Journal of cosmetic science (J COSMET SCI)

Publisher: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (U.S.)

Current impact factor: 0.28

Impact Factor Rankings

2015 Impact Factor Available summer 2016
2011 Impact Factor 0.277
2010 Impact Factor 0.215
2009 Impact Factor 0.392
2008 Impact Factor 0.365
2007 Impact Factor 0.283
2006 Impact Factor 0.248
2005 Impact Factor 0.295
2004 Impact Factor 0.395
2003 Impact Factor 0.195

Impact factor over time

Impact factor

Additional details

5-year impact 0.35
Cited half-life 7.70
Immediacy index 0.00
Eigenfactor 0.00
Article influence 0.07
Website Journal of Cosmetic Science website
Other titles Journal of cosmetic science
ISSN 1525-7886
OCLC 39348374
Material type Periodical
Document type Journal / Magazine / Newspaper

Publications in this journal

  • [Show abstract] [Hide abstract]
    ABSTRACT: Using well-tolerated cosmetics or those with soothing effects is recommended to treat sensitive skin. However, we lack clinical studies. Two clinical trials were performed on sensitive skin in France and Thailand. The primary objective was to evaluate the preventive soothing effect. The secondary objectives were to evaluate the immediate soothing effect, product tolerance, and impact on quality of life. Evaluation methods included a stinging test and scoring erythema and stinging intensity. We also assessed tolerance, quality of life using the Dermatology Life Quality Index, and cosmetic qualities. The clinical trials were performed in France and Thailand to test efficacy in two different environments and on different ethnic skin. Interesting effects were observed in patients with sensitive skin in France and Thailand: a preventive soothing effect, a soothing effect on erythema, and an immediate soothing effect. In vivo biometrological, sodium lauryl sulfate, and capsaicin tests confirmed these data. A favorable effect on quality of life was also noted. The product was appreciated by volunteers for its efficacy, tolerance, and cosmetic qualities. A preliminary study on the effects on interleukin 8 was also included in the paper.
    Journal of cosmetic science 10/2015; 66(2):79-86.
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    ABSTRACT: This report describes the development and validation of a reverse phase high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method with UV detection for the determination of the hormones estriol, estradiol, estrone, and progesterone in topically applied products. The developed method was then used to conduct a postmarket survey of consumer products for these hormones. Each product was first mixed with Celite and then extracted with methanol. Extracts were cleaned on a Waters Oasis HLB solid phase extraction cartridge, and then analyzed using reversed phase HPLC. The analytes were separated using an Agilent Zorbax Eclipse XDB C8 (5 μm, 250 mm by 4.6 mm) analytical column and detected by their absorbance at 230 nm. Chromatographic separation was achieved by a 1.0-ml/min linear gradient from 30% acetonitrile and 70% water to 80% acetonitrile and 20% water over 30 min. A final 5 min hold time and a re-equilibration time of 10 min were used to prepare the column for subsequent analysis. Recovery from two different brand lotions spiked with three different levels of estriol, estradiol, estrone, and progesterone ranged from 81.8% to 101%. In this study, a total of 70 cosmetic products were surveyed. Twenty two (63%) of the 35 products were labeled as containing an estrogen and/ or progesterone and also provided quantitative label information about the hormone ingredient. The most frequently labeled hormones were progesterone (66%), estriol (46%), estradiol (11%), and estrone (6%). Six products labeled as containing estriol were found to contain estradiol. An estrogen and/or progesterone were found in 34 products at concentrations ranging from 86.0 to 26,800 μg/g. Progesterone was not found in one product labeled as containing this hormone. An additional 35 products, which did not list hormones on their labels, were analyzed and estrogen or progesterone was not detected in these products.
