the country can play on its wide dimension to shift its production to poorer regions inland (cf. Figure 30), its market shares in leading apparel import markets has been decreasing since the beginning of the last decade (cf. Figure 29). ...
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... though the country can play on its wide dimension to shift its production to poorer regions inland (cf. Figure 30), its market shares in leading apparel import markets has been decreasing since the beginning of the last decade (cf. Figure 29). Remark: a lot of data is missing in Africa, but their size would not be much bigger -as evidenced by the hardly noticeable size of Ethiopia, added to the dataset. ...
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... Figure 32). [23] Figure 32: US footwear imports for consumption per country, in % of total value (2014)(2015)(2016)(2017)(2018) [29] Taking a step back to look at the history of fashion manufacturing, a new reality is thus shaping in the "Asian era" of Figure 33, with a gradual shift from China to lower-cost countries, such as India, Vietnam and Bangladesh. ...
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... fashion has managed, through manufacturing cost cutting, to disrupt the traditional fashion pyramid, offering more and more diversity and faster renewals at a cheaper price (cf. Figure 2) -which all started by transferring runway fashions into their cheap collections. Refinery29 sums up quite well the social change that happened then: "a century ago, you couldn't afford to wear the same clothes as the wealthy, successful people you ogled in newspapers or from the other side of the road. ...
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... taking a global perspective, models like Zara's account for a clear minority of all fashion item production. For apparel this appears quite well in Figure 22, and on the diagram of Figure 50, made from the author's estimates, based on many sources described in the next page, which tries to represent all the flows, in volume, produced and traded in global apparel supply chains, from fiber to disposal. The first thing that stands out is the weight of China, and the second thing the -much lower -weight of India. ...
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... smaller countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh rely more on fabric imports (cf. Figure 52) to deal with the growing demand for their cheap fashion item assembly, these volumes remain very low and they are quickly building up textile capabilities [58]. However, fashion supply chains remain very fragmented, as within a same country, a lot of SMEs are involved -either as direct suppliers to smaller brands or outsourcers for large brands -and a significant share of the work can be outsourced to the informal sector. ...
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... fast fashion supply chains, first of all, have many negative social consequences. Especially, as shown in Figure 28, workers' wages in countries such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, or even more nearshore countries like Turkey, are much lower than anything decent in higher-income countries. But the main problem with workers' wages is how they compare with the average wages in their respective countries. ...
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... water use is all the more critical as many fashion item manufacturing regions are exposed to high or extremely high water risks according to the WRI Aqueduct 2019 data (cf. Figure 72) -e.g. India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, China, Indonesia, Turkey, Mexico. ...
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... growth has especially been driven by relatively strong perhour labor productivity gains (cf. Figure 82), while the latter has remained very low in Bangladesh, Cambodia and Vietnam. And these countries' specialization in textiles and clothing is not helping in that respect: as shown on Figure 83, as a result of its high labor intensity, the productivity in the GTF sector (garment, textiles and footwear) is lower to much lower, in all countries, than that the overall manufacturing sector. ...
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... risks directly materialized in recent months, with the covid-19 pandemic that resulted in $1 trillion dollar losses globally for the industry, according to the ILO (cf. Figure 92). On the supply side, smaller low-cost fashion item manufacturing countries, with less resources, also often heavily rely on imports of textile fibers (cf. Figure 50), hence depend on their unpredictable prices. ...
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... terms of impact, these programs focus primarily on workers' rights and safety 55 (cf. Figure 112). In addition to these programs, the group conducts regular social audits (6,411 in 2019) or special audits (1,619 in 2019) to check its suppliers' compliance with its Code of Conduct, which includes criteria pertaining to the categories displayed further below (cf. Figure 121). ...
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... addition to these programs, the group conducts regular social audits (6,411 in 2019) or special audits (1,619 in 2019) to check its suppliers' compliance with its Code of Conduct, which includes criteria pertaining to the categories displayed further below (cf. Figure 121). As shown in Figure 113, it seems that Inditex's programs have a neutral to slightly positive impact, with older suppliers being a bit more compliant 56 . ...
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... 4 for the full requirements per label) will be produced with the minimum amount of sustainable material required, that all "Care for Planet" factories will opt for 40% of renewable electricityby far the easiest (cf. Figure 120) -and that products will be evenly split between the three Join Life labels, here is what the group's GHG emissions will look like in 2025 compared to 2019: , and the volume for other materials has been derived from it, based on Inditex's disclosed split in its annual report (50% natural fibers -assuming that 95% is cotton -38% synthetics -assuming that 95% is polyester -and 12% artificial -viscose). Their share in raw materials' overall emissions has then been derived from Figure 79, and their estimated reduction by 2025 is based on ADEME's Base Carbone for recycled cotton and polyester, on Texile Exchange's 2014 report for organic cotton (cf. ...
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... question of wages, especially, remains hard to tackle in today's highly competitive context. As shown on Figure 121, while Inditex, with its many programs, has a good performance on limiting abuses and protecting rights, there are still a lot of issues on hygiene, wages & working hours in its supply chain -especially in Asia and Europe outside the EU (mostly Turkey). Inditex's focus on health & safety is probably linked to its will to avoid scandals like the Rana Plaza, which has been the focus of many brands since then. ...
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... of this misleading communication, large numbers of customers believe in fast fashion brands' sustainability, while the latter are just starting their sustainability journey (cf. Figure 122). In that regard, sustainable and recycled materials can be quite a risk, as they can make customers believe that they can consume this type of fashion items with no limits -without considering all the other steps of their life cycle, especially the very use phase by consumers. ...
