Journal of cosmetic science (J COSMET SCI )

Publisher: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (U.S.)

Description

  • Impact factor
    0.28
    Show impact factor history
     
    Impact factor
  • 5-year impact
    0.35
  • Cited half-life
    7.70
  • Immediacy index
    0.00
  • Eigenfactor
    0.00
  • Article influence
    0.07
  • Website
    Journal of Cosmetic Science website
  • Other titles
    Journal of cosmetic science
  • ISSN
    1525-7886
  • OCLC
    39348374
  • Material type
    Periodical
  • Document type
    Journal / Magazine / Newspaper

Publications in this journal

  • [Show abstract] [Hide abstract]
    ABSTRACT: Oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions play an important key role in transporting bioactive compounds into a range of cosmeceutical products to the skin. Small droplet sizes have an inherent stability against creaming, sedimentation, flocculation, and coalescence. O/W emulsions varying in manufacturing process were prepared. The preparation and characterization of O/W nanoemulsions with average diameters of as low as 62.99 nm from palm oil esters were carried out. This was achieved using rotor-stator homogenizer and ultrasonic cavitation. Ultrasonic cell was utilized for the emulsification of palm oil esters and water in the presence of mixed surfactants, Tween 80 and Span 80 emulsions with a mean droplet size of 62.99 nm and zeta potential value at -37.8 mV. Results were comparable with emulsions prepared with rotor-stator homogenizer operated at 6000 rpm for 5 min. The stability of the emulsions was evaluated through rheology measurement properties. This included non-Newtonian viscosity, elastic modulus G', and loss modulus G″. A highly stable emulsion was prepared using ultrasonic cavitation comprising a very small particle size with higher zeta potential value and G' > G″ demonstrating gel-like behavior.
    Journal of cosmetic science 12/2012; 63(5):333-44.
  • Journal of cosmetic science 07/2012; 63(4):277-278.
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    ABSTRACT: Skin tanning, either by exposure to natural sunlight or through use of UV sunbeds, has become a popular practice in the US, where it is estimated that approximately 1 million times per day someone in the US uses UV radiation for skin tanning, equating to 30 million Americans (circa 10% of the US population) who use a tanning bed. As well as exposing the host to periods of UV radiation, such practices also expose commensal skin bacteria, including Staphylococcus aureus, to such UV radiation. Previous work has indicated that environmental stresses on bacteria may lead to an upregulation of stress responses, in an attempt for the organism to combat the applied stress and remain viable. UV light may act as an environmental stress on bacteria, and so it was the aim of this study to examine the effect of UVc light on the antibiotic susceptibility of commensal skin bacteria, to determine if UV radiation would increase the antibiotic resistance of such skin flora and thus lead to a potential skin flora with increased antibiotic resistance. Previously, it has been shown that UVc light has a greater mutational effect on bacteria compared to lower-energy UV forms, including UVa and UVb light. Therefore, we decided to employ UVc light in our study to amplify the potential for mutational events occurring in skin staphylococci organisms (n=8) including methicillin-sensitive Staphylococcus aureus (n=2), methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (n=4), and coagulase-negative staphylococci (Staphylococcus haemolyticus) (n=2) were exposed to varying degrees of sublethal radiation via UVc light, and their minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) susceptibility was determined by broth dilution assay against three classes of commonly used antibiotics, namely β-lactams (penicillin), macrolides (erythromycin), and fluoroquinolones (ciprofloxacin). There was no significant difference between antibiotic susceptibility before UVc exposure and until maximum sublethal stress, prior to cell death due to fatal UVc exposure with the cells. These results indicate that UV environmental stress/exposure does not upregulate antibiotic resistance, and therefore these data indicate that UVc radiation does not lead to a more antibiotic-resistant population in the staphylococci organisms post-exposure.
    Journal of cosmetic science 03/2012; 63(2):133-7.
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    ABSTRACT: Surface wetting is one of the key properties of human hair used to indicate the extent of chemical/mechanical damage and the outcome of conditioning treatment. Characterization of hair wetting property is a challenging task due to the non-homogeneous nature of hair fibers and the requirement for sensitive equipment. Motivated by these considerations, we developed a new methodology, termed a differential wetting characterization (DWC), which would allow rapid and reliable characterization of the wetting property of hair fibers. This method is based on observation of a number of droplets suspended on a pair of parallel fibers stretched in a horizontal plane. The wetting behavior of the fibers can be deduced from the shape assumed by the droplets. When the wetting properties of the two hair fibers are identical, the droplets suspended between the fibers assume a symmetric configuration. In contrast, on the fibers with dissimilar wetting characteristics, the droplets will assume a skewed configuration towards a more hydrophilic fiber. This makes it possible to differentiate the hydrophobicities of the tested fibers. In this paper it is demonstrated that the proposed DWC method is capable of differentiating the changes in wetting property of hair surfaces in response to either chemical or physical treatment. Results of the paper indicate that the DWC method is applicable for broad wetting differentiation of various fibers.