    Journal of cosmetic science 10/2015; 66(2):113-28.
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    ABSTRACT: The objective of this work was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Gac (Momordica cochinchinensis) extract and to clinically evaluate a Gac-containing antiwrinkle cream formulation. Gac extract exhibited higher antioxidant activity than vitamin C or E, as measured by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH, 41.25 ± 0.34 mg TEAC/ml extract), 2, 2'-azinobis 3-ethylbenzothialine-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS, 47.70 ± 0.18 mg TEAC/ml extract), and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP, 105.03 ± 2.326 mg TEAC/ml extract) scavenging. The antioxidant activity of Gac extract was 5.85- and 11.75-fold higher than that of vitamin E in the DPPH and ABTS assays, respectively. The FRAP assay indicated that the antioxidant activity of Gac extract was 2.91-fold higher than that of vitamin C. Gac extract also exhibited high tyrosinase inhibition (62.83% ± 1.99%). The tyrosinase inhibition activity of Gac extract was 1.51- and 2.06-fold greater than that of vitamins C and E, respectively. The safety and efficacy of the formulated Gac extract cream as an antiwrinkle agent and its promotion of skin moisturization and smoothness were investigated. Evaluation of acute skin tolerance indicated nonirritating properties. A clinical study revealed increases in cutaneous hydration. Average roughness was decreased, while smoothness was increased. Skin overlook analysis indicated skin roughness relief. These results indicate that the formulated Gac extract product is an effective antiwrinkle cream.
    Journal of cosmetic science 10/2015; 66(3):175-87.
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    ABSTRACT: o-Phenylphenol (OPP) in skin lotion was quantitated by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with fluorescence detection after pre-column derivatization with 4-(N-chloroformylmethyl-N-methylamino)-7-nitro-2,1,3-benzoxadiazole (NBD-COCl) in borate buffer (pH 8.5) at room temperature for 2 min. The column [150 mm x 3.0 mm internal diameter (i.d.)], which contained 5 μm particles of C18 packing material, was eluted at room temperature (flow rate: 0.5 ml/min) with mobile phase prepared by addition of acetonitrile (550 ml) to 450 ml of Milli-Q water containing trifluoroacetic acid (0.1 v/v%). 2-Hydroxyfluorene was used as an internal standard. The retention times of NBD-CO-OPP and NBD-CO-IS derivatives were 16.2 and 22.2 min, respectively. The calibration plot was linear in the range of 0.01-0.2 μg/ml with an r2 value of 0.9960, and the lower limit of detection was 0.003 μg/ml (at a signal-to-noise ratio of 3:1; absolute amount of 12 pg/20 μl injection). The coefficient of variation was less than 8.8%. Contents of OPP in three skin lotions were determined with the present system, and the recovery from spiked samples was satisfactory.
    Journal of cosmetic science 10/2015; 66(2):129-37.
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    ABSTRACT: Sun protection factor, SPF, is a measure of the efficacy of a topical sunscreen product; the higher the SPF, the greater the blockage of ultraviolet-induced erythema. While there are several methods to determine SPF, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) methods are unique. The FDA methods define the label SPF value as the largest whole integer after subtracting an "A" value from the mean SPF. The A value, composed of the product of the upper 5% point of the t-distribution and the standard deviation (SD), divided by √(n), where n equals the number of subjects, has a significant impact on the label SPF value. Two examples explore this impact. Development of strategies to mitigate the impact of A using expected SPF values are explored using historical clinical trial data. A more enlightened choice of expected SPF values is shown to lead to higher label SPF values.
    Journal of cosmetic science 10/2015; 66(2):87-93.