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... raise wages while driving economic profits, such projects as Inditex's "lean project", based on increasing workers' productivity, could also be a solution (cf. Figure 123). Other operational efficiencies can also relieve the burden put on workers, by lowering costs in other ways than unfair wages, such as reducing material complexity through fabric consolidation (cf. Figure 124). ...
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... operational efficiencies can also relieve the burden put on workers, by lowering costs in other ways than unfair wages, such as reducing material complexity through fabric consolidation (cf. Figure 124). On the environmental side as well, operational efficiencies such as fabric consolidation, which can reduce energy and material wastes, drive costs down at the same time. ...
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... constrained by their year-on-year growth requirements, none of them has been willing to take these risks at a significant scale for now. As shown on Figure 125, all the key enablers that could bring about significant change are in the unreachable area for fast fashion's profitability -see Appendix 5 to compare with the actions currently addressed by Inditex. ...
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... the end, all the economic obstacles to sustainability but stress the key role that institutions and governments have to play. The only way to reach the high-sustainability, negative-profit enablers of Figure 125 is to change the rules that make companies focus so much on their profits. Indeed, history has shown that market forces alone are not driving the industry in the right direction: brands are not taking the right steps and remain reluctant to communicate transparently on the true cost of their products, and customers are not showing enough signs of strong commitment. ...
Citations
Microplastic (MPL) abundance is a well-elucidated problem in the marine environment but not so much in the terrestrial environment. In order to contribute to this research gap, a field study was performed in the Yadkin-Pee Dee River Basin. Due to their heterogenous nature and difficulty in characterization, a diverse set of pictorial training data from µ-Raman was used to perform transfer learning on 2 CNNs of interest: GoogLeNet (GN) and ResNet-18 (RN). In the first trial, using 10% of the initial training dataset, the CNNs exhibited high levels of accuracy rates, generally above 90%. Irrespective of spectroscopic mode, marginal improvements in accuracy rates were seen, with the best improvements occurring in the Raman-based models (U[GN(FTIR), RN(Raman), GN(FTIR), and RN(Raman)]: 39, 42, 38.5, and 34.5; p-value: 1, .6753, .9719, and .4978). However, for the external trial, pictorial data from Primpke (FTIR) and DongMiller (Raman) was predicted less accurately, with the largest loss occurring across the following sets: U[GN(Raman) and RN(FTIR)], 45.5 and 35; p-value:, .3268 and .5476. However, set RN fared marginally better, and due to the usage of µ-Raman, and its performance in the 10% trial, RN18_ADAM_.0011 was selected as the champion model for the field study data. In the unknown microparticle (MP) trial, generally, the most ID’d polymer type was CA, PET, and PE representing a relative concentration range for a given water source and area (MPL/MP) of 4.17–37.5%, 4.17–8.33%, and 4.17–8.33% for CNN and OpenSpecy (OS). A FEDS algorithm, equipped with natural and synthetic polymer standards and biological material, used to compare the strength of each model determined similar frequency in ascertaining positive MPL results across both models with corroboration between the CNN and OS around 1/3 of the time. Results indicate the models detect MPLs with similar frequency elucidating comparable strength of the CNN as well as a focus on particle type distribution rather than individual identification. Moreover, the largest influential factor in this study appears to be either laundry wastewater effluent or atmospheric deposition, which is stressed as a primary focus of remediating MPLs in similar freshwater environments. Lastly, it appears that these MPL are of primary origin as opposed to secondary in the oceanic and coastal environments.
W dzisiejszym społeczeństwie moda przekracza konwencjonalne funkcje, stając się nie tylko formą ochrony przed niekorzystnymi warunkami atmosferycznymi, ale także wyrazem indywidualnej ekspresji. Koncepcja fast fashion, odnosząca się do masowej produkcji niskiej jakości odzieży utrzymującej niskie ceny, wykształciła się w kontekście zmieniających się preferencji konsumentów oraz optymalizacji procesów logistycznych. Wzrost świadomości społecznej, szczególnie w krajach wysoce rozwiniętych, na temat negatywnych konsekwencji generowanych przez fast fashion, w tym nadmierną produkcję odpadów, prowadzi do zmiany perspektywy na tę branżę. Celem niniejszej pracy jest zrozumienie wpływu świadomości na temat fast fashion na decyzje zakupowe konsumentów. Badanie skupia się na ocenie, w jaki sposób rozwijająca się świadomość oraz dostęp do informacji wpływają na wybory konsumenckie w dziedzinie mody. Przeanalizowane zostało, czy konsumenci coraz bardziej zwracają uwagę na cele zrównoważonego rozwoju, etyczną produkcję i trwały styl życia, czy też kontynuują egoistyczne podejście do zakupów, pomijając te aspekty.
The textile sector is one of the most environmentally harmful industries in the world. From 1974-2004, trade in textiles was subject to quota-based restrictions that effectively limited global apparel production. Since these quotas were phased out in the early 2000s, global clothing production has roughly doubled. Despite this, there is currently no literature – legal or otherwise – assessing the environmental impacts of such a major change in global trade policy. This paper shows how the textile quota phase-out has enabled the ‘fast fashion’ phenomenon, and exacerbated the environmental consequences that accompany it. In addition, it assesses the legal viability of reintroducing some form of textile quotas under current international trade law. Based on this analysis, it concludes that reforms in trade-related policy and jurisprudence are urgently needed and ultimately inevitable.