    Journal of cosmetic science 01/2012; 63(1):33-41.
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    ABSTRACT: Vitamin B5 and its derivatives are well known in personal care applications and are often used in wound healing and soothing compositions. However, little is known about the biochemical pathways involved. A better knowledge of these pathways would help to understand some of the mechanisms of action and suggest further applications. We have investigated the transformation of D-panthenyl triacetate (PTA) into D-panthenol (PAN) and its skin diffusion on human volunteers by Raman spectroscopy. Additionally, we have utilized human skin biopsies and quantitative RT-PCR to demonstrate the effect of PTA compared to PAN on 27 metabolic markers when introduced at 2% in a cosmetic emulsion. Then we conducted a double-blind clinical study to measure the effect of PTA compared to PAN on wound healing, measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL), when incorporated at 3% in a cosmetic emulsion. Results show de-acetylation of PTA into PAN and an increased activity of PTA compared to PNA over time in the skin. Metabolic marker analysis demonstrates stimulation of energetic pathways such as glycolysis and the citric acid cycle, but also of synthesis pathways such as isoprenoids and lipid synthesis, by PTA and PAN. Finally, the clinical study demonstrates a statistically significant effect by PTA on wound healing after 72 hours when compared to a saline treatment. Statistical significance was not achieved by PAN or a placebo treatment. Due to the differences between PTA and PAN action, different applications in personal care products can be suggested. Moreover, PTA seems more effective than PAN for a long-lasting wound healing action.
    Journal of cosmetic science 01/2012; 63(1):1-13.
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    ABSTRACT: Sixteen UV filters were simultaneously analyzed using the high-performance liquid chromatographic method. They were drometrizole (USAN Drometrizole), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (USAN Enzacamene), menthyl anthranilate (USAN Menthyl anthranilate), benzophenone-3 (USAN Oxybenzone), benzophenone-8 (USAN Dioxybenzone), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (USAN Avobenzone), ethylhexyl triazone (USAN Octyl triazone), octocrylene (USAN Octocrylene), ethylhexyl dimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid (USAN Padimate O), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (USAN Octinoxate), p-aminobenzoic acid (USAN Aminobenzoic acid), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (USAN Ensulizole), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (USAN Amiloxate), and recent UV filters such as diethylhexyl butamidotriazone (USAN Iscotrizinol), methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (USAN Bisoctrizole), and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (USAN Ecamsule). Separation of the UV filters was carried out in a C(18) column with a gradient of methanol-phosphate buffer, and the UV detection was at 300, 320, or 360 nm without any interference. The limits of detection were between 0.08 and 1.94 μg/ml, and the limits of quantitation were between 0.24 and 5.89 μg/ml. The extracting solvent for the UV filters was methanol, except for ethylhexyl triazone and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, which were prepared with tetrahydrofuran. The recoveries from spiked samples were between 94.90% and 116.54%, depending on the matrixes used. The developed method was applied to 23 sunscreens obtained from local markets, and the results were acceptable to their own criteria and to maximum authorized concentrations. Consequently, these results would provide a simple extracting method and a simultaneous determination for various UV filters, which can improve the quality control process as well as the environmental monitoring of sunscreens.
    Journal of cosmetic science 01/2012; 63(2):103-17.
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    ABSTRACT: Ferulic acid (F.A) receives significant interest in the beauty industry with regard to its skin-whitening and anti-oxidant properties. However, its use in cosmetics is limited due to pH- and temperature-related instabilities. In this study, we investigated the stability of F.A in eight different prototype formulae. The results confirmed that in our conditions the stability of F.A is pH- and temperature-related. Additionally, the nature of the solvent dipropylene glycol (DPPG) showed a capacity to stabilize F.A. A series of experiments was further planned for studying the mechanism of degradation of F.A. In a prototype of a cosmetic medium, F.A degrades first through a decarboxylation step, leading to 4-hydroxy-3-methoxystyrene (PVG). Further, F.A and PVG are both involved in an additional reaction, resulting in the trans-conjugation dimer of PVG. The consequences of these results in formulating F.A are discussed.