  • Journal of cosmetic science 10/2015; 66(3):207-10.
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    ABSTRACT: In this study, the radiance contribution from formulating various pearlescent effect pigments into a skin cream was modeled using gloss map histograms created from digital photographs of clinical panelists. CIELab color data from the various pearlescent effect pigments applied to simulated skin tone drawdown cards was first collected to screen experimental candidates and to help select the concentration of pigment used in the formula. Optical microscopy was used to develop a simple coverage model to control for the differences in particle size and density of the effect pigments. In the subsequent in vivo study, panelists applied a weighed amount of cream containing various pearlescent effect pigments to the face and high-resolution digital photography images were collected on each panelist for image analysis. Gloss map histograms were developed through the software analysis of gray-scale images, which were used to describe the gloss, whiteness, and/or radiance contribution of each pearlescent effect pigment. The resulting gloss map histograms shared identifiable characteristics useful for statistical analysis and description. This methodology could serve as a novel way to investigate and describe the visual impact and benefit of formulating effect pigments in cosmetic creams intended for application on the skin.
    Journal of cosmetic science 10/2015; 66(3):189-205.
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    ABSTRACT: Do eyeliner, mascara, and eye shadow actually make the eyes appear larger than they really are? If so, by what percentage? To answer these questions, we used psychophysical experiments. Experiment 1 manipulated the degree of eyeliner (four levels) and mascara (five levels), and measured perceived eye size using a psychophysical procedure called the staircase method. The results showed that both eyeliner and mascara make the eyes appear larger than they really are by up to 6% (13% in area), but their effects are not additive. Eyeliner increased perceived eye size only in the absence of mascara. In the presence of mascara, however, eyeliner has no additional effect. Experiment 2 measured perceived eye size with or without eye shadow and demonstrated that eye shadow increases perceived eye size by about 5% (10% in area). These findings indicate that one mechanism by which makeup and cosmetics alter facial appearances involves inducing visual illusions. In addition, it is suggested that the eye size illusion caused by eyeliner, mascara, and eye shadow uses the same mechanism as that of the Delboeuf illusion, a geometric illusion of assimilation.
    Journal of cosmetic science 10/2015; 66(3):161-74.
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    ABSTRACT: Synopsis Botanical antioxidants have attracted much attention as useful preventatives of skin damage. Pomegranate is consumed throughout the world for its beneficial health effects, including its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. We investigated whether pomegranate concentrated solution (PCS) could serve as a potential functional cosmetic ingredient that exerts a skin-whitening effect and antiwrinkle activity. To investigate the moisturizing effect of PCS, hyaluronidase activity was examined in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). Elastase and procollagenase activities were assessed in normal human primary dermal fibroblast-neonatal (HDF-N) cells to determine their antiwrinkle effects. Metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) activity was also assessed following ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation. Whitening effects were measured by a tyrosinase inhibition assay and melanin formation test in mouse melanocytes (Melan-a). In addition, histopathological analysis was performed to determine the number of microfolds formed on the epithelial surface, mean epithelial thickness, mean number of inflammatory cells infiltrating the dermis, and collagen fiber-occupied regions within the dermis. Hyaluronan synthesis was significantly increased by PCS in HaCaT cells, while procollagenase and elastase activities were decreased in HDF-N cells. A significant decrease in UVA-induced MMP-1 activity was also observed in PCS-treated HDF-N cells, compared with UVA-exposed cells. PCS effectively reduced melanin production and mushroom tyrosinase activity in Melan-a cells. Moreover, UVB-induced histopathological dermal sclerosis and inflammatory signs were significantly attenuated in PCS-administered mice compared with UVB-exposed mice. Conclusions: Our results suggest that PCS prevents signs of aging, including those related to photoaging. These effects are associated with enhanced hyaluronan synthesis, as well as suppressed elastase, collagenase, MMP-1, and tyrosinase activities and melanin production. UVB-induced photoaging, such as histopathological dermal sclerosis and inflammatory signs, were effectively reduced on the addition of PCS. These results also suggest that skin aging can be prevented and reduced by the antioxidant effects of PCS.
    Journal of cosmetic science 08/2015; 37(8):e118. DOI:10.1016/j.clinthera.2015.05.337
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    ABSTRACT: Antioxidant properties of mango (Mangifera indica) leaves were evaluated. Hydroalcoholic leaf extracts that were lyophilized were subsequently fermented with either Lactobacillus casei or effective microorganisms (EM) such as probiotic bacteria and/or other anaerobic organisms. Antioxidant properties were measured as a function of the mango leaf extract concentration in the fermentation broth. Tests for radical scavenging using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical showed higher antioxidant activity for Lactobacillus- and EM-fermented mango leaf extracts than for the synthetic antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene. Antioxidant activity generally increased with increasing fermented extract concentration as did the fermented extracts' polyphenol and flavonoid contents. Fermented extracts reduced reactive oxygen species generation by lipopolysaccharide in RAW 264.7 cells when measured via fluorescence of dichlorodihydrofluorescein acetate treated cells using flow cytometry. RAW 264.7 cells also showed a concentration-dependent cytotoxic effect of the fermented extracts using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthialol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay. Inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity as well as nitrite scavenging by the fermented extracts increased as fermented extract concentrations increased. Tyrosinase activity was assayed with 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine as substrate. Nitrite scavenging was assessed via measurement of inhibition of chromophore production from nitrite-naphthylamine-sulfanilic acid mixtures. The antioxidant properties of fermented mango leaf extracts suggest the fermented extracts may be useful in developing health food and fermentation-based beauty products.
    Journal of cosmetic science 07/2015; 66(1):1-13.
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    ABSTRACT: Infant' and adult' scalp hair fibers were disassembled to various cellular components and blocks by chemical and enzymatic treatments, followed by random scission with rapidly rotating cutters. The hair fibers were also fractured by the use of a vise. The optical microscopic inspection of these specimens led to the discovery of many previously unknown structures in the hair shaft. In particular, a cuticular cell (Cu) was found to take a trowel-like shape consisting of a part with a blade-like shape (CuB) and a part with a handle-like shape (CuH), where CuB overlapped one another and fused partially to build the honeycomb-like structure on a large cuticular thin plate (CuP). Whereas CuH was closely similar to the cortical cell in dimensions and richness of macrofibrils (Mf). It was considered that human hair is stabilized structurally and physicochemically by the presence of the honeycomb-like structure, the CuP and the Mf.
    Journal of cosmetic science 07/2015; 66(1):15-29.

  • Journal of cosmetic science 07/2015; 66(1):65.
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    ABSTRACT: To predict "wave efficacy" as evaluated by hairdressers, an extensional permanent waving treatment was performed on human hair fibers using various wave lotions manufactured in Japan. Glass columns devised for the purpose were equipped with a tensile tester in order to increase the measurement accuracy. Notably, the observed set agreed with the theoretical set. In addition, the data for the extensional set exhibited good correlation with the bending set and the wave efficacy assessed in a beauty parlor, and hair damage was estimated by the characteristic change in the 20% index. The following facts were experimentally determined. First, the Young's modulus of the hair fibers after extensional permanent waving treatment continually decreased with an increase in the reduction of the fibers and then abruptly decreased at 80% reduction. Second, the reduction of hair treated with the ammonium salt of thioglycolic acid followed pseudo first-order kinetics only during the initial stage of the reaction, independent of the pH level. Third, the 20% index of the individual virgin hairs remained constant in water at 30°C and also correlated with the Young's modulus of the hair after extensional permanent waving treatment.
    Journal of cosmetic science 07/2015; 66(1):31-56.
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    ABSTRACT: Sirtuins are post-translational modifiers that affect transcriptional signaling, metabolism, and DNA repair. Although originally identified as gene silencers capable of extending cell lifespan, the involvement of sirtuins in many different areas of cell biology has now become widespread. Our approach has been to study the temporal variation and also the effect of environmental stressors, such as ultraviolet B (UVB) and ozone, on sirtuin expression in human epidermal keratinocytes. In this report, we measured the variation in expression of several sirtuins over time and also show how a low dose of UVB can affect this pattern of expression. Moreover, we correlated these changes to variations in hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and ATP levels. Our data show significant variations in normal sirtuin expression, which may indicate a generalized response by sirtuins to cell cycle kinetics. These results also demonstrate that sirtuins as a family of molecules are sensitive to UVB-induced disruption and may suggest a new paradigm for determining environmental stress on aging and provide direction for the development of new cosmetic products.
    Journal of cosmetic science 07/2015; 66(1):57-63.
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    ABSTRACT: Melanin is the pigment responsible for the color of the eyes, hair, and skin in humans. Tyrosinase is well known to be the key enzyme in melanin biosynthesis. JKTM-12 is composed of the flowers, roots, seeds, and receptacles of Nelumbo nucifera (lotus). In this study, JKTM-12 was investigated for its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. Moreover, two main bioactive compounds (hyperoside and astragalin) were found from the receptacles of N. nucifera, which are used as the main material of JKTM-12. JKTM-12 was shown to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells. Hyperoside and astragalin, which are the main bioactive compounds of JKTM-12, not only inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis but also tyrosinase-related protein 1 and tyrosinase-related protein 2 mRNA expression without cytotoxicity at various experiment doses (0.1, 1, and 10 μg/ml). These results suggest that JKTM-12 has the potential for skin whitening with hyperoside and astragalin as the main bioactive compounds.
    Journal of cosmetic science 11/2014; 65(6):377-88.
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    ABSTRACT: With regard to the increase of human life expectancy, interest for topical treatments aimed to counteract skin aging is still growing. Hence, research for bioactive compounds able to stimulate skin fibroblast activity is an attractive topic. Having previously described the effects of a new methanol yeast extract on growth and metabolic activity of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, we studied its effects on 3T3 fibroblasts to evaluate its potential antiaging property. This investigation demonstrates that this extract increases proliferation as well as migration of 3T3 cells and decreases their entrance in senescence and apoptosis phases. Altogether, these results open new perspectives for the formulation of innovative antiaging topical treatments.
    Journal of cosmetic science 11/2014; 65(6):389-401.
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    ABSTRACT: Multifunctional products are becoming more prevalent in the color cosmetics market. We evaluated four foundation products for in vivo moisturizing benefits using the mini-regression test method. We found that statistically significant long-lasting moisturization was provided by the foundations tested, but only if hygroscopic moisturizing ingredients were present.
    Journal of cosmetic science 11/2014; 65(6):359-64.