    Journal of cosmetic science 09/2011; 62(5):483-503.
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    ABSTRACT: Tyrosinase (TYR) from mushrooms has been inappropriately used in the screening assay for hypopigmenting agents even though its biochemical properties are different from those of human TYR. Cell-free extracts of human epidermal melanocyes (HEMs) could be another choice for the assay, but HEMs grow too slowly to get a sufficient amount of cell-free extracts. In the present study, human embryonic kidney (HEK) 293 cells were transfected with a human TYR construct to establish a cell line that grows rapidly and expresses human TYR constitutively. Cell-free extracts of the established cell line, HEK293-TYR, were tentatively used in the screening assays for 11 phenylpropanoids that have chemical structures similar to that of L-tyrosine, the substrate of TYR. Of the 11 compounds, the strongest inhibition of TYR activity was shown by p-coumaric acid (IC50, 3 μM), followed by 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)propionic acid (50 μM) and 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid (70 μM). The results indicate that p-coumaric acid has an optimal chemical structure for the inhibition of TYR. The effects of these phenylpropanoids on melanin synthesis in HEMs correlated well with their effects on TYR activity in vitro. This study demonstrated that HEK293-TYR cells can be a good source of the human TYR enzymes needed in the screening assay of anti-melanogenic agents.
    Journal of cosmetic science 09/2011; 62(5):515-23.
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    ABSTRACT: Facial packs or masks are popular beauty treatments that are thought to improve skin quality. We formulated a yoghurt pack using natural ingredients (F-YOP), with consideration of skin affinity, safety, health, and beauty. Then, we performed an in vitro assessment of biological activity and in vivo assessments of moisture, TEWL, melanin content, and elasticity. Facial areas treated with F-YOP showed increased moisture compared to control regions: 89±6.26% (forehead), 140.72±10.19% (cheek), and 123.29±6.67% (chin). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values were decreased in the treated areas compared to control: 101.38±6.95% (forehead), 50.37±5.93% (cheek), and l57.81±10.88% (chin). Elasticity was decreased in the control region, whereas the treatment region did not change. The initial elasticity was maintained in the cheek. F-YOP exhibited activity on DPPH radical scavenging, SOD-like activity, and lipoxygenase activity. F-YOP treatment successfully improved the moisture, brightness, and elasticity of treated skin.
    Journal of cosmetic science 09/2011; 62(5):505-14.
  • Journal of cosmetic science 07/2011; 62(4):438-439..
  • Journal of cosmetic science 07/2011; 62(4):438-439.
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    ABSTRACT: The hydrophobic character of the surface of human hair is particularly attributed to the lipid components of the epicuticle and to a layer of covalently bound fatty acids. This outer f-layer mainly consists of 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), which is covalently bound to the underlying protein matrix, forming the epicuticle as composite surface structure. Daily weathering and chemical treatments, specifically oxidative bleaching, decrease the hydrophobicity of the outer hair surface drastically.Multiple daily stress, simulated by an automatic test device including shampooing, blow drying and sun light exposure, changed the lipid composition of hair significantly. A marked loss of 18-MEA was observed. Decreasing contact angles are the direct consequence. A new method to determine the "pseudo-static" contact angle on hair was developed. The results correlate with the corresponding data obtained by dynamic contact angle measurements according to Wilhelmy. Besides that, the resorption time of water droplets by the hair surface provides additional information about the intactness of the outer f-layer.Specific proteolipids, which are lipid-modified keratins, are able to reconstruct the surface layer of damaged hair by creating renewed surface hydrophobicity and extending the water resorption time by the hair surface.
    Journal of cosmetic science 06/2011; 62(2):237-49.
  • Journal of cosmetic science 06/2011; 62(3):346-347..
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    ABSTRACT: In this paper, we present a new technique to determine the orientation of hair fiber, a key parameter in the evaluation of visual appearance of hair. Using polarization imaging and image analysis tools, we are able to measure the orientation of hair fiber for each pixel in the image. A theoretical analysis of the optical set-up is presented. Experimental data on a single fiber, hair tress, and complete head are given. Application to shampoo and conditioner is also demonstrated.
    Journal of cosmetic science 01/2011; 62(2):85-100.